it's all to do with the metal wiring in the rubber hose and thickness of rubber that determine the psi

Gilbertd yes you see correct on the loading shovel I use the pipes are 125 bar but have 75 bar run through them

oh @Pierre3
the difference between the 2 pipes IE high and low pressure is the high pressure hose feeds the steering ram and the low is returning to the resovier
the reason you was quoted that much is because with out the pattern pipe the pipe manufacture wouldn't know the PSI rating of both pipes

keep is updated @Pierre3

Gilbertd wrote:

Pierre has a late model diesel and it seems the high pressure pipe is NLA but the same pipe for the earlier one is. He's wondering what the difference is and can he fit an early pipe to a later car? The steering box is the same and if the pump is the same and in the same place, I can't see any reason why he can't use the earlier one.

the difference between high pressure pipes and low pressure is the pipe wire thickness on the power steering the high pressure one is the feed and low pressure is the return back to the resivour the reason the company is asking to see the pipes is so they can get the right PSI pipe

I swapped the whole lot pumps and pipes from a 96 to a 2000 I had no problems with it they both looked the same

Gilbertd wrote:

If you changed the pump, does that mean that the outlet is in a different place? If so, that would explain why the pipes are different.

the outlet was the same on diesels I'm not sure about V8 to be honest

Pierre3 wrote:

I have looked at having them made up, but when I asked one hydraulics company in Dublin they didn't want to know. They said that they could quote me but, as a one-off item, and without have an exact pattern they were talking about €800 - €900 !!! The ones that are available at the moment, the low pressure correct pipe, and the high pressure one from the earlier car, would only cost about €250 together.

I can't find a diagram anywhere showing the routing or shape of a 1994 P38 steering pipes, which would make me think that my contact is correct in saying that the high pressure pipe from the earlier P38 will fit the later 2001 car. I can only find one diagram which, to me, would indicate that there is only one diagram for both models of car.

Again, I wonder whether anyone has any knowledge of this.

Pierre3.

your right the older models will fit new
I put a 97 pump and pipes on my 2000 2.5td p38 when I had it
also took old pipes to local hydraulic pipe makers and they told me they can make replacement ones the S shape rubber is made in time with the pipes fixed in place

well done mate do you think you could get all the 8's

1Steven wrote:

They are good radiators 👍

yes the hold more so don't get so hot as quick

sorry was I forgot to state it come from a diesel p38
also got some cream leather seats they from a older model than I had so don't have the SRS wires in the base just the heated seat wires

https://ibb.co/cxQb4vV "enter image title here")

would any one be interested in this alloy rad 100 quid before I scrap if cam off my old off roader but no longer have it or p38
location norfolk

glad you got it sorted out and back up and running again

mad-as wrote:

i have small stick on ones that fit the p38 , they stop the noise when the window is just cracked , no thumping in the ears
PS stuck on properly they will not come off , use the prepping fluid .

thats the sort of thing I'm looking for I normally have window open a little when driving

a few people have said that they don't work to well on RR

the ones I was looking at had the clips that go in to the window channel I wasn't to sure it they would be ok or weather to go for the ones that stick on the side of the door trim

hi folks I'm thinking about putting wind deflectors on our RRS (I know not a p38) just wondering what are people's go to brands been looking at a few just not sure if to go for the stick on ones or the ones that come with the holders ?

JeremyAldermartenQC wrote:

karlos01 wrote:

" to undo the bolt you will need a special socket and mark the pump top lid and the side so you can relive the parts back together as it doesn't take much for it to be out and either run to rich or not rum at all
you will need a 7mm triangular socket to remove the securing screw."

Thanks karlos01. I'm only removing the top cover. I believe that it is the next bit down (the actuator, which has elongated screw holes in it) that affects the running of the engine, the gasket there being called the 'positioning gasket'.My understanding is that the top cover (which has small circular holes) only goes on in one position and does not need marking. Only the tamper-proof screw goes through both the top cover and the actuator; the top cover has three short T30 screws into the top of the actuator. Thanks for confirming that the 7mm socket is the one I need. That is what I thought.

the tamper screw does go through the top and middle sections t30 screws on the top I would still mark both just incase something moves out of line it is a p38 after all lol I marked mine just to be on the safe side

to undo the bolt you will need a special socket and mark the pump top lid and the side so you can relive the parts back together as it doesn't take much for it to be out and either run to rich or not rum at all
you will need a 7mm triangular socket to remove the securing screw

no I don't think it does as some of that voltage goes back to the battery

welcome to the group as people have already mentioned there are some knowledgeable people in the group and I'm sure you pass on your knowledge to