Changing the heights, Leo? I've got all heights set up like this, with no ill effects. What happened?
Agree with all the above - you can just use 30mm dowel, or a suitable broom handle.
I would just input all the settings below first, and see if it improves things (after you take a photo of all the current height settings). Then use the calibration blocks at std height only. You will then have adjustments on each corner which you can extrapolate for the other heights if you can't be bothered to cut another 3 sets of blocks and then fit them all - then again, you may have nothing better to do at the moment.
FrL FrR RrL RrR
High 148 148 129 129
Standard 123 123 109 109
Motorway 107 107 97 97
Access 80 80 75 75
Use the force Leo.... those 100/105 ones are ok. I agree they "look" short, but surprisingly, they do the job. You could do worse than just input these values (set by set, the ECU will not take them all at once), I suggest yoy take photos of all the old settings first. It is a matter of dispute, but these seem to be default values based on one/ two peaople who experienced them showing up magically in EAS settings), and are more or less mid way between the technical min/ max for each setting (verifiable to EAS system docs). Once you have a standard start point then you can try the 100/ 105 at standard and see what your bit count variances are at each corner. It's likely you'll need similar adjustments (pro-rata) at the other heights - but if you have blocks for all and time on your hands then obv. you can calibrate all heights
FrL FrR RrL RrR
High 148 148 129 129
Standard 123 123 109 109
Motorway 107 107 97 97
Access 80 80 75 75
Are X8R still shipping? If not, I have a kit I was planning to use to refurb a back-up EAS block and compressor...
Good idea Dave
When I got mine it had some sort of slime in the foam under the car. I put old towels under the carpet to get the worst out, and then graduated to blue centre-pull paper (screwfix etc) which wicks the rest out.
Miss : o(
On the actual HU?
All 3 of these have a bar code below them, on one sticker:
Job no 0140839
Serial no 0017787
Product code PU9836A
Mine says it is a remanufactured unit, but it does use the pin which appears on the security card which (surprisingly) looks original. PM me and I'll tell you if you got it right : o)
yep, looks beautiful. Cd be worth powder-coating rather than spraying the black parts though?
PS Headers look a bit rusty : o)
Not sure how random all these codes were.. My EKA, for example, is v similar to the bog std US generic code. I've PMd you the code for the old HU I have in my garage, cd be worth a shot. Dealer shd be able to give it though, if the HU is original? Lastly, my radio code has been written by someone on the inside of the case in marker pen.... maybe yours too?
This is turning into a very entertaining thread.
There was also the time 20+ years ago in my Series 3 when I was towing my dad's double axle trailer along with cattle crush... Started snaking about 50 mph...of course you shouldn't slow down so I didn't. Started getting worse and with a ditch to the left of the road, and a ditch to the right, I decided enough was enough and it might be better to stop. I ended up 90 degrees across the road, and the LR did a big heave to one side, before settling back on its' springs. Drove away from that, rear 1/4 of the LR took a beating, but was a DIY fix. Luckily it was fairly straight road so oncoming cars had seen what was happening and not piled into me. My Dad's comment was - didn't I mention that the over-run brakes aren't working?
The difference between you and me is that you're thinking Hawaii/ Oz :-)
It has a regulator too, 15w wd be fine if it was achievable
Now's your perfect time to complete Dave. I got a Maplin's one for my Dad a few years ago, but it didn't seem terribly sophisticated.
I was thinking this one, for example:
The biggest cock-ups will have been committed by those have not contributed to this thread... Come on, 'fess up
Anyone got good recommendations for a solar panel to sit in the car? Don't worry about wiring I'll deal with that. My car uses about 25ma quiescent, and 600ma when the becm is awake. All I want is to trickle it when stood still, I have a smart charger as and when I want to charge it properly, and a volt meter on the cigarette socket. I suppose 15W will give good coverage,
and diode protection to stop overnight discharge. Not sure if I need to care about a charge regulator, but they're not so expensive. SunPower monocrystalline seems to come up as good tech....blah blah, but does anyone have any specific ones to recommend?
Ah - that makes even more sense, thanks Marty. i castrated the crotch vent on this particular excursion behind the dash - but the flap must have fallen out prior to surgery. That vent is worse than useless in the English climate, and sealing up the bottom of the side vent (duct tape being used for what it was designed for) is one less point of leakage.
Morat, I figured it would be quicker to apply tape than go in and edit the photo :o)
Nice to see people's cars, although I'm not sure that description stretches to Leo's shell :-) I can see why you'd give up and go and buy a completely different one lol. You're a brave man, Leo
I ended up having to remove a large star washer to dismantle it, but trust me, you don't want to have to do that - it's under load, and a pig to get back on. I'd just mask the black bit
In a bid to stop this thread turning into an exclusive gallery of a certain Monte Carlo blue RR, here are my two:
