I'd go with replacing the fuse box as well. Be sure to get the correct one for your VIN/ vehicle type as they're not interchangeable.
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=fuse+box+p38&x=0&y=0
Popular opinion has it that blocked plenum filters contribute to RL6 and 7 overheating due to extra current drain from the blower fans having to work harder to pull air through. My feeling is that it's just down to corrosion in the fuse box leading to high resistance connectors, but anyway, replace plenum filters just to be on the safe side.
And after a couple of hours fiddling with the entrails of two defunct head units and an encoder swap, I now have a sound system that switches on and off when I want it to.
Very satisfying.
Cheers Marty. I knew there had to be a technical name for the combined pot/ switch thing.
An encoder- now I know what I'm buggering around with
After a good blast with contact cleaner and clean air, the springing action is fine. It's hyper sensitive still though. The contacts are making/ breaking as soon as you touch it, rather than at the end of the push. Swapping out is next on the schedule.
Clive603 wrote:
"Never Underestimate an Old Man with a Range Rover".
They got the text a little wrong, for me it should read:
"Never underestimate that Range Rover, old man"
Spot on :)
Doesn't show well in the pic Sloth, but the solder's badly discoloured as well. I agree on the trigger bit, but something's caused that to get hot. Maybe someone's soldered in a new one in the past or attempted to resolder a dry joint?
New broken one doesn't show any of that discolouration in that area. Now in bits on the bench while I find a bulb for my magnifying light. Wonder why sometimes doing a job means you have to do a completely different one to facilitate it?!
Interestingly, I've had a look at my spare (AKA broken) unit and that's very definitely crispy where that pot/ on-off switch is soldered into the PCB. Obviously a weak point in these Alpines. As this switch also powers up the DSP amp, I imagine there's quite a bit of current floating around in there.
Existing one isn't crispy there so I'm optimistic I can fix. Well, mildly optimistic anyway!
Having finally managed to get back into the workshop, thought I'd close this one off.
The detent/ switch/ spring on the on-off-volume knob on the Alpine head unit has failed. As a result, the slightest movement of the car turns the radio on.
Still a mystery as to why it spontaneously failed (worked fine when I parked car in workshop), but an opportunity to tear into the guts of the head unit and replace whatever spring has popped out.
RutlandRover wrote:
Is supporting the gearbox and removing the chassis cross member an essential part of the process is RAVE going a bit overboard?
You might be able to wibble it in around the x member if you've got a 2/4 post or something. I've only ever done one (not on a lift) and had to drop x member for that
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
I bet Orangebean's already in negotiation. If not for the amp, I bet he's already asked about the boot badge. :-)
Way ahead of you there BPSM. Of course I've messaged him about the boot badge.
It's a hell of a profit and a much better investment than the P38 itself. PO bought a new one for mine in 2010.
£396.50
Should have bought a stack of them...
Now here's an eBay bargain for the discerning Vogue SE owner...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-XQK000110-Harman-Kardon-Amp-Amplifier-Vogue-SE-Westminster-/302483039988?
Morat wrote:
Confucius he say: He who does use Axlestand shall become Axlestand.
Confucius was a bit of a twonk then. I use many axlestands, and, last time I looked, I hadn't become one?
Nice one BPSM
Fortunately my subs were pristine, but I've bookmarked the supplier for when I blow the foam out in the future
Top marks for the research/ report Gilbertd. You're now officially in the Analbean club :)
I've got pages and pages of spreadsheets doing back to back comparisons on various bits- never done the HEVAC though
The life span of the Dunlops seems to be around 7 to 9 years, so you've got around 5 years of fear free life ahead of you Morat!
Five Summer Camps too- if that fine tradition keeps going.
Is the little aspirator fan grunged up and not spinning happily?
Last time I had to change a bag, it was impaled on a giant Redwood tree in Yosemite National Park. Used just my bare hands and teeth. Took me 10 minutes, 5 of which were searching for my hand cleanser wipes...
Island
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/springs-dunlop-isl004-p-629.html
Your friend might like to buy the pins that hold them in as well. It's this one, I think, but check
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/spring-fitting-full-isl003-p-5234.html
Gilbertd wrote:
If they've been replaced there's always a chance that something wasn't torqued up tight enough and has some play in it? Front end bolts are pretty tight to get off so they need to be done up with the same breaker bar that you used to get them off.
True- 200Nm for some of the big buggers on panhard/ radius arms. Bit of a workout where space is tight under the car and a voyage to the end of my torque wrench that I rarely have to use :)
Radius arm bushes, if not pressed in with the correct tool, can easily be destroyed on installation. Non genuine bushes have been reported as failing in a very short time.