because your not home so options are minimal find a screw driver and remove the switch panel and gear lever cover and give it s bit or lube to loosen up the linkages and look for objects that might cause issues . may be useless but might get you home to, 10 minute job but it dose hint that its the xyz switch

this has been done before by someone in NSW , this maybe the same vehicle ?if so it has issues such as if you take off with gusto so to speak it will go into limp mode unless you wait for it to select second gear . also it involves alot of machine work to adapt the motor and transmission to mate up(theres a rightup on RRnet somewhere with pics)
just to note when Martin done his LS swap he quickly found out that the ZF trans was simply not up to the task of handling the LS motor, it exploded, which is why he put the 4l60e trans in it , also the engine mounts need to be rehashed as he basically ripped them from the frame on the rover which explains the cracks in the mounts . while its a good job and looks neat and tidy it dose have some little issues , but it is a prototype so to speak so its a good start .

i had my rear door done after i smashed it , the tint shop used 30% as a match for the other windows . plenty dark enough, if its to dark you will not see out the back window , a real shit to back up in the dark.

Lpgc wrote:

I can see why people would save money fitting a stainless system over a more expensive OEM exhaust, in this case they're saving money.

Remember Janspeed from my boy racer days, didn't know they were still going!

Obviously if you're paying for OEM cats it'll be expensive.

Is there no in-between - A mild steel system that lasts nearly as long as OEM but cheaper than stainless? The last exhaust I bought was for a Grand Voyager, cost me £90. Went for that instead of a stainless system that would have cost many times more.

It occurred to me to bring this subject up here because I'm on another forum where the subject vehicle has a problem with failing front cats (they have 4 cats in total) causing blockages that then see cat material enter the engine wrecking it. Someone bought an expensive stainless system complete with aftermarket front cats but the engine has recently started using loads of oil and the most likely reason for that is failed front cats (which in this case would be the expensive aftermarket stainless cats). My advice would have been keep the original exhaust but decore the front cats.... It would be ironic if the owner spent over the odds for aftermarket front cats and full stainless system to prevent problems if the expensive mods caused the same problems as the original exhaust system can cause while if they'd simply kept the existing exhaust but had cats cut out they wouldn't have had any problems.

how dose the cat damage the engine to make it burn oil, it can only bloke of the exhaust i thought or cause a restriction ?

i fitted a stainless exhaust to my classic in 1993 and its steel their, replaced the clamps and brackets 3 or 4 times , still as good as when it was put on.
it was custom made not off the shelf .

the temps in my area are around -2 or 3 up to 35ish , in other places it varies between -10+ Liawenee (lakes area) i have never been their, to 40dec east coast off the state . even with these temps i dont use anti freeze as it is a once a year event so to speak and you have to be in that spot .if i lived at Liawenee i would use it but i dont . i do go to cold areas but i dont stay over night . my car is usually under cover when not being used and if it was a problem i would just drain it
PS my mechanic teacher retired shortly after a completed my coarse so he was of that age bracket you speak off and it was a comment that just stuck in my head so i mentioned it and now its a little clearer as i have never challenged it
as a comment of how hot you can run something , i once came off the cape beach in my series 2A landy(with Holden motor fitted cast everything the mighty 186 red motor )) in 2nd gear with the wind for 10km 4500rpm temps 117dec boiled at 118, oil pressure disappeared halve way along beach which was a worry but could not stop as it would have bogged down in the soft sand and would have lost it to the sea so nothing to loose really, got to the end turned into the wind and in 20 seconds the temps dropped and the oil pressure came back , drove home no problems and it only had water in the radiator no coolant of any description. that motor was still in it when i sold it 2 years later.

a twenty minute job is only one broken bolt away from becoming a 3 day job:😂

i think i need to explain my comment
back in the eighties when i done my mechanics coarse the teacher stated that if you was going up to the lakes (our cold area in the mountains) that you needed to change your coolant as the anti freeze component of the coolant would have evaporated out over time as its alcohol based .
now i think David hit the nail on the head when he said its a closed system , back in the eighties cars didnt have closed sealed systems like today , they vented into a vented container or just vented to the atmosphere where now they are sealed so no evaporation can happen. while this may have been relevant then its probably not so much today . back in the days of just using water from the tap and the use of coolant started to be used because things were being made from aluminium, water pumps, heads etc and the water just ate out the aluminium parts. its only in extreme cases that you need to use anti freeze anti boil products instead or just an inhibitor (i think some of yous live in these extreme areas)
PS i only use inhibitor and have never had over heating or freezing issues ever, also never had issues with corrosion of any description.
i hope that makes sense of my comment.

just to add to the costs , hybrids will be charged at 2 cents a km.
IMHO i think their is a place for EVs , and that is the city and heavy populated areas . they are not suitable for long hauls or towing period. the hybrids are better but still have their short comings, weight, price, etc. we are a long way from this becoming a real thing unless things change. the materials for there construction is a big issue , copper and lithium are just not available in the quantities required and to have different plugs is just plain dumb
the governments should be pushing that EVs will improve the health of people that live in heavily populated areas to reduce the grey haze that covers cities and drop the ridiculous carbon rubbish as this is just lies and people know it . they dont say anything because they dont want to be attacked by wankers who think the world is going to end

i filled my rover from empty only to find it only took 75L to fill 25Ls as the reserve, the book says 8Ls ? also when i filled it it never read full for the first couple off times always a bar below but it now reads right ?

Gilbertd wrote:

mad-as wrote:

Question , with anti freeze how dose it work when the anti freeze bit evaporates at around 75 dec when thermostats run at 82+ dec . do you have a specific thermostat for colder areas ?

Huh? Neat Ethylene Glycol has a boiling point, the temperature at which it will evaporate, of 197 degrees C, so if mixed 50/50 with water, with a boiling point of 100 degrees C, that means the coolant will have a boiling point of around 149 degrees. But that is at atmospheric pressure and the reason the cooling system is pressurised is to raise the boiling point even further. Hence you can often run at 120 degrees without it boiling over as long as the pressure cap is good and it doesn't spit the coolant out (then you overheat due to a lack of coolant). That's why running on plain water isn't a good idea as, other than it corrodes the engine and clogs the waterways, it has a lower boiling point that an anti-freeze mix.

No idea what the spec of this orange OAT stuff they recommend for the Thor is though.

on the bottle it says anti freeze anti boil , you explained the boil part (that bit we know) but the bit that stops it from freezing is what i was asking , if it boils out at 75 deg and the car runs at 82 deg then its no longer anti freeze , so how dose it do the two jobs when one part is over cooked, so to speak, bye the other part
in other words is it one or the other . i dont live in this type of climate and i dont use it ,i just use inhibitor. so how do you stop it freezing without the plug in heater system i hear of occasionally. so how cool is to cool:😀 the other end of the story.

my experience with the cooling system in rovers in general is quite good , the only things that cause temp rises is worn impellers on water pumps blocked rads or the fins have rotted (generally copper core rads). thermostats can be a problem but they generally work or dont work , most thermostats have the temp stamped on them , also dont discard a bad earth to the engine, this can really screw with your temps
Question , with anti freeze how dose it work when the anti freeze bit evaporates at around 75 dec when thermostats run at 82+ dec . do you have a specific thermostat for colder areas ?
PS i dont think i would like running my motor at that lower temp, not very efficient?

Australia will be the first country to charge EVs for road use . and not before time . it will be 2.5 cents per km .Apparently NSW Victoria will introduce the charges for road use and the EV ers are not happy , they are saying it will reduce EV car sales 🤣 . i say about time they started to paying their way , this is around 25% of the costs that the rest of us are picking up for them , its time to pay all of the costs so that the actual cost is real not this artificial concept that persists now . if they want it they need to understand that its not as cheap or reliable as they make out . no more freebies or hand outs , its time to pick up the bill.😂 reality is a bitch and its only the start.
i say its a good thing , whats your opinion ?

if you have separated the slip joint on the prop shaft there should be a punch mark on the actual spline and the inner for you to alien for reassembly
look at the outer ring and the end off the shaft

i think the insurance company will class it as wear and tear and say no , its like saying my paint has faded i want my car resprayed . i will be surprised if they say yes,but no harm in asking thou
PS if the heated wind screen is classed as a safety feature with the vehicle it may have to have a heated screen fitted for it to pass rego or mot or what ever its called. some of the rules are ridiculous now days when it comes to this stuff .

use a piece of wood or soft hammer and gently hit the journal and wiggle it out . it could have silastic holding it

was it your favorite::😊

no sorry not here, classics are not respected here and the ones i have are only parts mostly , he may be able to make one from all 4 . i have a friend with about 10 2 door classics and hasn't sold a part for years but he is still buying them when he finds them. there is a 2 door for sale locally and he can not get $6000 for it and its reasonable condition. i payed $400 dollars for 3 of them, thats the value here. as for the p38s one is parts the other has a over heating problem but is complete so repairable .

i do tend to agree that 22'' rims are ridiculously over the top . definitely a bit of bling. i had to remove them so i could move the rover , just so you know at 10'' wide you can not steer or really move it as it wanted to rip out the inner guards, so if anyone is interested the tires are near new accept they are perished so no good and yes even flat they looked like they had air in them
PS i was thinking i could put two off them on and take a picture and then take them off. i don't think i could get out off the paddock without damaging them. to sum it all up, what a waste off money:":😂
i swapped 2 p38s for the 4 classics that i had so if anyone wants some parts let me know i may have one.

is there a way of testing these amps or do you just fit them and hope for the best . the amp sub woofer cd player(is it all one or is the amp separate? ) in my daily drive has been removed but i have others in the wrecks i have so can they be tested before installing?