tanis8472 wrote:
Gilbertd wrote:
Or at least there shouldn't be, even though Bolt admitted that he walked around to the front of the car and looked at the RH side as looking at it......
I did laugh to myself lol
Yea, well, I laughed at myself pretty good at the time too!
I was just VERY happy it was something as simple as confusing oneself, not a broken wire somewhere!
Had to confess my screw up to Gilbert, knowing he would be merciful ;)........(Big round thing indeed!)
It has occurred to me that as i have calibrated the EAS on both of these beasts this AM, I now have 2 P-38s that.......
EVERY SINGLE LITTLE DETAILED BIT WORKS!!!!!!
No issues of any type with any system on either one! Fully functioning factory stock DSP stereos as well!
I am Sooooo HAPPY, yet being at the pinnacle of P-38 ownership, where do we go from here??????
I mean, What could possibly go wrong?
Cheers!
Tom
Gilbertd wrote:
He says he has, but there's two ways to achieve it, either with the harness that plugs into the BeCM or with two wire jumpers on the plug to the EAS ECU. Difference is the harness costs around £50 and two bits of wire cost a lot less than that but they both do the same job. I can't see anyone fitting both but it's always possible I suppose.
They used the "Cut the Blue/white Blue/pink wires at the Becm, Earth one and run the other to B+ to put it in manual" method.
Thanks Marshall, that was actually job #1 soldering the Blue/white and Blue/Pink wires back together.
So..........
I could not face tearing out the centre console of Bolt yet again, so I trundled over to the local breakers yard where they have had an 98 for about 18 months now.....Not much good left at this point.
Got both the height switch module and just for fun, the inhibit switch both for 10 bucks. Got Lucky!!
Got back, cleaned the grime off the adjuster and plugged it in.......Instant gratification!
As you have observed, Gilbert, there is a bunch going on inside that module. It does a self test of all 4 leds on Ign on, then settles down to the correct spot. It also appears that the Binnacle display may be driven by it as well since in testing, whenever the top LED is on, no matter what else is on, the binnacle symbol comes up as well.
Now, to go out and put all wires and trim back, after giving the sill channels a good clean of course!
The compressor is still doing odd short cycles, but that is gonna be tomorrows job!
In all, I found the delay relay failed, the EAS controller is dodgy as it shows inhibit at all times, There was a serious leak at the front most tube collet on the valve body, and, of course, someone got clever with the switch module....destroying it!
All up, it is ~almost~ understandable (If totally inexcusable) that the PO put on springs.......
Total out of pocket to put it back? $227.00 and about 8 hours total labor. The worst part was removing the stupid springs without a proper tool!
Anyone wanna buy a set of slightly used OME springs? Cheep!
Thanks for the help!
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks, I have been tearing into things and have one point of contention......You said:
"Wiring from the ECU to the switch and display goes via the connector behind the LH kick panel. In your case this would be the one on the drivers side, left as sitting in the car, the side with that big round thing you use to make it go round corners...."
If this is the case, then I would expect that unplugging both of the LH connectors would extinguish the lights........
I was able to get the switch lights to go out by unplugging the larger of the 2 white plugs on the Right side kick panel...(That's the side that all of your cars have the turny thing installed erroneously on......)
In any case, When I came back to it after posting (and lunch) I found that the only light on was the top one, and the dash indicator for Extended mode was on......Nothing would change this condition, and all worked normally any way.
Unplugged the ECU to clean and grease contacts, wiggled wires under the dash and when i switched on again, the upper 3 lights are on, and not the bottom most......
I will swap out the switch with my known good one and report back.......
This is an interesting one!!
At least I know all the kick panel connectors are clean!
Cheers!
Tom
The adventure continues.......
This morning, all was as yesterday, then I switched out the ECU from Bolt (Known Working) and the problem remained.
All 4 lights on, The dash showing High position, compressor cycling, and Nano showing switch as "OPEN" but Compressor as "ON"
When I swapped back in the other ECU, the lights all went out. The dash indicator saying High Mode went out as well......Compressor still whacked out....
Now the dash indicator does not illuminate even when Extended height is selected.
The switches still work as normal and it will go from Access to Low Profile, Standard and Extended just fine.
Inhibit switch works too.
I got into the LEFT side kick panel (The side with the big turny thing on it) and found the connectors to be pretty nice.
I gave them a good scrub with Meths and applied a bit of Silicone grease for future protection.
No change. Odd observation though........If I push the inhibit switch the Led turns on as normal, however unplugging both the plugs in the LH kick does nor extinguish the light on the switch??
I have inspected the looms in the door sill, and opened up the plug on the ECU....All look good.
It would seem the wiring to the dash switch possibly has a different route?
I will drop the panel under the wheel and have a poke around there.......
Somewhere there is a reason the PO castrated it....just gotta find it!
Does the driver pack play into this at all? I have 2 complete spare EAS under bonnet boxes......
Oh, I found the delay relay was faulty.......
Cheers!
Thanks for the timely information!
OK, As painful as I find this, I will have to disclose just what the "Wiring issue" was.........There was NO sensor on the LEFT side........
The Nano was telling me the issue was on the Left side, I saw that, and walked around the front to the RIGHT side as faced from the front....
Several times!!
Oops, Total and complete brain fart!!!
I had removed both sensors some time ago to attempt to help out Kulture with his EAS........I knew the RH one was missing, so had re installed it........Did not bother to turn my head to look at the glaring blank space on the other side......Sighhhhhhhh..........................
So, one standard issue "Dope Slap" for myself!
Now, I have the EAS working very well with a couple of odd issues.
Here goes:
1 All 4 of the lights on the dash switch illuminate at all times (EAS dash switch has been pried open and epoxied back shut by a PO)
2 The Compressor is cycling frequently, like every 15-30 seconds. There are no leaks.
3 Per Nano: Running or not, Compressor always shows as "ON" Pressure switch shows as "OPEN" Thermal Switch "Normal"
4 "Park / Handbrake" indicates "ON" no matter what position it is in. Dash indicator for Handbrake works fine.
5 "Extended height" symbol on dash is illuminated at all times.
I swapped ECUs and the only difference is that the Inhibit switch started working normally.
I may try ECU from Bolt as well as Dash switch to eliminate those if no one has an insight??
Took it for an on /off road test, and it is back to having that Schweet "glide of a ride!" Also, self adjusts based upon speed as normal, just cannot tell from the switch indicators....
Cheers,
Tom
Aloha,
Well, today's job is putting all of the EAS bits back on the Borrego!
So far so good, I have determined the method used to place it in Manual mode, and reversed that damage.
It looks like they also unplugged the switches on the dash.....
Gotta tear into the centre console for that one. I do have it raising and lowering nicely and no leaks found so far.
NOW, I have been trying to figure out the initial reason they were convinced to castrate it in the first place......
Looks like (Per Nano) the RH front sensor reads 24 no matter its position. no deviation at all. So, a wiring issue.
Nano throws a fault for out of Range sensor. Pot tests good on the bench.
Question is: just how many potentially corroded plugs do those 3 wires go through on the way to the controller???
I cannot access Rave at this moment......If no feedback soon, I will attack the kick panel plugs on both sides.
I also cannot seem to log on to the Pub on my Android tablet in the shop. Seems to have something to do with Catptha?
Cheers,
Tom
Aloha, I have made the last 2 posts here in "Opening Time" as they were not electrical, or oily in nature......
Please advise if they should be elsewhere?
Yesterdays fun was replacing the right side blend motor. having read Rave, and the tips and tricks from the old .net site,
I went with the drop the glovebox, cut the duct, drill a hole for hidden screw method, and was able to get it changed.
I spliced the wires at the HVAC plug, for ease of access.
After installation, and taping the duct, I tested it for function, and found that during the process of shifting the ducts, I
dislodged the pipe that runs across to the RH side vent! No way to get it together from beneath!
SO, I thought to simply remove the Passenger side Air bag.....Looks easy with the 4 torx screws and a plug.........
Just gotta pop off the trim above the glove box.....Yea! Right!! Using Jos Guese's instructions from .net, I tried to gently but firmly get it to pop loose. It would not budge!.
In doing this however I noticed that the whole mess is a bit flexible, in that a padded airbag case is nestled in a padded dash.
Thus, the tip of the day for anyone trying to get the bloody airbag out is to use a thin, flat pry bar (Stanley Wonder Bar) and gently lever the bottom edge of the airbag up over the top of the trim strip. It actually pops out easily.
Make note of the clear lexan spacers on the lower front of the airbag to be sure they go back where they belong. Replacement is reverse
with the top edge going in first, then just gently prise the trim back to allow the 2 tabs on the airbag to drop in to the slot.
With airbag out, it was easy to fix the duct work although, I never worked out where the odd 100 mm wide U shaped convoluted spring clip came from???? It just fell out as soon as I started messing round with the ducts....
You also gain great access to the blend motors from above!
Note: Be careful when putting the air bag back that the glove box release cable is correctly routed, and not pinched under the forward left attachment point of the bracket.....If you do, you will need to drop the glove box, remove the airbag again, and shift the cable......Just saying.....
Easy 2 hour job........next time! 4 hours for the first go. I would have also done O rings at this time if I had thought to get some beforehand.
Cheers!
Aloha!
Thanks for all the great feedback!
I am going back for the EAS parts for the Borrego, and will see if I can find a mobile glass man near the breakers to remove it. I have watched several done, and it is indeed a learned skill, so based upon where I am on the curve.....
That would be: on the bottom looking straight up......
I will pay someone to attempt removal.
No worries on the "Silicone".....I have spent lot's of time in New Zealand and Oz, where any kind of ooozy sticky stuff inna tube is "Silicone"....I was confused at first as well.
Having been on and around boats all of my adult life, I know of some truly nasty PU adhesives......We use one in particular that must be heated to like 120deg (F) before application, but it goes
off like a shot! Gotta be sure the parts are where you really want them.
Looks like an new non heated windscreen is about 350 bucks and the heated version is like $800- $1200
Hmmmmm....Thinking about it more, I find the gold wires annoying at some sun angles, so may just get a non heated version fitted.
It's not like I live in the frozen North.
Shoot! I will use the Govt Covid-19 hand out $$ I got for it! Perfect!!
Ahhhh The pleasures of a Hoon on the beach in Tazzie! Great POV video.
We did the same drive at a Champ Meet 10 years ago. Great fun, and the Champ was superb riding!
We are looking forward to next year which will bring another wave of Champs to Tazzie!
We have done Taz every 5th year and this will be our 5th visit as a group.
I will be in the 85 Classic next time, as I have passed my Aussie Champ to a keen bloke in Vic.
We will have to do same beach run in it, for the sake of comparison!
Cheers!
Aloha Gents,
Took a spin to the breakers today ("Essential" industry, thus open!) There is a 2001 beautiful dark green, EAS still holding air! and
a new headliner. I found a 4 inch blow out in the main Rad hose, so I think we know why it is at the knackers yard. Sad!
The owner obviously took good care of it other than the hoses......
I will probably return to grab all of the EAS stuff to put back under the Borrego.
Among the bits I scored another DSP amp (2 good spares now!) and all of the temp sensors for the AC
3 working blend motors.........Gotta get rid of the "chequebook!" on the HVAC But that's not what I need to know.
My windscreen has a slowly creeping crack that was just under the rear view mirror mount when I bought Bolt, and has now crept
down about 6 inches.....Also a stone chip on the passengers side, about 50% of the wires
do not heat.... I think it will be time to replace it soon.
The 2001 at the breakers has an pristine windscreen that can be had for $40 bucks.....I just need to remove it intact.
I have seen wire saws in use in the past, but have never tried them out.
I am assuming it is simply glued in with some really good snot?
Any clips or fastenings I should have in hand before starting?
Any words of wisdom? advice? If I break it trying to remove it, I will not be charged......What could possibly go wrong?
I will probably enlist the help of a proper glass fitter to re install it......Maybe......
Cheers!
Tom
25 watts is a serious "Trickle" charger.....
3-5 watts from a "Self regulating" (Read: 15voc) panel is usually adequate
I have had good luck with something like this:
Sticks on the inside of the windscreen, and has plugs and leads for hooking to an always hot terminal.
Yep! I suspected he would take the bait and be lured onto the dark side!
I am sure Richard / Gilbert will be a benevolent overlord.........
"Time for the fun to start......" ........I distinctly detect an "Bwahhhh Ha Ha Ha Ha......." after that statement!
Oh, for the record, (most) Yanks do indeed understand Irony......In this case though, it is the Canuks Eh'?!
Now, let's have a contest to see who can get themselves banned for life by their freshly minted Mod! FUN!!!
Once we have been banned, perhaps we too can be a mod and get the BIG BUCKS!.......
Ahoy!
Thank you so much for that!
I was just contemplating what will happen when we head off shore for a few months and leave the Rangie under it's cover. With battery disconnected, I am not worried about the 5%/mo self discharge, as it is a big group 31 battery.
Will go and perform this procedure on the Borrego right now to try it out, as it is currently parked in the shed
awaiting a new owner. (Anyone need a nice Borrego?)
No fear of anything going amiss (!?) as it has good micros, an unlocked Becm, and working fob (Sadly, only 1)
On another note, if, as in Oz, the EKA is set to off, and code shows on nano as 0000, do you simply do the
"Prelude to EKA" with the turns from lock to unlock when it asks for it?....Just wondering.....
Cheers!
Tom
Aloha Dave,
I have used 2 sets of these on both my 02s:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CC3R8I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The hole patterns match and they sound pretty good as well. A surprise for the price.
No holes on the back for the Sub amp to mount to (if you have the Premium system), but easy to work around that issue.
Cheers,
Tom
To me it sounds just like something is rubbing on something.
That would explain why only under load as things are shifting around at that time due to the torque.
Possibly even a loose fastener which is allowing the two joined parts to rub just that bit.
Try the hose pipe stethoscope for sure, but include mounts and both ends of anything that moves with the engine and attaches to the frame.
As it is a low intensity high frequency sound, it would be a small part vibrating and rubbing.
It could even be in the bay but not on the engine itself, just an sympathetic harmonic vibration.
Put the same 75 w 140 full synthetic in the front diff. Interesting stuff it is crystal clear, and flows nicely when cold.
Checked all fluids, 28 psi in the fronts, 38 in the rears, ready for the trip up North at zero dark thirty tomorrow morning.....
So, I know this has been knocked around a bunch, but for my 16 in Yokohama's what do youse guys run for air pressure?
I have been running 38 and 38.............
I am in the midst of doing diffs, T-case, and engine services.
I noticed ~after, of course~ that I was sold 75-140 full syn gear oil, and manual calls for 75-90........
155k miles on the beastie, will there be any issue with the wider viscosity range gear oil?
Did a search, and found no answers......(Did not even bother trying on the dark side!)
Cheers!
Tom
As part of prep for next weeks 1500mi trip.
Doing all fluids on Bolt today. (except trans)
Hope I don't find as much metallic silt!
Going to put some strong magnets on all 4 plugs just because........
Thanks, Rob.
I lean towards Bilsteins, however as I do not get to drive the P-38 like I stole it, possibly Monroes will be just fine.
Cheaper too!
Sorry to hear that your traffic laws are getting even more draconian!
I have loosely followed the slow degradation of the driving conditions over there via Clarkson's rants on Top Gear over the years....
Not quite that bad here, in fact, if you do less than 80mph on most freeways, you are road kill!.
That's why when I want to go have a good solid off road hooning session, I go down to Oz and break out the trusty '85
Virtually no rules or regs once you leave the sealed roads! How cool is that??
On a recent 20,000km trip round Oz, about 50% off sealed roads, we saw exactly 3 cops, all parked in towns......Beaut!
I would love to get hold of a P-38 down there and do the trip again clockwise this time.....Just as a comparison.