SamH wrote:

tanis8472 wrote:

Intermediate reduction drive.

That's the thing, might take a proper look over it today - stupid to leave it sitting there.

BrianH wrote:

Of course, if its also full of radweld that won't help either

I don't like the stuff. I'm sure it's useful somehow, but it isn't likely to exactly improve the coolant flow and if it's leaking badly enough to need it then it's not liable to work anyway. The GEMS gets a regular replacement of standard blue 50/50 - think I'd rather find and source a leak than mask it tbh. I do need to replace all the hoses which are sitting in a box waiting. Current project is looking at the water getting in (well, showing up) at low level in the boot. Got the rear carpet and insulation out at the moment - it's surprising how much can be accessed like that.

thatll more than likely be the boot door seal shrinking with age.
i had to cut mine at the bottom to get it to seal properly and also gently bend the lip out slightly.

there is a tsb about it somewhere.

Range Rover CDS. ref: L8403bu
Issue: 1
Date: 18.03.98
AFFECTED RANGE:
All vehicles
PROBLEM:
WATER INGRESS AT TAILGATE - APERTURE SEAL
Water collecting in spare wheel stowage area.
CAUSE:
Either of the following:
· Tailgate aperture flange irregularities
· Tailgate aperture seal irregularities
· Lower tailgate hinge bolt leakage
· Upper tailgate alignment
ACTION:

1. Remove tailgate aperture seal and check flange for irregularities.
   Carefully
   straighten any flange area causing concern and evenly bend entire length of
   flange outwards towards tailgate by approximately 5 mm.

1. Obtain new tailgate seal ALR8547. Referring to the illustration on page 2,
   measure 520 mm outwards from the lower seal section centre line and mark
   seal at these points, measure another 5 mm on from these points and mark
   seal again. With a sharp knife carefully cut through the bubble section of
   seal
   at marked points so that a 'C' shaped section is removed to form drain slots,
   (see inset on illustration).
   NOTE: If modification is carried out correctly the drain slots will be hidden
   under the tread plate.

2. Fit seal to vehicle confirming that the seal is the correct way up with
   seal joint
   and drain slots at bottom of aperture.
   NOTE: To assist seal fitment and to ensure tightness of seal to flange, the
   seal should first be heated to approximately 40 0 C. This can be achieved by
   placing in an oven or a container of warm water.

3. Referring to the Workshop Manual,
   Section - Body Repairs - Tailgate
   Lower, remove lower tailgate hinge
   bolts one at a time and apply
   silicon sealant around the threads
   before re-fitting.

4. Close tailgates and apply water via
   a hose around aperture to confirm
   leaks have been eliminated. Take
   care not to direct hose into
   extraction vents during this test.

In the unlikely event that leaks are still apparent proceed with the
following:

1. Check upper tailgate profile to 'E' posts. If gaps are uneven, re-align
   tailgate
   with lower tailgate in open position. To correct the gaps, hinge adjustment
   may be required, refer to Workshop Manual, Body - Repairs - Tailgate Upper.
2. Re-test with water hose to confirm cure.
   PARTS INFORMATION:
   ALR 8547 - Tailgate aperture seal
   WARRANTY CLAIMS:
   Use Complaint Code: 9J4N
   Use one or more of the following SROs:
   76.31.89/34 Dress aperture flange, modify and
   fit new seal and apply sealant to
   hinge bolts
   Time allowance: 0.50 Hrs
   76.28.31 Upper tailgate adjust Time allowance: 1.30 Hrs

well today i found out for sure its working.
had a drive out for a while and pipes are hot.
big difference in temperatures on in and out :)

The haynes manual for the freelander actually shows photo of it the correct way round, which was how I discovered the problem.

My dad had no end of problems with it because of that.

Intermediate reduction drive.

The updated thermostat system removes the thermostat on the head and puts a octopus thermostat on the bottom left near radiator.

Mine worked fine once I put the pipes the right way round.

One of these

https://www.gsfcarparts.com/176lr0040?auto_apply_coupon=SHOP60&gclid=CjwKCAjwgbLzBRBsEiwAXVIygKc998G3YgO206VT5aC7SbsybAsykYgfbrMs4eUlM_-gknIen3s_uhoCPksQAvD_BwE

Exactly the same as petrol freelanders.

Took me bloody ages to finally work it out.
A land rover 'specialist' fitted the updated system to the early freelander.

Rock steady at a needles width to the right of the centre mark.

New thermostat, water pump and some pipes recently.

dave3d wrote:

I was Dave4x4 on Landyzone. Don't go on there now. I got fed up with the abuse.

Same here.
One person in particular was the reason I left.

Yeah, they can feel that way.
I've now got a remapped ecu and it makes a huge difference. Similar power and torque to the 4.0 v8.

It pulls away a lot better now.

Acceleration in torque lockup from 50 to 60 is respectable too :)

I had a ronbox but didn't like the way the power came in at about 2k rpm. It was disconnected most of the time. Sold it on eBay.

Howdy

Congratulations.

Mine did too on 28th Feb

It's what I thought too.
Thank you

Don't know, but I've used other blue bag stuff without problem. Depends on what, I guess.
I've just fitted a new engine oil cooler. It was ok.

Time slows down the nearer you get!

Gilbertd wrote:

Bloody trucks in convoy at 40mph on the A16.......

Good old Lincolnshire lol

Gilbertd wrote:

No there isn't, not on the petrol anyway (just got home.....).

What took you so long lol

I didn't think so. Just needed confirming.
Just wondering as the pipes are not very hot.

Probably because it cold weather

Here's a question for the good folk of rr.pub

Does anyone know if there is a thermostat in the oil system, specifically under the oil filter housing where the cooler pipes go.

Thx

ETA,

diesel m51 engine

Could always put a yellow relay in place of the tall eas relay. System won't wake up with that in. Won't connect to diagnostics though.

Gilbertd wrote:

Yes, Stilton (where the cheese originated from), just off the A1(M). That would be great if I can borrow it, I could come and pick it up if you aren't going to be heading in this direction.

More than welcome. I'm in Boston.
I would drop it off but I don't tend to be that way very often.

You're near Peterborough aren't you?

I've got one you're welcome to try. It was working when removed last year as I changed my spare one to a 14.7v set point rectifier and fitted that.