Yeah, I know about the lrcat one.
It's not very user friendly with the parts list.

I've got microcat on an old 32bit so laptop along with easunlock and other diagnostics:)

We've just lost another resource.

http://lrparts.ru/ have removed basically everything previous to about 2007 and no English links either.

:(

Hello mate :)

Gilbertd wrote:

Sounds like you need to fix your water leak. Admittedly I know it's been pretty wet, to the point where I had an inch of water in the passenger footwell of my works 15 plate Renault Kangoo van, but cars shouldn't leak. Then either get a new cable or one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-OBD2-16-Pin-Male-Wire-Sockets-Connector-Plug-OBDII-Car-Adapter-J1962-OEM/311895498803. Might be worth replacing the socket too as that will be pretty well corroded.

I've already ordered a new one with cable attached. I'll just solder them and heat wrap the cable :)

It is indeed.
Just finding a weekend thats dry.
Its never been a problem until last weekend when I left that lead on it :(

Its leaking at the top of the plenum above the pollen filter. Wipers need to come off which will be fun as I dont think theyve been off since new.

Interesting times ahead :)

Mine passed last friday with 3 advisories.

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Nearside Front transmission cooler pipes slightly leaking
Central Rear exhaust box slightly leaking
Offside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))

Well chuffed

Do not under any circumstances leave any type of obd lead or reader attached to the connector when you are finished with it.

Mine has filled with water and electrolysis has removed 2 pins from my eas lead and damaged the connector :(

Bahhh

Gilbertd wrote:

No, separate radiator, engine oil cooler and gearbox cooler on a P38, although I believe the diesel may have a combined radiator/cooler for the engine oil, I know the Classic did.

Nope, seperate items. Engine oil cooler sits below intercooler and behind aircon condenser.

Morat wrote:

8 foot diff! Small???

;)
Lol

mad-as wrote:

land cruisers are notorious for blowing front diffs , just ask the owner to put it in low range and pop the clutch in reverse and that will do the diff in (collapsible spaces). with the spacers removed they are better but it is not a recommendation to pull in reverse approach with caution as sometimes there is no option just be careful its an FYI comment.

Only the 100 series apparently :)

None of that is greenlaning though :)

Green landing is supposed to be gentle. I don't see why recovery points would be needed unless they are going where they shouldn't.

I've never needs them.

There's not exactly many choices for p38.
Steering guard with shackles at front or aftermarket bumper.

Rear, I'd look at finding a shackle for the swan neck fittings. Something like jate rings. There are shit quality ones out there though.
They need to be close fitting though.

Do you know how to fit them?

STOP LIGHT SWITCH - FROM 99MY
Service repair no - 70.35.42

1. Remove closing panel from fascia. See
   CHASSIS AND BODY, Repair.
2. Remove screw and remove heater outlet duct.
3. Remove 4 scrivets and remove access panel
   from fascia.
4. Release and remove heater air duct for access
   to stop light switch.

Refit

1. Ensure new stop light switch plunger is fully
   extended for initial setting.
2. Fit stop light switch to pedal bracket and connect
   multiplug.
3. Fit heater air duct.
4. Fit access panel and secure with scrivets.
5. Fit heater outlet duct and secure with screw.
6. Fit closing panel to fascia. See CHASSIS AND
   BODY, Repair.

STOP LIGHT SWITCH - UP TO 99MY
Service repair no - 70.35.42
Remove

1. Remove driver side fascia closing panel. See
   CHASSIS AND BODY, Repair.
2. Remove 3 scrivet fasteners securing lower
   closing panel. Release panel for access to
   blower motor ducting.
3. Release ducting from blower motor housing and
   heater. Remove blower motor ducting.
4. Release multiplug from stop light switch.
5. Remove stop light switch from pedal bracket.

Refit

1. Engage switch fully into pedal bracket location.
2. Connect multiplug.
   NOTE: The stop light switch is factory set
   and requires no adjustment in service.
3. Position blower ducting, fit to heater and blower
   motor housing locations.
4. Position lower closing panel and secure with
   scrivet fasteners.
5. Fit driver side fascia closing panel. See
   CHASSIS AND BODY, Repair.

This weekend I shall mostly be changing my coolant hoses that are at the back of the engine.

The hose from the cylinder head that feeds the heater has gone soft due to the diesel leak on number 6 injector.

Then on to clear some codes for a colleague and reset their icv after Halfords disconnected battery and didn't do a relearn on it .

Ooh, you are a one lol.

:)

2 on diesel, I think only one on petrol

One is closed while other is open. They switch when pedal is pressed.

Yeah, I think most close half day Saturday.
Took em back last night. No problem at all.
The guy in local branch is good

I think I'll just use eBay for pollen filters. Normally find something at reasonable cost. I refuse to pay £15 or thereabouts for 1 filter.

The answer to my question is, yes you can take off individual pipes. Just unclip the plastic brackets on the pipes. They will probably break, but can hold together with a cable tie.

SamH wrote:

tanis8472 wrote:

I even found a guy on eBay selling the same ones

Yup, there's others too (was me on eBay) - It's one of those parts that slightly seems too good to be true from a major shop, but they were priced right. A couple of people round here have ordered them and from description received the same wrong ones. Gave up on selling them, was good advice to go for a refund in store - cheers for that.

Hah, that's funny lol.
Taking mine back tomorrow. Saturday i was busy as you know.