The blade cutting's the easy bit. AFAIK the fob chip is unique to the VIN/ BECM and can't be re-programmed. New for your vin from LR is the only way.
If rumours are true and LR can only supply Key 1 new these days, then you'd be better off having your current Key 1 cloned.
T'wasnt me
The one in the braces- he done it...
LOL- I'm not going to copy my replies from the other one :)
The Java Black is a great colour, but shows every speck of dust and panel ripple...
"Download RAVE" and "Use the Search function" can identify and fix any issue on a P38. :)
I suppose it would be too logical to guess that the fob number corresponds to the memory setting for the seat ie fob 1 = memory 1?
The second one looks interesting, being sold by a guy in pin-striped trousers who keeps it on the roof of his office extension.
Will likely sell for £500- 600. It's relatively close to me too.
I'll resist the temptation though. Two are enough, for now.
Sorry to hear that Tony. From what you say of the economics you did the only sensible thing, but it must have hurt given all the time and work that you've put into it.
I'll miss your banter- so keep on lurking and don't keep your mouth shut!
Mark
Edit- the 38 Euros/month it costs to insure and tax mine over here seems like an absolute bargain. Damn good thing we're leaving the EU if that level of taxation would have been heading our way.
Gilbertd wrote:
So no option to enter the EKA, just use the remote. Not so good if you don't have a working remote or the signal is being blocked.
Or if the battery has gone flat and remote lost sync?
QHG000060 for the drag link. They're not a huge amount of money, unless you go for Lemforder (the best) in which case around £60
ANR1000 for the nuts
With a new software install, the Alisei software also has to be connected to the LPG ECU on the car, with ignition on before you can actually get/ set the correct configuration information. You'll find you have what appears to be a 3 cylinder car (amongst other things) with no option to change the config otherwise
That's interesting. The fracture line has the same length and profile. Even the dribbles follow the same path.
Definitely something to watch for.
Tends to be the only problem with Furness, who I use/ recommend on a regular basis. If its not in the pic you can't persuade them to chuck fittings etc in. Bought a rear wiper motor assembly off them a while back. Needed to make sure that all the rubbers etc were with it.
They told me that if it's not pictured they just bin stuff like that.
They're still great at same day dispatch for next day delivery and clean reliable parts though
Found a little puddle of coolant on the tray under the expansion tank after an enthusiastic drive back from Summer Camp.
First depressing thought was coolant overpressure escaping via cap, as it was right under the short "overflow" pipe. Put pink UV dye in tank and pressure tester on the system with coolant warm, pumped it to 20psi and wandered off for an hour.
Found this- hairline crack exactly under the arrow moulding. Not a split and no great coolant loss, even after 170 miles of mixed A and B roads and motorways.
Would have been pretty hard to spot the crack under normal running with just coolant so worth a close look at your tank next time you're in there. Tank is the original, by the way
Here's what drivers looked like:
Now I've got into leathery stuff, that would be an easy repair- no obvious tears.
Rub it down, clean it, bit of leather filler, spray dye, seal- job done.
Didn't the grey ones come out of my '95?
IIRC all the electrics worked, but leather on drivers was a bit shot. They were sun baked as the car spent a fair few years living in the Spanish sunshine.
Performance, light scatter, BECM friendly, legality, MOT compliance.
All informed by user feedback on what a bad fit the normal (aka cheap) H4 LEDs is on the P38. I've got a conscience about the effect my lights may have on other road users. I want to improve my night vision, but not at the expense of screwing up everyone elses.
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
Is that insanely bright or is it just right? I hate them boy racers that have those piercing lights. Its like a laser pen in your rear-view mirror.
For me the output is good.
Gilbertd said that as I was following him the other night...
"OB's headlights were a bright white but not dazzling in my mirror (so obviously set up properly)"
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
gonna change all my lights for led if I can. Think you can get most of the interior ones in an led equivalent.
Do your research first- any bulb that is fed from BECM is more complicated than just plugging in any old 12v led bulb. The forums are full of tales of angst about tail lights, side lights, switch lights, indicators- the list goes on. I know Marty has done a lot of LED conversions.
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
Orangebean wrote:
EDIT- these look identical to the one's I bought. No guarantee of that though as they're from China...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/a-pair-of-50W-4000LM-LED-headlight-Kit-H4-Hi-low-Beams-6000K-White-bulbs-L9V6-/263008237534?So this replaces both high and low beam? In just 1 bulb?
Can't say for the Chinese one- it just looks like the one's I bought
Just like the original H4 halogen with twin filaments, the one I have replicates that. Uses same hole and clip in back of reflector and plugs in to original loom H4 3 pin bulb plug, feeding the LED bulb via a black box.