I swapped the whole lot pumps and pipes from a 96 to a 2000 I had no problems with it they both looked the same
Gilbertd wrote:
If you changed the pump, does that mean that the outlet is in a different place? If so, that would explain why the pipes are different.
the outlet was the same on diesels I'm not sure about V8 to be honest
Pierre3 wrote:
I have looked at having them made up, but when I asked one hydraulics company in Dublin they didn't want to know. They said that they could quote me but, as a one-off item, and without have an exact pattern they were talking about €800 - €900 !!! The ones that are available at the moment, the low pressure correct pipe, and the high pressure one from the earlier car, would only cost about €250 together.
I can't find a diagram anywhere showing the routing or shape of a 1994 P38 steering pipes, which would make me think that my contact is correct in saying that the high pressure pipe from the earlier P38 will fit the later 2001 car. I can only find one diagram which, to me, would indicate that there is only one diagram for both models of car.
Again, I wonder whether anyone has any knowledge of this.
Pierre3.
your right the older models will fit new
I put a 97 pump and pipes on my 2000 2.5td p38 when I had it
also took old pipes to local hydraulic pipe makers and they told me they can make replacement ones the S shape rubber is made in time with the pipes fixed in place
well done mate do you think you could get all the 8's
sorry was I forgot to state it come from a diesel p38
also got some cream leather seats they from a older model than I had so don't have the SRS wires in the base just the heated seat wires
https://ibb.co/cxQb4vV "enter image title here")
would any one be interested in this alloy rad 100 quid before I scrap if cam off my old off roader but no longer have it or p38
location norfolk
glad you got it sorted out and back up and running again
mad-as wrote:
i have small stick on ones that fit the p38 , they stop the noise when the window is just cracked , no thumping in the ears
PS stuck on properly they will not come off , use the prepping fluid .
thats the sort of thing I'm looking for I normally have window open a little when driving
a few people have said that they don't work to well on RR
the ones I was looking at had the clips that go in to the window channel I wasn't to sure it they would be ok or weather to go for the ones that stick on the side of the door trim
hi folks I'm thinking about putting wind deflectors on our RRS (I know not a p38) just wondering what are people's go to brands been looking at a few just not sure if to go for the stick on ones or the ones that come with the holders ?
JeremyAldermartenQC wrote:
karlos01 wrote:
" to undo the bolt you will need a special socket and mark the pump top lid and the side so you can relive the parts back together as it doesn't take much for it to be out and either run to rich or not rum at all
you will need a 7mm triangular socket to remove the securing screw."Thanks karlos01. I'm only removing the top cover. I believe that it is the next bit down (the actuator, which has elongated screw holes in it) that affects the running of the engine, the gasket there being called the 'positioning gasket'.My understanding is that the top cover (which has small circular holes) only goes on in one position and does not need marking. Only the tamper-proof screw goes through both the top cover and the actuator; the top cover has three short T30 screws into the top of the actuator. Thanks for confirming that the 7mm socket is the one I need. That is what I thought.
the tamper screw does go through the top and middle sections t30 screws on the top I would still mark both just incase something moves out of line it is a p38 after all lol I marked mine just to be on the safe side
to undo the bolt you will need a special socket and mark the pump top lid and the side so you can relive the parts back together as it doesn't take much for it to be out and either run to rich or not rum at all
you will need a 7mm triangular socket to remove the securing screw
no I don't think it does as some of that voltage goes back to the battery
welcome to the group as people have already mentioned there are some knowledgeable people in the group and I'm sure you pass on your knowledge to
juts remember to mark the too of the pump with the engine when you take the top off the way you can line it up nd shouldn't have to use a dial to reset the pump
it can be done just watch the video a few times
yeah it will have a maf sensor would be just under the inlet manifold