hi Pierre3 ,just a FYI i spent a week getting around pulling the dash , tried every trick in the book , wasted lots of time dodging it to just pull the dash, and i was done in 2 days. there are several things that i would check before i would do it again
alarms on nano , if you are getting over current readings on the nano that is saying its hard to drive the distribution flaps . as Richard said the motors are toquey but the becm controls the power output not the motor, also i would pull the instrument panel out (RHD) and remove the blend motors and try and turn the flaps on the heater box where the big white wheel is , also remove the wheel and see if that makes a difference to the movement of the flaps as the wheel can also be very tight . i had to take possibly 5mm out of the box to free it up, easy to sand out the areas with a power file or similar. i can now move the flaps in the box with a flick of a finger and i don't hear the motors working any more which would be another little sign that the box has shrunk as they make noise when under load. the hardest part of the dash removal was the strip above the glove box , it would not come off then fell off basically . i used pauls p38 dash removal process , very easy just follow instructions, also i removed one of the stalks from the steering wheel just for more wiggle room .if you need to do it you will wonder why you wasted so much time dodging it
PS you will need 2 people to lift the dash out of the car an to install , be careful as its old and could be i bit brittle so handle the dash with so care. good luck with what ever you end up doing.

just before you replace your blend motors are they actually burnt out or just unable to move because your heater box has shrunk and the little 7.2v motors haven't the guts to move them, if this is the case new motors wont fix it , you will have to modify the heater box and loosen it up by dismantling it and sanding the inside of the box to loosen it up. motors are expensive if you buy new , i just picked up old second hand ones for nothing in case i needed parts to fix . after fixing the heater box i just reused the old ones , all is working fine still .
PS when i removed the screws for the motors i used a small screw driver and just taped the screw to the screw driver, very easy. the flaps in the heater box will move with the flick of a finger when you fix the heater box. my vehicle is a RHD if that makes a difference.

i have noticed that if you change oil brands, motors in general will use oil for one reason or another (usually 1 litre or so) and on the next change stop or reduce the oil loss, strange it is but i dont know why . maybe use an oil additive (lucus oil treatment or similar) and see if that helps , other than that a compression test would be a place to start if you think it's something else

Catapillar ,earth moving machinery company use lanolin grease on the wire looms in their trucks and mining equipment , after 5 years in the mines it's the only part that still works, just an FYI
without it the looms last 12 months, they just dip it in the tin and push together.

how long since it was serviced it could be picking up crap ( clutch plates etc) and getting stuck in the valving , simple to service just get a service kit , basically a pan gasket, filter and oil. if there is anything in the oil or the bottom of the pan you will see it, if it hasn't been done there could be hand fulls of it.

just an FYI for you . i disconnect my TC by lifting one of the wheel sensors, usually the right one as this works with my left handedness, it comes up ABS fault on the dash . it only disables the TC as i often have the ratcheting through the brake peddle, but not all the time. i think it depends on which wheel is locking up at the time . i do a lot of sand work and it would be super convenient if i could just turn it off when needed or separate the ABS from the TC as sometimes you need to separate them. this is done on new vehicles with the sand, mud, hill descent knob or buttons, so very interested in what you are doing as i normally disable and not fix for a month or so and then a week later its disabled again (back to the shack) its a real PITA to be honest . mine is a gems system .

i know you said the level was checked , did you check or him , dont take someones word do it yourself and be shore
PS check level before starting it will be hi , after start it will be correct level, hopefully.

try resetting adaptive values with the nano, if you can with a thor that is .

thats the most interesting thing ive read on air suspension for a while , better than its going down again.

i have had ignition switches stick on and you could not turn off the starter, it was the piece on the end of the ignition barrel, don't know if its the same on p38 tho

a uni will let you down more so than a cv , i would fix the uni?

the first thing to do is to look at the cv boot and see if its split, if so and you want a cheap option, bye a new boot ( some even come with grease) dismantal and wash out the cv, re grease and a new boot . if the boot is split it most likely just have dirt in it

if your looking for a pump for parts washing, the pump in my parts washer is identical to a submersible pond pump with a filter gause over the inlet, in the event the pump stops i will be purchasing another pond pump (the same as used for water features and gold fish)
PS to run a sand blaster even a small one you need 20cfm air compressor or you will be struggling to use it . i have noticed that their is a blaster that goes on the end of a hi pressure water blaster . i think its called a wet blaster, only seen them on the computer some where.

i use turps or white spirit for parts and metho for brake parts, sometimes i use the spay on degreaser to, and for heavy covered areas use a wire brush first then degrease.
yes i have a cheap parts washer as well

a per mile road tax is how you tax an EV, i would say thats the big push behind it . same as here

if your referencing a noise in the radio like the noise you got from an old car it could be the alternator starting to fail ?

yes they can be intermittent at the start but become more prominent with time... if the cat is damaged it can pressurize and blow the gasket out and cause running issues. check around all the manifolds and joint areas with a piece off flexy hose up to your ear and listen for a fluffing sound.

sounds like manifold gasket or something similar if its cutting out continually it could be cracked catalist.

the first time i heard it it sounded like lifter rattle, you call them followers, without cam wear but the second time i listened it had a ring, rattle sound to it and now not so shore .
PS had another listen still think its lifters , if it sounds like a diesel idling (sort off that is) then the holes the lifters sit in might be slightly worn causing a slight leak down , just enough to cause a noise. is it their when you do an oil change have you tried a different oil ?

might be best to send off the new purchased one and get it coded for your car as well as get the chip fitted , then you have a spare just in case. then it plug and play out of the box so to speak