This week, we are shifting our base of operations up the coast to Oregon.....
I will either be on the roadside with a trailer load of Willys Jeep, or comfortable up North at our destination.....
Either way, I will attempt to check in from the road.
Hmmmmmm.....better go grease the drive line......
Can you get the gps to read out road speed?
Just checked Nano.....
Under : Instruments, Motronic, Instrument set up, There is something called "Tyre Coefficient" which defaults to 1.000
Seems suspiciously like a speed calibration for larger or smaller tyres?
I seem to recall seeing a speedo calibration function on a Nano?? Gotta go check after coffee...
And, as we are taxing Gilbert's arcane knowledge base, What is the sequence of button pushes to get into the hidden menus of the factory GPS?
I know they must be there, but so far, I have failed to find them......
Having a good chuckle about ad......Wife grazed the gate post backing out Bolt yesterday.
Left 5 grooves in the fence post....Did absolutely no damage to the rear light guards!
without them, I am sure I would be looking for a new taillight!
Wife had a good laugh as well.Thanks!
Annnnnd.....
As for "Piss Poor" air,
when was the last time you changed the pollen filters?
Oh, if a fault is logged in the HVAC control, it will stay in memory no matter how long it is powered down.
As Gilbert said, it will self test each time you turn on
the ignition. If a fault is present on any sub system, it will log it and display the book.
Generic OBD readers will not help, you need Nano or similar for HVAC.
When was the last time you changed / checked / greased your U joints?
As Scotty always did me right, I will just say that having met him a couple of times, he did try to make a sincere effort to run his business until life got in the way.........Job, family, lack of space in new home ....The whole thing.
Couple that with a few vociferous customers who blamed him when they could not work out their other issues.......He burned out, and bailed.
Had he shut down as he wanted, when he wanted, none of the ugliness would have happened.
It was his good buddy ToadHall who encouraged him to keep on when his heart (and head) was no longer in it, and his time for it was non existent.
Oh, Marty, it does not excuse him for not replying to you, however, I had a conversation with him about your data.
His "friend" at LR completely failed to come through for him as promised, and he said he was very embarrassed by the situation........
In any event, as I said, he did very well by me and many others for a long time. He certainly should have shut it down a year earlier.
Just saying, there is a back story to everything.........
Cheers!
Welcome to the pub!
It is a shame to see just how badly a new website owner can screw up a good thing.
Thankfully, a few of the folks who were banned for life got together and opened this site. It's a great group.
Good to have you aboard!
Cheers,
Tom
Martyuk wrote:
Interesting results...
I won't tell you how long it takes for my Viair 444C to fill the p38 tank ;)
Awww, Come on, Now you have to......If only to make us jealous, but mostly to give us an idea of what it can do!
Is yours the 2 cyl jobbie?
Physics type eh? Kinda suspected as much from the Resonance comment.....
I ran my re build 2 more full cycles and it's times dropped by a minute to 100Psi and 1: 30 to 125, so certainly wearing in.
Tested the pump on Bolt: 5:00 to 100 Psi. 8:15 to 125 Psi. Seems pretty good.
Very glad I tested the Borrego's pump....
I stopped the test at 5:45 and 30 psi.......Piston seal virtually knackered!
I gave the Borrego the the freshly re built pump.
Now, to order another seal kit for the knackered one.
I think I can now remove, refresh and re install one of these in about 15 min.....Simple once you do it a few times inna row!
HA!
Counter intuitive? P-38? Hmmmmmmmm
There is certainly something very interesting going on with the inlet reed. Perhaps some Physics type will crop up.
I like the theory of the resonant reed....If the long reed is actually bending itself around the edge to fully block the hole,
I would expect to see noticeable wear, or fatigue cracks at the fulcrum point?
Off to test the other 2 compressors.
I want to establish just how good a "Good" pump is.
Rebuilt with new cylinder, piston seal, and O rings.....
Of course "It will ride in with wear sir" however, I probably should have left it alone......
Here are the new numbers:
50 Psi- 2:20
75 Psi- 4:10
100 Psi- 6:35
125 Psi- 10:00
Really had to struggle from 100-125. I did not use any sealant on the reed valve O ring..You hear both use it or do not....
New seal obviously will need time to set, so I will run it a few more times to quantify that time.
May put a dab of silicone on the O ring...Or not?
Fun way to waste a morning though!
OK, so NOW I need to pull the pumps out of both 02s and test them.
Maybe do an O ring job on one of the spare valve blocks?
With luck, I can stretch that out to the afternoon, and avoid any yard work.....Hehe..
Cheers,
Tom
Well, the results are in, and they are very conclusive, if counter intuitive......
Rather than doing this on the vehicle, I set up a test rig in the shop.
Filling an 9.5l tank from empty to 125 Psi.
Vbatt was 12.1v for the duration of both tests.
With the reeds in the "Logical" configuration with the long reed beneath the short spacer :
50 Psi- 5 Min
75 Psi- 10 Min
100 Psi- 17 Min
125 Psi- 21 Min
Annnnnnnd......In the "Normal" configuration with the short spacer beneath the long reed:
50 Psi- 2 Min 10 Sec
75 Psi- 3 Min 45 Sec
100 Psi- 5 Min 45 Sec
125 Psi- 7 Min 45 Sec
So, surprising but conclusive proof that the designers got it right, The intake reed is indeed not supposed to directly cover the hole..Go figure?
This would be something to look for if the compressor has been rebuilt by PO and seems a bit slow to pump up.
This was done with a used pump of unknown age. (Tag missing) But probably 99-02 vintage
As the motor and bearings sound very good, I will now go and rebuild it with a new kit, and re test. Just to see if it makes any
difference (and to know I have a good spare.)
I will try the "air up from empty" test today with both orientations, and report back.....
Thanks for posting photos, Gilbert.
Anyone got an exploded view diagram of this beast?
It would seem to me the short piece would be on top to act as an progressive "Leaf" spring assist for the actual working reed.
Assembling them with the short bit underneath could cause a lot of bending moment against the shorter one, possibly leading to
fatigue and cracking??
I can not understand just why the designer would handicap the capacity so badly?
Got caught up with boat projects so will check the other 2 pumps in the morning.
I may even purge the system and time how long to full with both assembly methods.......
That is the exhaust side It has guides in the casting to keep it aligned, I am talking the intake reed.......No O ring. just flaps on the flat surface
Aloha,
I have been messing about with a couple of spare compressors this afternoon and have noticed something possibly amiss.....
The exhaust valve makes sense with it's O ring seal and stiff backing plate, but the way both of the units I took apart were assembled, the
intake reed valve has a short piece under it which effectively prevents it from sealing on the flat surface of the head. This allows a lot of air to return to the intake side
on every compression stroke!
Thinking this was wrong, and as I have 2 on the bench, I assembled one as it was (and like I saw in several you tube videos) with the short intake reed below
and one with it in the logical place, above.....
Upon bench testing, the second method provided about 2x the airflow. To eliminate the variables of piston and motor, I swapped the order of assembly on both and re tested.
Same result. Short reed above and long reed on the bottom works much better......
Next, I will check the 2 pumps on the Borrego and Bolt.....
Thoughts?
Theories?
Cheers!
Tom
All good now.....
It was not happy with my version of firefox...
See ya in a bit.
Will there be a new sign in?
The old one delivers a black page on my pc....
Cheers!