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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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yes the electronic set ups are for models that didnt have the electronics to start with , this is a D2 so has the electronics to run the EH box .

have forgot to ask about this , he struck a problem and stopped, couldn't get to the bolts , will give some direction for the info he needs as he couldn't find it ,he was also told that he would need a computer to run it but i think that is only required if you don;t have an electronic model eg defender .

hi dave spoke with dale about his issue , he has replaced the intank pump but it did not fix the problem . asked about the 3rd pump apparently there is a intank pump an external pump outside the tank and the main pressure pump?have looked for leaks but did not find anything. he is using SCOPE as his diagnostics (i think thats what it was called) runs through a dongle to a phone app, appeared to work ok. just a side note i think i heard it miss a couple of times but this could have been the ac kicking in but it didnt sound right ?

Morat wrote:

or not need a fuel pump!

so what is the towing capacity off an electric 4wd, 3500kg is the base limit , my shack is 300km return , sorry not really an option is it .

yes that's very right Richard , if i was to buy a new car today i really don't know what i would actually buy but it would hopefully have access to the fuel pump 😁 😁

the big reason for these issues is the cost , you do know that every p38 sold was sold at a loss , i think it was a billion dollars or more loss. it was the cost factor why they didn't put the 4.4 v8 in along with other things . but a hole in the floor for access to the fuel pump would be handy .to look at it in hindsight now and comment is easy. you have to make the odd mistake to learn what not to do or how to do it properly. if it was made today it would be different , well i would hope so ....

i brought some shit part shocks , its all in the name! just saying.

for those that don't know what the gap is for , it tells the ecu where top dead center is on start up, so it knows where it is and when to fire.

when my switch pack stopped i started by using the multi meter from the power pin in to the next hole in the board to find where the power stopped ,(use the ohm setting) just follow the the tracks on the board. my problem was the holes in the board had gone green and the corrosion had eaten the copper track away in the hole under the vanish in several places . you may have to scratch off the varnish to get a good contact , just use the probe from the multi meter , be careful not to damage the track . when you find the fault just soldier a wire from the power side to the other side
PS i went and purchased the correct wire ,soldier and also a set of drills(get the ones with the plastic knobs) to clean out the green holes from an electronic hobby shop, made it an easy job, cost about $20 all up . happy hunting.

if you had solid tires you would defiantly fix the eas and not go for coils . the ride would be atrocious . fork lifts have an injected sold rubber Tyre if you would like to be the our test dummy, but they still wear out and are outrageously difficult to change 😃
is there a reason why my emoji is not in color and when did we get emojis. i found them when i tried to make a face.
they change colour when you press reply 😉

hi dave thanks for the reply , i will look into the things you mention ,also he replaced the turbo pipe as it was damaged but i will still look into it . he mentioned that their was 3 pumps so i went with it , will clarify when i ask him? yes it dose have the clear fuel line and he did mention that it was something to look at . he has some type of diagnostics and i offered to drive around and look and watch the graphs etc , will report back when i see him again.
thanks.

its a L322 with BMW diesel engine, the vehicle runs ok generally accept it looses power , drops down to around 1000 rpm and then starts to recover . he has replaced the filter under the bonnet and the maf but it still dose it . he thinks it could be one off the 3 pumps that it has (which sounds very possible). its a random thing that happens on occasion but is getting worse . is this a thing that happens to these or is it an unknown issue,
PS i have never owned or worked on diesels so its all foreign to me ,any info would be very appreciated, thanks

ok i had another go today , i replaced the universals in the rear shaft to find out its the front one is making the noise , will do that one another day. i bridged across the plug at the pressure switch and nothing happened so i checked for power no power so its an inside job , also checked for other faults and found one off coarse, O2 sensor rich, pulled the plugs and found a rusty ended lead, not touching the plug and ripped the end off another . also a couple of black plugs i also noticed the water level has gone down (no washed plugs) will keep an eye on that . back to the real issue.
i take it that their is a power issue inside the car , the nano says it has a grant for the AC to kick in so its not being stopped bye a fan or a relay so to speak or is there another reason for it to not work?

its about 15 degrees here at the moment (Tasmania), a nice morning no wind . i don't mind the cold so much, its the wind that goes right through me

the pleats are there to give you surface area in the filter the same as the air filter which is another filter i don't change unless requires changing. the best oil filter system i have seen involved a toilet roll , you just removed the cardboard core and fitted it into the housing and refitted it to the car like a cartridge type filter, it used the single ply harder type toilet paper, GENERALLY easily available at all supermarkets ha ha

i have reset the air gap on the clutch, found the relay cut off pressure switches (behind the front bumper basically )so with the vehicle going there should be power to the switches . if there is power then the switch or switches are faulty, if no power check at hevac end for power.
can you remove switches without releasing the gas ? that's if there is any in there to release that is.
would the power be 12v or other, can i put power to the switch and see if it works or is that a no no.

yes when you do it yourself you can pic and choose but when you are at the mercy of the garage you get what they supply and its always in their favor

Joined: Aug 8, 2019
Posts: 255
Message
Feb 10, 2021, 09:09 AM#16
i did have the system checked a while ago and the man said it had refrigerant in it but their was other problems , air gap was to wide the fan relays etc and left it at that . i now think i have fixed all the other things just the AC to go

Joined: Aug 8, 2019
Posts: 254
Message
Feb 10, 2021, 08:44 AM#14
i replaced my dodgy blower motor yesterday and all is working accept the AC , the clutch is not engaging . i have put power to the clutch and it works just not kicking in .is there a main conspirator for this or is it a case of just keep looking , which relays run the clutch , where dose it get power from and what stops it from working . (97 gems)
PS it has worked before, that's the clutch not the AC , as i have seen the clutch kick in but i don't know if the actual system worked as i thought it was the blower that was stopping the system from working. never really had AC as the rest of the system had its own problems but its all good now just no AC.
nano alarm reads (33) compressor clutch circuit open .(fault type= current)
this is the first time this fault has come up , normally blend motors or fans, but they are all fixed now
where would be a start point for this issue , any ideas , thanks in advance.

the reason they change filters every time you change oil is $$$$ money for nothing. they didn't change filters every oil change years ago because it was not required , today's engines run cleaner than the old ones and its still not required , its like running 5 weight oil in cars ,its a money spinner its dearer than the 10 weight oil and its recommended , read the hand book in the glove box and you will see the recommended oils for use , it will not say use the dearest oil you can find, which is what they want you to use
when i spoke with a filter specialist ,he agreed , then said that a 10 micron filter can have up to 10% above 10 micron as high as 30 micron . every time you change your filter you open up all those holes again allowing the bigger particles to flow again. that's the theory behind filter changes , some filters can be expensive . as for longevity of the engine mine seem to last longer than most but i think that's attitude to the way some people drive.