Cps would cause lack of sparks and fuel if it failed, though sometimes they start to play up before failing completely. Not sure if you'd get a fault code for it (other vehicles i've had typically don't throw a code when its failed, they just die or fail to start).

Have you checked for a decent flow of fuel coming though? Either a blocked up filter or a pump thats on its way out would be possible causes I'd think?

Might be worth trying without the MAF connected, Have you removed the throttle heater plate that likes to leak?

Would also be a good idea to confirm what "it" is - I'd guess from your posts a GEMS is what you have?

Its also possible its just an unintended bug, and its reading something (or displaying something) that isn't really valid. I've known other vehicles to read voltages incorrectly (showing 17v when a multimeter will show its operating normally etc).

Is the hawkeye upto date as far as software is concerned? If its like the nanocom, it may be worth posting a query on their forum to get an answer. Otherwise try it on another diesel and see if it does the same thing if you have that option?

Gilbertd wrote:

I agree that the 1/2" breaker bars flex so you're not applying all the force to the nuts. That's the advantage with the one I use, no flex at all.

I've got both and would say the same, plus the angle of the extendable type gets you a better hold on the wheel nuts as it doesn't pivot. The extendable ones are usually the ones I keep in the boot incase of needing to change one at the side of the road

Some tyre places seem a lot better at doing things the right way than others are, the place I usually use will take them off with the impact gun, but put them back on with a normal socket then final tighten with the torque wrench. They also seem to do a better job at putting tyres on than other places I've used, some of which seem to believe lots of sealant will work on dirty/rusty rims

I've got a V8 Disco 2, and have ridden in the TD5 one and found the TD5 was much noiser and seemed to need reving constantly to get it to go anywhere than the V8. Drives with a trailer on the back with no issue at all, nothing like the weight that Richard puts on it but its like theres nothing on the back unless you check in the mirror.

Rave shows the top cooler to be for the engine oil, and the lower one to be for the gearbox for post 99 v8 models. Not sure on the p38 but on the Disco 2 there are power steering pipes somewhere around that area, as the previous owner of mine had to replace one of those after it split, That to me would be more likely to produce black oil marks than anything else on a petrol. Also not a lot of ps fluid is needed to make a real mess around the engine bay area as it doesn't seem to disperse particually well.

I've driven past that and did wonder why that had been done, that suddenly makes sense.

The various tack marks to me look like what you might get from some of the dent repair techniques, I've seen a kit somewhere where you weld a rod to the dent, then use a slide hammer to pull it back out, and those marks look like what i'd expect from using it.

Depends which ones you buy, I received a set of the cork ones as well from somewhere, though didn't use them for obvious reasons (Britpart on the bag being part of the reason, plus I had got the rubber ones instead once I'd see what turned up). The rubber ones on mine had obviously gone bad, they had got that bad that the metal bits had dropped out of them and would stand straight if you held one end of them rather than flexing.

Unfortunately that depends on the sensor fitted, I remember when going to replace mine with a new one that the new sensor had a different Hex size to the one that was fitted. I don't remember it being particually difficult to find something to fit it though. Turned out on mine that the reason it was going to be replaced (leaking) was down to the previous owner not managing to do it up tightly enough.

Can't remember what I used at the time to do it up though, it may have been a stubby (short) spanner or a socket, 18mm comes to mind for some reason though.

Did you find out any clear source of the oil leak on there? The lubricated starter motor is a problem I've also got, suspect its the valley gasket in mine which is on the agenda to replace (its been purchased but haven't got round to actually fitting it yet). Its had new rocker cover gaskets which removed most of the leaks, but has started getting more noticable recently every time its been run for a few minutes.

The first car I had after passing my test, one of my mates decided to fiddle about with the cigerette lighter, and decided it didn't work as it popped out too quickly. To prove it didn't work he put his finger on the end. The sizzling and resulting smell proved that actually it did work. He decided to leave it alone after that. But did spend the next couple of hours compaining about his burnt finger!

Forcing it to try and pump with solid desiccant isn't going to help though as pointed out above, and will cause it to get hot very quickly. Worth checking as pointed out further up the thread. A new pump isn't going to help if thats the problem.

The bit you want from Rave are these 4 pages
Rave Extract

If you pm me your email, I can email it across directly if you want. Its section 76 Chassis and Body that you want.

I've no idea what fold drilling pin out means, I suspect its a typo/autocorrect sabotage. (Maybe fold should have said folk?)

I know when I changed the rear door locks on the Disco 2, you had to take the upper window frame out to do it. I've no idea if the p38 is the same as I've not got one here to look at.

This thread might help if you ignore the bits about plasterboard > https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1036-a-bit-of-a-list?page=1.0#pid16079

Took so long finding it that Morat already posted, but worth a read anyway.

I think these are the ones Richard has said hes sent to Clarion for a refurb and as part of that they remove the code if thats any help. Also allows adding a line-in connection if so desired.

The decoder I have is part of a multipack one for various ones, very dated now though, the website associated with the software (rampantapathy.co.uk) no longer works though its partly accessible via the wayback machine. Doesn't really matter now as the software clearly isn't correct for the P38 units.

Holland-and-Holland wrote:

Brian,
This is the correct code for another Diversity Radio I have.
Serial: CR0154S0007364
Code: 3144

Doesn't look promising as it doesn't seem to match that one

romanrob wrote:

On the actual HU?

All 3 of these have a bar code below them, on one sticker:
Job no 0140839
Serial no 0017787
Product code PU9836A

Mine says it is a remanufactured unit, but it does use the pin which appears on the security card which (surprisingly) looks original. PM me and I'll tell you if you got it right : o)

I've pm'ed you based on that serial number, see what you come back with

I've got a decoder for clarion series, but no idea if it works for the p38 one. Can try it with a known one if someone can provide the following info from theirs with a known code
"Enter the last 4 digits of lower barcode into the yellow box then press the calculate button."

It has to be run in a VM as most AV software doesn't like that sort of software, but if its any good can drop you a copy of it across if wanted.

That mess was causing many problems - doors that wouldn't stay locked, dashboard lights to come on with the brakes, radio not receiving an aerial signal, rear heated screen not working amongest them, and thats just the ones I'd noticed. I ended up chopping that section of the loom out completely and replacing the lot to avoid having to go back in there again soon. A known issue place on the vehicle in question (Ford Galaxy) but that particular hatchet job done by someone prior to my ownership was a particularly bad piece of bodgery.

Not a P38, or even a Land Rover, but this attempt at fixing damaged cables with a combination of earth sleeving, terminal blocks and bathroom silicon didn't even work properly. And melting the gaiter in the process to top it off wasn't particually helpful either

Morat wrote:

500 miles per oil change/filter? That's really nothing at all!

I wonder if thats a typo, as that oil doesn't look to me like its only done 500 miles. Maybe thats just petrol usage rather than LPG though.