Simon- if I can just jump into super's thread and ask a quick question re the 2 banks thing?
You say:
"On an older system setting 2 cylinder banks can affect a bit more than just allowing the twiddle factor for bank 2"
What else can it affect?
I've just replumbed the LP side on mine (Zavoli Zeta S, AEB2856C, Matrix injectors) to achieve an equal pipe run to each of my Matrix injectors- previously had 1 pipe at 600mm long and 1 at 300mm long from the splitter.
Pinj numbers are now out of balance, as you'd expect, so need to rebalance, but what else will be affected?
Ta
Now back to super!
super4 wrote:
So what you are saying is that if everything is right on the normal engine running petrol side it trims itself and then when one adjusts the LPG it matches up and all's well ?
That's right- but you need to sort out your rough running on petrol first. You're wasting your time twiddling the LPG side until you've done that.
Just cos you've mentioned it above, when you switched the setting to 2 banks, that gave you the facilty to balance the gas flows to each bank, similar to balancing the carbs on an old petrol engine but electronically! Not something you should do until after you've at least done an autocal and got the LPG mapping somewhere near right, which of course you can't do until you've sorted your rough petrol running.
The petrol system is separate from the gas, but the gas system takes its injection timing and duration from the petrol engine management system. Very basically the gas system takes the petrol injector timing and the gas ECU just applies a correction factor to account for the different calorific value of petrol and lpg then triggers the gas injectors as well as shutting off the actual firing of the petrol injectors
The petrol management system doesn't know, or care about, the existence or operation of the gas system when the car is running on gas, but continues to monitor lambda sensors, MAF, TPS etc and applying whatever changes are appropriate to the petrol injector timing/ duration. These changes at the petrol injectors are then read by the gas ECU, so if the gas side is not properly calibrated the petrol trims will drift off as the petrol side tries to compensate.
In that situation, when you switch back from gas to petrol, the petrol trims will be off and the engine will run poorly until the petrol side gradually re-trims itself.
In a correctly functioning petrol system, you can't change anything material. It's all done by the engine ECM and its various sensors.
Getting the petrol side right will consist of having all the sensors reading correctly, Injecting the right quantity of petrol through clean injectors at the right time and pressure and firing good sparks at the right times through clean plugs.
Google's Streetcam has come on a lot since the early days...
But the Duchess will get dirty and scratched to buggery, unless you're going to do it in the (gasp) Jeep?
By the way, I've set up a web site devoted to responsible Green Laning- please send £25.00 to my PayPal address and I'll tell you more about it, perhaps...
super4 wrote:
Thanks - if I had to, do you think that I could do a recalibration with the equipment and knowledge I have and forum help or is it something to avoid
You could do an Auto Calibration after getting all of the config in line with what you do have but...
A main pre-condition to AutoCal is that the car is running spot on in Petrol- settled trims, all that kind of thing. If you're sure thats the case, AutoCal will get things in the ball park but you then need to tweak the maps to get it running right all across the range.
If it's already in the ball park (I love these Americanisms) anyway (as I said above) then why bother?
super4 wrote:
Think I have the S but then I have to do a remap and all that !!
That is an S
You don't actually have to change any of your settings or do a remap as the system (I assume) ran OK before you pulled off the pipe?
You can tweak things around to reflect the correct settings/ equipment fit, but instead maybe just replace crusty pipes, cracked solenoid coils, filters etc and leave the rest alone. If it ain't broke etc.
Not sure whether you have the Zavoli Zeta reducer or not, but if you do, you need to identify whether you have a Zeta N or Zeta S and set the pressure in the software accordingly:
Happy for you to do that with any of mine. Might be tricky to do though. I'm trying to download all of my PB albums prior to deleting them- failing every time I try at the moment.
So will we be found liable for the inevitable spring based assaults on people named Zebedee that will surely follow?
DevonP38 wrote:
Well Photobucket have suddenly decided I need to pay 30 quid a month to share my pictures... I don't think so!
Many of us have switched to Imgur since Photobucket went commercial- it's still free :)
Well, the discussion rotates around:
To keep the nut in place, should it vibrate loose, countered by the fact that if the bolt works back as the nut loosens it'll all fall off anyway.
My personal theory is that it performs the same function as those plastic things you put on sharp furniture corners etc to stop falling toddlers injuring themselves.
NA models don't seem to have it- obviously they don't care enough about small children.
Oh and belated photo credits to Tony the Ferryman (as he mentions above), without whom this topic would have been just a collection of empty words :)
Handy hint, not LPG related, but...
Wheels stuck on hubs- loosen wheel nuts (sufficient to allow wheel to wobble on hub but not fall off). Drive car forwards and backwards a bit while turning steering from lock to lock.
Most of the time just loosening nuts and turning steering from lock to lock will do it.
Much easier on the back!
super4 wrote:
Replaced the filter (vapour phase) about a year ago - but not sure where the liquid phase filter is ...........
If you have a sut off solenoid valve like this:
It's behind the big circular plate with the bolt in the middle. Make sure you get the O rings back in the right place when you put it back together though. No need to unmount whole valve from reducer to check.
Gilbertd wrote:
Out of curiosity, is there any other way of finding out the key number? I've only ever had one key for my white one but the label fell off years ago and as it doesn't have memory seats I can't see what position it sets the seat at to see what number it is. Or would it be a case that if I ordered another key and got a number 1, I'd only know if I'd got 2 number 1's if they wouldn't both sync at the same time?
Marty has a gizmo-
"I have a fob tester, that will capture the fob code (usually) and from that, I can work out what key you have for your vehcile, and also what fob code should be stored in the BECM."
Pressure is high in lines as far as through reducer solenoid valve (liquid phase). Reducer then reduces pressure to low (vapour phase) at reducer outlet then stays low pressure through vapour filter into injectors.
As Gilbertd says, could be a faulty solenoid in liquid phase, blocked filter in liquid phase, blocked filter in vapour phase, kinked pipe in vapour phase
Just watch that you don't get sold another Key 1. Only a single Key 1 will sync. You can't have both synched at the same time.
Gilbertd wrote:
Which reminds me. My set of Torx bits is complete, the only thing is, the T20 bit is longer than all the others. So someone has a short T20 in their set.....
I've got a short T20 in my set, but I'm pretty sure it's the original that Smiler tied a knot in to make it shorter. I'll check tomorrow.
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
I believe the correct term for that bent wire loop is 'A castellated nut' or 'castle nut'. I may be wrong. Someone will be along to correct me. I think you need a tool to do them.
OK then, I'll correct you :)
Aragorn is talking about this:
Much debate about the purpose of this loop around the forums. Some P38's have them, some don't. General consensus is cut it off, and if really paranoid, weld it back on when you've finished.
Robbo1 wrote:
Sorry should have asked in the previous post where to get my key cloned.
Rob.
No first hand experience of these people Rob, and Googling doesn't throw up any definite eureka moments about their service, or even if it works long term but:
http://www.alarmremotes.co.uk/rangerover.html
Equal in price to a new fob if you can get one would be this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-Thor-4-6-Complete-Becm-Lock-Set-2-Keys-96-000-Miles-/192176368147?
Bit drastic though.