Didn't you get all this last year when the first date was decided on? Mine sent out info then saying about the green cards but covered it with enough to say if you might need one, try to give as much notice as possible
We did also get it open from inside, missed that bit of the original question. Open boot, put seats down, open back door which was locked then open front from inner handle
davew wrote:
Does it open OK from inside Brian ?
-if not it sounds like a 'Superlocking' scenario; Frank has the original 'brabyn' files on this for reference if not familiar..
It did seem like a super locking issue to me, we managed to get in through the boot in the end and work from there. Personally I think snipping the super locking door wires would be a wise idea and have recommended he looks on here as I know it's been posted about before. It also looks to me like the door latch in the drivers door has a dodgy switch, as it sometimes registered, but not every time by the looks of what we could see.
Cheers for the instructions Richard, took a couple of goes to get the right sequence but got there in the end and at least Frank can now drive it and lock off the key only until he gets it fixed.
Any thoughts on the door handle not allowing us to open the door? Trying to unlock causes the button to pop up, but the door will not open from outside?
Gilbertd wrote:
BrianH wrote:
Good quality Britpart is that even a thing?
He thought it was so insisted on using nothing but. When I bought the Classic it did need a few bits and pieces doing to it and half of them involved replacing Britpart bits with real ones.......
At least Britpart don't make engine oil
I've tend to use Bosch on pretty much everything. Only once has that been a problem as the filter would not fit, and that was on a Vauxhall Astravan. Mostly as it looked like the best option at ECP brand wise.
Good quality Britpart is that even a thing?
There are some utter crap ones out there - if you haven't seen it, this is worth a watch when you have some minutes to kill.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTNJLEV8CG8
Given the Fram is the second cheapest out of the options on ECP, it makes you wonder how bad the Crosland ones might be.
Offer is still there if Wednesday works for you, unless Morat can manage to get to you instead at a more suitable time.
Well if it helps, Can see what can be arranged if Frank is available, seems fairly straightforward there.
Would I also be right in thinking you can test the door lock switches with Nanocom? Though probabbly little point as it sounds like we already know they are a problem anyway.
I've got the p38 systems license and the Thor license on mine, not the GEMS though. Which I don't think would matter for the bits above anyway.
What actually needs doing with a Nanocom if one is available? I'm in Huddersfield next Wednesday which isn't that far away?
Morat wrote:
Sloth wrote:
Sounds about right for a setup where they are all switched on at the same time. Some newer cars pulse them individually, which had me really confused how they were getting away with a weedy main feed to the control unit until I worked it out.
What is the advantage in that? Surely it just means that it takes longer to heat all the cylinders? Or do they shove $MANY_AMPS down each one for a very short time?
Thick wire is more expensive, and if your producing thousands of them it makes a difference.
Lower current draw on the battery probabbly a good thing as well, given you'd be pulling loads out to run the starter afterwards. Might be just enough to make the battery last a bit longer or manage to start when it otherwise wouldn't.
Dielectric grease is sometimes recommended, though I've never bothered. Couple of times I've found white deposits in the plug leads. Some leads I've fitted have come with a tiny sachet of grease. I think the idea is you apply it to provide a barrier though its never been very clear which bit you should be applying it to. If you got 5 years out of them, I'd think you were doing ok personally.
Harv wrote:
Brian, I think BBS has sorted out their payment options now. I attempted to buy a Nano a little over two years ago when I first got my P38, but abandoned the idea due to this issue. This past November I tried again and got a Nano Evo. They take PayPal and MasterCard like everyone else.
That would be most welcome, the last order I did with them required a bank transfer to an international account, which got me charged something like £9.50 ontop by the bank. Previous order to that was a transfer to a UK account, which at least didn't cost extra.
You can add a license to it though, if it was needed. Just a shame the payment methods Blackbox use are stuck somewhere in the last century compared to the rest of the internet and hence add additional costs now.
Not specifically for EAS, but Rimmer Bros tend to be quite good for stuff thats sometimes a bit more difficult to find as well.
Gilbertd wrote:
Edited to say that I've just seen your identical post on the other side and you are in the UK (I'm Richard_G over there). That's a good start, what sort of are in case someone has experience locally (and won't tell you to rip it out and fit bits of bent wire instead).
I think the mangled bit in the middle of this was supposed to ask whereabouts in the UK are you? As someone else on here may be close to you.
Or people have gone and had a look and told him to forget it?
The most likely problem there is that the switches in the door lock are playing up, so when your entering the EKA its not registering the correct number on each attempt.
There is a table in Rave that tells you what combinations of the various switches inside give each gear display. My guess would be one of them isn't working as well as it should do anymore. Possibly down to it being full of crud that you may get away with cleaning out, mine I found one of the contacts had lost its springy action and wouldn't reliably select drive as a result, leaving it with a combination of refusing to start at all, and going into limp randomly which gives you only 3rd gear to use
The part your looking for will look either like this one, or similar
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-rover-p38-xyz-switch-grey-plug/274091850407?hash=item3fd125baa7:g:ii0AAOSwj85YRHeF
You might find a repair service for the one you have - here is one example though its for a Disco rather than p38 so you'd need to identify your switch first to see
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REFURB-SERVICE-discovery-2-xyz-switch-/362520920489?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
Its a little fiddly to remove, but not too bad, the suggestion of getting another one whilst you fix yours isn't a bad idea though so you can keep the car able to move.
If its leaking coolant from the vapouriser, theres every chance its also leaking coolant directly into the intake manifold via the vacuum connection. IT would still be able to do so whilst running on petrol as that side of the system is not shut off when its on petrol (as if its working properly all it should be doing is pulling on the diapgraghm so no problem there).
All the other leaks to me suggest you have too much pressure in the cooling system for some reason - this can be down to gas leaking from the vapouriser into the coolant.
If you want to test that further, bypass the vapouriser on the water circuit (connect the two coolant hoses running together to each other) and run it on petrol.
Best hope Simon doesn't see you say that, he will be calling you a Nesh