Not done it on a p38, but there is a coolant pump that has similar issues on one of the other cars I have, usual way to fix brushes on that to reassemble is to tie them with cotton, then cut it off once you have that bit back together.

Usual source for brushes there is measure them and look on ebay. Lots of power tools use similar ones, angle grinders especially.

Bolts wise on a Thor there are 4 bolts holding the bracket on, two go into the upper manifold and are easily seen, the other two are on the lower edge of the bracket right at either end. I think mine had 2 X 8mm bolts with a hex head, and 2 X 4mm allen key bolts (had mine out ealirer this week to do the valley gasket)

On a p38 you might have enough room to get in and undo the bolts that hold the coil pack directly to the bracket, you can't do on the Disco. Whole thing will slide out of the side with a bit of a fight and manulipation, though I think on a p38 you have a bit more space there.

I've replaced both of mine, one was a Delphi that went in, other is a Bosch. I do have some Britpart ones that were purchased without realised that was what was going to turn up, and at least one of the plug leads was a real struggle to get to go on (pin was too large), so I decided against using them at that point as I didn't really fancy taking them out again soon. Mine came off eBay I think at the time.

If you look at the plug on the low voltage side, there are 3 contacts there, one is +12v the other two are grounds, Its a wasted spark type system if you want more info on how it works as such.

Grizzly wrote:

also the idle still seems a bit up and down.

Between 600 and 750 and back down again. Not irratic or violent unstable. But perhaps every 5 seconds.

I changed the idle air control valve. Just wondering what else to go for. MAF maybe ?

Sounds like a vacuum leak, Not sure what the breathers are like on the GEMS, but the ones from the top of the rocker covers can split on the Thor. Easy to check for though (check around the ends as they can split around the bits where the clamps go and leak without it being very visible).

Gilbertd wrote:

Power for the fuel flap comes from Fuse 14 but there is no relay involved (well there is but it's an internal one inside the BeCM). Button would have been in the instrument panel surround to the left. It doesn't lock as such, when you poke the button, it pops open so it isn't the same as some cars that have to be opened, it does that for you. If you take the instrument panel surround off you should find the connector for the pushbutton (black 5 way connector with only 2 wires into it, a Black and a Light Green/Grey) dangling in there somewhere. With the ignition off, it you short those two wires together you should hear the filler flap release grunt at you.

I have a feeling when FrankHudson had his EKA issues that he couldn't open the fuel flap with the button until the EKA had been entered even if the drivers door was open, so would suspect the reason for the messing about with it is another trying to fix the symptom problem rather than a real fault as such.

Did you clean/do anything with the idle air valve? If so, the other possible cause may be a vacuum leak, specifically I'd have a look at the crankcase breather that goes from the rocker cover to the inlet manifold. Having done the valley gasket on the Disco this week, I discovered that pipe is well past its best on mine (split at the end). Didn't have a replacement at the time so moved the clip around for now to cover the split up, I have some vacuum hose arrived today to hopefully replace it (if I can get it to bend in an acceptable manner without kinking)

Equally check any other vacuum lines as well while your there (including the one for your lpg vapouriser even though the lpg isn't working) Sometimes they can come into contact with other things and rub holes in the vacuum line where it gets plugged some of the time and not others.

Great stuff, will give it a go on Saturday. Other question is around removing the stereo to swap it - Rave seems to show a pair of flat hooked removal tools, inserted somewhere near the top of the radio. Couldn't see anywhere on there to actually do that, is that the correct thing to use on these or is there part to remove first?

Cheers, will give that a try and see. No idea if hes got steering wheel controls, will have a look at the weekend when I see it again. Sounds like swapping it is about as simple as it could get in that setup too.

Hi All

Can someone advise of the required button presses to input the code on the attached radio (battery was removed for welding, and since the display doesn't work the owner can't tell if hes inputting it correctly or not). We think this is the Clarion unit rather than the Alpine one, but would be helpful to confirm that too?

I think its a case of press button 1 the required number of times to input the first digit, then 2 for the second digit etc, but not sure what you should be pressing after that.

I have suggested that he considers sending it to Clarion for repair and code removal, though I know Richard did say they were running out of replacement screens with the last one he sent away so it may not even be an option now. Also how can you tell which audio system is fitted (or to ask the question in a different way, is fitting a different stereo likely to be less than straightforward on a 1997 DSE due to amplifers etc, vehicle doesn't have any sub or similar kit but not sure if it has the door amps or how to tell?)

RutlandRover wrote:

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AojTrWb43XFxg6wxMk2FJtmrR5Nr2A

Upload your things there.

Gordon is clearly busy. He can find them in there when he gets back from being busy and you won't need trouble yourself with making sure you catch him.

This folder doesn't want a login to access, but its also now empty? (It wasn't a few weeks back)

The listing seems a bit vague/confused on what years of vehicle it will work on. Some bits it says post 1999, other bits post 2005. Listing seems a bit of a copy/paste job.

Also this bit "1. No Internet Connecting, Or it will make damage to JLR Mangoose!!!" would suggest theres a good possibility that its not legitimately licensed software (the price suggests that may be the case as well). Theres similar hacked versions of VCDS about that do work, but have the same restrictions (only use the supplied software with the lead etc).

No I haven't used/seen it (just for clarity) but maybe someone else has done and will post back. I'd suspect your probabbly out of luck on it as the pinout for a lot of the systems other than the engine isn't even the same as other Land Rover models (even the P38 and the Disco 2 don't use the same lead for the nano due to that).

Thats not specifically a p38 problem, there are lots of other vehicles that have problems with pattern exhausts fitting well, its sometimes a case of luck. Doesn't help with some where they have been given a battering by the delivery service either.

The exhaust on the Disco when it was replaced, was a mixture of brands. I was fully expecting the backbox to be the cause of problems (as it turned up with a Britpart label on it) and was very surprised when it actually fitted without having to alter it in some way. Thats been about the only pattern exhaust I've had that went together like it was supposed to without having to modify it in someway.

You'd probably get that one delivered quicker than ECP can currently manage as well

I've had the same thing happen, I've found a lot of them are ok for around a year before they either degrade into gunge, or the plunger either splits or becomes detached from the rest of the holder rendering it useless.

Best lived one I've got is a random one brought in a petrol station in Coventry after discovering I had neither my charger or holder with me after catching the train there to bring a car back.

The front left wear does look like what you'd expect from under-inflation, wear on both shoulders with the middle much less worn.

dave3d wrote:

Richard,
I think you have narrowed the problem down. Although, a box did open up and I had to give permissions for Firefox to use the camera and mic.

I'd guess/assume your using Windows 10, If so then open up settings privacy, and check the camera section there hasn't got something set to block it (there are various settings there, but should be reasonably obvious what they do and will vary depending on what you've been using).

I would guess Firefox would be under the desktop apps section of that page?

At 50mph in a series I'd be more worried about being able to stop than anything else if the brakes on the one I've been in is anything to go by. The one posted above looks very nice though, certainly a good looking example there.

Morat wrote:

Good point but from a cold start everything is at ambient anyway so the heater plate isn't going to make a difference.

As long as the holes have been filled if its been removed. Aargon discovered that after removing his (as mentioned above by Richard, and the reason I mentioned it as well, as I remember it taking him ages to find the cause of his problem. If i remember correctly he only found it by filling the manifold with smoke to see where it leaked out)

Its 11:49pm here as I write this now if that helps. Not sure what timestamp your seeing on the posts? For me its not adjusting to BST so showing an hour behind the actual time here (in the UK)

dhallworth wrote:

Thanks both. Have got the diagrams downloaded now. Shame the installation instructions are in Italian though! Hopefully I can remember where things go anyway :)

David.

Scroll further down and you will find the English after the Italian. Thats the case with a lot of the AEB based manuals. Page 16 of the pdf onwards is English.

dhallworth wrote:

I keep making myself more work on this car...

The steering box has been removed due to the leak, I bought one on eBay to fit to the car so that I can just get it finished and I can rebuilt this one at my leisure with a new seal if it's ok once I've stripped it down and checked it.

I was thinking about this VSE earlier and remembered that it took an awful long time for it to warm up and switch to LPG. Looking at the setup today I decided to make a load of changes. The LPG ECU was mounted on a bracket mounted to the top of the drivers side shock absorber mounting and the reducer was mounted onto the other side of the car.

The installation looked a mess as all of the wiring was tied to the bulkhead and I didn't like it.

Today I've removed all of the LPG wiring, relocated the ECU into the empty box behind the battery (where the ECU sits on a GEMS car), relocated the bracket for the vaporiser to the drivers side shock mount, and started to tidy everything up. This has massively reduced the length of the coolant pipes as they no longer have to run the width of the bulkhead to get to the reducer and it keeps a lot of the LPG wiring hidden under the battery cover when it's fitted.

My other VSE has the gas installed in a similar manner and it looks much tidier under the bonnet.

Annoyingly, moving the reducer to the other side means I need to reroute the LPG pipe from the tank as it runs down the NS chassis leg. To do that, I'm going to have to rotate the tank around 90 degrees too but it'll be worth it when it's finished. Looking at the pipe from the tank to the engine bay today I noticed there's a union joining the pipe under the B pillar of the car. It probably isn't an issue but I'd rather it was one piece from front to back so I've ordered 6 metres of pipe, some P clips and some tech screws to mount it.

The reducer is covered in coolant stains and looks awful, I've tried rebuilding these before and have never had good results so I'm going to replace it whilst I'm at it.

The ECU has REG by OMVL written on the front of it. On the label it's got DREAM XXI-P. I don't suppose anybody knows where I can get a manual/wiring diagram for this setup?

Thanks,
David.

Wiring diagram is included with the software download - which you can get from https://www.lpgshop.co.uk/lpg-diagnostic-software/

This should be the one you want
OMVL Dream XXI P Diagnostic Software: Dream XXI-P 2.3.00.zip[21.8MB]

https://www.lpgshop.co.uk/content/downloads/OMVL/Dream%20XXI-P%202.3.00.zip
StrangeRover wrote:

At the risk of being lynched..

How about removing the system altogether?

"dons tin hat"

Still not got yours fixed I guess?

Edit - just realised Richard posted the download above but I missed his reply.