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Straight to the point really gents!

Some pillock opened their door on to my door handle with some considerable force I might add and have caved the door handle in to the door creating a nice crease..

The Door itself has a few electrical bits in it, does anyone know whether there is just one big loom plug to remove?

Thanks H

Aragorn wrote:

I've thought about this a bit with mine.

Getting a motor isnt too hard, though there are some questions around what you'd do with the transmission. Most EV's end up with a single speed reduction of somewhere around 9:1. You could use a manual trans and lock it in 2nd/3rd to get the right reduction, but thats a lot of weight.

I've seen a conversion using a Tesla drive unit mounted sideways where the transfer case would go, with a new set of gears made to replace the built in reduction (because your driving the stock axles). However when i did the sums the resulting gear ratio still wasnt right for a P38, seemed better suited to a 90 with bigger tyres etc. Tesla bits are also mega bucks. A LEAF motor is a grand, Tesla one is 10.

The most appealing setup I've come across recently was using the hybrid gearbox from an GS450h... With some simple mods it can be run as a standalone motor, is pretty powerful, and costs about a grand. Theres also a 4wd version with a transfer case on the back, though those are significantly rarer!

The big sticking point for me is batteries. My LEAF has 30kwh pack, about 25kwh usable and that gets me 75miles or so on a decent day (faster motorway driving etc) i suspect 25kwh in a P38 is going to get 50miles, or maybe even less, just with the relative inefficacy. Thus for it to be a useful vehicle i recon it'd want 60-70kwh minimum.

a 30kwh LEAF battery costs around 3 grand. a 60kwh LEAF pack is more like 10. 75kwh Tesla packs are 13+ which feels like a lot of money to be pouring into an old landrover.

Maybe in a few years battery prices will come down a bit and it'll look more sensible!

People have been saying battery prices will drop for years, still hasn't happened.

Doubt it ever will to be fair.

I guess a conversion is possible but it would render the car useless.

I don't understand why some are shocked at the price of fuel and then will happily pour a hilarious amount of money in to an EV conversion

Doesn't really make sense to me.

That was a close call Grizz

Making me paranoid about mine now!! LOL

Gilbertd wrote:

StrangeRover wrote:

Smart motor that is Richard.

It is. It is OldShep's old car. It was pretty tidy when he sold it but the guy that bought it neglected it and caused a few more problems by following the advice of 'experts' on facebook. Since we got it, it has had a new headlining, sunroof seal, the drivers seat and steering wheel have been cleaned and re-dyed, a pair of new rear brake callipers, metal brake pipes, a couple of brake hoses, new water pump, rocker cover gaskets, valley gasket, power steering pipes, a couple of tyres, a Marty special DSP replacement, new window switchpack, new heater blowers, HEVAC zebra strip, throttle body heater gasket (and the brittle plastic pipe replaced with copper LPG pipe) and various other bits and pieces. The valet guy did a superb job on it, and the picture doesn't really do it justice. Just waiting for the nuts the battery cover screws fit into so even that will fit properly. That was Danny's idea, as I told him, until I first saw that car I'd never seen one with a battery cover but he's insisted it's got to be right. He even got me to take the side repeater indicators off so he could clean the dirt out from inside them with a small toothbrush......

We've left that bloody horrible stainless exhaust on it though. We could have taken it off, sold it and used the proceeds to buy a standard one but then we'd need to change the rear bumper too as that has had bits cut out of it to clear the tailpipes.

Puts mine to shame I must say.

Smart motor that is Richard.

And my sister lives 50 yards from the River Dee and they keep markers for high tides particularly when we have storms the last big one in 2013 . They are rare events and we still did not get even close to being flooded. If anything the sea levels are dropping where once we could get out on our boats on a 28ft tide now its barely possible and 29 ft is the norm. So if any global warming experts want to come down here I can prove to them sea levels are dropping not rising. Just more scaremongering

Watch this.

https://youtu.be/YF4LoBeYfzA

Sky news australia is the only news source I watch LOL

enter image description here

Mine have rotted off, the outrigger that comes off the chassis has snapped in half and the bolt on affair that holds the bumper is still attached to the bumper but not the chassis

My bumper is held up with zipties LOL

enter image description here

nah too much money to be made from PEZ and Derv they'll milk that cow dry..

Whos to say that the ban won't be lifted.

I for one think we have a good 20yrs before we have to worry unduly.

Hmm I have a D2 TD5 and yes it is a lovely motor, but i'm watching it slowly biodegrade ;)

Morat wrote:

StrangeRover wrote:

In todays age you have tor really think what makes a classic..

This!

Sadly I don't know if the market is ready for lumbering old 4x4s to join the ranks of the exhalted :/

Yes and no.

To be fair the RRC can be classed as a lumbering 4x4 just the same as the P38...

Look at Nissan Patrols and old Land cruisers, they demand quite a price.

The classic car world is diverse even the "undesirables" are desirable to some!!

1) Yes of course you can, you crank her over to start her in park eh!! all you're doing is turning the TQ which in turn is rotating the front pump of the gearbox, all park does in engage a pawl to lock the output shaft.. if the front cover is removed I just thread the bolt in to the end of the crank and turn it that way.

2) I definitely removed my cam without taking out the engine it comes out straight I pulled it out just with the rad removed and the engine and gearbox coolers just sat there loose iirc once unbolted all the rads have a fair bit of movement in them..

In todays age you have tor really think what makes a classic..

The Classic has a reputation nearly as despised as the P38 and I've said it many time over from experience that you either spend hours/days/years welding up a classic or you can spend time with a multimeter and a soldering iron with the P38, and having spent hours on my back under a Classic with sparks and metal splatter running down my shirt, I can tell you which I'd rather own..

Hence why I sold my 91 3.9 manual and kept my P38..

The values of the P38 are going up unless you're looking solely on Ebay where most spares/repair motors linger, even now you can snap up a classic for less than 8k as they tend to pop up on ebay occasionally.

Jeep XJ's have sky rocketed in value in recent times, no idea why my Dad had one in "murple" and he snagged it for £600 and gave it away a few years later, not very practical and incredibly thirsty for the size of the thing, IIRC it did 15mpg almost all the time..

As for LPG I run mine primarily on Petrol for that exact reason LPG has nearly disappeared from where I live and to be fair I factored in the cost of fuel when I bought it and to be fair to it with everything in tip top condition it is currently averaging 22mpg on my route to work which ain't bad considering my RRC with LPG did 12MPG on Gas which equated to around 23mpg cost wise, so any saving is was barely noticeable..

Would I spend 6+k for a P38? Hell no my Dad says the same about the 2dr classics he had one in the 90s he payed 1k for it he says to him they're still not worth much more than the £600 you could pick them up for a few years ago the £40,000 plus they fetch is hilarious

I payed less than £900 for my P38 4yrs ago, you can't find a running/driving one for that now..

EBC pads and Britpart performance discs a good combo IMO the brakes on mine are far stronger than they were mostly down to the EBC pads IMO.
By rights any brake disk/pad combo will work however some are better than others..

My Front discs only had 30k on them and they were banana shaped.

1 Spark plugs are completely worn out and it looks to me like it was running a tad rich...
2 Definitely do the water pump while you're there, its an easy job and well worth doing just for peace of mind especially if that unit is original..
3 While the front cover is off it would certainly be a good idea to replace the timing chain and sprockets around £30 and well worth doing
4 NGK plugs are the best ones to use in the P38 and be weary with the large hex some Thor head castings don't allow room for the bigger nut on the spark plugs and as such you can't get the socket on to them NGK PFR6N-11 are best for the thor in my opinion
5 The oil pump rotors should be fine.

Lpgc wrote:

If you P38 experts can't tell the difference between a real Vogue etc and a normal P38, why would anyone pay so much more for a real one? Why wouldn't a buyer rather save maybe 50%(?) on the buy price and stick a Vogue badge on the back? Even if they buy a real one, if they come to sell it other buyers might think it a potential fake?

Post 1999 all 4.6 V8's were Vogues the 4.6 from the HSE line was dropped to separate the models the Vogue being the one with the bigger motor and more wood on the inside.
Only the 4.0 if spec'd could only be an HSE the Diesel itself got an upgrade to DHSE and that pretty much it..

Not really a common sight the P38 in production terms the P38 is one of the rarest mainstream LR models to date 167k P38's were sold worldwide compared to 325k RRC but the classic sold 325k over a period of 25yrs the P38 on the other hand sold 167k in 7yrs or there abouts, so LR got something right..

As for the runt of the litter, to be fair I'm struggling to imagine any LR that isn't regarded as such no LR is known for its build quality

The P38 was the last Range Rover with its roots in Spen kings design and as such I believe it is the last of the "classic" Range Rovers, Spen apparently quite liked the P38 he regarded the later cars L322 onwards being and I quote saying that vehicles like the Range Rover he created were "never intended as a status symbol but later incarnations of my design seem to be intended for that purpose"

Many Motoring mags and online features seem to think the P38's time has come, seeing as the RRC is out of reach to most with most early and late models fetching obscene prices, the P38 is the bridge between the original and the l322..

It has all the best features of the RRC without the Rot and many other additions besides that makes it a true classic..

As for me I did have a Picture of a P38 on my bedroom wall, I used to cat the big pictures out of my Dads LR owners magazines "much to his dismay" and stick them to my wall...

As for the "to be seen in" the L322 RR is the most common model I see on the roads, the P38 is a far rarer sight i'd say P38 to my eye is a classy motor
The P38's reputation for unreliability is well known but as is the RRC's reputation for not only going wrong but also turning to dust, i'd much rather play with electricals than weld up and unending horror story..

As for what people will pay, there are 2dr and some 4dr RRC's changing hands for over 40k around 6yrs ago you couldn't give the rattily things away!

LOL

https://buy.motorious.com/articles/features/300001/range-rover-p38-modern-classic
https://classicsworld.co.uk/guides/buying-guide-range-rover-p38a/

H

But again we all have opinions eh!!