Aha, I knew there was something useless about them, it only becomes handy when the rod from the handle has fallen off but then again there are other doors to get in.
Thanks for the correction Richard.

I doubt that. Correct me if I'm wrong but if you go along the window down with a sawblade and press the lever the door pops open. Marty will know, he removes them when refurbishing the latches.

The way the rockers look is a good sign of what to expect further inside the engine OB, it says it has had it's intervals of fresh oil and not running hot, given the fact it runs on LPG.
The fact it is filthy outside does not automatically imply it is not taken care for. Looks good!

Vancer one Q comes up, you are on a breakeryard so you want a certain item and the breaker (I suppose) wants to sell that to you, but he won't let you have access to the vehicle. I don't get it.

So every P38 is behaving different when it comes to heating then...
Starting from cold I'm getting warm air (from when available) at my feet and face, when the interior reaches set temp (on auto) the blower slows down and it looks like the facevent is a bit cooler than feetvent. When shutting off for a quick shopvisit and continue in, say 5 minutes, it starts blowing cool at feet and face, blower speed rises and it takes another 5 minutes before things are normal again. I think these cars are like human.

This is just what I mean, apart from the smear. Must be possible to have it fabricated for not too much money, question is will it affect the overall volume of the plenum, I mean fuel mappingwise (I don't think so). Instead of the silicone you could use two steel gaskets. (We did not have a meeting isn't it to come up with the same idea ha ha)

Good to hear Spiggy, about the holes in the banana's, if he knows his job (no doubt) he tries to keep the tubes as short as possible. Mine are all about 28-30 cm long.
I was thinking (if you know a machineshop who can do it) about fabricating a aluminium spacer of about 1 cm thick between upper and lower plenum/inlet manifold so you can put the injectorrails on either side of the rockercovers (shorter tubes), use the steel gasket as a template. But that is for later, it was just an idea.

I go with you OS, at our age one step at the time should do it.

Morat wrote:

I agree, it really should be standard.

Or convince those Brits to move to the other side of the road (like Sweden in the sixties)

Thanks! PM sent.

Aha, that is another solution, painting the area to be covered. The dutch ANWB (AA) sells stickers for those who go to Britain, they don't have permanent life either.
I remember my '65 ish Peugeot 404 had Marchal lamps with a notch you could move to change the lightpattern. Comfy car that was.

Orangebean wrote:

If you're lucky Tony, you can stick the VIN into Microcat and it'll give you all the build and trim options fitted.
Any of the online decoders will give you the basics that you already know!
http://www.vindecoderz.com/ for instance

Vindecoderz only comes up with the year of built and type of engine (I knew that already), estimated mileage (259.000 km, wrong it's 190.000 km) and an invitation to pay for more info.
I don't have Microcat, but can a dealer supply this info if I pretend to have lost my EKA? (Which I haven't)

That is something different from the Classic days, if you wanted a CSK badge you had to show your VIN.
How do I find out the origins of mine? Also by VIN somewhere?

A good match Richard, the black grille and bumpers compared to the white body. In general I'm not a fan of white cars, except weddingcars, but this is looking good.
It proves that a P38 can have a reliable second life, new motor, respray and still used for business.
You are on your way already, in case you wonder why upcoming cars flash at you, its the tape missing on your left headlight. :)

Fitted the Intermotor leads, what a difference! No more misfires, on petrol it is really sportish, from a trafficlight it pulls away without hesitation. On LPG it is somewhat sluggish, I think it is too lean. Will have that adjusted next week.

BTW my post about ordering the leadset was dec. 5, today UPS at the door from Island 4x4. Fast isn't it?

That's what it is. When working outside I secured the bonnet with a small rope from bonnetcatch to tailgatehinge, you don't want the wind smash the bonnet on your back.
Also, when the bonnethinges are worn the bonnet might touch the windscreen in the middle, therefore I did not open the bonnet all the way over the top but let it hang in the rope.

I know this is not a special LR tool but it works.

It looks worse than it is, first time I did the job I opened the hood all the way up and could see the bolts from above, sitting on my knees on the slampanel.
Provided that there is no extra gear in the way (lpg hoses). Once you have done that it is easy peasy, just don't lose the lower bolts, therefore keep them in a few turns.

Mark for the coilpackbolts (8mm) it is best to use a ¼" ratchet set, there are two bolts (1 on each side of the packs) down in the lower inletmanifold (which you just loosen them a few turns) and 2 others to take out from top of the coils mounted in the bananas. This way you can lean the pack a bit backwards to slide the bananas from underneath. Remove the 4 studs and the 2 bolts front and rear in the middle of the bananas, lift the plenum about 1 cm to get free of the dowels front and rear.

Thanks guys, the leadset is obvious, I was just wondering how to know when a coilpack is coming to it's end. I think it's all or nothing at all. Nothing in between.
I'll order a new leadset. I like the partname for a change :)

I'm struggling with some misfiring, on LPG but on petrol too. I still have the bog standard grey cables (yes OB, I've seen your jealous making red box of Magnecors) and the standard NGK plugs. Pushing some caps firm on the plugs makes it better so I guess I need a new set.

But since I have no diagnostics and wanted to know which lead it is I did some digging in my toolbox and found my old xenon timinglight and clamped the sensor to each lead, one by one to find the one that did not light up, that is lead #8 and #4, not all the time but now and then. I also noticed that not all the leads flash in the 'double tempo' (wasted spark) but in the normal single tempo, does this mean that the coils are on their way out and what leads should I buy except Magnecors?