Looks good! That will be a members competition then for Marty's workshop ;)
OB that is a very interesting read about toothchains (they did something good at LR), as they are based in Gronau (a few kms from the Dutch border) I will mail them for a Dutch translation because I want to read it very carefully.
I've made some pictures the chainslop with old original sprocket and new aftermarket sprocket:
Old:
New:
I have placed the sprocket next to eachother on the vice, the newer is 1.5 mm smaller in overall diameter! Hurray for aftermarket.
Thanks Richard for the correction, I love these different measuring standards. My reason for asking is that a given value in Nm is far more precise than "two times 90º" especially from a low rate like 20 Nm. You have told us many times about the disadvantages of stretchbolts but I can't take responsability from the cost of ARP's. When DHL comes at the door there is someone with an axe behind me.
So no Marty I don't have the ARP's, as Richard cleared in posts 84/85 in your buildthread. Besides, the ARP's have a finer thread on top of the stud than on the bottom that goes into the block so one cannot compare the torquevalues. I whish I had access to a lab where they can find out the true difference in pressure, regarding the 90/90 way and a certain value in Nm.
Thank you OB for clearing things, I was mislead by the way conrods have the 'dot' in different positions on left and right bank, while the pistons are arways 'dotted' to front of engine. I installed the rings at 120º interval.
I did not measure the endplay of the cam with the old thrustplate because it has some signs of wear on the frontside, where the sprocketboss meets and thought better buy new. Only original LR available, what can go wrong. The 'new' aftermarket sprocket has a bit thinner boss and explains the wider play. I have placed old LR sprocket upon the new aftermarket sprocket and cannot discover any wear of the teeth, so I'll use it again. What you say about slop in a chain being eliminated by cntrifugal force is new to me, I can imagine it but always thought it was not recommended.
Next is heads on, I have read in a different thread you can replace the 20Nm 90/90 sequence for 3 stages to 80 Nm (using stretchbolts). Was'nt from you I guess but what do you think?
I didn't remove it from the axle myself, this is the way I got it. No chips found, the black is muck in the botttom of the grooves, partially wiped off. I could not find any broken bits.
Got this front diff from a breaker for very few €€. I know it is hard to judge from two piccys but what do you guys think, is it worth keeping it?
Fitting pistons. From the text in the manual it is still not clear to me where to position the ring gaps, "position compressionrings with gaps on opposite side of pistion between gudgeon pin and RH side of piston- viewed from front of piston". This should mean that one gap comes on the LH side of piston?
As for the cam gear I use the old camsprocket again wit a new chain (I know I know, should not mix old with new) for the following reason: half a year ago I bought a new set of sprockets and chain so I thought I gould use it again with the new cam. Bought a new thrustwasher (only original LR available) and measured the axial play of the cam with the 'new' sprocket with my feelergauge, it was 0.5 mm which is too much. With the old sprocket I measured 0.25 mm so the old sprocket it's gonna be, even the chain is not sloppy with it.
Thank yo OB and OS for your replies. As I'm not familiar with the plastigauge thing and don't own a micrometer to check for straightnes I called the guy of the shop. He told me the same things as you did OB but hey I wanted to do it myself and didn't hand him over my crank. But, he said, turn them all loose and tighten to 5 Nm., give the crank on both ends a good smack with a nylon hammer and retorque to specs in 3 stages, which I did (and borrowed a better quality T-wrench). Presto, when finished I can turn it by hand.
His norm for drag is put the torquewrench horizontally on the pulleybolt and is has to lower by it's own weight. Which it does. Thanks guys.
A question about torquesettings, how much drag may the crank have when new bearings are installed? I installed the crank today, after liberally lubing everything with the stuff shown above, torqueing it all by the book (72 Nm capbolts, 92 Nm rear end capbolts and 45 Nm cap sidebolts) I can not turn the crank anymore, At least not by hand. When I torque the capbolts to 60 Nm and rear cap to 70 Nm I can barely spin the crank by pushing firmly the balanceweights.
Is my T-wrench not giving the right torque (a 60 euro's micrometer-style wrench), can I do with a lesser value? How much drag is allowed?
Looks good Marty, indeed putting things together is a fraction of the time compared to preparation. As they say, preparation is half the job.
About the retorqueing, I don't know. What I always encounter is when following the right sequence, after the last bolt you think you're done, try the first one again and you will be able to turn it a bit again with the same force. Strange.
Martyuk wrote:
Yeah.... it's nice working with new things for a change... I'll almost be sorry to put it in the RR where I can't always look at it in it's full glory...
Thinking about glass rockercovers, same time a nice check for lubrication while running :)
Got a call from the shop the block is ready to pick up so I drove up there. Here she is, waiting on the trolley. Ah there he comes with one of the heads just finished skimming and washing.
The guy started his business only a year ago with a friend, here's an overview of his modest shop.
Gilbert wanted more porn from Marty's thread, here is a view from under the skirt. (I wanted to know how the base of the liners were done)
Back on my own bench, tomorrow time for the crank to go in.
It looks like the brim of the liner is a bit smaller than I saw on Marty's engine, at least there seems to be more space between the liners on the deck.
I asked him what to use as assembly lubricant and he showed me this bottle. "You may have it, put it in your pocket". Just an idea how the guy works.
RutlandRover wrote:
My passenger side footwell is completely sodden with clear water at the moment. Need to find a way to dry it out.
It's not just the carpet, the rubber insulation undrneath almost does not dry. Try to get some (don't now the English for it) carpet that soaks oil, often used in garages. Place it under the carpet and it soaks most of the moisture.
Another thing to consider, how's the rest of the hub, in particular where the abs sensor is seated. When it's a rusty mess you might have problems to replace it.
Buying a complete set it far easier instead of heating the lot when pressing the bearing out and no risk of damage when pressing the new bearing into a rusty hub. But when budget dictates it is very well doable.
You beat me with that, I'm out of creativity.
As Chris says, try to make the pedestals fit, you might even ream them a bit. After all there is no movement between shaft and pedestals after install. It's always a problem when having an assembly (rockers) of different aftermarket makers.
As for the SS bolts be careful to avoid reaction with aluminium, Best way for not getting rust is a leaky engine ha ha.
Can't you lift a sillbutton from the inside of a superlocked car? That means that you can lock in people and no way to get out? I don't believe that.
As you discribe it the wiring is a mess, seats don't move etc. Maybe you can Houdini-wise unbolt a chair from the rails to get to the BeCM and ask Marty to reprogram it as 'open' (when possible), as soon as you connect it again the car should return to it's last state, = open. I may be talking nuts but my imagination tells me so. Just trying to avoid the last option, the can of fuel and the box of matches.
Must be fun working on this one...
A beauty it is Marty! You did a perfect paintjob aswell. Maybe it is an idea when placing the cam you can temporary mount the sprocket for exact control of movement when sliding in. Looks great!
Than the only way to get in is by the tailgate. Do you have 12Volts? Behind the right-rear bumper there is a loom with 6 white wires coming from the front doorlatch, one of them provides ground to the button of the tailgate. Take a stanleyknife and wire that to ground, have someone push the button while you cut the insulation of those wires one by one, as soon as you hit the right groundwire the lock pops open and you're in. Crawl to the driversdoor and lift the sillbutton, pull doorhandle.
no10chris wrote:
Problem I have is cars up against a fence, and can't open the doors, might investigate getting the door panel off, fingers crossed
No need to take the doorcard off, if you unscrew the torx bolt in the side of the door that holds the dooorhandle (leave the bolt one or two turns in the handle, the spacer might fall down) and pull the doorhandle a bit out you must see two rods, one from the actual doorhandle to the lock and one from the barrel to the lock. If the last one is missing it is probably bunging on the lock. This is the one that is needed for entering EKA code.