I got mine from RTG on ebay about 9 months ago - seem fine. Bearing in mind that any 2nd hand ones you buy could come from absolutely anywhere, and be of any age. I'm not even sure that the originals came from Wabco anyway, I think Bosch, perhaps
My injector loom also crispy, but holding on - the less I touch it the better.
between the boards I would also add something dry to wick the moisture out - the wife's best fluffy towels should do the trick. Since you've brutalised the foam already, maybe it can go into a clothes drier in sections?
I must be bored, but my alternator kicks out anything from 13.7 to 14.0 (scraping 14.1 sometimes). I have an S4 Bosch battery (which says that the min voltage shd be 12.4V to avoid damage). It's hard to figure out if the Bosch (Varta) battery contains calcium - multiple searches are completely silent - so I guess that means not, although Battery Megastore says it is - Bosch themselves don't seem to say
I'm obviously not getting to drive it much these days, but battery voltage falls below 12.4V fairly often - that said, I never have problems cranking. If the voltage drops then I chuck it on a smart charger every few weeks, and now I have a solar panel on the parcel shelf (jury's still out on that). Guessing that my set point is about 14.0V currently (which I think was on spec for the year/model) then should I look for a VR with a higher set point ? Does anyone have a positive ID on one?
Glad it got fixed. I sealed mine up last time I was closing it - pretty sure I used RTV. In case it's of use, while investigating the 16 way connector in the LH panel that insists on going green, i traced a weep of water to an internal seam that is 8-12 inches above it - you need to be on your back looking up. I just about manged to get some RTV on it. I couldn't for the life of me find the outside of that seam, it's either stuck behind the wing panel, or just possibly it's accessible if the pollen filters and their housings are stripped out. I'll look next time I'm in there (may it be many years hence)
So, charger fitted. I used the connector in the left rear 1/4 that should connect with the aux power socket. I had to repin it as the +ve connection had packed up.
Thus far...does around 60ma in shade, up to 1A in the direct sun, so I don't think I'll ever be over-charging the battery. The tinting in the rear tailgate glass seems to block about 1/4 of the power.
I think I'd focus on getting power to the Obd connector, then deploy nanocom - switch/ power testing becomes a whole lot easier at that point
Mine too (Apr 98 production), sorry
Loving that George B.. We could definitely do with having a "Like" button on here
Changing the heights, Leo? I've got all heights set up like this, with no ill effects. What happened?
Agree with all the above - you can just use 30mm dowel, or a suitable broom handle.
I would just input all the settings below first, and see if it improves things (after you take a photo of all the current height settings). Then use the calibration blocks at std height only. You will then have adjustments on each corner which you can extrapolate for the other heights if you can't be bothered to cut another 3 sets of blocks and then fit them all - then again, you may have nothing better to do at the moment.
FrL FrR RrL RrR
High 148 148 129 129
Standard 123 123 109 109
Motorway 107 107 97 97
Access 80 80 75 75
Use the force Leo.... those 100/105 ones are ok. I agree they "look" short, but surprisingly, they do the job. You could do worse than just input these values (set by set, the ECU will not take them all at once), I suggest yoy take photos of all the old settings first. It is a matter of dispute, but these seem to be default values based on one/ two peaople who experienced them showing up magically in EAS settings), and are more or less mid way between the technical min/ max for each setting (verifiable to EAS system docs). Once you have a standard start point then you can try the 100/ 105 at standard and see what your bit count variances are at each corner. It's likely you'll need similar adjustments (pro-rata) at the other heights - but if you have blocks for all and time on your hands then obv. you can calibrate all heights
FrL FrR RrL RrR
High 148 148 129 129
Standard 123 123 109 109
Motorway 107 107 97 97
Access 80 80 75 75
Are X8R still shipping? If not, I have a kit I was planning to use to refurb a back-up EAS block and compressor...
Good idea Dave
When I got mine it had some sort of slime in the foam under the car. I put old towels under the carpet to get the worst out, and then graduated to blue centre-pull paper (screwfix etc) which wicks the rest out.
Miss : o(
On the actual HU?
All 3 of these have a bar code below them, on one sticker:
Job no 0140839
Serial no 0017787
Product code PU9836A
Mine says it is a remanufactured unit, but it does use the pin which appears on the security card which (surprisingly) looks original. PM me and I'll tell you if you got it right : o)
yep, looks beautiful. Cd be worth powder-coating rather than spraying the black parts though?
PS Headers look a bit rusty : o)
Not sure how random all these codes were.. My EKA, for example, is v similar to the bog std US generic code. I've PMd you the code for the old HU I have in my garage, cd be worth a shot. Dealer shd be able to give it though, if the HU is original? Lastly, my radio code has been written by someone on the inside of the case in marker pen.... maybe yours too?
This is turning into a very entertaining thread.
There was also the time 20+ years ago in my Series 3 when I was towing my dad's double axle trailer along with cattle crush... Started snaking about 50 mph...of course you shouldn't slow down so I didn't. Started getting worse and with a ditch to the left of the road, and a ditch to the right, I decided enough was enough and it might be better to stop. I ended up 90 degrees across the road, and the LR did a big heave to one side, before settling back on its' springs. Drove away from that, rear 1/4 of the LR took a beating, but was a DIY fix. Luckily it was fairly straight road so oncoming cars had seen what was happening and not piled into me. My Dad's comment was - didn't I mention that the over-run brakes aren't working?