Update:
Things went very quiet after I sent photos, the correct part number for ALL P-38 header tank caps, and told them
they were basically totally wrong to state there was ever an different cap.
After threatening to start a payment dispute with Paypal, they finally got back to me.......
Blamed Covid, of course, and will be embarking upon an emergency Pull-Out-All-The-Stops build of an "Old Style" tank....
This, they promise to get to me ASAP.
With luck, it will be correct........I have asked that they send a photo of it prior to shipping.
Not that I do not trust them, it's just that I ABSOLUTELY do not trust them!
Time will tell.
In the meantime, I will have the $18 Amazon alloy wonder tank in 3 days, and will see if I can get it to slide in there.
I may need to have an 1/2 inch 90 deg elbow welded in the bottom in place of the fitting supplied, but other than smaller volume, it should do the job. Could be a really low cost alternative to ever cheaper plastic knock off tanks.
Allisport has ....or had, until their "design change", an customised cover for a bayonet cap. Looked pretty good too.
An outfit in Florida has the tank with sight glass as well. I would have bought from them, but I really wanted the switch version. I am still a bit hopeful they will come through, we shall see.
In the meantime, I found the small round job on Amazon for $19 bucks with free shipping......Ordered one. WCPGW?
Should get it next week, Quicker than anything the folks over there will achieve, I am sure, so will see.
Well, as it is an "Make offer" listing, I will offer 25 bucks and see what shows up!
How bad could it be?
May just need to have a local shop put on a larger dia bottom pipe....But perhaps not?
It is indeed a lower capacity, and I will not have a float switch, but I do not have one now, even tho I spent 210 pounds!
What the heck!
Hmmmmmm.
I preparing to order yet another plastic tank, as I have little faith Allisport will do the right thing......I stumbled upon this:
Looks like the bottom fitting is a but smallish, but possibly would work.
being LHD, I have plenty of room to install this shape tank.
For the price, just how bad could it be???
May order one just to see how bad it could be.....At least it comes with a cap!
Cheers!
I am inclined to agree at this point as they are clearly a bit delusional..........Sad really as they seemed to be a decent company. Their Neil Huggett, whoever he is should not be interfacing with customers as he is clearly not informed enough to do so. Whoever is feeding him erroneous information should, IHO, also be sacked!
Nevertheless, I am giving them a bit more rope, to see just how high they wish to hang :)
Anyone near Ledbury, Herefordshire that wants to pop round and show them what a P-38 tank top looks like?
They need help!
Here is my response to them: (It will be interesting to see how they respond)
Aloha Neil,
Yesterday? Sorry, no e mail, and no spam from you yesterday.
This is a tank, of whichever style, which looks like the GEMS model.
New or old does not enter into it. It is the wrong tank.
FURTHER, the cap for a P-38 Range Rover has remained the same for ALL years in ALL markets from 1995 through 2002.
The tank I ordered has provisions for the Throttle body return line, the radiator air bleed return line
as well as the overflow discharge line. That is 3 (THREE) small nipples by my count. This tank has only 2.
As there is physically no way for coolant to escape in case of an overheat, sending a screw cap would be useless, as the neck
has no provision for blow off.
So, the only way to sort this is to send me the correct tank which I ordered.
I have no idea how you have "since found " anything as i was assured by Jessica that you were changing designs,
thus out of stock, but I would be put on a list......
You further delayed by stating your "Welder was out sick"
By this logic, I have one of the first "New design" tanks manufactured, so there could really be no "we have since found"
I have posted a query on 2 Range rover forums and confirmed that the P-38 has only ever had a Black screw on pressure cap.
In all markets world wide. For your reference this is an PCD000070
So, the only solution that is going to satisfy me will be a replacement tank that matches Jessica's description as using the stock cap.
In other words: The tank i ordered and paid for.
Thank you for your prompt action to resolve this. Your company is highly regarded by the Range Rover community.
I will hope this was just a minor shipping error and can be rectified, and that I will be able to report that your customer
support is as reputed.
So far I have been frustrated, disappointed, and now insulted..........I would really like to be just plain satisfied
Regards,
Tom
Edit: Sorry, should have posted this in Oily Bits....No coffee yet.....Please feel free to shift it.
Aloha,
I seem to be getting the old "Baffle them with Bullshit" routine from Allisport!
They sent me a tank for a gems, which takes a cap that looks like it is from a Classic.....They sent no cap.
It has only 2 nipples, and no provision for over pressure blow off.
The last 8 weeks, I have been waiting for them to send their
"New Design" which is supposed to use the existing pressure cap rather than a bayonet style........
It seems they now are under the impression that "Some" P-38s were made with "Different caps".
YEA, Right!
Before this devolves into a trade war, can anyone recall seeing a P-38 with a plain screw on cap?
Here was his response this morning to my sending him pics of the tank they sent:
Comments welcome!
Hi Tom
After seeing the picture that you have sent it looks as if you have the new design which has replaced the original typr as shown in your first picture. The new design should fit the standard cap however we have since found that a few cars were built with a different cap which I imagine yours has. I can send a cap to you asap or we still have a few of the old parts so we could make an old style header tank for you but we don’t have any of the ALLISPORT caps so it would come with a standard bayonet cap.
Please let me know your preference so I can get this sorted for you.
If you are now trying to get the remainder of the sealant of the broken glass off the frame,
I have had very good luck using an electric heat gun to soften cured adhesives and remove them.
Not necessarily a good idea to remove goo from glass you wish to re use as differential heating can cause tempered glass to shatter.......
Well, as they say, big theories require bigger proofs!
So, are you positive the temperature of the air coming from the vents changes?
If so.....That's a good one!
If not, it is just possible that you are experiencing a bit of fluid dynamics.
If you have for instance a large Gin & Tonic, with ice.....and you rotate the glass, you would note that the ice and liquid
lag behind the container.
The same thing happens to the air mass inside a vehicle. If there is a warm pocket and a cold pocket, when you turn, the air will shift at a different rate than the container...in this case, a P-38.
I have not noted this on mine, however, in my large Ford work van in Hawaii, it was very noticeable as the smaller
air mass up front was cool, and the large air mass in the back was warm and humid. Turn either way, and things would be warmer or cooler.....
Try the experiment I mentioned. If it does not seem to work, drink that one, and make a bigger G&T.
Repeat till it works, or you forget what you were trying to prove!
Cheers,
Tom
Well CRUD! 300 bucks down and I am still using plastic!
I got my new Allysport tank just fine.
Took out the old one, fitted the sleek silver beauty, connected the hoses, filled, bled.......................Annnnd......
Discovered that the filler neck will in no way accept the stock cap!
The 1 1/2 month delay I experienced was due to the tank undergoing a resign to allow the use of the stock cap.
As they did not provide the cap, I figured that this is what I had. Nope, did not check first........
I have contacted them to ask what next.
On a side note, the return for the radiator bleed is on the side of the tank not the neck, so the pre formed
hard black plastic tube is not a nice fit and there is no provision for an overflow tube.
Possibly they just flat out sent the wrong tank??
Anyone used one of these?
Awaiting further developments......
Cheers!
EDIT: I looked at the part number I ordered, and it appears they dispatched the wrong tank!
Only has 2 nipples, not the three I need. Now to see how they handle this one!
Sighhhhh.........
Gilbert: Thanks! Of course, that would be the easiest solution.
The 85 did have a brass tank with the petrol motor, however when we dropped in the Tdi 300, we used it's tank as well.
Thus, I will want a tank cap for an Disco.
That would be a good option as well, and a bit less dosh! Could I trust the wife to heed the advice?.....Experience says a loud alarm and flashing light is what it takes to get the "other drivers" attention........
With the level switch, I will have a warning that the temp will rise SOON if I do not address the issue.
However, I look at this as an investment in my cooling system, and a way to eliminate what has been for me at least a very vexing problem. I just have very little faith in the currently available plastic tanks with all of the cheap Chinese knock offs out there.......
Mad-as.......Please do not misunderstand, I am as mean a bugger as they come!
I will however happily pinch a penny till it screams and in turn, buy something which I find to be good value!......Hang the cost!
A hand made, bespoke, "Custom" part like this? I could not do one myself, and I know it would be a bunch more if I commissioned a one off.
Cheers!
Marshall8hp wrote:
The $10 alternative. It might be worth considering.
That would indeed be an option, and I shall get hold of one to put in the Black plastic header tank on the 85 Classic
the next time I am in Oz..........The black one I have on the 300Tdi are a MUCH tougher plastic than the white ones.
The major problem from my standpoint is that I have had 4 tank failures on 3 vehicles in the last 15 years.......
I count myself lucky that each time I caught it before anything overheated.
I cannot see spending about the same amount to get an Range Rover branded plastic tank, although
it would probably be fine, I know this one will not leak, or suddenly burst on me. (Do it once, and do it right!)
Honestly, I am a bit surprised that there was never an option for the switch from the factory. I believe I read somewhere that there is provision of some sort in the Becm for low coolant, but they must have run out of I/O spaces on the CPU and dropped the switch option.
Even tho' I will be a bit poorer in the $$$ department, I shall be a happy camper when I get this installed!
Mad-as: For $300 bucks, I get the tank, and a low level float switch, and about $75 dollars shipping charge.
I will post the results.......
:
Well, I was finally able to order my Christmas present to self this evening.......
Allysport got their welder back from sick leave and caught up with back orders.
To replace the nice new German plastic tank that proceeded to split at a seam within 30 days, (Got my 89 bucks back from Parts Geek)
I have dropped $299 Yankee dollars into the UK economy (Glad to do my bit to help out!) to procure a new header tank with float switch!
Lot of $$ for a header tank, but you look at the number of times that an overheat due to loss of coolant
has triggered a series of expensive repairs, or in a few cases I know of, the final trip on a flatbed to the
knackers yard for an otherwise perfect P-38......I recon it is a cheap investment to be able to eliminate one more possible worry.
Now to figure out which section of the cluster to use to install my indicator.....Thoughts?
I also have a sonalert which will go under the dash and should wake you up quickly if the coolant level drops.
Cheers!
You get 1 free post of your choice!
And, I will buy anyone who shows up here a beer!
(I would anyway.....)
............................Or, if not, we could be at 28,000 by morning...........
David,
Thanks for the terrific photos!
Both of my 02s have decided the Left side needs to start leaking!
I have sealed the pollen filters and still they drip.
The only common denominator is both have no foam screen on the scuttle and this is the first time both have
been exposed to Douglas fir needles! The buggers slip in everywhere, and i am sure after seeing the photos that they
have managed to get into the drains under the pollen filter housings where they have joined the willow
leaves from their last home to make a really effective seal! Time to get some foam......
I now have a tent shelter as a garage for the Borrego, so I can take things apart without worrying about the copious rain we have here in the winter. Borrego will be first, then Bolt.
Thank you again for the detailed post!
Cheers,
Tom
Ouch!
Condolences and glad you had a "Local source" for spare parts! Tazzie being on a different planet as it
sometimes seems.......
(I tried to get a raw water pump for the boat shipped there and had a devil of a time)
As for what was done to the Rangie today?
It was pure abuse!
I used Bolt to shift a 20 ft half loaded shipping container about 10 meters across our block.
It was muddy and wet and the skids i was using kept on digging into the goo!
Got it done, and gave the beast a quick and well deserved water blast......
I am seriously impressed whenever I use the Rangie as a tractor!!!! The ABS system got a serious work out
and I doubt that I could have succeeded without it.
All in all a good day!
Well! Thanks again for creating this terrific site!!! (3 Cheers!)
As we seem to be "Padding the numbers" a bit......Count me in for one more frivolous post!
Seriously though. Will this be a negotiated 30k or a "No Deal" 30k????
If it is a No deal...errr...deal.....Then just what will the EU do?.
If we do not make 30k it will obviously be due to "Poster fraud" and we will demand a recount!
Carry on Gents! and let me just say here that all the help and support from this forum is very much appreciated
over here where we do not even know what AA Yellow is!
Looking forward to a new year as this one has been a bit of a disappointment.
Cheers,
Tom
PS: Hey! If you need a few extra posts, how about counting the Spam posts.......Or are you already doing that??
Absorption fridges are simply a heating element, so no particular surge, and no interference.
They do draw more current than an equivalent compressor fridge. Around 12 amps if memory serves.
So, Dave, your method would be much preferred as it leaves the stock wiring stock.
I have noticed with both my Classic, and the P-38 that RR used the barest minimum wire size possible....
Probably to cut costs. This basically means you cannot just hook up accessories to any lead you want to as
for the most part, they are already maxed out.
Compressor fridges have a controller that soft starts the compressor motor, so no real surge there.
They DO however throw out a fair amount of RF hash on the DC lines (as well as in the airwaves)
I have ferrite cores on the twisted pair shielded power lines on the 2 fridges I have onboard the boat here.
It is certainly possible it was interference from the compressor controller glitching the Becm.
If you think it was due to power draw, then simply connect a heavy lead (Fused) to the same wire, but at the bottom of the fusebox rather than at the Becm end. This would eliminate any voltage drop in the cable to the Becm.