GeorgeB wrote:
j_rov wrote:
Anyone else got a second p38 for parts, just in case???
Got me a 4.6HSE in the same colour today spares or repairs. It’s almost good enough to put back on the road, but has all the normal issues!!!
The intention was to use it for parts for The Duchess!
I'd kill for a parts car. Still hunting, still not found!
got spare engine frome one going to scrap if had space I would of had whole motor
- To remove the mirror from the clip, move the mirror assembly around so it is facing away from the car. Use a blunt instrument (like a thick, square ended, ruler) behind the mirror from the inner edge (the edge near the window) to and push onto the centre of a 3cm-4cm part of the plastic clip that sits vertically and which the mirror lugs clip to. The lugs will come away from the clip and you can remove the mirror from the left side first.
- To remove the plastic clip from the assembly, use a small flat-head screwdriver to lever out and un-clip the 8 (or so) tabs from the assembly one at a time by putting the screwdriver into the ~1cm square gaps around the face of the plastic clip and gently lever the outside edge out.
- Use the new plastic clip (or the old one if it is still in one piece) and push back onto the mirror assembly making sure all 8 tabs are fully in place and the plastic clip is flush with the mirror assembly. It only goes on in one place because of a locating tab.
- Connect the electrical connections for the heated mirror and dimming (if available) and then fit the mirror anti-vibration tab into its slot (the black tab sticking out the back of the mirror). The left hand (closest to the car) of the mirror clips in first (where the 2-tabs are), then with your hand on the mirror push firmly away from the car until the long clip on the mirror slots into place. If you get the technique right, it should click into place in only a few seconds
https://youtu.be/uUB431VD96o
hope this helps
@Gilbertd once again your knowledge has come to the rescue again
leolito wrote:
(I do not see photos if any).
If you want to play, you can mix and match what you want... I remade my seats re-utilizing my bases (with SRS) and padding from an earlier model seat, but in better condition, and with the leather from a third seat :-)
there are pics it might not be showing them
might just keep my seats in and take the heated part out of the cream ones as I know they work
I'll have to get a set of them then
thanks for the link to them Gilbertd
the ones I've got in are ash grey and the ones be given are cream if change the bases do you mean the padding or the whole base
hi I've been given some seats for my p38 2.5td on a 2000 plate
the new seats came from older model as only has 2 wires for the heated seats (they still work 🤣🤣) 
the new seats
seats in mine now
as you can see mine has the built in srs system the old ones don't
so question is there a way to transfer my srs system from mine to the ones I've been given?
not sure but they might of been optional extra
I missed them ones off the list
your lucky if no srs or abs lights on the dash
no10chris wrote:
What’s normal issues ?
probably SRS lights and ABS sensors lights on with the occasional ball joints need doing and not forgetting the standard oil leak 😅😅
Pierre3 wrote:
Ah-ha, I thought that there might be some reason why people don't all drive around on cheap LPG !! Lots of people in Ireland used to use "red" diesel in their cars, if they were farmers or road hauliers, but it always caught up with them because diesel cars aren't really designed to run on red diesel, it makes them rather smoky, if I remember.
Pierre3.
the only reason red diesel smokes more is cause the dye in it but they put the red dye in so you couldn't run on red and the police could dip your tank as it was a lot cheaper than white to buy and the HMRC missed out on vat
stainless might be more expensive than mild steel but it does change the note of the engine the V8 will have more of a burbble to it with stainless steel than a mild steel exhaust
me and neighbour both have 2.5td engines he on mild steel exhaust and I'm on stainless and mine is a lot deeper grumble when ticking over
DavidAll wrote:
I've seen in the manual something about putting in fuse 11 to get it into neutral.
pop a 5amp fuse in to slot 11 under the driver seat of the RR then turn the engine on it will put transfer box in nuteral so it thinks it being towed
Symes wrote:
That's a very good idea could save you money in long term mate
it makes sence to get a spare would of been silly to let it go for scrap
thought volvo would bd the first to use it
davew wrote:
Or even:
https://electrek.co/2020/11/05/tesla-tsla-order-tesla-semi-electric-trucks-biggest-yet/
Plus perhaps.....
thaylook hideous I think I would have a new defender shape than one of them 🤣🤣
think it 35000kg is the towing compatibility of the p38 iknow a V8 is capable not sure how a diesel will cope though
Gilbertd wrote:
At least two HGV manufacturers are now producing LPG powered trucks and there's also a few running on CNG and Hydrogen......
thats good then do you know what the ranges are I know the volvo fh12 do about 9-10mpg loaded up