How about the little rod connecting the barrel with the lock? It's only a tiny little spring that holds it in place and might fall off. Then you can turn the key whatever you want but nothing happens.
Well Chris you know who's leading here when it comes to locks, wait for his reply. Seems to me the EKA is needed (fully charged battery first) and is it the correct EKA code? Let the owner verify at the dealer. Seems the battery has drained in locked mode. Plus, are the microswitches in the driversdoor working? Not much but all I can say.
Tony.
Got it Gordon, you answered my PM and no prob from here.
About getting more visitors, I imagine some P38 owner is a bit fed up with his poor mileage and googles 'Range Rover thirsty', no wonder Google comes up with RangeRovers.pub...
Tony.
That's the way I'll do it, have a helper turning the key so I can check if the pushrods etc. are seated correctly while dancing up and down. Or check again the torque on the pedestals after a few turns.
And yes, (sorry to overlook the question)if the heads are on it is done without sparkplugs, you could also pull the fuelpumprelay to prevent drowning.
Martyuk wrote:
Do you have to spin it over without the plugs, or is it just easier to pull the fuse/plugs on ignition coils and spin it on the starter so it can't spark and fire up?
All I want is eliminate the airlock in the suctionline in the sump when first starting with new bearings and an empty block. I think spinning it by the startermotor goes too slow to overcome the airlock, I was playing with the idea to do it faster with a drill so it could pump up the oil without the stress of combustion. If I see oil in the tappetgallery it's good enough for me and am at rest that the oilways are filled. But maybe I am too careful when it is all lubed in advance with special treatments.
It came to mind because a friend of mine is a plasterer, he has a giant 2 speed drill to mix his stucco in a tub. But might be better to wait and turn the key with plugs out...
mrabody wrote:
I'll finally have a useable Range Rover again.
Time to make a donation to this forum? ;)
I've heard somewhere that Marty also knows how to use a sledgehammer...
Thanks OB for the link, I'll see what I can buy here, since I did not buy the Piper (false economy?) I have to look for it myself. I will follow your advice in lubing the cylinderwalls, I had a chat with the guy who does the block, I can pick it up by monday and he will wait with the heads to skim until I come to pick them up. He says because he will wash the heads when he is finished and there will be no chance for rust on the valve stems/guides. A serious guy I think.
As for the priming I thought about fitting the sump already in the stand, fill it with oil and prime the block by turning the crank for a while by hand (drill), heads off until the oil comes up in the lifter gallery. A Classic was easier to prime indeed, I still have my 3.9 Special Priming tool ha ha.
Sorry to hear that the guys who did your heads have dissappointed you, especially when you payd a fair amount of money. Put them on the blacklist! About painting the sump, does it inflluence the cooling when the surface becomes that smooth? I know from my motorcycle-time the rough surface of a sump has a function (again: the Gems has a steel pan so I might be wrong in that). What lube/paste can be used for first install of the cam, in my case cam and crank? I've seen a vid on youtube where the guy uses some graphite smear. Pretty important as Chris states too for first run-in.
Is the outletspout that rusty? I've read that they are a pain to remove. As for the vac's, is a T piece an option?
Still can hear The Fortunes, in the Amsterdam docks we have our Veronica
Ha Ha, that's the Mi Amigo, 199 Radio Caroline.
No I'm sorry, doesn't ring a bell. Did a search, this is the one that comes up:
Richard by that time we were involved in a hydrofoilproject for a fast ferrieconnection Amsterdam-IJmuiden if that's what you mean. We knew they were for sale in Riga and we worked out a businessplan, I even did a testrun on the IJsselmeer with such hydrofoil, capable of 80 passengers and equipped with two Russian aluminium V8 engines. A private party went away with the plan though, probably faster decisionmakers.
Thank you Gordon, if not I'll accept the punishment.
It doesn't have tappets though, all manually adjusted on top of the rockers. When adjusting the engine must be cold and set the play at a certain value. These massive heaps of steel stretch a lot at different temperatures, therefore the operating temperature is set at 55ºC. They were used for the long haul, towing dredgers from Japan to the US, crossing the Pacific with an average speed of 5 knots...
The is a sistership also, the former Clyde now rebuild as a yacht. There is a vid 'Elbe meets Clyde' on youtube when they met in Rotterdam.
As my username suggests, I have my background in shipping. Started my professional life on the river Rhine as a deckhand, later first mate and captain. Later in service of the city of Amsterdam (portauthority, ferries). I worked with several engines of that time and still have a weak spot on them.
Last weekend I had the opportunity to join on a trip with the tugboat Elbe, formerly owned by Smit tugs in Rotterdam. The boat was first in service in 1958, later sold to the US Coastguard, later to Greenpeace and since a few years back home as active museumship.
With the help of many volunteers the ship has returned in it's original state including the original engines. It is driven by two 6cylinder Smit-M.A.N. engines of 1750Hp each. The two engines are connected to a shared transferbox, from there a single propellorshaft is driven.
The two engines can be engaged or disengaged via a pneumatic clutch, each engine can be started in forward or reverse. When manouvering there is one engine running forward and the other in reverse, whatever is needed the respective clutch is engaged. Once out on the trip both engines can be started forward to get the full 3500 Hp.
When not pulling the ship sails on one engine, for obvious reasons. I made a short vid of the running engine (partly with my phone) to give you an idea of these engines of the '50s. I thought I might share my weak spot.
Marty your under-banana's install of the injectors was just what I had in mind when I did my LPG install, see my LPG install thread with the photo's. But I was not sure about the state of the LPG equipment to work, if at all and placing the injectors underneath means a double loom of wiring tucked away there too which makes troubleshooting a lot more difficult. Therefore I have put them on top, once up and running with the 'new' block I will put them there too.
One point of attention when drilling the nozzles into the inletmanifold is the access to the manifoldbolts. I have 4 bolts I cannot reach with a socket because of the nozzle next to it but need a ringspanner. When I turn them loose I can do a bit, lift the manifold a bit and unscrew the rest of the bolt. Can't reach them with the torquewrench either. Just a point, you want the nozzles as close to the petrolinjectors don't you.
BTW, it's a nice paintjob you did!