JeremyAldermartenQC wrote:
karlos01 wrote:
" to undo the bolt you will need a special socket and mark the pump top lid and the side so you can relive the parts back together as it doesn't take much for it to be out and either run to rich or not rum at all
you will need a 7mm triangular socket to remove the securing screw."Thanks karlos01. I'm only removing the top cover. I believe that it is the next bit down (the actuator, which has elongated screw holes in it) that affects the running of the engine, the gasket there being called the 'positioning gasket'.My understanding is that the top cover (which has small circular holes) only goes on in one position and does not need marking. Only the tamper-proof screw goes through both the top cover and the actuator; the top cover has three short T30 screws into the top of the actuator. Thanks for confirming that the 7mm socket is the one I need. That is what I thought.
the tamper screw does go through the top and middle sections t30 screws on the top I would still mark both just incase something moves out of line it is a p38 after all lol I marked mine just to be on the safe side
to undo the bolt you will need a special socket and mark the pump top lid and the side so you can relive the parts back together as it doesn't take much for it to be out and either run to rich or not rum at all
you will need a 7mm triangular socket to remove the securing screw
no I don't think it does as some of that voltage goes back to the battery
welcome to the group as people have already mentioned there are some knowledgeable people in the group and I'm sure you pass on your knowledge to
juts remember to mark the too of the pump with the engine when you take the top off the way you can line it up nd shouldn't have to use a dial to reset the pump
it can be done just watch the video a few times
yeah it will have a maf sensor would be just under the inlet manifold
I would get it fixed/replaced if you know someone that way you know it shouldn't fail on it
can be done by attaching a gauge to the air tank line
You will have to connect it to the blue pipe from the compressor. But it will not be causing a soft fault. If you take the blue pipe off the compressor and put your finger over the outlet and it blows your finger off no matter how much pressure you put on it, air pressure is good enough. If you can stop it compressor needs refurb. There are no fault codes for compressor operation. It either gives enough air to charge the system or it doesn't.
have a look around the injector pump and the injectors for a sign of leaking first mate
the main places the injector pump leaks is the top seal middle one or the head one the head one is the one with the pipes to the injectors
they basically telling you to fit a hot box to the p38 it fools the timing ot the ecu that the engine is cold even though engine is hot thus keeping the glow plug cycle running on every time the engine is turned over
hope this helps
next time before you start open the bonnet and have look at the clear pipe from filter to the pump get someone to turn the key while you cheack I had a leaking injection pump on mine and was a pig to start took a good 20-30 seconds of turning over to start
dhallworth wrote:
If it’s a Range Rover Sport it’ll be an L320, if it’s a full size Range Rover it’ll be an L322.
Both very different cars as the Sport is basically a Discovery whereas the L322 is unique to itself.
Does your car have a split tailgate like the P38?
it's the L320 sports model with the split tailgate
merry Christmas to you to
on a personal note I just want to say thank you so much for your help and information over the last few days it has been much appreciated
if anyone on here has anything to ask please don't be afraid to ask Gilbertd I'm sure he will help you like he has helped me out with his knowledge
came up as a l320 4.2 on a parts search I did this morning
hello folk I know it not a p38 bit would you guys know the best place to down loads a manual for my new toy please as always handy to have one
looked on Haynes bit the don't have one to cover my 56plate sport
thanks folks
hi guys sadly I've had to put my old girl up for sale on social media she up for. spares or repair I just don't have time to fix her up properly be shame but would be nice if it was kept on the road
it's a 2.5td on a W plate got it up for 1200 ono with spare engine from older mode and other spares
would any of yous be interested in it ?
ball joint radius arm bushes have been done
Injector pump pump leaks have got seal kit (spare engine has pump with it)
sadly no mot as it been stood up for a year only advisorys on last mot was oil leak cover for seat belt clasp missing and near side fro the drag link ball joints has slight play
and it still on air
Richard tou hit the nail on the head I believe when you take a trailer test it should teach weight distribution and the test should be done with a loaded trailer
when I did my class 2 hgv test it was in a empty 12t box lorry luckily I had driven loads before so knew abit more about pulling away and breaking distance would be greatly affected