tidy job

By this i mean mistake!!

In my case it was Jan 2018 when i put the bonnet up slightly to charge the battery on a dry cold winters night..

But as it happens overnight, this happened...

Whoops..

Well i've just gone out to start it just for curiosity.

The Oil pressure light used to hang on for a second or two and there was a tappet making itself known even after a short period of inactivity...

I'm pleased to report the oil pressure light didn't hang around for any period of time, and the noisy tappet is no longer making itself known.

Which i'm pleased about..

Engine Purrs like a big V8 Kitten now!!

Nope not a typo i've run a few oils through it to clean it out.

dave3d wrote:

I have just been on RangeRovers.net and I notice that Richard_G is now a super moderator !!

What goes round comes around. I wonder if Gilbertd has an opinion on that ?

Modding is fun..

I was a Mod on Mini2 for a while

"oil filters"

I like to cross examine my oil filters when removed..

The latest test subject is a Mann filter compared to the "cheaper" Bosch..

The Mann filter uses a rather prehistoric leaf relief spring

and the casing is a tad flimsier!

The Mann filter also had around 500mi on it!!

and pleats are a tad deformed..

The "old" Bosch filter had 504mi on it and here it is..

casing is more robust and it has more "oil flow" holes in the cap...

Bosch uses a tougher coil spring and the filter media is far more robust..

The pleats aren't nearly as deformed, and it feels "tougher" it is harder to separate the pleats..

I'll do more research!!

cost wise..

The Mann filter was £12 at ECP

And the better built "IMO" Bosch was £8!!

Gotta love it.

Weird nerdy shit!!

The Rover V8 internally remained unchanged from 1960 to 2005 it was just recommendations that altered in regard to oil...

I have the handbooks for my dads old Classics.

His 1974 3.5 wanted 20w50
His 1987 3.5 "same engine" except it was EFI wanted 15w40..

My 2001 Vogue "wants" 10w40..

The RV8 increased in capacity over the years and the oil pump went from the dizzy drive to the far more efficient Crank driven pump and thats it..

As Richard says above, it will stay a 10w when cold like a 10w40 or 10w30 but is a 60 when hot which is ideal for the RV8..

I've just changed the oil for this stuff..

As for it being "high tech for the RV8" not really it has greater anti wear additives than a non or semi synthetic and the surface protection is far better!
And it doesn't break down under excessive heat like a lesser 10w would..

I hate people like that!!

"new brakes" were fitted when i bought it..

Like a moron i only checked the pad i could see through the wheel!!

The inside pad was worn down to such a degree it departed at great velocity out the caliper and onto the M4..

Managed to retrieve it.

Intake hose wrapped with hockey tape..

Changed the oil again today!!

The "old" stuff was 15w40 Mobil 1000 with a Wynns lifter treatment..

Before the Mobil 1000 was Mobil 3000 5w40 which was also a flush..

And before that was 10w40 Shell helix HX7..

I decided on a 10w60 fully syn this time around..

The old stuff was pretty clean..

And fill 'er up!!

that should last around 5k !!

H

Morat wrote:

Strangerover - where did you get that box! I'd love one :)
The Bassets investigate anything that lives in the boot for taste and mouth feel....

Umm..

From memory there is...

Tyre pump
3/8 socket set
pliers
spare coolant pipe
Dremel
1/4 socket set
various screwdrivers
RTV silicone
Tow rope
Jump leads.
Tyre slime
tyre plug kit..

And some hose clamps!! ;)

I have a bottle of coolant just behind too!!

Henry..

Good to know..

Thanks,.

Just ordered some Castrol Edge FST 10w60 for the P38..

Anyone else used it?

H

Gilbertd wrote:

Not got poly bushes in it by any chance have you? Like Gordon, I'd go for the Shitpart ones as original Boge are no longer available, cheap, with a warranty and easy to replace when you have to take them off to replace them under warranty.

No standard shitpart bushes!

Gilbertd wrote:

I know you've spent hours polishing it but what have you done to the suspension? Bushes, ball joints, shocks, etc?
I fitted new drop links and ARB bushes + radius arm bushes.

And a set of Dunlop air springs..

The Shockers seem to be only thing left. .

Hiya

It has always been a bit shat!!

EAS is in pucker order..

However the ride is akin if not worse than my old D2 which has saggy old coils..

Would this be in part to the fact the shockers are original, would it be worth throwing a set of Boge or Bilsteins on it?

Cheers

Looks great David..

I'll be wrapping my manifolds when i pull them off, as i find the heatshields a pain in the rear to remove and refit!!

Evening Gents..

An unusual issue that has plagued my P38 since i bought it is an iffy cold start.

If you fire her up the revs will bounce between what seems like 250 and 1000rpm, it'll do this a few times before settling down to a good idle. if you give her some throttle it sorts itself out faster.,

However I learnt that if you give her a TINY bit of throttle when starting it stops the hunting but will settle to a very low idle..

Once it's HOT she purrs like a V8 Kitten and sits at the correct idle speed.

I should note there are no misfires..

Cheers gents.

I'd remove it from your order, the cap won't fit, mainly because the float won't fit in the P38's expansion bottle.

The expansion tank and cap was the same for the RRC Diesel and Petrol hence the "fits 2.5 and V8 models"