Morat wrote:

mad-as, sorry mate but you need to educate yourself. Here's a start.
https://www.nationalgeographic.com/environment/article/global-warming-real

so you have a different view Morat that's a good thing because it makes people talk about the real issues . sorry i can't look at the item you posted , i have to register to read it , not interested in the rubbish that comes with that . you didn't say which part you was not happy with did i tell a lie if so point it out so i can fact check it please.
the problem with the environmentalists is you are not allowed to challenge any of it as you will be attacked personally because they don't have the answers to the questions . its all been so over exasperated that the truth is a distant thing . if the environment was in such a delicate state why is Elon Musk firing rockets into space ever other day knowing that he is destroying the ozone layer and not a word from the environmentals
we do have real issues in the world but carbon is not one of them.

stop worrying about the environment, their is no amount of carbon that will hurt you or the trees or the animals , its been at the levels they say are devastating to planet many times before . if the levels get to low the trees will stop growing along with your food , think about that for a second . then ask yourself where all the copper and the lithium is going to come from, there's is not enough in the world to do what they want so its not going to happen . the governments will loose all the revenue from fuels and the car industry itself. the worlds economy has been built on the car industry for the last 70 odd years or more and that is not going to change. there is something like 22000 parts to a petrol car and are made all over the place , electric cars don't have anywhere near that amount of parts so no employment in parts or spares as the consumables are not their
when ever a politician says we will change the rules if that statement is not in their elected period its very unlikely that its going to happen as the next lot will just change the date to suit their agenda , to the next elected period. just like Biden in the US in the next 10 years, he can only hold office for 8 years so its not going to be his problem, seen to be doing something but doing nothing on purpose. thats my 2 cent rant, sick of the lies and bullshit that are being pushing , ask yourself where is the money going and to hoom

yes some of them are pulling good money and they are getting better all the time , the same as the p38 is getting better for the right model but if we have to wait until they are 50 years old we have some time up our sleeves.

ive asked this question in relation to Japanese bikes and the reply is that are just not old enough yet, give them some time and all things will have a value
as on man once said to me when i had a villiers and i went to ... and broke down and this happened and then some think else happened and so on so on , he then said the problem with Jap bikes is they didn't break down so no one has these memories of when this happened and that happened so on. memories to bring you back to reminiscing or wanting one again for nostalgia reasons. people that buy things like old GTs or whatever owned one when they where young or their dad had one.
with the p38 most original owners would already be older than most so when they sold there p38 they most likely dont want another one or go back to another one ,hence the price today . all the better for us but i do believe that in time these vehicles will appreciate and come into they own, you just wait a little while .

if you are going to replace your cam with a hot cam just note that to get the best out of it you may have to do more than you think . i have never personally got any advantage from replacing the cam only, doing one mod when you need to do many . to get real advantage from hot cams you need to mod heads do exhaust ,change the mapping of the ecu etc. in some extremes you are required to replace pistons for the correct compression, the list just goes on and on
its easy to tell you it will be ok as its not their car that will not run properly your ecu is set to run a standard cam and the fuel graph will not suit it. it may change the sound it may even increase power in one area slightly but it will run rough in the critical area of the motor use more fuel and and most likely be noisier in the motor
IMHO you need to do it all or do none off it . no real advantage ,good usable power is not cheap
power is all about getting air in and getting it out there is no point forcing air in that that can not get away!
i

the heat is to loosen the lock tight .thats if its been used (they use heat on outboard motors all the time )it will not do any damage ,your only warming it up not cooking it.

it could be lock tighted in so you will need heat for that , try the other bolts just to see if they move , also try a good smack with a heavy hammer on the head of the bolt , try forwards and reverse with the rattle gun if its possible put some heat on it around the block area even a heat gun might do it just take longer.

i have 3 at the present

100,000 on original discs is nothing , dont toss them thinking their worn out , measure them up if concerned.

because your not home so options are minimal find a screw driver and remove the switch panel and gear lever cover and give it s bit or lube to loosen up the linkages and look for objects that might cause issues . may be useless but might get you home to, 10 minute job but it dose hint that its the xyz switch

this has been done before by someone in NSW , this maybe the same vehicle ?if so it has issues such as if you take off with gusto so to speak it will go into limp mode unless you wait for it to select second gear . also it involves alot of machine work to adapt the motor and transmission to mate up(theres a rightup on RRnet somewhere with pics)
just to note when Martin done his LS swap he quickly found out that the ZF trans was simply not up to the task of handling the LS motor, it exploded, which is why he put the 4l60e trans in it , also the engine mounts need to be rehashed as he basically ripped them from the frame on the rover which explains the cracks in the mounts . while its a good job and looks neat and tidy it dose have some little issues , but it is a prototype so to speak so its a good start .

i had my rear door done after i smashed it , the tint shop used 30% as a match for the other windows . plenty dark enough, if its to dark you will not see out the back window , a real shit to back up in the dark.

Lpgc wrote:

I can see why people would save money fitting a stainless system over a more expensive OEM exhaust, in this case they're saving money.

Remember Janspeed from my boy racer days, didn't know they were still going!

Obviously if you're paying for OEM cats it'll be expensive.

Is there no in-between - A mild steel system that lasts nearly as long as OEM but cheaper than stainless? The last exhaust I bought was for a Grand Voyager, cost me £90. Went for that instead of a stainless system that would have cost many times more.

It occurred to me to bring this subject up here because I'm on another forum where the subject vehicle has a problem with failing front cats (they have 4 cats in total) causing blockages that then see cat material enter the engine wrecking it. Someone bought an expensive stainless system complete with aftermarket front cats but the engine has recently started using loads of oil and the most likely reason for that is failed front cats (which in this case would be the expensive aftermarket stainless cats). My advice would have been keep the original exhaust but decore the front cats.... It would be ironic if the owner spent over the odds for aftermarket front cats and full stainless system to prevent problems if the expensive mods caused the same problems as the original exhaust system can cause while if they'd simply kept the existing exhaust but had cats cut out they wouldn't have had any problems.

how dose the cat damage the engine to make it burn oil, it can only bloke of the exhaust i thought or cause a restriction ?

i fitted a stainless exhaust to my classic in 1993 and its steel their, replaced the clamps and brackets 3 or 4 times , still as good as when it was put on.
it was custom made not off the shelf .

the temps in my area are around -2 or 3 up to 35ish , in other places it varies between -10+ Liawenee (lakes area) i have never been their, to 40dec east coast off the state . even with these temps i dont use anti freeze as it is a once a year event so to speak and you have to be in that spot .if i lived at Liawenee i would use it but i dont . i do go to cold areas but i dont stay over night . my car is usually under cover when not being used and if it was a problem i would just drain it
PS my mechanic teacher retired shortly after a completed my coarse so he was of that age bracket you speak off and it was a comment that just stuck in my head so i mentioned it and now its a little clearer as i have never challenged it
as a comment of how hot you can run something , i once came off the cape beach in my series 2A landy(with Holden motor fitted cast everything the mighty 186 red motor )) in 2nd gear with the wind for 10km 4500rpm temps 117dec boiled at 118, oil pressure disappeared halve way along beach which was a worry but could not stop as it would have bogged down in the soft sand and would have lost it to the sea so nothing to loose really, got to the end turned into the wind and in 20 seconds the temps dropped and the oil pressure came back , drove home no problems and it only had water in the radiator no coolant of any description. that motor was still in it when i sold it 2 years later.

a twenty minute job is only one broken bolt away from becoming a 3 day job:😂

i think i need to explain my comment
back in the eighties when i done my mechanics coarse the teacher stated that if you was going up to the lakes (our cold area in the mountains) that you needed to change your coolant as the anti freeze component of the coolant would have evaporated out over time as its alcohol based .
now i think David hit the nail on the head when he said its a closed system , back in the eighties cars didnt have closed sealed systems like today , they vented into a vented container or just vented to the atmosphere where now they are sealed so no evaporation can happen. while this may have been relevant then its probably not so much today . back in the days of just using water from the tap and the use of coolant started to be used because things were being made from aluminium, water pumps, heads etc and the water just ate out the aluminium parts. its only in extreme cases that you need to use anti freeze anti boil products instead or just an inhibitor (i think some of yous live in these extreme areas)
PS i only use inhibitor and have never had over heating or freezing issues ever, also never had issues with corrosion of any description.
i hope that makes sense of my comment.

just to add to the costs , hybrids will be charged at 2 cents a km.
IMHO i think their is a place for EVs , and that is the city and heavy populated areas . they are not suitable for long hauls or towing period. the hybrids are better but still have their short comings, weight, price, etc. we are a long way from this becoming a real thing unless things change. the materials for there construction is a big issue , copper and lithium are just not available in the quantities required and to have different plugs is just plain dumb
the governments should be pushing that EVs will improve the health of people that live in heavily populated areas to reduce the grey haze that covers cities and drop the ridiculous carbon rubbish as this is just lies and people know it . they dont say anything because they dont want to be attacked by wankers who think the world is going to end

i filled my rover from empty only to find it only took 75L to fill 25Ls as the reserve, the book says 8Ls ? also when i filled it it never read full for the first couple off times always a bar below but it now reads right ?

Gilbertd wrote:

mad-as wrote:

Question , with anti freeze how dose it work when the anti freeze bit evaporates at around 75 dec when thermostats run at 82+ dec . do you have a specific thermostat for colder areas ?

Huh? Neat Ethylene Glycol has a boiling point, the temperature at which it will evaporate, of 197 degrees C, so if mixed 50/50 with water, with a boiling point of 100 degrees C, that means the coolant will have a boiling point of around 149 degrees. But that is at atmospheric pressure and the reason the cooling system is pressurised is to raise the boiling point even further. Hence you can often run at 120 degrees without it boiling over as long as the pressure cap is good and it doesn't spit the coolant out (then you overheat due to a lack of coolant). That's why running on plain water isn't a good idea as, other than it corrodes the engine and clogs the waterways, it has a lower boiling point that an anti-freeze mix.

No idea what the spec of this orange OAT stuff they recommend for the Thor is though.

on the bottle it says anti freeze anti boil , you explained the boil part (that bit we know) but the bit that stops it from freezing is what i was asking , if it boils out at 75 deg and the car runs at 82 deg then its no longer anti freeze , so how dose it do the two jobs when one part is over cooked, so to speak, bye the other part
in other words is it one or the other . i dont live in this type of climate and i dont use it ,i just use inhibitor. so how do you stop it freezing without the plug in heater system i hear of occasionally. so how cool is to cool:😀 the other end of the story.