Sighhhh......
OK, so where can the good old info be found now?
I have searched all the links from this forum as well as the oter one......All broken......
I am actually looking for what makes a 2000 HSK an HSK.....
Any help appreciated, as always!
Cheers,
Tom

JUKE179r wrote:

This isn't a download but more of a website back up of that has interesting P38 information... Range Rover 4.0/4.6 Problems and Fixes
Here is Mr. Brabyn's actual website... The Enthusiast's Range Rovers Site by John Brabyn

Aloha Marty,
Long time no hear.....Understand you are busy down south, so thanks for chiming in.
I hear you about a "Properly maintained" system not needing any kind of work around.
Sadly, I see way too many very nice examples of P-38s in the breakers yards here on the west coast.
5 just in the last week!
I do know there are reasons for this aside from immobiliser issues, but a few of the folks I have contacted
to find out why they were hauled off indicated lock out/ immobilisation as the "Final straw" (I collect receipts I find in the cars that have names and numbers....So far, no one has gotten upset....)
If this board, which is dead easy to fit keeps even a few out of the wreckers yards, that is a good thing.
In my personal case, I have 2 2002s which have everything working perfectly, and they are box stock.
However, my wife drives one and has been immobilised by her now gone 2000 a few times in the past.
Knowing that that cannot happen to her is a great relief for me! She loves the P-38, but if she gets stranded far from home, it will mean a rescue, and probably a new car without the issues..........
As for theft?? Are these beasts really theft prone? I know values are going up, so onward, it could be more of an issue. A secret switch somewhere would thwart most thieves.....
I am installing SPDT high rel mini toggles to switch this circuit in and out as needed.
SOP is use the fob, and no issues, but just in case......
Cheers Mate!
Tom

Aloha all,
I was nor sure just where to post this, as I believe it needs to be posted EVERYWHERE!
Recently, I was directed by KCR (Thank you!) to a bloke named Simon.....
He has come up with a nifty postage stamp sized board which, when inserted into the Bosch engine ECU will send the mobilisation
code needed for the fueling and ignition to function. There are 3 wires to solder on to the board and one pin lead to clip.
Install takes about 15 min start to finish. He needs to know the mobilisation code as it is pre programmed into the chip.
He can provide the chip preinstalled into an appropriate ECU which just needs to be swapped in. No soldering skills needed.
There is also a jumper to install at the Becm to disallow it having a say as to cranking, which it does indeed
disallow in an alarmed and immobilised state.
With this device installed, I proceeded to annoy the Becm by locking with the fob, and unlocking with the key in the door.
Normally, this will trigger the alarm and immobilisation mode will be activated needing either the EKA or a push of the button on a working fob.
To my utter delight, I found that the engine started just fine and there were no notices on the dash. All systems worked fine as well.
Of note, the dashboard alarm Led does continue to flash as if the alarm is going off. As I have unplugged the sounder,
this is the only indication I have that there is anything going on. I believe sounder can also be disabled in Becm with Nano....
I then locked the car with the key, and waited 2 minutes.....The Becm goes to sleep, so no unwanted battery drain.
I got 2 of these and will install in the Borrego tomorrow.
The peace of mind this will bring to me with regard to wife and friends using the trucks is priceless! No worries about the dreaded
"Engine immobilised, enter EKA or press fob" message to them when far from me and the Nano (Also, always seems to happen on a dark and stormy night) :)
I believe this little board could keep a good number of very nice P-38s out of the Knackers yards!
Especially considering the difficulty / expense involved in getting replacement fobs now.
Oh, yes, I do not work for or with Simon. Please contact him if you have questions. He is now registered on this forum, so should respond.....He is "PsiDOC"
I shall continue to report on performance as needed, but so far? FLAMING BRILLIANT!!!!!
Cheers, Simon!!
Tom

Sloth wrote:

It probably has an emulator fitted, rather than being 'programmed out'

Works well enough if done right - my M57 ECU is the same. Someone has recently done one for the Thor ECU too.

The emulator just sends the code the BeCM would have sent, as you'd expect.

I have installed a few Mobi-Lize units on Gems over the years, and would be keen to know who is doing one for Thor?
Do you have any info on the Thor variant?

For us un civilized flat 4 pin Neanderthals here in NA, we have this:
https://www.amazon.com/Rover-YWJ500130-Trailer-Wiring-Range/dp/B0096W5F2G?ref_=ast_sto_dp

It is spendy, but is a plug and play option that works well.

KCR wrote:

There's a guy in the P38 UK group who does the same standalone Job for the GEMS and the THOR ECU. Simon Doherty ...

Is there an contact for Simon aside from Facebook (which I am not on) as I would be interested to learn
he has managed to bypass immobilization for Thor. I know it can be done, and I have had several conversations
with the Mobil-Ize bloke in Oz, who said he was contemplating the hack for Thor.........
As much as I "admire" the P-38 security system, I would install an engine immobilizer bypass in a blink!
Cheers

+1 on disconnecting battery.
It sounds like the charger may have a bad diode in the bridge rectifier, thus is passing a serious amount of ripple on to the system.
There are some "Fancy" chargers that pulse to attempt to de sulfate the battery. These can also cause enough ripple as to harm delicate electrics. With a stone dead battery, until it accepts enough charge to be a filter, the charger will be powering all the electrics.
Pulsation, or ripple is not good.
Disconnecting the battery and fully charging is the correct course as Marshall suggests

Some observations on random EAS and locking issues. I am hoping Gilbert can offer a theory.....
My friend is still here and using Bolt to run errands with. (He is the one who had odd issues with EAS a couple of weeks ago......)
A few days ago, he was parked next to the Borrego, and when he unlocked Bolt via Fob, whilst talking on his CDMA phone
the Borrego promptly woke up, and lowered just the rear end to the bump stops. (Timer relay is out, and just a 4 pin in place.)
It has had zero issues with EAS prior to this, and none since.
2 days ago, he was walking past the Borrego, and his phone rang. The Borrego locked itself. No fobs involved, but the dogs
were in the car, and wife had just checked on them, thus BECM was awake. Wife had left keys in the ignition, so had to use Valet key
and then fob to re mobilise.
Last night in Bolt, he turned in the seat to get something from the back seat, sat on his phone and butt dialed it. The doors locked themselves!
I am aware that CDMA phones can affect EAS as I was helping a friend in Australia figure out why his would randomly go to access
height for no apparent reason. It turned out that it was his phone and it only occurred when he was in a fringe signal area, thus phone was putting out more power to connect. Around town, no issues.
Here, his CDMA phone has effected both the 02's but only when he is in a low signal area.
I have GSM phones and have not had issues, that I am aware of. My Mate in Oz also had no issues once he switched to an GSM phone??
I know the factory phones in these were CDMA in US, so I am curious as to what has changed, if anything?
Maybe the factory phones were to blame for some folks EAS isssues?
Any clues?

Craig-Robinson wrote:

Bolt wrote:

And yet, you have not answered the variously phrased question:
When you turn the key and "Crank" it, or jump the relay under the bonnet, does it go:
"RrrrRrrrRrrrRrrrRrrr" Or does it go "Click"
New starter will certainly not hurt, but if there is a wiring issue, bad relay, etc, you will keep on chucking parts at it with no result.
A dodgy starter can sometimes be diagnosed by having some one turn the key to the "Crank" position, whilst you are under the car ready to give the starter a good belt with a soft headed hammer. If it goes, then the brushes have had it, and it is time for a rebuild / replacement

Perhaps you should learn to read what is very clearly written, instead of responding the way you have. Here is my response way before your comment that addressed that very point.

"May 31, 2021, 5:03 PM #6

I jumped the starter fine yesterday but the car wouldn't start at all. All that was happening was a click. Today? The starter motor is doing nothing at all. I guess that answers my problem, or does it? I can't get under the car easily myself so, with that in mind (if that is the problem) then I'm goosed right now."
So thanks for nothing.

So, before you jump on folks who are trying to help you sort your problem.........
I did indeed read your post carefully. Twice. And this statement is what I was questioning:

"Battery checked and is at +12.45v. Checked relay & fuses. Relay is clicking. Jumped relay pins for starter motor and it works as should."

That says starter MOTOR worked as it should.
I was merely trying to get a clarification on what was happening, so I could run through the possibilities.
You threw Gilbert for a loop as well, as he went to Spark as an issue, thus he also thought it was spinning.
I note you did not ream him for his erroneous suggestion????
Best of luck, and remember, this is a friendly pub format forum.
Cut us some slack.
Good luck.
Tom

And yet, you have not answered the variously phrased question:
When you turn the key and "Crank" it, or jump the relay under the bonnet, does it go:
"RrrrRrrrRrrrRrrrRrrr" Or does it go "Click"
New starter will certainly not hurt, but if there is a wiring issue, bad relay, etc, you will keep on chucking parts at it with no result.
A dodgy starter can sometimes be diagnosed by having some one turn the key to the "Crank" position, whilst you are under the car ready to give the starter a good belt with a soft headed hammer. If it goes, then the brushes have had it, and it is time for a rebuild / replacement

Could also be a bad connection at the starter. a failed fuse box can also keep the power from getting to the solenoid.
You need to get under there and jump it at the starter itself. Is the
"Click" an robust one from the starter, or a quiet one from the fuse box?

To be clear: When you jump the starter relay, does it crank every time? or did it crank yesterday, but not today??
If it will not consistently crank, just click, then your starter is stuffed. Probably worn, and sticking brushes.

Yea, I know....."Search is your friend".......It's in Rave.......And i did indeed look in Rave. Just wanted to know if there were any top tips from someone who had done one.
Thanks for the responses. I have had a good look at it, and decided that I will drive the 5 hour return and get the horrid green one. I had real good luck with an paint company in Louisiana when I needed exact match paint for the Borrego front grill. Awesome match and a rattle can of paint plus a can of the correct clear coat was about 35 bucks delivered!
I will look into a can of white to match and just respray. Easy.
Lpgc: Naw, I did an autopsy and discovered the wedged in sharp sand and I am guilty of transporting the source of said grit, tho' I would have never suspected the grit getting in where it did.
Tyre as well, since I had felt a slight wobble a couple of times. Swapped both fronts to rear, problem gone.
Ordered a new stabilizer as mine is pretty weak.
Thanks again!

Well, it's not an oily bit, but it will leak as soon as the tape comes off.......
I loaned Bolt to a mate for a few days and is seems it does not like him.
First, it started a slight front end wobble, that turned into a 60 mph "Wobble- O- Death".
Found LF tyre is a bit wonky and the stabiliser is knackered....Easy fix.
Next, the EAS decided it was going to be in extended mode, blink and beep at him and refuse to lower.
This showed as an "Pressure switch failure" on Nano.....This it has done before, however clearing the fault
fixes it, and the switch, and pump are fine, with recent pump overhaul.
On the way back here, he was driving at highway speed, came to a slow bit, and when he released the brake pedel, he said it roared off like he had hit the gas. This was only once and only for a second, so I am thinking I need to lube the throttle cable.
Annnnnnd.....Last but certainly relating to the title of this post: The rear glass spontaneously shattered as he was driving a low speed on a smooth road.
All this in just 3 days!
He found some small sharp bits of gravel just inside the glass on the lower left corner. This was from some concrete blocks we hauled last year. Somehow a few grains went into the area between the glass and the plastic trim piece on the bottom of the lift hatch and worked their way into a tight enough spot to scratch the glass. bang!
Question is:
I know the glass is bonded, but is it tough to remove one from another hatch and re install. I can get a hatch from a breaker for 50 bucks, but it is a horrid green respray, so if I can swap the glass I will be happy.
I tried searching, but came up empty.

Sounds like a classic case of warped rotor on the front.
The additional shudder would be the actions of all of the slightly worn bushings being shoved back and forth.
A bad steering dampener would allow the effect to increase to the danger point.
The rotor could also be cracked. and a bad tyre can give shudder. Pulsing pedal however is down to a warped rotor.
Get the front wheels up and inspect the rotors, and calipers. like TODAY.
Very dangerous to drive it like this.
I have had "Sudden onset" of this on other trucks I have owned. Not fun!
Easy fix however....

The L322: Body styling by BMW.........Suspension and seating by the Marquis de Sade......
I checked in with my mate in Oz, and he says that when he needs to look respectable it's the shiny L322,
but if he has to go more than a few hours, or for towing, it's his 1986 Classic all the way!....Go figure??

Thanks!
That would be the difference then.......
Bolt does randomly tell me wiper fluid is low. bad indication, and random. Wiring issue, I suspect....

Last time I was in Oz, I bought some parts for the Classic from a bloke in Ballarat who has been into supplying parts for Rangies (and Land rovers) for a long time, and has owned them all
He bought an L322 for his wife so his (Gorgeous!) Classic would be around for him to use......after just
a short while, there it sat.
He said it had the most inexplicably uncomfortable seats of anything he had ever driven!
They look nice, but there is just something wrong with them.
I have put a lot of miles on my 85 Classic, and thought the seats do not look anything special, they
are very comfy on a long drive.
My mate Russell, also in Oz, bought an 03 and I have driven this as well. VERY stiff seats, ride? Not as nice as an P-38. I would say that on the 1-10 scale, 10 being a cloud, The P-38 is an 9, the Classic, an 7 and the L322 an 3
So........Nope! Between the seats and suspension, the P-38 wins out on comfort by a mile! (or even an Km)

Aloha,
Having a pair of 2002s, I have the opportunity to observe some slight differences. One of which is a real mystery.....
On the Borrego,when I press the wash button for the windscreen, the wipers start, the water sprays for as long as hold the button.
Once I release the button, the wipers continue for a few seconds to clear the screen, then park.
On Bolt, when I do the same, it does the wipe wash however, when I release the button, the wipers immediately park!
No delayed off.......
Is this an Becm setting? I would assume they should both act the same?? I know, assuming anything
on a Rangie is a short path to madness!!

Thoughts? Observations? Adjustments?
Cheers!

No connection to diagnostics when I have tried, and forgotten the timer relay was in the cubby......
I have heard of the odd instance that folks had gotten comms as well, not here.....

What will happen, ,and is not mentioned usually in discussions about the 4 pin option is the EAS will always revert to whatever setting it was on when the relay was unplugged, and replaced with the 4 pin. So, if it was in extended ride height when swapped, and left at access when you park and shut it off, it will rise to extended height when you next start the car. I use the 4 pin as The place I park right now is uneven, and the EAS makes the most amazing series of wheezes, clicks and farts when I park up and close the door. This can go on for 5-10 seconds as it gets itself just right in the parking space. Embarrassing in a crowded carpark when it does it as well......Wife asked me to make it stop doing this. Timer out, job done!