blueplasticsoulman wrote:
Can i temporarily take the reducer out of the circuit to see if the heating then works?
Clamp one of the reducer coolant pipes to test.
You'll probably find reducer will freeze up and won't work, so do it on petrol.
Well done Marty!
The dust won't be dessicant anyway. I still remember how excited Morat was after fitting a new dryer Summer Camp before last :)
Morat- I sense that you're going to be spending some quality time with the Duchess and some soapy water looking for leaks in the near future, just in case your compressor died from overwork and not old age.
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
How do you check astuck thermostat? It won't blow cold?
How it should work- when engine is cold, thermostat is closed and stops water from bottom of rad getting into circulation, effectively removing the radiator from the coolant circulation, so water comes out of engine at top hose and circulates through bypass hose instead of radiator.
When stat opens, bypass hose is closed water comes from engine into top of rad and out through bottom of rad.
If stat is stuck open, rad will heat up at same rate as rest of engine, and bypass hose will stay cool.
That was long winded and I'm not sure I've explained it adequately though.
BTW, what I think Chris meant was to unclip ex tank from front mount and use a rag or something to lift it up, top up, effectively giving a greater head of water, put cap back on and clip it back in again.
EDIT or maybe he meant leave the rag under there, effectively permanently raising the front of the tank. I did something like that ages ago on my old one- extended the clip by an inch or so to lift it all up.
Under bonnet pipes will do. Feed to matrix is the one closest to and fed from inlet manifold. Return from matrix is the one that runs down to thermostat. Speaking of thermostats, yours isn't stuck open by any chance?
Hoses to/ from the matrix piping hot BPSM? LPG reducer in series or parallel with the heater hoses?
If your blend motors aren't throwing a fault, then the problem is more likely to be on the "wet" side of things. Blocked matrix maybe?
Isn't Nick in Dorset Morat? Might be worth pinging him a message- he could be next door to you!
As Chris says, they are 'kin tight (200Nm). Took my big windy gun set to kill to undo mine. You'll also need a 23mm 12 point socket. Hopefully the stuck end won't be the one that is effectively "blind" as that would be hard to get heat onto.
http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/4066465184/bolt_m16_x_70mm_panhard_rod___flanged_hex___range_rover_1994_to_2001___discovery_2_
I do have a couple of used bolts which I could post to you.
The Thor uses two different temp sensors (in one sender unit) Chris. One feeds ECM and thus diagnostics, the other BECM and gauge. They differ in what they report. On mine, the temp gauge sits steadily at 5 to 12 and the Nano reports 95 to 100 degrees. Maybe your gauge is the other way round, or your stat is stuck open?
Gilbertd- using the thermostat figures, the GEMS is fully open at 88 degrees, so that's what LR think it should run at.
The Thor is more random as they state 85 degrees +/- 5 degrees fully open
GeorgeB wrote:
That reminds me, I still need to get the plugs off the crash cans and give them a clean to see if it shifts my warning as well.
Won't self clear the warning on a '95, even if you rectify the problem. Will need a Nano or similar...
If you can't physically move the shifter into low, could it just be some cr@p fallen into the gate, or the arms on the H have been bent?
On the plus side, at least you won't have a problem with rusted bolts. On the minus side, the nylocs will be stuffed so a bit of Loctite on the threads when re-assembling will do the trick.
I had a sneaking suspicion that the bushes might be to blame.
If you really want to fit poly's the only ones I've heard consistently good things about are Powerflex
https://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-series/products/Range+Rover+P38+%281994-2001%29-3085/1.html
Morat wrote:
Are you not aware of my work? :)
Only from the cards I've seen in various phone boxes :)
Saw this during a BBC documentary last night and it got me thinking- are there any notable people who actually own and run P38's, apart from.....
Nile Rodgers- songwriter, musician and producer- one of my heroes
There's an adjuster on the top of the box with a lock nut. Adjust with box centred. Aim is to just eliminate free play, but not to the point where the steering becomes tight in any position.
Just cos the steering wheel is straight doesn't mean it's been set up properly. Steering wheels can be taken off and moved around a spline or seven to get things looking right!
The steering is designed so that the straight ahead position on the box (ie centred) should be as near as damn it to straight ahead on the wheels
As the good book says:
12 Adjust drag link to nominal length of 1170 mm ±10mm.
15 Use steering box centralising feature to centralise box. Fit drag link.
19 Check front wheel alignment. See Adjustment.
Worth trying to adjust out any play in steering box as well.
The drag link needs to be adjusted after installation, using the steering box centralisation marks, so that straight ahead on the box = straight ahead on the wheels.
What radius arm/ panhard bushes did you fit? Poly or standard, LR/ Lemforder OEM or "other"? Were they fitted correctly, as it's easy to mess them up if not done with the correct tool?
You've looked at everything on the front, but have you looked at the rear axle bushes? You may be getting rear wheel steer if the radius arm/ panhard bushes are worn.
If you can face going back to your alignment guys, get them to check that the rear wheels are aligned to the centre line of the car. You'll get a few funny looks when you ask them to check a beam axle car, as, obviously, the hubs are fixed to each other by the axle so there's nothing adjustable
That's great Sloth. Thanks for that. It was the fact that when I tested it after the snip I could hear that second motor run that made me question the sanity of what I was doing.
Here's the one I've cut (and its equivalent on the other doors- they're all Orange/ pink
While I've been working my way around the doors, I've been cutting the Orange/ pink wire between the latch and outstations to disable the Superlock motor feed.
Looking at the wiring diagram though, I'm wondering whether I should have cut both Superlocking motor wires at the latch.
Have I just created a problem for myself by cutting the one wire and now have a system that'll Superlock and not unlock?
Doesn't look like it, but I do like to second guess myself occasionally.
Thoughts?
I'm slightly confused as to which car has which problem as you're talking about an X5 and a Thor in the same thread.
I take it you've checked out the Elpigas site for tech documentation/ software downloads etc?
http://www.elpigaz.com/en/index/
Stag downloads for latest software etc is here:
http://www.autogas-lpg.co.uk/content/11-Download-STAG