have cut many a filter apart, its the easiest way to see whats going on inside their . this may be a contentious thing to say but i generally don't change my filters for 3 or 4 oil changes as a blocked filter works better than a new one?

with the dash out i think its 2 screws up near the winscreen and it lifts out ,dont forget the heater hoses but you will be doing the orings as well i would imagine. doesn't affect the AC

yes this tank was an external tank , leaked around the seal on the actual tank where the level indicator is mounted , easy to see it was iced up . the long piece off wire was the option i was going with for the other tanks .

yes you are right Richard if you are the lucky person to purchase a car on gas thats not 10 years old you get the savings straight away , unfortunately the original purchaser gets nothing as there is no resale value of the unit . with the standards in Europe you have reason to do it as well
PS my daughter purchased a patrol on gas and then found out when she brought it into tassie it had to be inspected , this was a 1000 dollar job plus a new tank or 250 dollars to remove . it was removed , the tank which was still halve full sat in the yard for 2 or 3 months and then started to leak , it took 2 days to empty , the tank was just over the 10 year mark . i have 2 other gas tanks with gas in them that are considerably older so i would like to empty them , is their a safe way to do that or just put power to soliniod and open valve and leave it in the paddock to vent

if you have removed the dash fix the air box . it has to be removed completely and taken apart , free up all the flaps . when you are done the flaps will move with the flick of a finger. the problem with plastic is the solvents in it dry out and the plastics shrink (thats why dashes in cars rattle after several years) making the flaps hard to move , sand the ends where the flaps insert into box and give it around 2 mm clearance on the shafts . just unclip the clips holding it together and it will fall in halve , a power file is good to use , may take a couple of goes to get it right but you will not have to deal with this issue again . don't forget the white drive gear on the distribution motor this can be tight to so may need some attention to . why patch when you can fix it properly.

you forgot one small thing David , the installation costs in Australia, last i checked it was around 3500 dollars with a government discount . with the cost of petrol and the price of the gas its not something you will ever recover your costs . gas in Aust should be the cheapest in the world but we pay more than the open market price for it thanks to the howard govenment . then it has to be checked and the tanks replaced etc, all extra costs . the savings are just not their in my opinion for Australian cars.

i put nickle anti seize on both, i don't care if they undo from the head or the nut as long as they come undone . use stainless steel as a thread stock for studs and brass nuts if you can get them . i wouldn't use zinc or galvo i think they react with the aluminium

have you ever noticed that if you fix one thing another thing will follow , replaced my rear shocks yesterday to drive down the road for a test to find i needed a set of rear brake pads , is it just jealousy, look at me , look at me .

and how much of this income that the government takes is used for emission reductions and how much goes into revenue, very little i suspect all revenue.

all will be good until you need to use your rover ,climb a hill, tow a trailer, drive in the direction the wind is going and then you will understand that thermo fans are , whats the word , that's right, useless . i have tried it others i know have done it all have the same result, ok until you need to do something and then they do not have the capacity to do the job. i highly recommend you do not fit an aux fan to any working vehicle . ok for the boy racer that does blokies and can stop when needed no good in a 4wd . that's my 2cents worth , sorry it's not what you wanted to hear.
PS put your fan back on .

thats not good , it will crack full length in no time , sometimes you can push lightly on the inside and direct the crack to the edge but yours is in the middle heading for the sides , you really have no where to go with it except for a replacement . if you have expensive wiper blades may pay to replace with cheap ones until you do replace the screen.

my 83 classic has a brass tank , the only thing wrong with it is the paint is flaking off and thats nearly 40 years old . i do understand the crappy plastic problems , especially the Chinese rubbish and if i was to spend that amount of money on a tank it would look just like the one you going to purchase , i do like shiny things to . i tend to make alot of pieces from stainless steel ,polish the welds clean it all up, and then paint it black . i am a little surprised the rover dosnt have a low water alarm its got everything else that gets hot. its whatever gives you piece of mind Bolt and sometimes its good to get something that just fits and works , and thats why you pay a little extra . it is a good looking tank and it will be interested to see the finished product in place. it looks a more compact unit so it might make working in that area easier , maybe.

its a bit more than just a tank and a level switch bolt , its a purpose built unit to fit and thats exactly what you would expect for that money , but when your a cheap ass like me you always look at something and think, i could make a bracket for that ....

$300 dollars give you a lot of options?

if you offset the rack you will block off your tail lights then you will have to put some form of lights in your rear bumper like in a pootrol . its a lot easier to move the number plate than the lights?
PS in Australia patrols have their lights in the bumper because the spare is on the back door and the visual for the rear brake is obscurer ed so they tell me , thats why the rear lights on most patrols dont work they dont even have holes to put the globes in , but you can buy them and simply plug them in.

just looked at your pics very good , as for the swivel pin assembly most use a stub axle from a trailer for ease of assembly. (off the shelf component) just a thought .

sport mode also has influence when negotiating in hill descent low range (it may stop the TQ from locking up, not 100% shore ) its suppose to do something ?
basically it changes the shift pattern only .

when it came to testing my MAF i made up a wire loom to pin test the unit with a multi meter. you can stick pins in the plugs but that damages the wiring . i just used utilux cable clips , cut and grind them down to fit in the female ends and cut the other in halve and squash together for the male ends. put heat shrink on the open ends so not to short out anything (if you put power though the signal wire on the MAF you will be looking for a new ECU)
from memory their is 3 wires
power wire has 12v runs hotwire
signal wire will vary with load read from .1v to 5v the reading from this should be stable , increase and decrease evenly , not erratic, if it jumps around its likely a faulty MAF
other will have 5v from ECU
do not put 12v through signal wire it will blow up the ECU.
please note that there is alot off variables associated with the maf , it is a trimming devise for the ECU to set up fuel injection rates in association with air temp water temp engine temp etc etc , if you have other influences eg gas injection it will interfere with readings as it calibrates for it
the only way i could test my MAF was with a test cable and a multi meter. well thats my 2 cents worth hope that helps .

wilts it looks bad it could of been worse ,lucky

well im going away tomorrow so we have some work to do , well at least talk about what work we should be doing
do we get fireworks :)