It was me who suggested to just remove one side of the A pillar (on rr.net) - though from the above it sounds like some folks manage without doing either. I'd still suggest you need one side off to be able to slide the windscreeen trim out, and minimise the wear on the plastic clips.

Finding the white plastic clips is like finding rocking horse s*** - don't lose or break them - no pressure

Can we see a photo of the engine/ engine bay? Is this the original engine? Either someone went to a lot of trouble to dismantle the original wiring, or perhaps they replaced the engine and bodged the bare minimum of wiring to make it work. Is the original starter circuit/ wiring intact?

"Starter Motor Relay This relay is also ignition key controlled and is activated with the key in the ignition III position only. Releasing the key after cranking cuts supply to the relay and switches off the starter motor"
"Starting System When the Ignition Switch (X274) is switched to position III, the BeCM (Z238) grounds the starter solenoid relay inside the Engine Compartment Fuse Box (P125) which then energizes, applying battery voltage to the Starter Solenoid (K136) and Starter (M134)"

So maybe it was just that this circuit ceased to work (relay/ fuse box tracks burnt out/ wires melted etc.) and the PO gave up trying to work out why.
Do you have a copy of the Electronic Troubleshooting Manual? check Master Fuse 2/ Relay 16/ wire continuity (page 2 section B1)

Though that doesn't account for the flashing immob. message... so there's probably something else done too

You'll be fine - the screws are hidden under the rubber seal, you won't break anything. Most guides will tell you to leave them dangling once you've slid out the bottom trim - don't- just replace one screw, and yes, one side should be fine, certainly for the initial removal. Nylon mesh is the way to go, and RTV around all the screws at the bottom of the screen & the pollen filters, as you seal her up.

Are you able to talk to the PO and ask what it was that he was trying to achieve, it may be quicker than trying to guess? If you see the "engine immobilised" message, even when the engine is on then god knows how he managed that. Is this the original engine
SRS fault is re the air bag (have you now reconnected it?) I wonder if that's why is was disconnected in the first place?
35mph etc is that the EAS is not happy

Needs someone smarter than me

If you lie on your back under the rear of the car you will either be able to see a black (or more likely v rusty ) metal mud shield which is masking off the inside of the brake disc. Do they have holes in ? (bad sign) have any of the flaky corners bent/ now rubbing on the brake disc. You could remove the wheel for a better view, but I'd lie under it first and have a look. Mine were completely u/s - they're not cheap to replace, even if they must be v cheap to produce.

My rear diff needed doing, but was more of a whine at speed, and a clunk when changing direction in a 3 point turn

Back plates is a good one. They get thin as they rust, and cd easily rub on the brake disc. Bearings Ok?

Hi Symes - welcome to the club. Impressive stable - mine is more linear - Defender and RR, Sounds like you enjoy a good V8 though

Sloth - I see a toaster will be part of your build...in lieu of glow plugs?

no10chris wrote:

Am I the only one whose completely out of there depth with all this 🤣😂🤣
Nope - way over my head

lol, yes, that's the one ! Looks like you're going to have fun

Hi Dan welcome - are you the guy with all the trim in the back of his P38?

Jump the relevant relays and you can see the electric fans working

do you have a link Clive, or the item description? I searched ebay for that item number but it gave me nothing.

Although your initial endorsement of "this will melt all over the windscreen" might make me think twice about actually buying one

Maybe put some of that gunk into (what were) your front tyres to stop the leaks? was v successful on mine. Did you only have tracking checked, or also toe?

Morat - have the front tyres always been on the same corners? The wear pattern is a bit odd - it's almost as if the whole axle is tilting to the left - or you're driving around an oval racing circuit in the same direction. I wd swap the tires as Richard says (front to left, but also left to right), but I'd be trying to figure out what was causing the issue before you do the same to the rear tyres.

Dave3d - when you were testing the webcam in windows, are you positive you then closed it before trying jitsu. Else jitsu can't get control of the camera, even if it has the right permission. (Happened to me with MS Teams the other day)

So for anyone following: for my AMR4247 (mine is on the Defender, but it is also the 100A on the earlier Gems V8s), I was sent a Transpo IX123 after following a trail of ref numbers, but that just has a standard set-point. I guess the challenge is that these manufacturers are used to copying the spec of components, but finding the right ref for an upgrade set-point can be a challenge. Sort of what Tanis was warning about further up

However, a Mobiletron Vr-F153a fits and has a 14.7v set point - lovely...

fine for me

yes - calibration blocks will most likely sort you out. - at least for Std and Motorway - which is where it will spend most of its life.