would anyone know why my diesel p38 is making this noise when on charge
when I lock it up all the door locks buzz and only passenger one when unlocked is it a sign the door lock acculator is on its way out
olddirtbikes wrote:
Hi, talk to Bespoke Leathering, they will have the dye and conditioner you need to make it look new again.
Regards,
Alan
thanks for that I will look them up
this is the state of one of the seats that need cleaning
the seats came out of a off roader so bit grubby as you all can guess
thank you all once again for your help and advice will give them a go when the rain eases up
OK folks I've got some cream leather seats to drop in to my old girl they need bloody good clean I was thinking of using G101 a alkaline cleaner and a good leather cleaner after that to soften them up a bit
whats your thoughts or products to use
If anyone has the full version of Microcat, the VIN but doesn't always.
I have got a VIN checking program on laptop and it tels me all my p38 is fitted with and twin exhaust was one of them it even tells me what brand of tyers it left Solihull on
it's all to do with what optional extras was added at time of manufacture me and neighbour both have 2.5td p38 and I've got a few optional extras eg chubby box drink holder where he don't and I've got twin exhaust
Pierre3 wrote:
Karlos, no news yet, I haven't heard anything. I am wondering whether the Claas dealer is a dead end
Pierre3.
pierre
try any agricultural shop
Pierre3 wrote:
Karlos, I emailed the local Claas dealer, about 30 miles away, and gave them the battery size etc. so I will be interested to see if they come back to me with anything useful.
Pierre3.
pierre3
keep us posted as to what they got
karlos
not sure on the make I'll have a look and let you know
karl
I paid 69 quid for mine from local agricultural dealer
Pierre3 wrote:
I don't mean to have another long thread on batteries, but I wonder if there might be a bit of advice about replacing the battery in my 2001 P38 2.5 DHSE.
I have read though a lot of the other threads and I notice that the preferred choice is the Hankook MF31 - 1000, but I don't think that this is available in Ireland. I have spent a while looking at suppliers in Ireland and the only other option that I can find, that has been recommended on the forum, is the Yuasa HSB334 which is available today in Halfords.
Is the Yuasa a good option, or would I be better to wait until I go to Scotland in July and buy a Hankook ?
Pierre3.
hi mate I took my RR 2.5td to local tractor dealer and said I would like a 1000cca they supplied me with a 644 880cca tractor battery that works well
@Gilbertd I'm going with you option of the resistors as think that will help with every time I move the driver seat the SRS warning comes up on the dash thats problem with height difference in me and the wifey 🤣🤣
welcome to the group @senkop we will all help you here with anything you need to know
glad I could help getting you on the site
no10chris wrote:
got spare engine frome one going to scrap if had space I would of had whole motor
Don’t ever scrap a 4.6, the cranks alone are worth 200-300, becoming rarer to find these days
mine is the diesel engine
GeorgeB wrote:
j_rov wrote:
Anyone else got a second p38 for parts, just in case???
Got me a 4.6HSE in the same colour today spares or repairs. It’s almost good enough to put back on the road, but has all the normal issues!!!
The intention was to use it for parts for The Duchess!
I'd kill for a parts car. Still hunting, still not found!
got spare engine frome one going to scrap if had space I would of had whole motor
- To remove the mirror from the clip, move the mirror assembly around so it is facing away from the car. Use a blunt instrument (like a thick, square ended, ruler) behind the mirror from the inner edge (the edge near the window) to and push onto the centre of a 3cm-4cm part of the plastic clip that sits vertically and which the mirror lugs clip to. The lugs will come away from the clip and you can remove the mirror from the left side first.
- To remove the plastic clip from the assembly, use a small flat-head screwdriver to lever out and un-clip the 8 (or so) tabs from the assembly one at a time by putting the screwdriver into the ~1cm square gaps around the face of the plastic clip and gently lever the outside edge out.
- Use the new plastic clip (or the old one if it is still in one piece) and push back onto the mirror assembly making sure all 8 tabs are fully in place and the plastic clip is flush with the mirror assembly. It only goes on in one place because of a locating tab.
- Connect the electrical connections for the heated mirror and dimming (if available) and then fit the mirror anti-vibration tab into its slot (the black tab sticking out the back of the mirror). The left hand (closest to the car) of the mirror clips in first (where the 2-tabs are), then with your hand on the mirror push firmly away from the car until the long clip on the mirror slots into place. If you get the technique right, it should click into place in only a few seconds
https://youtu.be/uUB431VD96o
hope this helps
@Gilbertd once again your knowledge has come to the rescue again