just to add to the costs , hybrids will be charged at 2 cents a km.
IMHO i think their is a place for EVs , and that is the city and heavy populated areas . they are not suitable for long hauls or towing period. the hybrids are better but still have their short comings, weight, price, etc. we are a long way from this becoming a real thing unless things change. the materials for there construction is a big issue , copper and lithium are just not available in the quantities required and to have different plugs is just plain dumb
the governments should be pushing that EVs will improve the health of people that live in heavily populated areas to reduce the grey haze that covers cities and drop the ridiculous carbon rubbish as this is just lies and people know it . they dont say anything because they dont want to be attacked by wankers who think the world is going to end

i filled my rover from empty only to find it only took 75L to fill 25Ls as the reserve, the book says 8Ls ? also when i filled it it never read full for the first couple off times always a bar below but it now reads right ?

Gilbertd wrote:

mad-as wrote:

Question , with anti freeze how dose it work when the anti freeze bit evaporates at around 75 dec when thermostats run at 82+ dec . do you have a specific thermostat for colder areas ?

Huh? Neat Ethylene Glycol has a boiling point, the temperature at which it will evaporate, of 197 degrees C, so if mixed 50/50 with water, with a boiling point of 100 degrees C, that means the coolant will have a boiling point of around 149 degrees. But that is at atmospheric pressure and the reason the cooling system is pressurised is to raise the boiling point even further. Hence you can often run at 120 degrees without it boiling over as long as the pressure cap is good and it doesn't spit the coolant out (then you overheat due to a lack of coolant). That's why running on plain water isn't a good idea as, other than it corrodes the engine and clogs the waterways, it has a lower boiling point that an anti-freeze mix.

No idea what the spec of this orange OAT stuff they recommend for the Thor is though.

on the bottle it says anti freeze anti boil , you explained the boil part (that bit we know) but the bit that stops it from freezing is what i was asking , if it boils out at 75 deg and the car runs at 82 deg then its no longer anti freeze , so how dose it do the two jobs when one part is over cooked, so to speak, bye the other part
in other words is it one or the other . i dont live in this type of climate and i dont use it ,i just use inhibitor. so how do you stop it freezing without the plug in heater system i hear of occasionally. so how cool is to cool:😀 the other end of the story.

my experience with the cooling system in rovers in general is quite good , the only things that cause temp rises is worn impellers on water pumps blocked rads or the fins have rotted (generally copper core rads). thermostats can be a problem but they generally work or dont work , most thermostats have the temp stamped on them , also dont discard a bad earth to the engine, this can really screw with your temps
Question , with anti freeze how dose it work when the anti freeze bit evaporates at around 75 dec when thermostats run at 82+ dec . do you have a specific thermostat for colder areas ?
PS i dont think i would like running my motor at that lower temp, not very efficient?

Australia will be the first country to charge EVs for road use . and not before time . it will be 2.5 cents per km .Apparently NSW Victoria will introduce the charges for road use and the EV ers are not happy , they are saying it will reduce EV car sales 🤣 . i say about time they started to paying their way , this is around 25% of the costs that the rest of us are picking up for them , its time to pay all of the costs so that the actual cost is real not this artificial concept that persists now . if they want it they need to understand that its not as cheap or reliable as they make out . no more freebies or hand outs , its time to pick up the bill.😂 reality is a bitch and its only the start.
i say its a good thing , whats your opinion ?

if you have separated the slip joint on the prop shaft there should be a punch mark on the actual spline and the inner for you to alien for reassembly
look at the outer ring and the end off the shaft

i think the insurance company will class it as wear and tear and say no , its like saying my paint has faded i want my car resprayed . i will be surprised if they say yes,but no harm in asking thou
PS if the heated wind screen is classed as a safety feature with the vehicle it may have to have a heated screen fitted for it to pass rego or mot or what ever its called. some of the rules are ridiculous now days when it comes to this stuff .

use a piece of wood or soft hammer and gently hit the journal and wiggle it out . it could have silastic holding it

was it your favorite::😊

no sorry not here, classics are not respected here and the ones i have are only parts mostly , he may be able to make one from all 4 . i have a friend with about 10 2 door classics and hasn't sold a part for years but he is still buying them when he finds them. there is a 2 door for sale locally and he can not get $6000 for it and its reasonable condition. i payed $400 dollars for 3 of them, thats the value here. as for the p38s one is parts the other has a over heating problem but is complete so repairable .

i do tend to agree that 22'' rims are ridiculously over the top . definitely a bit of bling. i had to remove them so i could move the rover , just so you know at 10'' wide you can not steer or really move it as it wanted to rip out the inner guards, so if anyone is interested the tires are near new accept they are perished so no good and yes even flat they looked like they had air in them
PS i was thinking i could put two off them on and take a picture and then take them off. i don't think i could get out off the paddock without damaging them. to sum it all up, what a waste off money:":😂
i swapped 2 p38s for the 4 classics that i had so if anyone wants some parts let me know i may have one.

is there a way of testing these amps or do you just fit them and hope for the best . the amp sub woofer cd player(is it all one or is the amp separate? ) in my daily drive has been removed but i have others in the wrecks i have so can they be tested before installing?

Beowulf wrote:

Sorry Gilbert, I saw the broken images too after posting and went back and fixed them. In the meantime I see you also have been by.

Thank you, Mad-as! 20 thousands metric or imperial? Me thinks 20 thousands of an inch would be way too much.

20 thou is 0.5 mm thats 0.25mm from each side . the problem is if they bore at 10thou and it dosent clean up the bore on say no5 cut then they start again and you pay twice because they have done the job twice. you will not be doing this with this motor again so the amount cut out is irrelevant .
oversize pistons generally come in 10 thou 20 thou 40 thou 60 thou oversize. if you just hone out the cylinders it can oversize the bore to much for standard rings ,in other words your motor will be loose and wear out quicker than it should and you could end up with piston slap , this can damage the bore
PS take the stripped down block to your machinist and let him do what he recommends , if he says 10 thou then its 10thou if he can just hone and clean it up then it will be alot cheaper especially if you can reuse your old pistons, don't forget to measure your old pistons as they wear as well and when you put it all together after its been honed the gaps are generally to great
if it was mine it would be a 20 thou cut, no questions . you still have 2 more over sizes to go . at the end of the day its a case of how much you wish to spend .

the crank has to be removed to be measured for size also if the block to be washed it has to be removed . what is the hub aligner , (harmonic balancer)?,just seen pics all sorted now just give the bolts on the crank a hit with a hammer to loossen also ask about replacing the cam bearings when having work done on the block
yes the bolts are AF its an American motor
as for the lip it will be cleaned up when its bored , its not a case of the hone marks are still their its a case of how round your bores are. i recommend 20thou cut to clean up bores , happy honing:😀

these are the triple sport that i just picked up . my daily drive has futura rims

22'' rims anyone interested they have 35 profile tyres not 50 .

i just went and retrieved two p38s one complete the other parts 400km trip one tank of fuel in the evening so lights on . how would that go in electric land ?
i looked at the vehicles that Richard put a link to , all the ones that had towing capacity had fuel pumps so not really electric, but i wonder if their would be access to the fuel pump through the floor?

i have a set of those rims on a wreck i just picked up, also have a set of 22'' yes thats right 22'' on another wreck with 50mm profile tyres , how to waist money. will try to load pics later.

you have to use the original bell housing, and yes it bolts strait on but if you want to use the v8 TC you have to modify the bell housing so you can do up the bolts , this where he got stuck , the bigger TC dosent quite fit and you have to drill a hole in the side to get access to the bolts.
the original gear box ripped up the pump and TC so it destroyed the box, its a common fault .

that;s what he is doing except he got some dodgy advise and got stuck with the bolts on the flex plate , didnt know he had to cut a hole in bell housing to do them up with other things . have directed him to Ashcrofts and i will pay more attention with the job
PS this is an upgrade using the hp22 TC out of the p38 , it also needs to be remapped .