try tapeing up the maff on both sides just to eliminate an air leak
thursdays not wednesday, but i was thinking is your wednesday my wednesday but as you can see i didn't put much thought into it. i will look for the camera and i may see you all thursday :) ha ha
just had a quick read though again as i thought that when you done the cam, there is no squeak there , have done lots of cam lifter replacements and never heard one squeak , have seen cams with no lobes on them and they do not squeak . your cam lifters where about average for a cam job (what you would expect, IMHO.)
have you inspected the flex plate as this could squeak under load, i have also heard worn PCV valves squeak (the valve that come out of the tappet cover) it's a one way valve that wears and rattles, eg squeak, don't give up nearly there, bit like my coil issue well it might be the coil and then again it might not be. find out next week when it arrives . hang in their .
are you saying the same squeek is still their
hi to all, how did it go, sorry i could not find the camera, it's still in the packet it came in 10 years ago, have never used it . even the wife didnt know where it is . il find it and be ready for the next time , that's if their is going to be a next time, hope so .
thats good ,all the other things are easily fixed, having working fobs is posiblly the most important thing with these vehicles, for lots off reasons
il try and find a camera
Hi Justus welcome to the pub ,one thing you didn't mention was do you have a working fob and good door locks?
hi Alan thats an amount ,who does the polishing and dusting . are they for show or just a private collection. i have owned alot of motocross and enduro bikes from the late 70s 80s , mostly jap stuff had most off the colors , prefered the red ones. dropped in to the Nabiac bike museum a couple of years ago, they have one or two... thousand, brought some old memories back, definitely worth a look if you are in the area.
PS there is lots of cheap aluminium rads on gum tree and ebay , i will try and find out if they are made here ?
if i remember correctly there was a thread on the other side on how to make an aluminium radiator and what to use all you needed was the welder and the ability to do it off cause. all the parts are readily available . it also stated that aluminium radiators hold the heat longer, i think that's because the materials used are thicker than the standard rads. someone said they are available in Aus, how much do they cost ???
PS my advice on ALL chinese products buy two so that when you send the other one back on warranty you have a spare to use
olddirtbikes , do you have some old bikes or is it just a name?
i personally avoid chinese products like the pla sorry coronavirus. :) avoid all things in white boxes when possible.
have checked the fuel pressure it is 37psi at idle and 38psi at run . the vehicle hasn't been started for days and still has pressure at the rail
the video was taken from a cold start as it seems to run for a longer period before stalling and then starts and stops as per the video . no throttle just start run stall. i have checked all things that i can check and the only thing that i have found faulty is the coil pack
PS i have put the video up because all the good helpful info has been deleted and we need to develop our own library of info again.
engine stalling 4.0L gems watch video.
i have removed the coil pack so at present unable to try and start wit maff disconnected
i have visually inspected and cleaned the maff . can it be tested with a multimeter ?have ordered the coil pack as my testing says it's stuffed , will take some time to arrive so i might tackle some of the other small issues , blower motors.
it's a strange one at idle they all appeared to be working, it would idle fine , as soon as you touched the throttle it would just rev brake down and stop and restart fine again and sit their idling and then it would start and then stall in seconds. this made it hard to diagnose faults. the nano showed nothing only a bad o2 sensor , no misfires, nothing. i have checked everything i can with the multi meter, eg maff, stepper motor, tps, plugs even air leaks this is the only thing that shows a fault, it's just that all coils are faulty?
have found a coil pack (lucas brand ) for around $130Au delivered . are they any good . also need leads , have a set off NGK leads on now, they would slip over the plug very easy would be loose when fitted but would not come off even with multi grips on them , they have a small hi tensile ring holding them from spreading. i do not recommend these leads for any application ripped two ends off removing them , literally tore the metal ends apart, was expecting the plugs to brake, that's just ridiculous .
PS do i need to seperate the coils to test them ?
so to test the coil you put the positive on the positive terminal and the negative in the coil output and you should get a reading around 13 k ohm, it shows nothing on the meter on any coil ,meter on 20k ohm positive to negative terminals results 1.0 1.2 on 200 ohms setting on meter
coil prices in aust are $112 from repco per coil , another 4x4 shop has them for $55 per coil. this is how ridiculous our prices are over here , you can't even buy the item as a piece, well i haven't found one yet but this the australian way, every item is a seperate item.
have removed the coils either i am testing it wrong or all the coils are stuffed, is that a thing with these coils ,is their any difference between the cheap and expensive ones. any recommendations on types or brands
i dragged a 10 yarder truck out of the paddock up the drive way, the driver was not impressed about my driveway , its a little narrow a little sloppy a little muddy a little bit of wee and that was on entry. he dropped his load of logs off and on leaving got stuck on the rise out of the paddock so out with the rover and dragged it up the drive much to his surprise .i said to him that they are supposed to have a good traction control system to which his reply was you could see something working
PS my neighbor has ordered wood from the same person and he has not delivered , i think he thinks it's me.
at 5am i will be putting down my whiskey glass if its a sunday morning or my corn flakes any other day . with 9 hours difference an afternoon BBQ might be good for you .did you work out a day
hi all just a note on how its going , have removed all from the inlet side and resealed, as stated didn't find anything obvious . managed to get it started and reving about 2 3 grand and found the entire left bank dead ,no spark . replaced spark plugs on left side no change so its possibly leads but most likely coils, will have another go today .
having another go at the rover today , having convinced myself its an air leak in the system (it starts and stops exactly like the supercharger problem on the other side , it has a video for those that are interested ) i removed the plenum box to clean and reseal. this has been done before.
my question is how important is the water heater on the inlet manifold mine was clogged with some crap, most likely radiator clog your system up in a bottle , can i just do away with the heater.
i have not found anything that was obvious as a leak but i will put it back together with a little more care than previous repairers.