If you program both of the memory seat functions to 2 very different settings, lock the doors with the fob.
Unlock with a long press (2 seconds should do) whichever position the seats move to is the number of the Fob.
Only works for 1 and 2. I got zilch when I tried this, so infer that I have 3and 4
The manual is a bit vague about whether this works from a normal locking or only if super locked, so try both?.......

I did a rebuild on a spare valve block for the HSK yesterday using an LK8 kit. Fully successful as of this morning
it is no longer doing what the Duchess was.....Sitting on it's haunches in the AM.
I did need to R&R the driver pack after the initial install, as it would only raise the RH side......
I should have known better than to put in an untested driver pack. Now in the bin!
There have been a few threads lately about possible parts missing from LK8 kits, however
this was a kit purchased last year, and no issues with parts.

OK,
I have 2 tasks.....
I will try inputting the fob code for #3 from Bolt into the Fob 1 position on the HSK.
Second, I will get a receiver from the breakers on my next visit, and send to you.
Depending upon the availability of P-38s at breakers, this could be a while.
As for the possibility of my having 2 Fob 3 keys? They have never gotten out of sync, even after the
spare being unused for months. This is what leads me to believe I may have a 3 and a 4.
I will report back on the experiment with the fobs I have.
Cheers!

Thanks, Sloth!
So if, I have this straight, The first fob code input will generate the next 3?
There are 4 possible fobs that were at one time available here for NAS spec. (Not anymore though.)
I have used the seat and mirror memory function to confirm that I have 2 "Fob 3" keys for Bolt.
As there was no response from the seats upon a long press of the unlock button I will surmise I have indeed
got 2 Fob 3 keys. (Possibly one is fob 4....Gotta find my receipt) I did program the seats into Becm memory first.
Would the code I read as Fob 3 in Bolt's Becm be what I would input into the HSK Becm in position 1 to
enable me to use one of my 2 known good fobs for the HSK?

In any event, I do have the fob with key for the HSK as well as 2 other functional fobs I could send you to be read.
Please advise via PM what you will want for this service?
It would be nice to get the HSK fob working again, as well as knowing the codes of the other fobs.

Gilbert: It was indeed Turner Diagnostics.............

Cheers,
Tom

Yep, classic sign of a Poltergeist?
When it went to full tilt, did the bar graph max out as well? If so, the controller simply threw a wobbly.
Marty would have more insight on that one.

That would be the codes which are displayed under "Fobs" at the end of the "Alarm" Settings on Nano.
They are 2 and 3 number codes. I assume this is the number you get when you do the conversion of the bar codes.
I believe they can be re written, but do not know if this would be enough to, yes, use a fob from a different
car.......The 2000 HSK we just acquired has a non working fob and PO says it just suddenly stopped working.
I suspect, looking at the service records that it stopped when the Becm was replaced, and he was told it was
probably the fob.....He sent it to the Ebay bloke in the UK who said it was good, but no joy.
The garage he was using also replaced the ignition lock and provided a new valet key about 6 months prior to
the Becm replacement.
There was a line item on the bill for Turner engineering, so I suspect they were the jobber who provided the Becm.
I did check and found both the HSK and Borrego share fob code 96 for Fob 1.
Sadly, when i bought the Borrego, I was only able to get fob 3 from RR, so no joy there!

Does anyone know if it is possible to change any of the 3 fob codes on an unlocked Becm using a Nano?
Cheers
Tom

Marty has been there, and has the T shirt to prove it!
He sells them on his web shop. Buy local and save!
http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=75&product_id=85

Echo-Echo wrote:

Trawling through this Forum, I've just read this. Could it have been L Jackson, The Rocket Site, Misson, Bawtry, Near Doncaster ? I too went there in Austin the '70s and was intrigued by the range of ex-military gear they had (including a Land Rover on steroids with 900x16 tyres - no, not a 101). I was there for a rear axle for my Champ...

Still have the Champ?
Cheers,
Tom

Thanks Gents,
I did eventually go straight to Wayback and found what I was after. I need the YM 2000 special editions descriptions.
I have been offered an HSK edition. The owner said it was a special edition made for the Queen......
Turns out, it is just a high trim out edition. Nothing really special. Clean tho'
Oh, I have copies of RAVE on 4 platforms from Win Xp to 7 and my android. It is always with me offline :)
Cheers!

Sighhhh......
OK, so where can the good old info be found now?
I have searched all the links from this forum as well as the oter one......All broken......
I am actually looking for what makes a 2000 HSK an HSK.....
Any help appreciated, as always!
Cheers,
Tom

JUKE179r wrote:

This isn't a download but more of a website back up of that has interesting P38 information... Range Rover 4.0/4.6 Problems and Fixes
Here is Mr. Brabyn's actual website... The Enthusiast's Range Rovers Site by John Brabyn

Aloha Marty,
Long time no hear.....Understand you are busy down south, so thanks for chiming in.
I hear you about a "Properly maintained" system not needing any kind of work around.
Sadly, I see way too many very nice examples of P-38s in the breakers yards here on the west coast.
5 just in the last week!
I do know there are reasons for this aside from immobiliser issues, but a few of the folks I have contacted
to find out why they were hauled off indicated lock out/ immobilisation as the "Final straw" (I collect receipts I find in the cars that have names and numbers....So far, no one has gotten upset....)
If this board, which is dead easy to fit keeps even a few out of the wreckers yards, that is a good thing.
In my personal case, I have 2 2002s which have everything working perfectly, and they are box stock.
However, my wife drives one and has been immobilised by her now gone 2000 a few times in the past.
Knowing that that cannot happen to her is a great relief for me! She loves the P-38, but if she gets stranded far from home, it will mean a rescue, and probably a new car without the issues..........
As for theft?? Are these beasts really theft prone? I know values are going up, so onward, it could be more of an issue. A secret switch somewhere would thwart most thieves.....
I am installing SPDT high rel mini toggles to switch this circuit in and out as needed.
SOP is use the fob, and no issues, but just in case......
Cheers Mate!
Tom

Aloha all,
I was nor sure just where to post this, as I believe it needs to be posted EVERYWHERE!
Recently, I was directed by KCR (Thank you!) to a bloke named Simon.....
He has come up with a nifty postage stamp sized board which, when inserted into the Bosch engine ECU will send the mobilisation
code needed for the fueling and ignition to function. There are 3 wires to solder on to the board and one pin lead to clip.
Install takes about 15 min start to finish. He needs to know the mobilisation code as it is pre programmed into the chip.
He can provide the chip preinstalled into an appropriate ECU which just needs to be swapped in. No soldering skills needed.
There is also a jumper to install at the Becm to disallow it having a say as to cranking, which it does indeed
disallow in an alarmed and immobilised state.
With this device installed, I proceeded to annoy the Becm by locking with the fob, and unlocking with the key in the door.
Normally, this will trigger the alarm and immobilisation mode will be activated needing either the EKA or a push of the button on a working fob.
To my utter delight, I found that the engine started just fine and there were no notices on the dash. All systems worked fine as well.
Of note, the dashboard alarm Led does continue to flash as if the alarm is going off. As I have unplugged the sounder,
this is the only indication I have that there is anything going on. I believe sounder can also be disabled in Becm with Nano....
I then locked the car with the key, and waited 2 minutes.....The Becm goes to sleep, so no unwanted battery drain.
I got 2 of these and will install in the Borrego tomorrow.
The peace of mind this will bring to me with regard to wife and friends using the trucks is priceless! No worries about the dreaded
"Engine immobilised, enter EKA or press fob" message to them when far from me and the Nano (Also, always seems to happen on a dark and stormy night) :)
I believe this little board could keep a good number of very nice P-38s out of the Knackers yards!
Especially considering the difficulty / expense involved in getting replacement fobs now.
Oh, yes, I do not work for or with Simon. Please contact him if you have questions. He is now registered on this forum, so should respond.....He is "PsiDOC"
I shall continue to report on performance as needed, but so far? FLAMING BRILLIANT!!!!!
Cheers, Simon!!
Tom

Sloth wrote:

It probably has an emulator fitted, rather than being 'programmed out'

Works well enough if done right - my M57 ECU is the same. Someone has recently done one for the Thor ECU too.

The emulator just sends the code the BeCM would have sent, as you'd expect.

I have installed a few Mobi-Lize units on Gems over the years, and would be keen to know who is doing one for Thor?
Do you have any info on the Thor variant?

For us un civilized flat 4 pin Neanderthals here in NA, we have this:
https://www.amazon.com/Rover-YWJ500130-Trailer-Wiring-Range/dp/B0096W5F2G?ref_=ast_sto_dp

It is spendy, but is a plug and play option that works well.

KCR wrote:

There's a guy in the P38 UK group who does the same standalone Job for the GEMS and the THOR ECU. Simon Doherty ...

Is there an contact for Simon aside from Facebook (which I am not on) as I would be interested to learn
he has managed to bypass immobilization for Thor. I know it can be done, and I have had several conversations
with the Mobil-Ize bloke in Oz, who said he was contemplating the hack for Thor.........
As much as I "admire" the P-38 security system, I would install an engine immobilizer bypass in a blink!
Cheers

+1 on disconnecting battery.
It sounds like the charger may have a bad diode in the bridge rectifier, thus is passing a serious amount of ripple on to the system.
There are some "Fancy" chargers that pulse to attempt to de sulfate the battery. These can also cause enough ripple as to harm delicate electrics. With a stone dead battery, until it accepts enough charge to be a filter, the charger will be powering all the electrics.
Pulsation, or ripple is not good.
Disconnecting the battery and fully charging is the correct course as Marshall suggests

Some observations on random EAS and locking issues. I am hoping Gilbert can offer a theory.....
My friend is still here and using Bolt to run errands with. (He is the one who had odd issues with EAS a couple of weeks ago......)
A few days ago, he was parked next to the Borrego, and when he unlocked Bolt via Fob, whilst talking on his CDMA phone
the Borrego promptly woke up, and lowered just the rear end to the bump stops. (Timer relay is out, and just a 4 pin in place.)
It has had zero issues with EAS prior to this, and none since.
2 days ago, he was walking past the Borrego, and his phone rang. The Borrego locked itself. No fobs involved, but the dogs
were in the car, and wife had just checked on them, thus BECM was awake. Wife had left keys in the ignition, so had to use Valet key
and then fob to re mobilise.
Last night in Bolt, he turned in the seat to get something from the back seat, sat on his phone and butt dialed it. The doors locked themselves!
I am aware that CDMA phones can affect EAS as I was helping a friend in Australia figure out why his would randomly go to access
height for no apparent reason. It turned out that it was his phone and it only occurred when he was in a fringe signal area, thus phone was putting out more power to connect. Around town, no issues.
Here, his CDMA phone has effected both the 02's but only when he is in a low signal area.
I have GSM phones and have not had issues, that I am aware of. My Mate in Oz also had no issues once he switched to an GSM phone??
I know the factory phones in these were CDMA in US, so I am curious as to what has changed, if anything?
Maybe the factory phones were to blame for some folks EAS isssues?
Any clues?

Craig-Robinson wrote:

Bolt wrote:

And yet, you have not answered the variously phrased question:
When you turn the key and "Crank" it, or jump the relay under the bonnet, does it go:
"RrrrRrrrRrrrRrrrRrrr" Or does it go "Click"
New starter will certainly not hurt, but if there is a wiring issue, bad relay, etc, you will keep on chucking parts at it with no result.
A dodgy starter can sometimes be diagnosed by having some one turn the key to the "Crank" position, whilst you are under the car ready to give the starter a good belt with a soft headed hammer. If it goes, then the brushes have had it, and it is time for a rebuild / replacement

Perhaps you should learn to read what is very clearly written, instead of responding the way you have. Here is my response way before your comment that addressed that very point.

"May 31, 2021, 5:03 PM #6

I jumped the starter fine yesterday but the car wouldn't start at all. All that was happening was a click. Today? The starter motor is doing nothing at all. I guess that answers my problem, or does it? I can't get under the car easily myself so, with that in mind (if that is the problem) then I'm goosed right now."
So thanks for nothing.

So, before you jump on folks who are trying to help you sort your problem.........
I did indeed read your post carefully. Twice. And this statement is what I was questioning:

"Battery checked and is at +12.45v. Checked relay & fuses. Relay is clicking. Jumped relay pins for starter motor and it works as should."

That says starter MOTOR worked as it should.
I was merely trying to get a clarification on what was happening, so I could run through the possibilities.
You threw Gilbert for a loop as well, as he went to Spark as an issue, thus he also thought it was spinning.
I note you did not ream him for his erroneous suggestion????
Best of luck, and remember, this is a friendly pub format forum.
Cut us some slack.
Good luck.
Tom

And yet, you have not answered the variously phrased question:
When you turn the key and "Crank" it, or jump the relay under the bonnet, does it go:
"RrrrRrrrRrrrRrrrRrrr" Or does it go "Click"
New starter will certainly not hurt, but if there is a wiring issue, bad relay, etc, you will keep on chucking parts at it with no result.
A dodgy starter can sometimes be diagnosed by having some one turn the key to the "Crank" position, whilst you are under the car ready to give the starter a good belt with a soft headed hammer. If it goes, then the brushes have had it, and it is time for a rebuild / replacement