To some degree the thinner oil is for emissions purposes - I suspect partly as stated above for fuel economy reasons, but also thinner oil should be easiler for the oil control rings to scrape off effectively, preventing it being burnt in the cylinder. Of course the flip side to that would be that it also isn't doing the job its wanted to do so well in the same cylinder, but that may not be taken into account (or a concern for them) by those that specify it for other reasons.
The rubber think looks like something I've seen before, Something says to me the scuttle area (where the wiper mechanism sits) is where i've seen it, although thats on a Disco 2, rather than p38. That said, alot of the same bits exist on both though. Wonder if it could have been dropped in when the pollen filter was out at some point?
Can be had from ECP for £43.99 with the current discount code for 4 litres. You'd probabbly find it cheaper elsewhere if you looked around enough.
https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/castrol-edge-fst-engine-oil-10w-60-4ltr-521770981
Gilbertd wrote:
It would appear that the prize goes to Brian. Disconnected one end of the steering damper, wound it lock to lock a couple of times and no noise. Sprayed the damper with white grease, worked it from end to end a few times, reconnected it, tried it again and still no noise. So to be absolutely sure I need to drive it a bit but it has at least reduced it.
Sounds like a result if thats sorted it, I'd guess with it being sat for a while it might have needed a bit of help. Was thinking it was easy to rule out when I suggested it as its easy to get to.
Have you ruled out the steering damper? Or does the noise seem higher up?
I think the MAF is more critical on the diesel models for this than the V8. You can usually tell if the MAF is playing up by monitoring the fuel trims on nano if you have it. Bear in mind that your attempts to get the LPG to work again might also be playing around with the trims though if something else is still wrong there.
Might also be worth rechecking the fluid level. From what I remember (the proper procedure is in RAVE somewhere, I'd review that and follow it rather than my description) you need to fill it up till it runs out of the filler plug, then run it through each gear position with your foot on the brake (engine running), put it back to (neutral i think?) and then top up again till it runs out of the filler plug, and put the plug back in. Thats for the models without dipstick, which yours should be given its a Thor 2001?
When you changed fluid, did you drop the sump and change the filter or just drain the fluid and refill? Fairly sure I've seen someone on here find the pickup pipe inside thats bolted to it, was in poor state and the cause of issues when they did theirs, but you'd have noticed it when you had it apart if you did.
Get your LPG working! will be cheaper still!
Good luck getting someone to unblock your drains with that stuff down them!
@LPGC I'd think so, annoyingly the job on the way to the Edinburgh job, in York tomorrow has been cancelled. Can't really do my work from home (Sadly!) Much like yourself, no work means no pay either.
On the other side of things, I'm currently planned to drive to Edinburgh tomorrow....
gordonjcp wrote:
Why would you panic-buy bog roll when you can shoplift the Daily Mail? Of course you're risking catching its arse cancer...
Its already covered in the stuff you want to wipe away, so I'm not sure it would be very effective. Though you could of course take it back and say its full of it, which would be doubley true.
Deliveries wise - try getting a slot booked, if you can even get onto the website for some of them, last time i looked to book a shopping delivery on Tuesday, the first available slots were Sunday evening.
Speaking to someone yesterday, his wife had gone shopping in Aldi to pickup a pack of bog rolls, and they had gone upto £7 for 9 apparantly.
Sticking it on the highest setting would seem sensible, as it should at least allow any small debris to dry up and hopefully fall off where it wouldn't be a problem.
BrianH wrote:
Of course, if its also full of radweld that won't help either
I don't like the stuff. I'm sure it's useful somehow, but it isn't likely to exactly improve the coolant flow and if it's leaking badly enough to need it then it's not liable to work anyway. The GEMS gets a regular replacement of standard blue 50/50 - think I'd rather find and source a leak than mask it tbh. I do need to replace all the hoses which are sitting in a box waiting. Current project is looking at the water getting in (well, showing up) at low level in the boot. Got the rear carpet and insulation out at the moment - it's surprising how much can be accessed like that.
Me neither - I've seen someone try to use it to fix a leaking waterpump on a BMW, that lasted for about 6 months till the pulley snapped off the waterpump when it seized up. The TD5 Disco me and a mate looked at for someone he knew, had been fed a heavy diet of radweld or similar to try and sort it loosing coolant. The reason that was losing coolant was a leaky waterpump again, but fixing that only made it obvious that the head gasket had blown as a result of repeated overheating due to the leaky waterpump, It knackered the radiator as well, as it was significently blocked up when we investigated it. Plus I've never known it to actually work to cure a noticable leak.
i think, from what we could see that the thermostat shuts off one flow and opens the other, so drilling is unlikely to help as much as you'd hope/think. The angled feed off the top of the stat, wants to go towards the engine/water pump, the one that feeds from the T-piece pipe on the top, wants to go the the straight connection. If thats wrong (even with no real stat in place) you don't get any flow though the radiator and hence overheating issues as soon as you try to push it in any way.
Of course, if its also full of radweld that won't help either
What you can find with the Bosch setup, is that the themostat can be connected incorrectly. Theres a diagram of the coolant flow in RAVE that shows how it should go, but if the pipes on the top have been swapped over (as mine had when I first got it) you will get problems as the water doesn't actually get to the radiator when it should do, and you end up with the ends of the rad getting hot, but none of the rest of it. We only discovered it by luck as the previous owner had been clearly been messing with it, after we replaced the radiator to try and sort it and the thermostat (after discovering the original one was a thermostat housing with most of the guts removed, but the metal disc part still there) to find it was still overheating. was usually fine prior to that as long as you didn't drive it above 60, though it had its moments of random overheating with no real pattern beyond lifting foot off the gas was enough to put the light back out.
From memory, the way the plumbing works isn't quite how you'd expect, and effectively the thermostat opening allows flow out of the bottom of the radiator rather than opening the input to the radiator. This isn't obvious unitl you actually see the diagram which shows where the flow is directed.
Gems might be the same, don't know on that for sure.
DHL do that to me frequently with ECP - tell you its being delivered tomorrow, only to tell me then its either been delivered, or is out for delivery Today. Only ever seems to happen with ECP though.
Now all you need is a Lexus to fit all those spare filters to.
That drive to and from Boston seems to take forever when I've had to do it as well. Like it used to be to drive out on the A11 to Norwich when it used to go through the middle of Elveden.
Your best bet if thats Microcat you mean, is to install vmware player and then install windows XP inside that vm. Unless you have access to a computer already running XP that is. Anything much newer (definitely if its 64bit) doesn't want to play with it.
So they are blaming themselves really, since they actually own Crosland. Hence why their own website https://croslandfilters.com/ says "Crosland Filters exclusively distributed by Euro Car Parts"
Still sounds like you got a bargain out of them for putting up with the delay.
Morat wrote:
IMO we should use the method they have in NZ (I Think?) where insurance is bought by the government and paid by a levy on fuel. I think it's quite a neat system in that it incentivises people to burn less fuel* and there's no faffing around with individual policies which are a very expensive mountain of red tape.
*Or at least, the people who burn most fuel covering more distance, faster pay the most for their insurance.
The downside to that, is it doesn't penalise anyone who drives like a complete incompent twat who can't park without hitting stuff though. As theres no incentive for them to improve if they are already driving a wreck its hardly going to matter if it picks up a few more dents and scrapes.