Mine have rotted off, the outrigger that comes off the chassis has snapped in half and the bolt on affair that holds the bumper is still attached to the bumper but not the chassis
My bumper is held up with zipties LOL
nah too much money to be made from PEZ and Derv they'll milk that cow dry..
Whos to say that the ban won't be lifted.
I for one think we have a good 20yrs before we have to worry unduly.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174739520640?hash=item28af497c80:g:TOQAAOSwzFVgfpTH
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333967001882?hash=item4dc1fc091a:g:61oAAOSw3vVgffuB
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265132423459?hash=item3dbb1fb923:g:ITYAAOSwxAtggFAD
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294144910743?hash=item447c672597:g:t4UAAOSwSQJgWHKY
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284277655316?hash=item423044c714:g:j4cAAOSwiENgfUvF
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324586459513?hash=item4b92dc5179:g:Z-IAAOSwj0tf6evm
Hmm I have a D2 TD5 and yes it is a lovely motor, but i'm watching it slowly biodegrade ;)
Morat wrote:
StrangeRover wrote:
In todays age you have tor really think what makes a classic..
This!
Sadly I don't know if the market is ready for lumbering old 4x4s to join the ranks of the exhalted :/
Yes and no.
To be fair the RRC can be classed as a lumbering 4x4 just the same as the P38...
Look at Nissan Patrols and old Land cruisers, they demand quite a price.
The classic car world is diverse even the "undesirables" are desirable to some!!
1) Yes of course you can, you crank her over to start her in park eh!! all you're doing is turning the TQ which in turn is rotating the front pump of the gearbox, all park does in engage a pawl to lock the output shaft.. if the front cover is removed I just thread the bolt in to the end of the crank and turn it that way.
2) I definitely removed my cam without taking out the engine it comes out straight I pulled it out just with the rad removed and the engine and gearbox coolers just sat there loose iirc once unbolted all the rads have a fair bit of movement in them..
In todays age you have tor really think what makes a classic..
The Classic has a reputation nearly as despised as the P38 and I've said it many time over from experience that you either spend hours/days/years welding up a classic or you can spend time with a multimeter and a soldering iron with the P38, and having spent hours on my back under a Classic with sparks and metal splatter running down my shirt, I can tell you which I'd rather own..
Hence why I sold my 91 3.9 manual and kept my P38..
The values of the P38 are going up unless you're looking solely on Ebay where most spares/repair motors linger, even now you can snap up a classic for less than 8k as they tend to pop up on ebay occasionally.
Jeep XJ's have sky rocketed in value in recent times, no idea why my Dad had one in "murple" and he snagged it for £600 and gave it away a few years later, not very practical and incredibly thirsty for the size of the thing, IIRC it did 15mpg almost all the time..
As for LPG I run mine primarily on Petrol for that exact reason LPG has nearly disappeared from where I live and to be fair I factored in the cost of fuel when I bought it and to be fair to it with everything in tip top condition it is currently averaging 22mpg on my route to work which ain't bad considering my RRC with LPG did 12MPG on Gas which equated to around 23mpg cost wise, so any saving is was barely noticeable..
Would I spend 6+k for a P38? Hell no my Dad says the same about the 2dr classics he had one in the 90s he payed 1k for it he says to him they're still not worth much more than the £600 you could pick them up for a few years ago the £40,000 plus they fetch is hilarious
I payed less than £900 for my P38 4yrs ago, you can't find a running/driving one for that now..
EBC pads and Britpart performance discs a good combo IMO the brakes on mine are far stronger than they were mostly down to the EBC pads IMO.
By rights any brake disk/pad combo will work however some are better than others..
My Front discs only had 30k on them and they were banana shaped.
1 Spark plugs are completely worn out and it looks to me like it was running a tad rich...
2 Definitely do the water pump while you're there, its an easy job and well worth doing just for peace of mind especially if that unit is original..
3 While the front cover is off it would certainly be a good idea to replace the timing chain and sprockets around £30 and well worth doing
4 NGK plugs are the best ones to use in the P38 and be weary with the large hex some Thor head castings don't allow room for the bigger nut on the spark plugs and as such you can't get the socket on to them NGK PFR6N-11 are best for the thor in my opinion
5 The oil pump rotors should be fine.
Lpgc wrote:
If you P38 experts can't tell the difference between a real Vogue etc and a normal P38, why would anyone pay so much more for a real one? Why wouldn't a buyer rather save maybe 50%(?) on the buy price and stick a Vogue badge on the back? Even if they buy a real one, if they come to sell it other buyers might think it a potential fake?
Post 1999 all 4.6 V8's were Vogues the 4.6 from the HSE line was dropped to separate the models the Vogue being the one with the bigger motor and more wood on the inside.
Only the 4.0 if spec'd could only be an HSE the Diesel itself got an upgrade to DHSE and that pretty much it..
Not really a common sight the P38 in production terms the P38 is one of the rarest mainstream LR models to date 167k P38's were sold worldwide compared to 325k RRC but the classic sold 325k over a period of 25yrs the P38 on the other hand sold 167k in 7yrs or there abouts, so LR got something right..
As for the runt of the litter, to be fair I'm struggling to imagine any LR that isn't regarded as such no LR is known for its build quality
The P38 was the last Range Rover with its roots in Spen kings design and as such I believe it is the last of the "classic" Range Rovers, Spen apparently quite liked the P38 he regarded the later cars L322 onwards being and I quote saying that vehicles like the Range Rover he created were "never intended as a status symbol but later incarnations of my design seem to be intended for that purpose"
Many Motoring mags and online features seem to think the P38's time has come, seeing as the RRC is out of reach to most with most early and late models fetching obscene prices, the P38 is the bridge between the original and the l322..
It has all the best features of the RRC without the Rot and many other additions besides that makes it a true classic..
As for me I did have a Picture of a P38 on my bedroom wall, I used to cat the big pictures out of my Dads LR owners magazines "much to his dismay" and stick them to my wall...
As for the "to be seen in" the L322 RR is the most common model I see on the roads, the P38 is a far rarer sight i'd say P38 to my eye is a classy motor
The P38's reputation for unreliability is well known but as is the RRC's reputation for not only going wrong but also turning to dust, i'd much rather play with electricals than weld up and unending horror story..
As for what people will pay, there are 2dr and some 4dr RRC's changing hands for over 40k around 6yrs ago you couldn't give the rattily things away!
LOL
https://buy.motorious.com/articles/features/300001/range-rover-p38-modern-classic
https://classicsworld.co.uk/guides/buying-guide-range-rover-p38a/
H
But again we all have opinions eh!!
New throttle body heater fitted today to hopefully stem the water leak..
The old one was leaking like a sieve..
new one fitted and so far no more leakage, or steam from the coolant hitting the manifold!
I seem to recall my head bolts being a 5/8ths socket
Sump gasket needs doing too.
A nice big parcel arrived for mine yesterday...
Around 2000mi since the last service, I'm aiming to "slowly" remove all the shite from the inside, she has run LPG since 2003 however oil change intervals from 2001-2013 were around 25k miles apart which isn't great on the old RV8
The old Stuff came out and was quite dark for the mileage, atleast the oil is doing some good eh!
Old oil filter was a right pain in the ass to remove, I certainly don't remember putting it on that tight but it took the skin off my knuckles..
Mating surface cleaned up and new filter primed up and spun on..
Plug back in,
And liquid gold thrown in.
She seems to like the old Comma 10w40 the annoying valvetrain rattle it has when hot is getting better which is a bonus..
- Should really have a thread to document everything on this beast, to be fair it likes to punch me in the bollix after a good deed, it did this by springing a leak from the throttle body heater, so a new'un is on the way!!
I bet she appreciates a good polish, my Dad used to say cars tend to drive better when clean LOL
Mine is covered in dents/scratches I've pretty much given up on polishing it, however I still keep it clean to stop all the shyte sitting in seams and rotting it out..
Rear wings are spot welded in place.
You can see some of the spot welds in the tailgate and rear door aperture, there are some under the window trim and where the rear bumper rubber strip sits.
It isn't too difficult to separate.
263mi from 75litres I ran her until it switched over to pez..
So that equated to roughly 16mpg..
which isn't too bad, the last fill up was £42
To be honest that sensor is fuckered so it's going to need to be replaced regardless only OEM Dunlop replacements .
As for its tendency to rise up/down did you mark the solenoids on removal? Mixing them up can yield some pretty interesting results.
If you have Eas software it would be prudent to have a look at the sensor reading on level ground if they're fluctuating then suspect dodgy sensors similarly if the sensor values are IIRC +/- 2 bits either side then it'll never settle..