do you have a link Clive, or the item description? I searched ebay for that item number but it gave me nothing.

Although your initial endorsement of "this will melt all over the windscreen" might make me think twice about actually buying one

Maybe put some of that gunk into (what were) your front tyres to stop the leaks? was v successful on mine. Did you only have tracking checked, or also toe?

Morat - have the front tyres always been on the same corners? The wear pattern is a bit odd - it's almost as if the whole axle is tilting to the left - or you're driving around an oval racing circuit in the same direction. I wd swap the tires as Richard says (front to left, but also left to right), but I'd be trying to figure out what was causing the issue before you do the same to the rear tyres.

Dave3d - when you were testing the webcam in windows, are you positive you then closed it before trying jitsu. Else jitsu can't get control of the camera, even if it has the right permission. (Happened to me with MS Teams the other day)

So for anyone following: for my AMR4247 (mine is on the Defender, but it is also the 100A on the earlier Gems V8s), I was sent a Transpo IX123 after following a trail of ref numbers, but that just has a standard set-point. I guess the challenge is that these manufacturers are used to copying the spec of components, but finding the right ref for an upgrade set-point can be a challenge. Sort of what Tanis was warning about further up

However, a Mobiletron Vr-F153a fits and has a 14.7v set point - lovely...

fine for me

yes - calibration blocks will most likely sort you out. - at least for Std and Motorway - which is where it will spend most of its life.

But do you have photos of the gaskets themselves - my issue was glaringly obvious when I inspected the gaskets

Fuel pressure seems like a good bet, i agree

I'm curious.to.see how.long the.finish.lasts. I think the idea of a lightstone s/w is flawed ( I have one too, also re-done). But it just builds up grime again after 6months.
I was wondering about changing the colour to navy, but not sure if that wd look really c### ie if the blue dye does not obliterate the lightstone

Nice collection Harv

I'm in - any eve 8pm shd be fine. Although when lock down breaks I may head for the hills at the weekends. Half term next week, so easier than usual

Pulled the abs liners on the rear arches today, to take a look. Bit crispy :-) dirt seems to stick where the trim buttons are located.

My voltage slides below 12.0 sometimes and then I give it a good top-up, but I have a V8 which is probably more forgiving than a diesel.

What was the voltage of the battery before you started recharging? As Richard says, could be the charger (if you have another you can try ?), else it does rather sound like the battery is on its last legs. The trouble with the high cap batteries is that they don't get properly recharged if the car is not used enough. Maybe leave less time between trickle charges - a few days of discharge can be fatal. Have you measured your quiescent current draw - BeCM off and awake?

Agreed re RR.net. I'm not sure if it's worse to have users who can't use search asking the same qns once a week, or ones who drag up long dead threads.

While we're on the subject, what is most likely to shear a bolt impact wrench, or breaker bar? In my experience its the breaker bar, which provides major torque without loosening the threads. On the other hand, I've had exhaust studs go with just my (comparatively weedy) impact wrench.
I guess in reality, success is a combo of both, after some plusgas

Mine's colour coded

I use an 18V deWalt DCF880 230Nm impact wrench to remove my wheel nuts. Always does the job, but then again it's either me who put them on with a torque wrench, or the local garage who did. It doesn't move the M14/ M16 suspension bolts though, I'd have to dust off the air gun for that

Looks like a pig of a job - autoglass had two fitters on mine, and broke the cheese wire a few times too. The old screen broke up at the edges - fair enough it was cracked in the first place, but may be hard to remove one intact. I think PU seam sealant too - even if you do manage to remove it intact that stuff would be a pig to clean off I think, in order to be able to fit again, although I dare say there's a magic solvent you can use.