Well, you're still attempting to run it on LPG, so all bets are pretty much off.
The petrol trims (and starting, idling etc) will never adjust correctly if you run on LPG with duff calibration. If the cracked LPG solenoid is indeed breaking down under heat then that will cut off gas- either intermittently, giving you the weak mixture or permanently until it cools down.
As for the default settings on LPG software, generally if you change anything you get a prompt to save the old configuration.
Assuming you have been saving your configurations as you've changed stuff, you should be able to load them and see what has altered.
EDIT- beaten to the button by Morat. I was diplomatically trying to find a way of reminding you that the advice on here was to leave LPG alone and run on petrol until that side was sorted.
Our green lanes are pretty overgrown down here in sunny Devon at the moment. Probably not too much point in repainting your until the lanes have had a damn good flailing :)
The 96 is likely to have the long cable run from battery to alternator via starter motor, so if it hasn't been done already put a new additional cable (pref around a 25mm2) direct between battery +ve terminal and large alternator +ve. You don't have to remove the original section between starter motor and alternator, but it's one less bit of old cable hanging around if you do.
Correct fuse box for yours is this one:
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuse-petrol-9497-genuine-amr6405-amr3375-p-4134.html
Unplug the speaker from the amp and stick a multimeter on the speaker terminals- should read about 4 ohm. You'll get a click from the speaker as well. If that's OK, the cone moves freely without scratching noises and the foam is intact then it's either the amp or the wires to the amp.
Back to tracing cables again!
Do the other speakers in that door work OK?
You could just reload the initial configuration files from when you first connected the software to the LPG ECU (assuming you saved the config files) which would put the gas system back to what it was before you started changing stuff and running AutoCal etc, BUT what Gilbertd and myself say above is key. Run it only on petrol until your trims etc have sorted themselves out.
Fiddle with the LPG once everything else is right. For now, forget you've even got gas installed or you're just going to go round in circles and vanish up your own exhaust pipe!
EDIT- Gilbertd beat me to the button this time...
no10chris wrote:
I saw a wrapped chrome orange, black roof, looked stunning. I said to other half about doing mine the same, got a stern NO, lol
She's not a true Essex Girl then?
:)
If you're running purely on petrol, any changes that you've made to LPG will not affect how the car starts, idles or runs- as long as you don't run it on LPG.
As you don't have the means to reset your adaptives you'll have to wait for the petrol side to sort itself out, including starting and idling, which will take a few stops, starts and miles of mixed running to happen. Of course it'll only sort itself out if everything is now working properly. Even a generic bluetooth OBD reader and something like the paid version of Torque Pro will give you the means to look at trims, airflow and lambdas to see what's happening. You're only guessing that it's running right otherwise.
If you give into temptation to switch to LPG at any time, that'll throw the petrol trims back and you'll be chasing your tail again.
So, does your right interior light work? If yes, do you have power at the purple wire at C309 up in headlining? If not then the problem is between splice 302 (don't know where that is unfortunately) and C309. If you have power at C309 then the problem is between there and the lamp itself.
super4 wrote:
Just found that it costs more to deliver Ignition leads to Spain than they cost - anyone coming out ?
Buy them from a Spanish motor factors instead?
https://www.recambioscoches.es/land-rover/range-rover-ii-lp/4086/10253/cable-de-encendido-piezas-de-conexion
for example.
There seem to be quite a few Spanish equivalents of Eurocarparts etc, but my non existent spanglish isn't good enough to penetrate their websites!
I have now learned that Cables de Encendido are HT leads though. I'm sure that will come in handy if I ever go to Spain :)
Download the full version of RAVE from here. It'll help you greatly when you need to look up components etc
BTW, the "sort of actuator" on passenger side rear engine compartment that you mention is the cruise control unit.
Lpgc wrote:
Orangebean wrote:
super4 wrote:
But here is a question for you- if that vacuum lead is broken does it affect the running ? It has been broken for much of the cars life and running problems have only recently happened
No- cruise control has its own vacuum pump and is completely self contained. Won't affect running in the slightest..
Got me scratching my head now! I have no P38 here to check on at the moment but I was under the impression cruise control on them was plumbed to manifold vacuum? Sure I've heard and corrected vacuum hissing from broken cruise control vac pipe at the firewall end of passenger side engine bay in the past, correcting cruise control function in some cases, and the other end of that pipe went to the manifold..
The pipe that runs away behind the manifold, in fact runs off through the bulkhead to the brake pedal switch which incorporates a valve to rapidly dump vacuum. Probably that is what you've heard hissing and would stop hissing when repaired.
As for the vac pump:
When cruise control is active and cruise ECU inputs
are acceptable, the ECU energises the vacuum pump
motor. The vacuum pump creates a vacuum in the
actuator which operates the throttle linkage. When the
required speed has been achieved, the ECU switches
off the vacuum pump. The ECU also controls a dump
valve which allows system vacuum to vent to
atmosphere.
Not a silly post at all. The questions that you're asking are all valid and comparisons would be valuable. The problem is that you probably won't find anyone that has experience of all of the systems, so best you can hope for are peoples views on what they actually have and what it does.
For example, with the hand-held units, I had the earlier model of Hawkeye, and within a month put it up for sale to fund a Nano Evo. The Hawkeye's text based interface made it just a code reader on steroids. It needed extra dongles to talk to different modules and the technical support/ user manuals were non-existent.
The Nano Evo on the other hand has a much more sophisticated interface, greater capabilities (only really lacks the ability of its bigger brother to dig into the locked entrails of the BECM and do the deep techy programming etc that Marty likes to do) and pretty good tech support/ documentation.
I like the Evo's ability to record to SD card for data recording purposes.
I think the bottom line for me is, if given the opportunity to swap my Evo for any of the other self contained ones- even with cash thrown in to sweeten the deal, would I? Hell no!
EDIT- it'd take me too long to write out all of the detailed capabilities of the Evo. They're all available to read or download from BBS here . Try finding the equivalent of that for a Hawkeye...
rayodunne wrote:
I have a set of blocks I made from dowel but lack a level surface to use them. Guess I need to borrow a garage floor.
No need- the whole point of the blocks is that they fix the distance between the suspension points. As long as the car is sitting firmly on the blocks at all corners the angle/ quality of floor is irrelevant.
super4 wrote:
But here is a question for you- if that vacuum lead is broken does it affect the running ? It has been broken for much of the cars life and running problems have only recently happened
No- cruise control has its own vacuum pump and is completely self contained. Won't affect running in the slightest..
On the blue one, when I was having problems with the gas fill, I did around 700 combined miles mixed, biased towards motorways, driving to empty on LPG and red light on petrol.
Smiler wrote:
Orangebean wrote:
You really are complete then :)
oh, that's odd, I was always told I wasn't quite all there...
Well, allowances are made for Diesels 'cos you're "special", and it's cruel to say not quite all there, the preferred word is "slow"
Smiler wrote:
Isn't the battery retaining bracket the metal strap that sit underneath the cover? (which is very much fitted)
That's the one!
You really are complete then :)
Smiler wrote:
Only the front one. The quick release dzus fasteners are both there
It has 3 dzus fasteners :)
Front one is in the battery retaining bracket, which I don't see in your pic either
So not quite complete...
<grin>.
Depending on what sort of diagnostics BSM has chosen, of course. Generics are unlikely to read HEVAC faults!
I put the part numbers in an earlier thread here
From the part pics it looks like the Idler Assy Timing Belt is plastic and the Drive Belt Idler Pulley is metal