hi David, welcome aboard.
i have small stick on ones that fit the p38 , they stop the noise when the window is just cracked , no thumping in the ears
PS stuck on properly they will not come off , use the prepping fluid .
when i done my dash removal i taped up all the ducting so it wouldn't rattle or leak. don't forget to check the fans while you have access to them, also remove the evap without disconnecting it of cause, if you like and clean behind it , i didnt do this but there can be lots behind it.
yes i have done this and you can soldier onto the window just use a standard soldiering iron
if you are referencing the strip between the two doors you have to use the same stuff they use for wind shields. it's a 3m product in Australia , i think it's called bonding prepping fluid. it comes in a stick like a small pencil with a glass tube inside that you break and wipe the area that you want it to stick to . the same stuff thats used for wrapping cars in that vinyl sheet .
PS make sure its in the right place when you apply the strip as it will not come off once it touches it . there is enough in the tube to do all 4 doors if you wanted to put the little wind Shields on your car. just an FYI
merry Christmas to all , hope you have a good day, from Australia.
just dril a hole in the seal and screw a screw in it and pull it out , may need 2
PS if its not leaking i would just leave it . the only reasons i have seen them leak is the seal has cut the yoke or the bearings have wear in them ?
hi Pierre3 ,just a FYI i spent a week getting around pulling the dash , tried every trick in the book , wasted lots of time dodging it to just pull the dash, and i was done in 2 days. there are several things that i would check before i would do it again
alarms on nano , if you are getting over current readings on the nano that is saying its hard to drive the distribution flaps . as Richard said the motors are toquey but the becm controls the power output not the motor, also i would pull the instrument panel out (RHD) and remove the blend motors and try and turn the flaps on the heater box where the big white wheel is , also remove the wheel and see if that makes a difference to the movement of the flaps as the wheel can also be very tight . i had to take possibly 5mm out of the box to free it up, easy to sand out the areas with a power file or similar. i can now move the flaps in the box with a flick of a finger and i don't hear the motors working any more which would be another little sign that the box has shrunk as they make noise when under load. the hardest part of the dash removal was the strip above the glove box , it would not come off then fell off basically . i used pauls p38 dash removal process , very easy just follow instructions, also i removed one of the stalks from the steering wheel just for more wiggle room .if you need to do it you will wonder why you wasted so much time dodging it
PS you will need 2 people to lift the dash out of the car an to install , be careful as its old and could be i bit brittle so handle the dash with so care. good luck with what ever you end up doing.
just before you replace your blend motors are they actually burnt out or just unable to move because your heater box has shrunk and the little 7.2v motors haven't the guts to move them, if this is the case new motors wont fix it , you will have to modify the heater box and loosen it up by dismantling it and sanding the inside of the box to loosen it up. motors are expensive if you buy new , i just picked up old second hand ones for nothing in case i needed parts to fix . after fixing the heater box i just reused the old ones , all is working fine still .
PS when i removed the screws for the motors i used a small screw driver and just taped the screw to the screw driver, very easy. the flaps in the heater box will move with the flick of a finger when you fix the heater box. my vehicle is a RHD if that makes a difference.
i have noticed that if you change oil brands, motors in general will use oil for one reason or another (usually 1 litre or so) and on the next change stop or reduce the oil loss, strange it is but i dont know why . maybe use an oil additive (lucus oil treatment or similar) and see if that helps , other than that a compression test would be a place to start if you think it's something else
Catapillar ,earth moving machinery company use lanolin grease on the wire looms in their trucks and mining equipment , after 5 years in the mines it's the only part that still works, just an FYI
without it the looms last 12 months, they just dip it in the tin and push together.
how long since it was serviced it could be picking up crap ( clutch plates etc) and getting stuck in the valving , simple to service just get a service kit , basically a pan gasket, filter and oil. if there is anything in the oil or the bottom of the pan you will see it, if it hasn't been done there could be hand fulls of it.
just an FYI for you . i disconnect my TC by lifting one of the wheel sensors, usually the right one as this works with my left handedness, it comes up ABS fault on the dash . it only disables the TC as i often have the ratcheting through the brake peddle, but not all the time. i think it depends on which wheel is locking up at the time . i do a lot of sand work and it would be super convenient if i could just turn it off when needed or separate the ABS from the TC as sometimes you need to separate them. this is done on new vehicles with the sand, mud, hill descent knob or buttons, so very interested in what you are doing as i normally disable and not fix for a month or so and then a week later its disabled again (back to the shack) its a real PITA to be honest . mine is a gems system .
i know you said the level was checked , did you check or him , dont take someones word do it yourself and be shore
PS check level before starting it will be hi , after start it will be correct level, hopefully.
try resetting adaptive values with the nano, if you can with a thor that is .
thats the most interesting thing ive read on air suspension for a while , better than its going down again.
i have had ignition switches stick on and you could not turn off the starter, it was the piece on the end of the ignition barrel, don't know if its the same on p38 tho
a uni will let you down more so than a cv , i would fix the uni?
the first thing to do is to look at the cv boot and see if its split, if so and you want a cheap option, bye a new boot ( some even come with grease) dismantal and wash out the cv, re grease and a new boot . if the boot is split it most likely just have dirt in it