KCR wrote:

There's a guy in the P38 UK group who does the same standalone Job for the GEMS and the THOR ECU. Simon Doherty ...

Is there an contact for Simon aside from Facebook (which I am not on) as I would be interested to learn
he has managed to bypass immobilization for Thor. I know it can be done, and I have had several conversations
with the Mobil-Ize bloke in Oz, who said he was contemplating the hack for Thor.........
As much as I "admire" the P-38 security system, I would install an engine immobilizer bypass in a blink!
Cheers

+1 on disconnecting battery.
It sounds like the charger may have a bad diode in the bridge rectifier, thus is passing a serious amount of ripple on to the system.
There are some "Fancy" chargers that pulse to attempt to de sulfate the battery. These can also cause enough ripple as to harm delicate electrics. With a stone dead battery, until it accepts enough charge to be a filter, the charger will be powering all the electrics.
Pulsation, or ripple is not good.
Disconnecting the battery and fully charging is the correct course as Marshall suggests

Some observations on random EAS and locking issues. I am hoping Gilbert can offer a theory.....
My friend is still here and using Bolt to run errands with. (He is the one who had odd issues with EAS a couple of weeks ago......)
A few days ago, he was parked next to the Borrego, and when he unlocked Bolt via Fob, whilst talking on his CDMA phone
the Borrego promptly woke up, and lowered just the rear end to the bump stops. (Timer relay is out, and just a 4 pin in place.)
It has had zero issues with EAS prior to this, and none since.
2 days ago, he was walking past the Borrego, and his phone rang. The Borrego locked itself. No fobs involved, but the dogs
were in the car, and wife had just checked on them, thus BECM was awake. Wife had left keys in the ignition, so had to use Valet key
and then fob to re mobilise.
Last night in Bolt, he turned in the seat to get something from the back seat, sat on his phone and butt dialed it. The doors locked themselves!
I am aware that CDMA phones can affect EAS as I was helping a friend in Australia figure out why his would randomly go to access
height for no apparent reason. It turned out that it was his phone and it only occurred when he was in a fringe signal area, thus phone was putting out more power to connect. Around town, no issues.
Here, his CDMA phone has effected both the 02's but only when he is in a low signal area.
I have GSM phones and have not had issues, that I am aware of. My Mate in Oz also had no issues once he switched to an GSM phone??
I know the factory phones in these were CDMA in US, so I am curious as to what has changed, if anything?
Maybe the factory phones were to blame for some folks EAS isssues?
Any clues?

Craig-Robinson wrote:

Bolt wrote:

And yet, you have not answered the variously phrased question:
When you turn the key and "Crank" it, or jump the relay under the bonnet, does it go:
"RrrrRrrrRrrrRrrrRrrr" Or does it go "Click"
New starter will certainly not hurt, but if there is a wiring issue, bad relay, etc, you will keep on chucking parts at it with no result.
A dodgy starter can sometimes be diagnosed by having some one turn the key to the "Crank" position, whilst you are under the car ready to give the starter a good belt with a soft headed hammer. If it goes, then the brushes have had it, and it is time for a rebuild / replacement

Perhaps you should learn to read what is very clearly written, instead of responding the way you have. Here is my response way before your comment that addressed that very point.

"May 31, 2021, 5:03 PM #6

I jumped the starter fine yesterday but the car wouldn't start at all. All that was happening was a click. Today? The starter motor is doing nothing at all. I guess that answers my problem, or does it? I can't get under the car easily myself so, with that in mind (if that is the problem) then I'm goosed right now."
So thanks for nothing.

So, before you jump on folks who are trying to help you sort your problem.........
I did indeed read your post carefully. Twice. And this statement is what I was questioning:

"Battery checked and is at +12.45v. Checked relay & fuses. Relay is clicking. Jumped relay pins for starter motor and it works as should."

That says starter MOTOR worked as it should.
I was merely trying to get a clarification on what was happening, so I could run through the possibilities.
You threw Gilbert for a loop as well, as he went to Spark as an issue, thus he also thought it was spinning.
I note you did not ream him for his erroneous suggestion????
Best of luck, and remember, this is a friendly pub format forum.
Cut us some slack.
Good luck.
Tom

And yet, you have not answered the variously phrased question:
When you turn the key and "Crank" it, or jump the relay under the bonnet, does it go:
"RrrrRrrrRrrrRrrrRrrr" Or does it go "Click"
New starter will certainly not hurt, but if there is a wiring issue, bad relay, etc, you will keep on chucking parts at it with no result.
A dodgy starter can sometimes be diagnosed by having some one turn the key to the "Crank" position, whilst you are under the car ready to give the starter a good belt with a soft headed hammer. If it goes, then the brushes have had it, and it is time for a rebuild / replacement

Could also be a bad connection at the starter. a failed fuse box can also keep the power from getting to the solenoid.
You need to get under there and jump it at the starter itself. Is the
"Click" an robust one from the starter, or a quiet one from the fuse box?

To be clear: When you jump the starter relay, does it crank every time? or did it crank yesterday, but not today??
If it will not consistently crank, just click, then your starter is stuffed. Probably worn, and sticking brushes.

Yea, I know....."Search is your friend".......It's in Rave.......And i did indeed look in Rave. Just wanted to know if there were any top tips from someone who had done one.
Thanks for the responses. I have had a good look at it, and decided that I will drive the 5 hour return and get the horrid green one. I had real good luck with an paint company in Louisiana when I needed exact match paint for the Borrego front grill. Awesome match and a rattle can of paint plus a can of the correct clear coat was about 35 bucks delivered!
I will look into a can of white to match and just respray. Easy.
Lpgc: Naw, I did an autopsy and discovered the wedged in sharp sand and I am guilty of transporting the source of said grit, tho' I would have never suspected the grit getting in where it did.
Tyre as well, since I had felt a slight wobble a couple of times. Swapped both fronts to rear, problem gone.
Ordered a new stabilizer as mine is pretty weak.
Thanks again!

Well, it's not an oily bit, but it will leak as soon as the tape comes off.......
I loaned Bolt to a mate for a few days and is seems it does not like him.
First, it started a slight front end wobble, that turned into a 60 mph "Wobble- O- Death".
Found LF tyre is a bit wonky and the stabiliser is knackered....Easy fix.
Next, the EAS decided it was going to be in extended mode, blink and beep at him and refuse to lower.
This showed as an "Pressure switch failure" on Nano.....This it has done before, however clearing the fault
fixes it, and the switch, and pump are fine, with recent pump overhaul.
On the way back here, he was driving at highway speed, came to a slow bit, and when he released the brake pedel, he said it roared off like he had hit the gas. This was only once and only for a second, so I am thinking I need to lube the throttle cable.
Annnnnnd.....Last but certainly relating to the title of this post: The rear glass spontaneously shattered as he was driving a low speed on a smooth road.
All this in just 3 days!
He found some small sharp bits of gravel just inside the glass on the lower left corner. This was from some concrete blocks we hauled last year. Somehow a few grains went into the area between the glass and the plastic trim piece on the bottom of the lift hatch and worked their way into a tight enough spot to scratch the glass. bang!
Question is:
I know the glass is bonded, but is it tough to remove one from another hatch and re install. I can get a hatch from a breaker for 50 bucks, but it is a horrid green respray, so if I can swap the glass I will be happy.
I tried searching, but came up empty.

Sounds like a classic case of warped rotor on the front.
The additional shudder would be the actions of all of the slightly worn bushings being shoved back and forth.
A bad steering dampener would allow the effect to increase to the danger point.
The rotor could also be cracked. and a bad tyre can give shudder. Pulsing pedal however is down to a warped rotor.
Get the front wheels up and inspect the rotors, and calipers. like TODAY.
Very dangerous to drive it like this.
I have had "Sudden onset" of this on other trucks I have owned. Not fun!
Easy fix however....

The L322: Body styling by BMW.........Suspension and seating by the Marquis de Sade......
I checked in with my mate in Oz, and he says that when he needs to look respectable it's the shiny L322,
but if he has to go more than a few hours, or for towing, it's his 1986 Classic all the way!....Go figure??

Thanks!
That would be the difference then.......
Bolt does randomly tell me wiper fluid is low. bad indication, and random. Wiring issue, I suspect....

Last time I was in Oz, I bought some parts for the Classic from a bloke in Ballarat who has been into supplying parts for Rangies (and Land rovers) for a long time, and has owned them all
He bought an L322 for his wife so his (Gorgeous!) Classic would be around for him to use......after just
a short while, there it sat.
He said it had the most inexplicably uncomfortable seats of anything he had ever driven!
They look nice, but there is just something wrong with them.
I have put a lot of miles on my 85 Classic, and thought the seats do not look anything special, they
are very comfy on a long drive.
My mate Russell, also in Oz, bought an 03 and I have driven this as well. VERY stiff seats, ride? Not as nice as an P-38. I would say that on the 1-10 scale, 10 being a cloud, The P-38 is an 9, the Classic, an 7 and the L322 an 3
So........Nope! Between the seats and suspension, the P-38 wins out on comfort by a mile! (or even an Km)

Aloha,
Having a pair of 2002s, I have the opportunity to observe some slight differences. One of which is a real mystery.....
On the Borrego,when I press the wash button for the windscreen, the wipers start, the water sprays for as long as hold the button.
Once I release the button, the wipers continue for a few seconds to clear the screen, then park.
On Bolt, when I do the same, it does the wipe wash however, when I release the button, the wipers immediately park!
No delayed off.......
Is this an Becm setting? I would assume they should both act the same?? I know, assuming anything
on a Rangie is a short path to madness!!

Thoughts? Observations? Adjustments?
Cheers!

No connection to diagnostics when I have tried, and forgotten the timer relay was in the cubby......
I have heard of the odd instance that folks had gotten comms as well, not here.....

What will happen, ,and is not mentioned usually in discussions about the 4 pin option is the EAS will always revert to whatever setting it was on when the relay was unplugged, and replaced with the 4 pin. So, if it was in extended ride height when swapped, and left at access when you park and shut it off, it will rise to extended height when you next start the car. I use the 4 pin as The place I park right now is uneven, and the EAS makes the most amazing series of wheezes, clicks and farts when I park up and close the door. This can go on for 5-10 seconds as it gets itself just right in the parking space. Embarrassing in a crowded carpark when it does it as well......Wife asked me to make it stop doing this. Timer out, job done!

The only way to test an DSP amp is to swap it into a known good system.....
I suppose you could strip the needed wiring and plugs out of a vehicle and make a bench test rig, but I
have always just used substitution. As Gilbert says, it is in a stupid out of the way place. and you get black goo on yer arms!

So, since I had a good rummage behind the dash, the Ebay radio I just bought is working fine.
Not sure where the issue is, however, I suspect the B+ pins are loose in the plug or plugs
since back probing them to test seems to have cleared the issue....Time to tear into the other heads and get
the Borrego sound system up and running now.
I will open up the head this weekend and get the backlight going and give the plugs a clean and tighten up.

Thanks Marty,
Good to see you back around!
I had suspected as much, so the phone plug was the first stop. Clean and dry. Swapping in a spare DSP amp changed nothing.
When I swapped heads from the Borrego, the issues with each head followed right along.
I bought a working head from Fleabay and dropped it in. Worked great for a few minutes, then shut itself off....
Then turned back on for a few seconds, then off but with a very short pop and display would flash. it did this
about once a second and appeared it was trying to fire up, suffered voltage drop, and shut down.....repeat......
I could make it go on, or indeed shut off by switching on the headlamps. Delta V somewhere!
Yesterday, I spent some quality time in the centre console, and behind the binnacle looking for possible earth issues. I extracted the radio harness and looked for frayed wires, or loose anything.....
Put it all back in having found no issues, then decided to back probe the plugs and see what the voltage was.
I got a bunch of wild readings however, when I was finished, things had settled, and it has worked since.
I suspect that possibly I have a loose connector pin, and back probing forced it in a bit further.
Will have a play with the plug to tweak the pins, and give them a clean. Meantime, the new head has a bad backlight on the right side of the display. Are these bulbs or Leds?
I know the faces come off with a plug, so I will swap in a known good display and see about mending the light.
Next, I will take on the Borrego and it's "crackling when ignition is switched on"......Again, I have tried 3 DSP amps in it, and the issue remains, even with no head unit plugged in. Hmmmmm Just had a thought:
Perhaps the crackle is an input from the sat nav? The factory unit is there and functional.
Does it talk directly to the DSP as well?
More things to try.

That was my first thought as well, so I used the heat gun on it to get it nice and toasty.
Opened it up and pulled off the front panel, to give it a look and a clean out. No obvious issues, no change in behavior.
No effect. As for cold? It has been very "cold" by my personal standards, but in the real world, not
much less than zero C.so not really too cold.......
Further, it works when cold, for about 2 minutes each morning, then shuts down.
I will try the "new" head in the Borrego this morning and see if there is any correlation.
I am still thinking Earth point, but I also feel I may have 2 different issues, that started at about the same time.
Need to start at one end and work to the other.......
Cheers!

Well,it is DSP, but that part works, when it works....
I had both radios in both 02's go out within 3 days of one another.
On Bolt, the unit would play for about 2 minutes in the morning, then started showing "Telephone" and going silent.
There is no phone and no cabling for one....Sometimes, once it cooled down, it might give me 2 more minutes of music, before
doing the same thing.
On the Borrego, it started showing me all of it's pixels on the display, A couple of days later the display went blank, then shortly thereafter it went silent.....
I tried swapping the heads from one to the other and also swapped in known working DSP amps.
The issues switched with the heads, so it was the heads.....
So, driving Bolt with the dead stereo, it would occasionally start "Popping" from the speakers.
I could effect this by hitting the brakes, or turning on the headlights. Points to an ground issue (Imagine that?!)
I did get in a known good head, and this worked well in Bolt, until I hit the brakes, then it shut off......
So, I believe the common earth point here is C0708-0 per Rave.......I cannot however find the section that tells me where this is?
I suspect it is the earth point under the radio? Little help Gilbert?
On another note, on the Borrego, it crackles when I turn on the ignition whether or not the head is plugged in or not!
It is not the DSP as I have swapped in both my good spares as well as the one from Bolt. Same result.
Kick panel plugs are clean and shiny......Where is the "Other plug" on the way to the DSP?
I know on the "other side" this crackling has been diagnosed as failing DSP. I do not believe this is so.
But with the DSP amp, who knows! I could be wrong;)
Hope to get some tunes going again soon!
Cheers,
Tom

That looks great, and is a good use for the space as well!
I would suggest fitting Gel or AGM SVRLA type batteries (Sealed Valve Regulated Lead Acid) as there will
be hydrogen, oxygen, and sulfur dioxide evolved in the normal course of charging.
These can be annoying at the least, and explosive at worst......
If you do wind up with flooded type batteries, possibly you could work out a way to vent the compartment out the
large hole in the bottom?
Also, if you use flooded batteries, it would be a bad idea to place the inverter in with them. Electronics do not like
battery gasses, and the inverter is a source of ignition as well. I have seen both corroded to death electronics
as well as batteries which have blown their tops off due to an inverter or a solar charge controller being in
the same box as the flooded batteries. Sealed is not nearly as big an issue, but still not "Best Practice" to put the electronics too near.
Putting the inverter where your battery is now would be a good solution as it will be cool and dry there. Safer too!
Cheers!