But do you have photos of the gaskets themselves - my issue was glaringly obvious when I inspected the gaskets

Fuel pressure seems like a good bet, i agree

I'm curious.to.see how.long the.finish.lasts. I think the idea of a lightstone s/w is flawed ( I have one too, also re-done). But it just builds up grime again after 6months.
I was wondering about changing the colour to navy, but not sure if that wd look really c### ie if the blue dye does not obliterate the lightstone

Nice collection Harv

I'm in - any eve 8pm shd be fine. Although when lock down breaks I may head for the hills at the weekends. Half term next week, so easier than usual

Pulled the abs liners on the rear arches today, to take a look. Bit crispy :-) dirt seems to stick where the trim buttons are located.

My voltage slides below 12.0 sometimes and then I give it a good top-up, but I have a V8 which is probably more forgiving than a diesel.

What was the voltage of the battery before you started recharging? As Richard says, could be the charger (if you have another you can try ?), else it does rather sound like the battery is on its last legs. The trouble with the high cap batteries is that they don't get properly recharged if the car is not used enough. Maybe leave less time between trickle charges - a few days of discharge can be fatal. Have you measured your quiescent current draw - BeCM off and awake?

Agreed re RR.net. I'm not sure if it's worse to have users who can't use search asking the same qns once a week, or ones who drag up long dead threads.

While we're on the subject, what is most likely to shear a bolt impact wrench, or breaker bar? In my experience its the breaker bar, which provides major torque without loosening the threads. On the other hand, I've had exhaust studs go with just my (comparatively weedy) impact wrench.
I guess in reality, success is a combo of both, after some plusgas

Mine's colour coded

I use an 18V deWalt DCF880 230Nm impact wrench to remove my wheel nuts. Always does the job, but then again it's either me who put them on with a torque wrench, or the local garage who did. It doesn't move the M14/ M16 suspension bolts though, I'd have to dust off the air gun for that

Looks like a pig of a job - autoglass had two fitters on mine, and broke the cheese wire a few times too. The old screen broke up at the edges - fair enough it was cracked in the first place, but may be hard to remove one intact. I think PU seam sealant too - even if you do manage to remove it intact that stuff would be a pig to clean off I think, in order to be able to fit again, although I dare say there's a magic solvent you can use.

drill a hole for drainage? (at the bottom..)

I cant remember if you have nano, but if you do then I think you should be able to turn on the ignition and then take the voltage of the TPS as you press the accelerator ie even with the engine stopped.

Not to me

Pic has appeared elsewhere, but here are my twins - 50th Defender and 50th RR. I've had the Defender 15+ years, and it gives me very little trouble although I'll need to get a new rear x member at some point - or when I retire maybe I'll just rebuild it on a new chassis. The Defender has a 4L GEMS and '22 auto box - so there's a lot of synergy with the RR. They're both 1998, and both Atlantis Blue - which is a pearlescent blue-green, and looks awesome in the sun (if they're clean)

I know that my centre interior light is/ was very green inside... if yours is similar, could there be a short across tracks? Also, there are some pretty crappy swiiches in there for the reading lights, one of those cd have gone haywire. Fit a 2nd hand unit and see ?

The T pieces are pretty sturdy - the wall is 5-6mm thick, PA66 GF30... I know you are a man who appreciates detail

Clive re oil... what car do you have? A v8, or diesel? a V8 shdnt have engine oil in that area... if the leak's been there a while then ATF does look v black - it took me ages to clean out all the muck. the dust and oil will have completely blocked the fin structure on the coolers (self-sealing rad lol), and the ram air will have dragged ATF back into the radiator too.