Gilbertd wrote:

I changed a front hub on a friends car but it was about 4 years ago now. If I remember right, the 'tube' with the hole in it for the sensor could be rotated to make sure it lined up properly. So not a problem with the hub but an installation error......

I just went out and had a look at the old hub assemblies.......
It is true that the tube is not part of the casting, however, it is thoroughly pressed onto the casting.
How would you shift it?
Loosen the bolts and use a chain wrench?
I am going to go with mis manufactured rather than mis installed on this one.
Without a machine shop and specialized tools, that tube is not going to rotate ????.........Is it?
Like to try that one in the field?
Thanks for the continued help as always!

This is an FYI for anyone replacing hubs.....
I have discovered a problem with the RT Front sensor.....sort of....
Whilst swapping in the known good sensor from the Borrego, I noticed the sensor was not fully inserted and up against the reluctor ring.
The new OEM replacement hub has the hole for the sensor about 1/64th of an inch offset!!!!!! cannot set the sensor fully in.
This was not noticed when I did the replacement a couple of weeks ago, but obviously that would be a problem.
I am sure that the old hub allowed full insertion.
Guess it's wheel, brake and hub off and machine the hole a bit. Damn! I paid for OEM (Atlantic British)
because I try to avoid pattern parts
This is, of course, not the underlying issue as it fails on power up self test before any movement.....Just another issue.....

Jacckk: I have also been able to finally get error codes on Nano, but only after 6 faults are logged in ECU
In my case, swapping in another ECU had no effect. Good Luck, and please report if you have success!

"If you continuously have a Traction Failure warning then that’s something other than a repaired faulty sensor!"

Ahhhhh......Now there is the ongoing 1000 dollar (Or GBP) question.....What is the other "something"?

What you have said could explain why the error transferred to the Borrego when I moved the ECU back there.
I will do a road test and cycle the ignition to see if it clears.
The major question remains: Why are the TC and ABS lights on, faults reported on Message center, and no faults flagged on Nano??

The investigation continues.......

Gilbertd wrote:

Earlier Wabco C ones give an ABS Fault on the dash, followed by Traction Failure when moving, after which the message goes out but the ABS and TC warning lights stay on. Traction Failure then comes up for a few seconds when you turn the ignition off.

That is precisely what Wabco D does as well. Message centre beeps at me on switch off to remind me I have not solved
the problem! Nag Nag Nag!

Just got in from the 2300 mile return to Southern California.
Average speed for the entire trip was 62 mph and average Mpg was 18.1 (with our smaller gallons)
Flawless performance until 50 miles from home when EAS tossed an error saying Pressure Switch was closed, permanent fault.
Cleared fault with Nano and drove on, no issues.
Fortunately, the winter storm that we were looking at was delayed by 12 hours, so with a 15 hour and 45 min 1000 mile run today, we just got a
small snow flurry and a few showers so ABS and TC were not missed.
Still need to get to the bottom of this!
I have a Faultmate II registered to Bolt, so I will pull out the old XP laptop tomorrow and have a look with that.....Who knows???
I will also check all sensors to earth to eliminate that possibility.

There are decimal points in front of the numbers.....
So a bit below 1.2, but all the others report correctly on Nano.
All report 1.7 kph static.
What stumps me is the lack of any faults reported by nano???
Also, fail of static self test.
Again, when I was able to get live data up to 30 kph, Rt Front showed only the 1.7 kph.
So, definitely a problem, but swapping in known good sensor did not work, and known good ECU did not work.
I have now confirmed that wiring is fine.
What am I missing?

Got under the dash and had a look.........
The sensor wires are so obvious, no diagram needed......Still, thanks again!
I feel a bit of a dolt for not taking a closer look first!
I am still baffled.
The sensors ring out at the connector as:
LF- .951k
RF- .943k
LR- .961k
RR- .919k
Wires are intact to all sensors.
Message center will still throw TRACTION FAILURE error a few seconds after switching on ignition
and without starting the engine or moving. So, it must be failing the self test.
Nano still shows no faults after driving a bit even though TC and ABS lights are on and it has thrown
the ABS FAILURE message at me after moving a few yards.
I can only get a fault that will show on Nano by unplugging a sensor, in this case the RT Front. Nano then reports RT front sensor failure.
From Pete12345's post, it seems the only wheel that does not get confused is indeed the Rt front???
I would conclude from this that it is an ECU failure, yet swapping in one from the Borrego that had no issues
showed the same error, then the error moved to the Borrego.

Other than having 2 ECUs with the same failure, I have to admit, I am currently out of ideas. Guess I will need to
swap in the ECU from the 99 when I get home. I cannot think of anything the vehicle could be doing to harm them, so caution
to the wind, I will have to try that......
Unless someone has another idea I can try?

Looks like the 16 hour drive home will feature at least 6 hours with ice and snow. ABS and TC would be nice, but, of course not mandatory....
Thanks for the assistance so far......

Thanks Gilbert!
You are once again a hero!
Just what I need to slay this gremlin.
Cheers!

So,
If it reports Rt front sensor error, it is actually the Rt front?
I was able to get the nano to stay connected with live data to 30kph and 3 out of 4 sensors agreed. Rt front said 1.7 the whole time.
As for wiring and plugs.......The plug connections to the sensors are a moulded plastic with a bit of Red and White wire attached.
Do these go straight to the ABS ECU? no splices??
If so, (Gilbert) does anyone have the pin outs at the ECU for the inputs so I can ring out the wiring?
Made the 999.7 mile trip South in 16 hours with no issues and in sublime comfort, so now away from shop but still keen to get this sorted.
There are several 2001 and 2002 P-38s at breakers within 50 miles of me, so I can get another ECU or sensors if needed easily and cheaply.
I may get snow and Ice on the return and whilst not necessary, ABS and TC are nice to have......
Cheers, and Happy Thanksgiving to those who celebrate it!
Tom

Update on the situation with Bolt.
I put her up on jack stands to lube the ujoints and do a general inspection in preparation for a 2000 mile RT South to see the family.
When I did the wheel bearing check, I found the RT front bearings were toasted.
Left seemed ok, but as they are stock and with 185,000 on the clock, I ordered both sides.
This made me think that possibly the RT ABS sensor had been damaged by the eccentricity in the hub.
It looked undamaged, so I checked it against a known good one and resistance was close, so I swapped it in anyway.
Same problem, however, I did catch the Nano actually telling me there was an electrical fault with the RT Front sensor
and that this had happened 6 times. This is the first time that It has actually given me a fault read out.
I also got it to stay connected long enough to get a speed reading for all 4. RT front is dead. Stays at 1.7 kph

So, 2 questions......
First, do I recall reading posts that have said the Nano is a bit dyslexic when it comes to L and R sensors? Is the problem really on the left?
Second, If the sensor is ok, what set of plugs does the ABS go through to get to the ECU. Kick panel plugs are a bit tatty, but cleaned
recently (Need to chop and solder them soon.)
I am temporarily not able to access Rave from here.
New theories?

As an aside, the front hub swap out was the easiest thing I have ever done on a front end! Great design.
Took 20 min to remove the old one, and a bit less to put it back together, and that is including the brakes and wheel.
The same job on my 85 Classic would have been all day.

This started on a dark and stormy night last Christmas......
I was driving home from California on the Coast Highway so as to avoid a large Sierra snow storm on highway 5.
the coast route had snow and ice as well, and as soon as I hit it, I got ABS and TC lights on! Not sliding or braking, so coincidence????
Pulled over, cycled ignition, and issue went away for about 10 miles, then on again.
Pulled off again, attached Nano, and looked for faults. None reported for brake system??
So, as it was 3am and I had been driving for 14 hours, I drove on.
Oddly, the ABS and TC seemed to be actually working...

For the last year, I have looked into the problem a couple of times, and again, no faults are ever reported by Nano.
When you turn on the ignition, and without starting the engine all 3 amigos go on.
After about 15 seconds, the Brake light goes off, and the message center beeps telling me I have an ABS failure.
Once I start the engine, and move the vehicle a small distance, (the usual distance that is needed to extinguish
the TC and ABS lights) the message center tells me I have Traction Control Failure.
I have 2 2002s here, and a 1999, so I compared readings from the Nano.
I get 2.33 to 2.35 volts on all sensors on all 3 and the nano says I am doing 1.7kph at a standstill.

Since this is an issue of the system failing at self test and before even starting the engine, and since all initial
readings for all 3 vehicles are virtually identical, I thought possibly it was an issue with the ABS ECU. So,
I pulled the working ECU from the 02 Borrego, and placed it in Bolt.
The issue went away for about 100 yards, then came back with the same message center warnings.
Anyone have any ideas so far??

Now, it gets stranger......I took the known good ABS ECU back out and installed it back in the Borrego.
The Borrego now has the SAME SYMPTOMS!!!!!
Identical behaviour when I switch on ignition.
Installing the ECU in Bolt for 5 minutes seems to have affected it. Again, no errors logged to be read by Nano!
Now I have 2 02s with the same issue. One that started on the road, and the other started in the shed by swapping in the ECU to Bolt.
Can anyone think just what is going on here, because I am stumped!
I hesitate to try the ECU from the 99, because it works...... but may take the Borrego ECU and try it the 99 to see if the problem shifts as expected........
Cheers,
Tom

From your last post, I would lean more toward a bad earth point.
When you turn something on, (especially a high current drawing device like lights) and something else acts up on a P-38,
It is usually an corroded or loose ground.
New fuse box will certainly not hurt, but run through the earth points as well.

That's what I suspected as well, but no faults logged, and for the brief time it lets me look at live values as I speed up, all sensors are returning data????
I will dig into it further.
I have checked both front sensors with an ohm meter and they look ok. The plastic surrounding the pins crumbled however, so I need to get some weather pack connectors and replace them.
Will check rears when it dries out this weekend.

I have a similar fault, which started about a year ago. ABS Fault and in a few seconds, Traction failure fault on the message centre.
15 seconds after I start the engine, and the Brake light goes out, and without moving, I get the TRACTION FAILURE message.
Once I start to drive, and get over about 5mph, I get ABS FAULT message.
I have never found any error codes stored in Nano?
Like Gilbert, who I believe has a similar issue?, I have been a lazy sod and not really tried to fix it......
Oh, TC and ABS seem to work when I tried them on a dirt lot!
Any clue?

My 02 does this occasionally.....
It is caused by the fluid level being ~just~ at the point above the sensor closing it's contacts. When it sloshes a bit, it throws the error.
Mine will come on going around a particular corner, or traversing a side sloped driveway at my neighbors house.
I just top it up. Problem solved.
As brake pads wear, the volume of fluid retained by the calipers increases, thus it leaves the reservoir, only to return to make a
mess when you replace the pads and re-compress the pistons into the calipers. Be sure to rinse it off quickly.......
So, top it up to the max line and see what happens, probably not electrical......Or, as it is a P-38, perhaps it is!

Here is another, more permanent solution to allow starting with all of these issues.........

Just to update on my testing and continued use of Simon's emulator boards.
I have been using 2 of them on my 99 and 02 Bosch ECUs for about 6 months now, under various conditions, and am
VERY happy with the results. That is, being able to start the engines and go home no matter what I have done to annoy the
security system.
For those not familiar with this device, it is a small board that is installed in the ECU which will send the mobilization code to the ECU
each time you start the engine. This was designed originally to allow the use of the Bosch motor in race cars without the Becm being needed.
Installation requires soldering skills, but is not difficult. You also bypass the Becm starter switch circuit at the Becm. 2 wires, and some more solder.
This allows cranking when in an alarmed state by taking away the Becm's "Vote" on granting crank when the key is turned.
Once started whilst in an alarmed state, I have observed that all systems work normally. The only indication that all is not normal is the alarm light on the dash blinking. I would imagine, but have not tested, that the alarm horn may be triggered as well, but as my sounders are unplugged, I am not sure.
Only "Down" side, I have observed is that by bypassing the starter circuit, you can start it in gear, which annoys the transmission ECU, so a bit of care needed.......
By the way, I have working fobs for both and all door locks work as they should. In my case, this is an "Just in case the Missus is away from home, and the thing acts up, for any reason", she can get home and will hold off with the gallon of petrol, and a match..........
Missus insists that she be able to start it like any other car........This device allows that! Happy wife!
Again, I do not work for Simon, just like his boards! With fobs getting thin on the ground, this will keep more P-38s on the road! A good thing!

When you reconnected the battery, did it ask for the usual reset of windows and sun roof?
Did it ask you to re sync fobs?
If, not, it seems like it is behaving as if it has no idea on whether windows are up or down.....
Try removing battery power for a few min and reconnect. It should beep at you and tell you nothing is set as far as windows and sunroof.....
Of course, have the keys in your pocket when you do this

Yep! X8r is correct
How I got LK8 I have no idea..........

If you program both of the memory seat functions to 2 very different settings, lock the doors with the fob.
Unlock with a long press (2 seconds should do) whichever position the seats move to is the number of the Fob.
Only works for 1 and 2. I got zilch when I tried this, so infer that I have 3and 4
The manual is a bit vague about whether this works from a normal locking or only if super locked, so try both?.......

I did a rebuild on a spare valve block for the HSK yesterday using an LK8 kit. Fully successful as of this morning
it is no longer doing what the Duchess was.....Sitting on it's haunches in the AM.
I did need to R&R the driver pack after the initial install, as it would only raise the RH side......
I should have known better than to put in an untested driver pack. Now in the bin!
There have been a few threads lately about possible parts missing from LK8 kits, however
this was a kit purchased last year, and no issues with parts.

OK,
I have 2 tasks.....
I will try inputting the fob code for #3 from Bolt into the Fob 1 position on the HSK.
Second, I will get a receiver from the breakers on my next visit, and send to you.
Depending upon the availability of P-38s at breakers, this could be a while.
As for the possibility of my having 2 Fob 3 keys? They have never gotten out of sync, even after the
spare being unused for months. This is what leads me to believe I may have a 3 and a 4.
I will report back on the experiment with the fobs I have.
Cheers!