Gilbert: Thanks! Of course, that would be the easiest solution.
The 85 did have a brass tank with the petrol motor, however when we dropped in the Tdi 300, we used it's tank as well.
Thus, I will want a tank cap for an Disco.
That would be a good option as well, and a bit less dosh! Could I trust the wife to heed the advice?.....Experience says a loud alarm and flashing light is what it takes to get the "other drivers" attention........
With the level switch, I will have a warning that the temp will rise SOON if I do not address the issue.
However, I look at this as an investment in my cooling system, and a way to eliminate what has been for me at least a very vexing problem. I just have very little faith in the currently available plastic tanks with all of the cheap Chinese knock offs out there.......
Mad-as.......Please do not misunderstand, I am as mean a bugger as they come!
I will however happily pinch a penny till it screams and in turn, buy something which I find to be good value!......Hang the cost!
A hand made, bespoke, "Custom" part like this? I could not do one myself, and I know it would be a bunch more if I commissioned a one off.
Cheers!
Marshall8hp wrote:
The $10 alternative. It might be worth considering.
That would indeed be an option, and I shall get hold of one to put in the Black plastic header tank on the 85 Classic
the next time I am in Oz..........The black one I have on the 300Tdi are a MUCH tougher plastic than the white ones.
The major problem from my standpoint is that I have had 4 tank failures on 3 vehicles in the last 15 years.......
I count myself lucky that each time I caught it before anything overheated.
I cannot see spending about the same amount to get an Range Rover branded plastic tank, although
it would probably be fine, I know this one will not leak, or suddenly burst on me. (Do it once, and do it right!)
Honestly, I am a bit surprised that there was never an option for the switch from the factory. I believe I read somewhere that there is provision of some sort in the Becm for low coolant, but they must have run out of I/O spaces on the CPU and dropped the switch option.
Even tho' I will be a bit poorer in the $$$ department, I shall be a happy camper when I get this installed!
Mad-as: For $300 bucks, I get the tank, and a low level float switch, and about $75 dollars shipping charge.
I will post the results.......
:
Well, I was finally able to order my Christmas present to self this evening.......
Allysport got their welder back from sick leave and caught up with back orders.
To replace the nice new German plastic tank that proceeded to split at a seam within 30 days, (Got my 89 bucks back from Parts Geek)
I have dropped $299 Yankee dollars into the UK economy (Glad to do my bit to help out!) to procure a new header tank with float switch!
Lot of $$ for a header tank, but you look at the number of times that an overheat due to loss of coolant
has triggered a series of expensive repairs, or in a few cases I know of, the final trip on a flatbed to the
knackers yard for an otherwise perfect P-38......I recon it is a cheap investment to be able to eliminate one more possible worry.
Now to figure out which section of the cluster to use to install my indicator.....Thoughts?
I also have a sonalert which will go under the dash and should wake you up quickly if the coolant level drops.
Cheers!
You get 1 free post of your choice!
And, I will buy anyone who shows up here a beer!
(I would anyway.....)
............................Or, if not, we could be at 28,000 by morning...........
David,
Thanks for the terrific photos!
Both of my 02s have decided the Left side needs to start leaking!
I have sealed the pollen filters and still they drip.
The only common denominator is both have no foam screen on the scuttle and this is the first time both have
been exposed to Douglas fir needles! The buggers slip in everywhere, and i am sure after seeing the photos that they
have managed to get into the drains under the pollen filter housings where they have joined the willow
leaves from their last home to make a really effective seal! Time to get some foam......
I now have a tent shelter as a garage for the Borrego, so I can take things apart without worrying about the copious rain we have here in the winter. Borrego will be first, then Bolt.
Thank you again for the detailed post!
Cheers,
Tom
Ouch!
Condolences and glad you had a "Local source" for spare parts! Tazzie being on a different planet as it
sometimes seems.......
(I tried to get a raw water pump for the boat shipped there and had a devil of a time)
As for what was done to the Rangie today?
It was pure abuse!
I used Bolt to shift a 20 ft half loaded shipping container about 10 meters across our block.
It was muddy and wet and the skids i was using kept on digging into the goo!
Got it done, and gave the beast a quick and well deserved water blast......
I am seriously impressed whenever I use the Rangie as a tractor!!!! The ABS system got a serious work out
and I doubt that I could have succeeded without it.
All in all a good day!
Well! Thanks again for creating this terrific site!!! (3 Cheers!)
As we seem to be "Padding the numbers" a bit......Count me in for one more frivolous post!
Seriously though. Will this be a negotiated 30k or a "No Deal" 30k????
If it is a No deal...errr...deal.....Then just what will the EU do?.
If we do not make 30k it will obviously be due to "Poster fraud" and we will demand a recount!
Carry on Gents! and let me just say here that all the help and support from this forum is very much appreciated
over here where we do not even know what AA Yellow is!
Looking forward to a new year as this one has been a bit of a disappointment.
Cheers,
Tom
PS: Hey! If you need a few extra posts, how about counting the Spam posts.......Or are you already doing that??
Absorption fridges are simply a heating element, so no particular surge, and no interference.
They do draw more current than an equivalent compressor fridge. Around 12 amps if memory serves.
So, Dave, your method would be much preferred as it leaves the stock wiring stock.
I have noticed with both my Classic, and the P-38 that RR used the barest minimum wire size possible....
Probably to cut costs. This basically means you cannot just hook up accessories to any lead you want to as
for the most part, they are already maxed out.
Compressor fridges have a controller that soft starts the compressor motor, so no real surge there.
They DO however throw out a fair amount of RF hash on the DC lines (as well as in the airwaves)
I have ferrite cores on the twisted pair shielded power lines on the 2 fridges I have onboard the boat here.
It is certainly possible it was interference from the compressor controller glitching the Becm.
If you think it was due to power draw, then simply connect a heavy lead (Fused) to the same wire, but at the bottom of the fusebox rather than at the Becm end. This would eliminate any voltage drop in the cable to the Becm.
Hmmmmmm....... Keep us posted as to if it sells?
I do not do FB or any other social media for that matter.
It would greatly interest me to know if and for how much it sells for.
My "Borrego Yellow" Borrego is in perfect shape as well. All working and 125k miles.
I would not be adverse to selling it and for anything above 20k? I would be a happy chappy!
It does seem, as has been noted in this forum several times, that good, clean, stock working examples are indeed claiming
some decent prices as they get harder to locate.
Time will tell!
Gilbert, I have never seen or heard of a RED Borrego?? Out of the 100 made, (One for each main dealer in NA)
how many were not Borrego yellow? Not Borrego yellow? Not a Borrego QED (Big claims need big proofs)
Oh, For the record, I have parked next to an stock "AA Yellow" Classic, and they are subtly different.
Also, It is not as much of a mystery "over here" just what "AA" stands for. We have had the "AAA" here since 1902
(For those on the other side of the ditch, AAA means American Automobile Association)
Cheers!
I am going to get the one with the low level switch and no sight glass.
Less to go wrong, and I will install a nice loud alarm and light for low coolant warning.
Good for peace of mind knowing when the coolant has suddenly made a break for freedom.......From wherever!
I have just about made the decision to drop some $$ and go for one of these:
https://www.allisport.com/shop/performance-products/tanks-and-reservoirs/header-tanks/range-rover-p38-v8-discovery-2-v8-late-td5-header-tank/
They are doing a re design to allow the use of the stock cap, so still a few weeks out for ordering.
This looks like the gold standard.....is it?
I do really like the idea of a low water alarm for obvious reasons.
The pinhole in the brand new plastic tank really spooked me. If it was the wife driving, I would be looking at a serious overheat instead of just a new tank! Spendy, but cheap insurance.
That would be the little aspirator fan which draws air in to measure it's temperature.
It is either going out, or has a lot of gunge on it's blades.
Pretty reliable part actually as you do not hear many complaints about them.
Well, I discovered the source of the leak on Bolt. Not the HG after all........It seems the brand new German made plastic header tank has a pinhole leak underneath at a seam. Found a suspicious puddle in a dry parking lot.......
Always look where you were parked in case 'yer Rangie is marking it's territory!
So, PartsGeek, who sold me the tank seems to have no real warranty policy!
I am about done with plastic anyway.
If the tank from a Bmw will fit, and this tank crosses to the Bmw part, will it fit?
Decent price, and it looks to have all the spigots where needed?
Or, just get this, and a sensor?
Mind, the one with the leak is a MAHLE BEHR as well......
Opinions, Gents?
Cheers!
Dang!!
Started with Bolt, and pulled the LH Kick panel off. Plugs are clean and shiny, with Silicone grease intact, so no corrosion.
Pulled the head, and checked all of those plugs.
Plugged back in, and stone dead........
Switched to Borrego.
When I got in and turned the key, the radio came on....for about 5 seconds, then it said "Telephone" and refused to respond any more.
I pulled the sub, and DSP out and checked all connectors. All perfect.
Plug for phone is clean and dry as well.
Swapped the DSP since I could, and no change.
Then I took the head units and swapped them over....Now Bolt's stereo says "Telephone" and
The Borrego has a stone dead head unit. Problem is 'inna heads.
So, I have concluded that these are "Fair weather" head units, and that freezing fog is something they are protesting about. Tomorrow, I will take the heat gun to both and see if it is a wet or cold (or both) issue.
I am thinking cold solder joints which in the cold are contracting just that bit extra? Add a bit of salty fog....WCPGW?
So.....who is servicing the "High Line" head units these days (Both have good displays)
(Anyone got an DSP head unit or 2 they don't need?)
Well, the good news is it is not DSP related. I still have 2 working DSP amps and 2 spares......
After having zero issues with the head units, I now have one on each car!
Now that it is cold and wet here (Getting down to freezing at night) I have found that the Borrego's stereo now comes up with "Telephone"
and refuses to do anything.
On Bolt, the stereo had a few hours where you could not turn it off, change stations, or volume. You could shift it to CD to shut it up.
Next day, dead as a doornail......... No display, no response to anything. 3 days later, it is back and after about 15 min of being able to control it, it is now on, and stuck.................On a horrible station!
Cannot change anything, at all. Sat nav still speaks loud and clear when appropriate.
Full disclosure: LH pollen filter cover has been giving me fits as i have tried several different types of closed cell
rubber to get a new seal on it. No luck yet. Thus, there has been water trickling down onto the LH side. I have not removed the kick panel yet.
On the Borrego, I am thinking back by the amp? Where does the "Telephone" signal come from? I am imagining a loose plug that is getting damp?
I have to agree that trying to keep it at the seam is hopeless......At least for Bolt.
If I fill to seam with it cold, within a few driving cycles, it is back down to 25mm below the seam.
It then stays there. So, if it was indeed a leak, it should continue to leak out, but this does not happen.
The Borrego likes to sit at 15mm below the seam, and is also stable there.
They must just be blowing the "excess" coolant out when they get nice and hot.
I recently bought a nice new tank for Bolt so I can see the coolant very well. Borrego is not too bad with the stock tank.
Just wish these things had a coolant level switch! (I know, other threads cover this)
I will have to admit.......I have had a bottle of "K Seal" circulating in Bolt since 23k miles and more than a year ago........
As it is now at 168k and I am starting to see the coolant doing it's "Drop about 25mm and stabilize".......
I suspect it is a minor head gasket leak and due to this stupid quarantine, I cannot get my workshop tools here from Hawaii!
Just by mileage, it seems it ~should~ be due to have a new HG fitted. No tools, no shop, and really cannot trust a garage.
Just keeping an eye on coolant for now. No sign of water in oil, oil in water, or pressurization. Running sweet!
The K seal worked well for me. I chose it as it seemed to have the least amount of "smoke and carbon nanofiber mirrors". (no snake oil) Just Sodium Silicate.
Basically, just try it! I mean.....What could possibly go wrong!? ;)
Cheers!
It is interesting that the light sensor has been installed, yet seems non functional?
Any sign of it in RAVE?
Looks like a plug in module from the photo, thus easy to delete.
I would say it is supposed to auto dim the instrument cluster lights at night?
It is well placed to measure ambient light falling on the cluster.
I have always wondered why the message center display is not dimmable as the back lights are?
Possibly this is something that can be turned on in Becm settings??? Probably need a Test Book tho'