Morat wrote:
... and maybe have a look at the burn on my passenger seat but that's only if Orangebean has time because it's hardly a showstopper.
I'm bringing the seat stuff, so we'll make the time
Morat wrote:
If anyone has time to drive my car over poor surfaces and give a second opinion on the tank slappers, or even help get it up in the air and have a look underneath, I'd be grateful.
I'm sure we'll all jump at the chance to give the Duchess a damn good thrashing on the lumpy bits, and, as for the opportunity to get her up in the air and have a look underneath, well, there's bound to be a queue :)
Could we have a final roll call so I can plan the cooking?
Oui mon Général...
It's got that bad now that I don't even know what day it is :)
Arrival Saturday- no private sessions...
EDIT- getting all my sh!t together today as I don't do last minute rushes. That way when car throws a last minute hissy fit tomorrow I've got a free day to deal with it!
Martyuk wrote:
Oh, and also have a coolant leak (sodding again) to look at on the front of the engine somewhere..
I've got a spare Allmakes water pump (good used) on my emergency spares shelf. Want me to throw it in?
What sort of time are you planning to be at workshop tomorrow? My arrival time there dictates my departure time from here. No point in arriving there and having to sit around watching the grass grow.
BTW need a sunroof type window switch pack. Do you have one made up? Will bring old one.
Smiler wrote:
The fuse box was a more recent discovery so nothing ordered.
You've a chance to get one next day if you call LR Direct early this morning
https://www.lrdirect.com/AMR6477-supplied-by-BRITPART-branded-LR.html
It is a genuine LR part, even though supplied by Britpart!
Maybe Island (worth a call)
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuse-25td-9498-genuine-amr3376-amr6406-amr6477-p-4613.html
although they say there's a 2-3 day lead
Martyuk wrote:
I might bung my new AC condenser and dryer in the boot too and if there's time, look at that - as I'll then be able to get the AC gassed and hopefully cold for longer than a couple of weeks.. I know my front bumper will come off OK...
Do you have the HNBR o rings Marty? If not I'll throw in my box. Only size I don't have is the 11mm one.
Ferryman wrote:
Bonnetcables: can't you connect them head to tail with ductape and pull them through the grommet. Have helper pushing while you pull (or vice versa
That's the way. The gymnastics are just the standing on your head in the footwell :)
If you're planning on pulling front bumper, you need to get your favourite penetrant soaking the 2 valance bolts straight away and keep on spraying right up to the weekend. The more you soak, the easier the bolts will come out. Do you have the new sensor?
Bonnet cables (assuming you have new ones) usually easy apart from the gymnastics required to get through bulkhead grommet.
Air ducting leaks- more gymnastics and silver tape
You're cutting it fine to get the fuse box ordered and delivered to you by Friday?!
GeorgeB wrote:
The other issue is that there's as small double lipped and sprung seal on the end of the motor shaft. It looks like that's leaking slightly as well and could be a little more difficult to source (once I've worked out how to remove it, that is!).
Too much to hope for that it's got a part number on the closed face I suppose?
The problem with removing them (unless you can get to the back and drift them out) is that it almost always results in their destruction, so you go from leaking slightly to: omigawd now I have to measure the shaft and housing diameters and spend days in the O Ring Quarter which is hopefully the same as the Seal Quarter.
LPGC or Gilbertd will no doubt drop by with much more insight than I've got, but, from observations over 3 years on the blue car, some LPG fill pumps are weaker than others. My usual Calor centre has a new pump that flies along every time, my fall back retailer's pumps are much slower. In addition I've encountered pumps that steadfastly refused to dispense more than 25p of LPG no matter what I do.
There's an 80% fill limit valve in the system so if yours is filling right to its liquid capacity there's obviously a problem with that valve. Maybe best to stop filling at 75L until you can get it checked.
This is the end of a long HEVAC journey, consisting of head unit repair (ribbon replacement part from Marty to eliminate duff pixels, all illumination, plus rotary switch contacts). Audi heater core conversion. Full stripdown of heater box to free flaps, ream shaft housings, replace foam, bench test/ repair blend motors. Seal all (well, most) air duct joints. Compressor clutch reface and bearing replacement. Condenser and Receiver Dryer replacement. Pinholed HP pipe replacement.
I suppose it's sort of HEVAC but I'm still waiting for a convenient time for the crack on my screen to lead to the screen being replaced as coincidentally most of the heating elements have failed ;)
Lovely cold air now blasting from system. Puddle on ground under evaporator drains so they appear to be doing their job as well although I was a bit dubious about the concertina rubber bit and its fit when I refurbed the heater unit.
Bring on the heatwave for the Summer Camp trip!
They're in the box of stuff that I'm pulling together for the weekend. In the meantime just keep letting air out of the tyres on the high side until it sits level :)
Disclaimer- letting air out of tyres may result in other unwanted side effects such as tyre explosion, delamination, impaired vehicle handling with loss of control and high speed rollover resulting in death or injury to driver, passengers and 3rd parties.
:) :)
Here are the schematics so you can see what does what...
A bit of Hylomar or something on the threads would eliminate the sensor as a suspect. Thing is though, the sensor will be common to all corners ie if it's leaking, all air will be lost rather than just the rear 2. I'll have a look at the schematics for the pneumatics (that's a mouthful) when I have a moment
Worth a punt though.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-EAS-Valve-Block-with-Driver-/263069677046?
Be quick- it's cheap!
For some reason they got cross at Longleat when I tried to peel one of their Zebras and fake fur just won't cut it, so I'll just have to be satisfied with the mirrored headlining that's going in at Summer Camp :(
The dye will work on any leather. You just need to send a sample to Liquid Leather to get the right colour
https://www.liquidleather.com/pages/colour-mixing
I don't know the actual dimensions of the o-ring unfortunately. Doesn't feature on my parts catalogue either.
In the absence of a proper gauge (would have thought the o-ring shop would have one?!), try measuring the original ring using this:
https://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/B_O-Ring-Charts.pdf
I find it surprisingly accurate (needs printing to actual size, not scaling to fit page) and with a combination of inside/ outside diameters and measured thicknesses across cross section, together with a bit of maths (cross sectional area will be constant even though old ring is squashed into an oval), you should be able to get pretty damn close to the size