i went and payed a bill today came out and the rover would not go . turned the key a couple of times up came engine disable , want the f.... is going on . jumped out locked the car unlocked the car put the key in the ignition ,, still bloody nothing no alarms nothing ,started swearing at the dog , bitched for a bit and then noticed it was in drive not park , put it in park fired right up , bloody safety features !!!!

outside of the stainless ends i dont see any real benefit . the problem with brake lines is usually the inside closes up from the reaction from the brake fluid more so the outer rubber deteriorating or the ends rust as you mentioned . its rare to have a rubber brake line fail unless its been stretched or fiscally damaged, and as mentioned you shouldn't crimp as that can pinch the rubber lines and cause a failure
at the end of the day its about personal choice and costs , are they affordable or expensive in comparison to standard lines?

you will want mains, big ends and a set of rings . thats the minimum . if their is no lip at the top of the bore then a light hone and another set of rings , if their is a lip then i recommend boring to clean up the bore. it will be outer round? this will require pistons and rings(over sized usually 20 thou)
crank grind if worn or ruffed up
cam bearings replaced have this done when being bored
welsh plugs
if you not comfortable fitting the crank or any other part just ask the engine repairer how or if they can do it for you.
hope that helps, or a least confuses the crap out of you. its not hard , nothing money and time wont fix like all repairs, keep it clean.

here in Australia braided lines are not allowed on registered vehicles only play toys . i replaced the rubber lines on my 64 beetle (buggy ) they where 50 years old . how long do you want them to last .
the braiding on the lines can wear and mark the rubber hose under it so its not a good idea in my book as the wear comes from the outside . thats my 2 cents worth , not worth the expense IMHO

its more about cost , if you can afford to replace, buy as a kit , thats a quality branded kit not some Chinese or unnamed white box ?you have to dismantle to see if its worn . the wear will be on the bottom of the shaft and rockers , just move the rockers around and look for wear , slide them half of the seat area and see if it has wear around these areas , turn the rocker upside down and see if the clearance is different , this will show the wear in the rocker . if you want to clean the shafts use something like brasso ( non abrasive liquid polish). in some cases its very obvious and other not so, its now up to your discretion or the repairer
PS whats the inside of the motor like?

if he takes 10 thou of one head he will take it off the other or they will be unbalanced , if he removes the valves he will most likely reface them and do the seats on the heads as well, and fit new valve stem seals
as for the rocker gear if you dismantle you will see the hard metal on the shafts has most likely worn while the rockers are most likely good(its strange how the hard steels wear against the softer alloys) so i would replace the shafts before the rocker gear unless the rocker gear has wear then do it all.
how is the appearance of the inside of the motor , is it black and crusty or oily and clean

welcome to the pub

when it came to removing the screw that holds the o rings i drilled the head off it , took about 2 minutes . the screw will not undo as it had rusted from the back . with the dash out i removed the pipe work and removed the screw from the other side , easy. you dont have to remove the dash the pipes come out easily anyway

i replaced my o rings about 2 years or so ago , no leaks . i think when people do this they over tighten the screw that holds the o rings in and either crack the housing or damage the o rings , the system needs to be able to move with thermal expansion. that's my 2 cents worth

welcome to the pub

according to AULRO .com Ritters in Melbourne do the conversion , was going to start there

we do have a company in Australia that is a distributor for ashcrofts . i will ring them .
i was hoping someone had done this and they could offer some advice . i think all i need is a new flex plate and a boss to bolt on to the crank and a hole saw to get access to the bolts that hold it together . i will sort this and reply hopefully with some details.

i have looked at Ashcrofts and apparently i need a new flex plate and another boss to bolt to crank to take the new flex plate . its also recommending it be remapped to get full advantage of the bigger torque converter . the hp22 gearbox is already fitted to these models its just the torque converter thats different apparently
was hoping someone else had already done this and could offer some advise .
yes its a TD5 so its a diesel , the smaller torque converter in the diesels is a problem apparently , the original has done the torque converter and destroyed the box as well which is the reason for the upgraded torque converter .

first question is will it fit . can you take a hp22 from a p38 and fit it to a TD5 disco , its the torque converter thats the problem. the disco trans has 3 bolts holding the torque converter and a different flex plate , the p38 one has 4 bolts and a larger torque converter . considering that the torque converter in the disco has shit its self with the pump , (apparently its a common problem) can the bigger converter be fitted , if so what is required to do this or do you need to use the original converter with a different flex plate set up. any info would be appreciated

if you want a tow bar David i have a hayman reese tow bar , just to add to the fiasco of my broken tail gate (attacked by the lawn mower ) when looking for another tail gate i found a heap of parts for almost nothing i stopped of at a friends place to give him a gearbox and some sundry items for his disco and he turns around and gives me his p38 , so now i have 2 complete cars and lots of parts .
apparently it doesn't matter where you park them they still accumulate, safety in numbers.

when i brought my first classic i would park it and when you come back their would be 3 or 4 more parked beside you even p38s , one bloke drove past half a dozen spots just to park beside me , gave me the acknowledgement nod as he walked off. must be something to it .

if you want a plastic that can be turned up on a lathe you need to look for a product called pactene , it's like a soft perspex, it's the white plastic that parts are made from. its a polyurethane product i think. comes in different colors for different strengths i think
commonly used here for packers to life the bodys up on 4wds

i didn't say they worked , just asking to see if its withe the trouble . i spend a lot of time in the passenger seat and its bloody drafty . with my new additions i was thinking i could donate the seats and benefit from them
my rover is an SE model (Seated Edition) comes with seats , the other that i picked up is an HSE model (Hot Seated Edition) i dont know what else those letters stand for :)
PS now that it can simply be done i will see if they work and can they be fixed, at the present the seats in the FJ are racing style , climb in and out PITA stuff, so just leather seats on there own would be a blessing . lets just hope i can get them to work.

thank you sloth .

just to clarify when i say other car i am referring to a FJ 40 land cruiser. its an open top vehicle and has no heaters at all