Marty's the locking guru so will have more in depth insight into digging into BECM to extract fob info.
Let's assume that your fob is the correct one for the BECM. First of all your receiver needs to work. This lives under the RH loadspace cap. These are prone to random RF interference problems and so could be either unplugged completely, or have their aerials snipped to reduce the range/ susceptibility to interference. Once you've checked that...
Drivers door latch- all microswitches need to work as you need them to sync the fob to the vehicle. Once you've checked that...
Sync the fob to the car. Press and hold lock button, insert key into door, turn to lock, turn to center, remove key from lock, release lock button. Press and hold unlock button, insert key into door, turn to unlock, turn to center, remove key from lock, release unlock button.
If the entrails are all in the correct alignment, the remote will now work.
I wouldn't mess with locking/ immobilisation without having the correct working through door latch EKA for the car though. Your Nano won't rescue you if things go wrong on the early cars.

Pleased you got it working.
Be an idea to get to your favourite local main LR dealer PDQ and get the EKA for the car. Use the Nano to check that all of the switches in drivers door latch are OK as well, then you'll have disarmed the ticking time bomb. If it's happened randomly once, it'll happen again.
If the dealer EKA doesn't work and BECM's been replaced at any stage there should be a sticker on it with the VIN or read the VIN with Nano and get the dealer to give you the EKA for that VIN.

Have you tried sticking the EKA code in? Have to be via the door lock as don't think you can put it in via the nano on the early ones.

The before and afters are here
and yes, I did post a link to the Glyptone videos somewhere...

Chris- refurbished the seats myself. They were in a pretty nasty, dirty, cracked and torn state when I got the car.
Rob- the interior is coming on, but still much to do with the back half. Headlining will be replaced at Summer Camp, but the loadspace and rear door cards are pretty beaten up.
As for the HEVAC, getting the codes read is the quickest way to get towards the root of the problems. A Nano Evo or similar is pretty indispensable if you're planning on keeping things working in tip-top condition. Bit spendy at the moment as value of pound has dropped, but will save it's cost after the first few code reads and fault code resets.

The official "Tart's Boudoir" lightstone gearshift and handbrake, and ash grey steering wheel...

The VSE (01 MY 02 model) was right at the end of P38 production so LR were pretty much using up what they had left on the shelves.
While the official spec sheet had Comets and Ash Grey steering wheel there's a possibility that either a PO has fitted/ specified the colour coded steering wheel and Hurricanes, or the factory did 'cos the shelves were empty!
David's VSE has a black gearchange, which he believes is original, rather than the Lightstone that the spec says should be on there, so there's variance across the model.
IMO the Comets look nicer than the Hurricanes though- even if they were "borrowed" from the Disco :)

Ignore numbering on coil packs. Mine bore no relation to reality!

Shouldn't be, if gasket is new, but I usually give mine a very light spray of Blue Hylomar just for peace of mind as I've got a sandwich plate in there. Test fit gasket first 'cos the Shitpart ones don't usually fit nicely over the dowels and might need a touch of fettling.

Well, there's no oil inside there- in a perfect world it should just be air, but...
In real life, there's usually a bit of oil from the recirc system. If it's something coming out, as opposed to something spraying up from outside (only you can tell that- pics won't help) then the gaskets at both ends will need replacing. When I did mine I made gaskets for them as I tend to have gasket paper in the shop, but, assuming the faces are clean and flat you should be able to get away with a light coating of Hylosil or similar.
An air leak downstream of the MAF would be one potential cause of misfires/ rough running.

Check the tolerance of your meter and the temperature of your kitchen table :)
I reckon you're OK...

14.5 ohm +/- 0.7 @20C

22 x 2.5 mm Chris

Nuts!
Aircon guy came by today to recommission system. After faffing about with relays to get system electrics working as they should and flushing/ purging system/ pressurising with nitrogen/ hydrogen mix to test, sniffed out a pinhole on HP dryer line where it sits under a clip. Another thing to replace and no air until he comes back to finish the job early next week.
In theory, everything else checks out OK though. Hopefully will have air working before the trip to Summer Camp as there's bound to be a heatwave that weekend (!)

Smiler wrote:

I currently have a set of optical tracking bars on loan to me, if anyone wants to check/adjust theirs I'll ask the owner if he minds me bringing it along.

---

Tracking is certainly on my must do list, but I really should do it before I stick a couple of hundred motorway miles on the car. Might just do a rough set with the spirit levels/ tape measure to get me to camp.

I'll chuck in my leather cleaning/ repair stuff and painting stuff, although will have to pick up a can of Java Black, to do your rusty spot on roof Marty.
Do you have a set of steps at the shop, 'cos working at height is easier when you're not standing on someone's shoulders?
As for food- the King of Barbecue will hopefully do his stuff on Saturday evening. I'll lob something suitable in the cooler to contribute.

I think what Sloth meant was that the air pressure could blow the pipes apart at the join down in the body, not at the top. Holding the top pipe, or bottom pipe, won't stop that happening.
Cat5 reel cable might be a bit rigid- patch cables are floppier!

A Cat5 patch cable (with the plug cut off!) is a perfect size/ flexibility to feed through the drains and clear blockages.

What Sloth said ^^ but an observation as well. From my experience with my '95, all of the main electrical cables/ grounds were deteriorating with corrosion where they were crimped into the connectors so it's worth having a close look at the main batt to chassis ground cable (inc where it connects to the suspension tower) and the main power cables that feed the fusebox and starter motor/ alternator. I replaced all of mine.
In addition, on the early models there is a worthwhile modification to add a new 25mm2 direct from battery +ve to alternator. On our early ones the original cable runs to the starter motor first before continuing on to the alternator.
There are some really good electrical tests with numbers to achieve here:
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/7-info-electrical-basic-tests

My '95 had polybushes fitted when I bought it 3 years ago. Still same bushes, no handling complaints. My VSE has part polybushes, again no handling complaints.
If/ when they clap out, I'll replace with original bushes, just 'cos of the reputation that polys have, but my experience doesn't back that up so far.