Morat wrote:
Probably just filthy, and I was behind two dust clouds instead of just one :P
Doesn't your headlight wash/ wipe work then Morat? :) :)
Reminds me, these (any- don't know?) LED lights are only approved for UK use if fitted to a vehicle with light levelling and headlamp washers, both of which the P38 has, so if the Man from the Ministry is standing behind your MOT tester you're OK although I suspect an advisory could in theory be issued if your headlight washers didn't work, although as they're not part of the test, how would they know?!
They're a much brighter white than stock. Make the driving/main beam lights beside them look yellow by comparison, even though they're fitted with Nightbreakers.
Need to be properly set up (there's a vernier adjustment on the bulb itself) with a beamsetter at your friendly MOT garage to avoid light scatter and get a sharp cut off within MOT legality standards. Not something you can be sure of doing yourself at home against the shed wall.
Rubber dirt shield at back of headlight needed trimming to clear the large heat sink.
No BECM errors.
Really good upgrade- at a price. However Powerful UK no longer seem to sell them so no idea where you'd buy them from now :(
http://www.powerfuluk.com/vehicles/range-rover-full-size/p38/exterior-accessories/h4-led-4000-lm-headlight-bulbs-range-rover-p38-white-pair.html
EDIT- these look identical to the one's I bought. No guarantee of that though as they're from China...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/a-pair-of-50W-4000LM-LED-headlight-Kit-H4-Hi-low-Beams-6000K-White-bulbs-L9V6-/263008237534?
No probs!
Have a read of this thread. Even though the pics no longer work the words do. May be an option for your repair.
There are indeed two diesel fuse boxes, Thought I gave you the part number for yours in the Summer Camp thread?
Anyway- this one's yours http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuse-25td-9498-genuine-amr3376-amr6406-amr6477-p-4613.html
this one isn't! http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuse-25td-9901-yqe103420-p-6232.html
Changeover year was 99 at chassis XA410482
Anyway, after thrashing the VSE around the highways, byways, dirt tracks and private lanes of southern England, popped the bonnet to check for oil leaks etc and found a hairline fracture in the expansion tank. Still plenty of coolant inside and a little pink puddle under the tank.
Nuts.
EDIT- The Discovery tank has the same part number, and I know exactly where I could have found one at Summer Camp- doh!
Smiler wrote:
Just noticed in the photos, why is the DSE the only one with its bonnet open?...
(queue abuse)
To let the nasty oily smell out?
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
I thought there was a "workshop"?
Why would we rufty tufty P38 owners want to work inside the workshop, when we could do it outside and get sunstroke?
As we discussed at Camp, you now have an invaluable nicely packaged box of spares to park on top of the SE in the drive.
Congratulations (I think- time will tell!)
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
oh. that's right tight if it is.
It certainly is. Beautifully engineered to make it really hard to see/ get to/ get a bleed pipe on/ get a spanner on. That's what makes it fun.
I carefully cut out a block of the sound insulation foam around the 3 nipples so that I can just pull it out for access purposes, and pop it back in when I've finished. It's almost invisible if you use a thin sharp knife.
For your delectation, here are some Happy Snaps. Thanks to Photobucket now changing their commercial model (as pointed out by Sloth) they now want $300 plus for hosting. All of my previous photos now show as a silly box on the site, so screw Photobucket, I've moved to Imgur...
The production line:
Erm, the hotel car park
And in the hotel car park, what looks like people "doing it" in a white P38, while a suspicious "character" with a large bag walks innocently past
Headlining production line...
http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b407/waxdolphin/RR%20P38/Vogue%20SE%20A/20170708_140547_zpsydcrxe7o.jpg
Damn . Can't upload pics from mobile. Will have to wait till I get home.
Pull the unit apart and use one of Martys ribbon cable replacements when you put it back together. If the screen pixels haven't started dissappearing yet they soon will!
You can then clean all the rotary contacts replace all the bulbs and it'll be good for the future.
Well. It's very quiet here
The great British weather forecast has changed again. Swindon now showers today and not tomorrow. I'm hauling the event shelter into the car- just in case!
See you all later...
The Trinary (dual pressure) switch is the one that controls the clutch and condenser fan speed. The single pressure one powers the condenser fans.
The dual pressure switch protects the refrigerant
system from extremes of pressure and controls the
operating speed of the condenser fans. The dual
pressure switch is installed in the top of the receiver/
drier and senses receiver/ drier outlet pressure.
If the minimum or maximum refrigerant pressure limit
is exceeded, switch contacts open to disconnect the
power supply line between the ATC ECU and the
compressor clutch. The minimum pressure limit
protects the compressor, by preventing operation of
the system unless there is a minimum refrigerant
pressure (and thus refrigerant and lubricating oil) in
the system. The maximum pressure limit keeps the
refrigerant system within a safe operating pressure.
A separate set of switch contacts control the operating
speed of the condenser fans.
Used from Furness- never had a duff part yet from them, and I've bought a fair few!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-Lower-Tailgate-Strap-Cable-ALR5237-with-warranty-/332291644456?
The VSE sounds good. Has it got a boot badge?!
I'm also after rear door cards.
BTW the VSE fuse box won't work in yours unfortunately. You need the AMR6477 specifically for your diesel. The VSE one will be YQE103410
A little past its prime :)
The compressor on mine (the old car- can't hear the compressor on new one) runs at random times during normal driving, whatever mode/ inhibit combination I've selected, so unless that system has problems, which it doesn't since I rebuilt compressor a few years ago, your compressor is acting normally.
As long as the thermal cutout hasn't been tampered with the compressor will cut out if the temperature exceeds 120C. That's pretty darn hot, but anything below that must be, by definition, within design parameters.
What happens if, in this unusual hot spell, you run the system with the lid off the box to let trapped heat escape? The heat could be getting to the driver module which could have some iffy joints somewhere.
As an extension of that theory, have you checked all the connectors and their pins/ sockets that you would have disconnected/ reconnected to do the valve block? Make sure none are bent, corroded, missing and that the individual pins are tight in their corresponding sockets..