my experience with bearings in these cars are the sooner you replace them the easier it is to do, if left to fail completely it will require a good size press to remove if you do it now so to speak you could do it with a small press ( i done mine with a 6 ton press)
no you can not re grease them, as they are sealed and the seals are basically destroyed when removed
as the ad says "just do it"

just a little FYI for those thinking that a race cam or some other cam will be better than than one you have as standard, just remember that the ecu is not tuned to run a different cam and mapping is done with the replacement off the chips in these not a laptop (gems not sure about the bosch) . also that your heads may need some work to make the benefits of the cam work properly , then it's the exhaust and manifolds that may require replacing as well , there isn't much point putting in more fuel and air if you can't get it out .
when building a race motor it starts with the crank grinding , different surfaces for different purposes. just that in itself should say something, you can't just replace parts and expect them to work properly if you don't do the other bits to go with it . in most cases when people replace their cam only, do not admit that its not running right , it has a dead spot or it runs rough in a certain area of the rev range or uses more fuel for no real gain.
do your homework before going down that rabbit hole, think conservative .

i done my head lining a while ago , i pushed pins in the saggy spots just to stop the foam from getting everywhere and rubbed the soft foam of with a pot scrubbing brush .
when glueing the fabric on the apolstorer (family relative) stated that they use water based glues now as the solvent base glues attack the foam and they sag after a while? , will let you know if it's any different in about ten years or so, all good so far.

it depends on how far you want to go , cam, lifters or tappets as some may say ? timing chain and sprocket , maybe the oil pump, its there , also check the top end rocker gear for wear usually the under sides of the shafts wears. check the cam bearings but doubt if they will need replacing
PS i thought they were just a press fit babbitt bearing not line bored, who would have guessed.

ok time for an update , coils arrived , fitted and guess what its not the coils (testing them wrong) . cracked it and walked away in disgust even though i know it wasn't the coils . went back later in the day started up and sounded different , would rev with slight miss managed to move the metal island out of the driveway and under cover .
have now made a loom up so i can pin test the maf without damaging the wires or the plugs. hopefully this will happen today when i have an assistant to assist
PS how to test a TWIN output coil,
primary coil is tested by probing the inputs , negative on negative ,positive on positive multimeter on 200 ohms should read around .5 to 1.4 or their abouts , mine read around 1.1
secondary coil test is done bye probing BOTH the hi outs (where the leads come out of the coil) mutti meter on 20k ohms place the positive and negative on the two outputs , reading should be around 8k to 15k ohms or thereabouts, old coil read 11.3k ohms , new coil reads 13.8k ohms. not shore if that makes it stronger or weaker with the old coil reading lower
now have to check out the maf , will report back later.

don't go throwing your discs away just yet, measure them first . if they are in size just put more pads on them they will wear in and clean up the disc faster than you think. the thickness has nothing to do with the braking power as long as they are the right thickness is the important thing, if they are to small your pads will come out the front of the caliper of the disc when they wear down ,if you want it to stop better buy better quality pads
PS don't buy cheap chineses discs you will end up replacing them with the next set of pads you do
PSS they don't have to be shiny and smooth they are quite rough when they are machined, just like having the plate rub up against them?
new original discs would be quite expensive i would guess

don't forget the hand brake housing when having a look under their , one of the pads may have come off the brake shoes?

Hi symes, welcome ,sore your resignation from the other side :)

just find an 1/8 " piece of plate and cut a recess in it to suit, (that's what you do without a machine shop) when finished just throw it in the SST box with the other SST tools that you have made (special service tools)
PS most old car manuals have pics of the SST in them, good for reference on what they look like

sorry i couldn't make it and i need a new camera and because everyone is working from home the stores are only keeping the expensive ones and they don't even have any of those
will definitely do it again, hopefully

the first tyre is an under inflated issue, the second is a toe out issue, if it was worn in the middle it would be an over inflated issue.
PS neither of those tyres would pass here , and the fine here is per tyre, generally the fine is more than the replacement of the tyre?

ive only got a windows 7 and it all worked on the screen except my camera , but i think its the camera. will look for another one and you will see me at the next one .

try tapeing up the maff on both sides just to eliminate an air leak

thursdays not wednesday, but i was thinking is your wednesday my wednesday but as you can see i didn't put much thought into it. i will look for the camera and i may see you all thursday :) ha ha

just had a quick read though again as i thought that when you done the cam, there is no squeak there , have done lots of cam lifter replacements and never heard one squeak , have seen cams with no lobes on them and they do not squeak . your cam lifters where about average for a cam job (what you would expect, IMHO.)
have you inspected the flex plate as this could squeak under load, i have also heard worn PCV valves squeak (the valve that come out of the tappet cover) it's a one way valve that wears and rattles, eg squeak, don't give up nearly there, bit like my coil issue well it might be the coil and then again it might not be. find out next week when it arrives . hang in their .

are you saying the same squeek is still their

hi to all, how did it go, sorry i could not find the camera, it's still in the packet it came in 10 years ago, have never used it . even the wife didnt know where it is . il find it and be ready for the next time , that's if their is going to be a next time, hope so .

thats good ,all the other things are easily fixed, having working fobs is posiblly the most important thing with these vehicles, for lots off reasons

il try and find a camera

Hi Justus welcome to the pub ,one thing you didn't mention was do you have a working fob and good door locks?