It's personal choice, but mine needed work on the heater flaps, motors, the temp sensor had failed and the O-rings were leaking. If you've got to go in there anyway, you may as well replace the heater matrix which is cheap and will be as gummed up as the engine radiator which probably should have been replaced by now on most P38s.
So do you go with stock or the Audi one? For me, the Audi option eliminates a known weakness with a simpler solution with less joints and potential leaks. It's pretty much impossible to re-use the rubber firewall grommet but otherwise I don't see any real downsides - as long as you use top quality hose.
Don't sell! Better the devil you know :)
Although, if you're secretly hankering after more problems to solve, I guess there's no rational argument for you to keep it.
Very interesting Marty. I've noticed the reverse behaviour to you - sometimes it will only lock after I press unlock. I thought that might be some way of preventing you from locking the keys in the car but thinking about it.. that makes no sense :)
I'll definitely take the tip on the tape round the bottom battery. Thank you.
I need gilbert to come buy with his work van to sniff the airwaves :)
that is pretty mysterious!
I'm going to change the batteries and cover/seal on the fob again and hope to maintain a constant contact. I've got some holiday coming up so I'll dig into the parcel shelf then and see what version of RF receiver she's got. I'm guessing it's the original or the PO would have told me about it.
There's a surprising amount of RF where we tend to park, I'm the local repeater for our Wireless ISP which isn't on 433MHz but I hear the earlier units don't discriminate too well.
At work, there's phone tower on the roof and loads of WiFi, plus various wireless alarm systems etc.
It sounds like there's more "investment" to be made!
He probably assumed it was an invitation to here....
Not that I care about RRTH at all. I never spent enough time on the other site to miss it. Thanks Richard :)
haha, profoundly weird but nothing is actually impossible on a P38 :)
Ahhh, that's making sense. Thanks Richard. I'll have to have at the fob cover and batteries to make sure they stay in firmly. I got so pissed off with it all last time round that the back cover is gouged and doesn't have the rubber seal because I just couldn't make it turn. It's likely that the code is being lost and that's leaving the key/door lock as the only way to get in.
After you enter the EKA, the key syncs up just fine.
Replacement fobs are just so damn pricey.... :(
I believe that "SWATting" has become quite the thing. Not that I would condone it :)
Both good suggestions but...
Could be RF I suppose, but it's very unpredictable even in similar locations. I guess I need to check the RF receiver... erm.. I'll go look it up :)
The battery contact is something I check, but if there's a red flashing LED when I press the tit.. it's got to be working hasn't it? Or does it lose its mind if there's a temporary loss of contact while the thing is sitting in your pocket? Hmm, that could make sense if the rolling code is stored in volatile memory.
Hi, just had a call from my wife who needed talking through the EKA unlock procedure. I sense strife when she gets home!
There is only one fob with the car, and it seems flakey. Sometimes the key fob seems to be transmitting fine (flashy red light etc) but the car won't unlock. You can hold it next to the rear windows, point it at the antenna, dance on one leg - nothing.
So you open the door using the key and the BECM demands the EKA before allowing the engine to start.
What's going on? I've had it happen to me when I'm sure I haven't pressed any fob buttons at all between lock and unlock, but I will admit it never seems to happen immediately after locking.
Welcome to the pub :) I'm sure you'll find it a lot less stressful over here...
I wonder how long it has been like that? I can't really imagine it moving once installed, but if it stopped the flap it must have been doing so for ages..
I think there were some under the bottom edge as well, not sure though...
Hey, it was bloody cold!
This is as far as mine came apart...
We (ok, Marty but I was watching REALLY hard) took the side vents off too... a bit more space to play with.
Of course it adds up, but the better manufacturers (or at least the ones that care about safety) fit cunifer. Rolls Royce, Porsche, Audi, Volvo....
Kunifer seems to be the way ahead. It irritates me that OEMs fit steel in most cases. I know they last perfectly well for much longer than the warranty period but it's stil a bit shoddy in my eyes when there's a much safer alternative for a few quid more.
Did I mention the toasty hot air in The Duchess?
Without the cheque book symbol the HEVAC Unit looks bare with just AUTO and two temps illuminated. :smugface:
Seriously, for the piece of mind - you won't regret using Marty's heater core mod. But you might swear at the centre rail that fits in front of the heater box...
Time to get the dash out and bottom it :)
I'll try not to sound too smug or something else will drop off....