i used a small screw driver , the screws are reasonably loose, to put them back i taped them to the screw driver.

is that you fitting the grill???

i think i have fixed the camera , apparently you have to initiate the software for it to work , it's not plug and play . i did try and find the software but i didnt know what it was under or what it was called but i did find it and i think it now works
so if anyone is interested in another face chat in the future , fingers crossed .

congrats
i also have older children but when we did have kids we had a classic rover and the problem with car seats is the shape of the back seat , you will have to go and try all the seats and see which one fits best against the rear seat and the belts ( il have a bet that it's the dearest one?) the rear mount for the seat is on the roof
PS after they grew out off the captual we could not find a suitable seat so we had to use a foam booster seat ,(illegal now) with a strap that moulded the seat belt so it didn't cut into their little necks . that my 2 cents worth.

have borrowed a maf from a friend , all is working ok now so it is definitely the maf .

remove the instrument panel and remove the blend motors, top one is the distribution motor , operates 3 flaps inside the box , the other operate the air temp, one flap. try and move the big white wheel , it should move freely if it doesn't it's a dash out IMHO. go straight to the real issue, it takes about 30 minutes or so, the little 7.2v motors will struggle to move if the flaps in the box are tight. it's a plastic box that shrinks over time and the flaps go tight , it's a shame only the air box dose that???
don't bother with all the silly tricks they are only temporary and a waste of time
PS if you need to remove the dash don't forget the fans.

ok now it's later , time to report . have tested the maf several times and have different readings . first readings were very erratic jumping from 1.5v to around 3 to 4v just idling , smocked me out of the carport in 20 seconds , end of that test . tried again to day and the reading was a lot more stable siting around 1.5 v to 1.65v but would not alter , other than the slight fluctuation it would not move ,. didn't smoke me out this time so i was able to be more pacific with the readings, so i am looking for a new MAF . have looked on line and the price varies from $120 to $300 but they look the same brand just a different supplier , is there any recommendations when purchasing a new MAF or are they all the same anyway.
yes it's a gems

could be lots of things but i doubt it's the radius arms , when the bushing goes soft they are generally steering issues , the feeling of drifting around corners having to correct steering in corners . is detectable by simply kicking the front wheels from back to front or front to back , they will move more than they should . having said that that doesn't mean its not them as they may be worn beyond the soft rubber stage, most likely a worn ball joint

my experience with bearings in these cars are the sooner you replace them the easier it is to do, if left to fail completely it will require a good size press to remove if you do it now so to speak you could do it with a small press ( i done mine with a 6 ton press)
no you can not re grease them, as they are sealed and the seals are basically destroyed when removed
as the ad says "just do it"

just a little FYI for those thinking that a race cam or some other cam will be better than than one you have as standard, just remember that the ecu is not tuned to run a different cam and mapping is done with the replacement off the chips in these not a laptop (gems not sure about the bosch) . also that your heads may need some work to make the benefits of the cam work properly , then it's the exhaust and manifolds that may require replacing as well , there isn't much point putting in more fuel and air if you can't get it out .
when building a race motor it starts with the crank grinding , different surfaces for different purposes. just that in itself should say something, you can't just replace parts and expect them to work properly if you don't do the other bits to go with it . in most cases when people replace their cam only, do not admit that its not running right , it has a dead spot or it runs rough in a certain area of the rev range or uses more fuel for no real gain.
do your homework before going down that rabbit hole, think conservative .

i done my head lining a while ago , i pushed pins in the saggy spots just to stop the foam from getting everywhere and rubbed the soft foam of with a pot scrubbing brush .
when glueing the fabric on the apolstorer (family relative) stated that they use water based glues now as the solvent base glues attack the foam and they sag after a while? , will let you know if it's any different in about ten years or so, all good so far.

it depends on how far you want to go , cam, lifters or tappets as some may say ? timing chain and sprocket , maybe the oil pump, its there , also check the top end rocker gear for wear usually the under sides of the shafts wears. check the cam bearings but doubt if they will need replacing
PS i thought they were just a press fit babbitt bearing not line bored, who would have guessed.

ok time for an update , coils arrived , fitted and guess what its not the coils (testing them wrong) . cracked it and walked away in disgust even though i know it wasn't the coils . went back later in the day started up and sounded different , would rev with slight miss managed to move the metal island out of the driveway and under cover .
have now made a loom up so i can pin test the maf without damaging the wires or the plugs. hopefully this will happen today when i have an assistant to assist
PS how to test a TWIN output coil,
primary coil is tested by probing the inputs , negative on negative ,positive on positive multimeter on 200 ohms should read around .5 to 1.4 or their abouts , mine read around 1.1
secondary coil test is done bye probing BOTH the hi outs (where the leads come out of the coil) mutti meter on 20k ohms place the positive and negative on the two outputs , reading should be around 8k to 15k ohms or thereabouts, old coil read 11.3k ohms , new coil reads 13.8k ohms. not shore if that makes it stronger or weaker with the old coil reading lower
now have to check out the maf , will report back later.

don't go throwing your discs away just yet, measure them first . if they are in size just put more pads on them they will wear in and clean up the disc faster than you think. the thickness has nothing to do with the braking power as long as they are the right thickness is the important thing, if they are to small your pads will come out the front of the caliper of the disc when they wear down ,if you want it to stop better buy better quality pads
PS don't buy cheap chineses discs you will end up replacing them with the next set of pads you do
PSS they don't have to be shiny and smooth they are quite rough when they are machined, just like having the plate rub up against them?
new original discs would be quite expensive i would guess

don't forget the hand brake housing when having a look under their , one of the pads may have come off the brake shoes?

Hi symes, welcome ,sore your resignation from the other side :)

just find an 1/8 " piece of plate and cut a recess in it to suit, (that's what you do without a machine shop) when finished just throw it in the SST box with the other SST tools that you have made (special service tools)
PS most old car manuals have pics of the SST in them, good for reference on what they look like

sorry i couldn't make it and i need a new camera and because everyone is working from home the stores are only keeping the expensive ones and they don't even have any of those
will definitely do it again, hopefully

the first tyre is an under inflated issue, the second is a toe out issue, if it was worn in the middle it would be an over inflated issue.
PS neither of those tyres would pass here , and the fine here is per tyre, generally the fine is more than the replacement of the tyre?

ive only got a windows 7 and it all worked on the screen except my camera , but i think its the camera. will look for another one and you will see me at the next one .