i have visually inspected and cleaned the maff . can it be tested with a multimeter ?have ordered the coil pack as my testing says it's stuffed , will take some time to arrive so i might tackle some of the other small issues , blower motors.

it's a strange one at idle they all appeared to be working, it would idle fine , as soon as you touched the throttle it would just rev brake down and stop and restart fine again and sit their idling and then it would start and then stall in seconds. this made it hard to diagnose faults. the nano showed nothing only a bad o2 sensor , no misfires, nothing. i have checked everything i can with the multi meter, eg maff, stepper motor, tps, plugs even air leaks this is the only thing that shows a fault, it's just that all coils are faulty?
have found a coil pack (lucas brand ) for around $130Au delivered . are they any good . also need leads , have a set off NGK leads on now, they would slip over the plug very easy would be loose when fitted but would not come off even with multi grips on them , they have a small hi tensile ring holding them from spreading. i do not recommend these leads for any application ripped two ends off removing them , literally tore the metal ends apart, was expecting the plugs to brake, that's just ridiculous .
PS do i need to seperate the coils to test them ?

so to test the coil you put the positive on the positive terminal and the negative in the coil output and you should get a reading around 13 k ohm, it shows nothing on the meter on any coil ,meter on 20k ohm positive to negative terminals results 1.0 1.2 on 200 ohms setting on meter
coil prices in aust are $112 from repco per coil , another 4x4 shop has them for $55 per coil. this is how ridiculous our prices are over here , you can't even buy the item as a piece, well i haven't found one yet but this the australian way, every item is a seperate item.

have removed the coils either i am testing it wrong or all the coils are stuffed, is that a thing with these coils ,is their any difference between the cheap and expensive ones. any recommendations on types or brands

i dragged a 10 yarder truck out of the paddock up the drive way, the driver was not impressed about my driveway , its a little narrow a little sloppy a little muddy a little bit of wee and that was on entry. he dropped his load of logs off and on leaving got stuck on the rise out of the paddock so out with the rover and dragged it up the drive much to his surprise .i said to him that they are supposed to have a good traction control system to which his reply was you could see something working
PS my neighbor has ordered wood from the same person and he has not delivered , i think he thinks it's me.

at 5am i will be putting down my whiskey glass if its a sunday morning or my corn flakes any other day . with 9 hours difference an afternoon BBQ might be good for you .did you work out a day

hi all just a note on how its going , have removed all from the inlet side and resealed, as stated didn't find anything obvious . managed to get it started and reving about 2 3 grand and found the entire left bank dead ,no spark . replaced spark plugs on left side no change so its possibly leads but most likely coils, will have another go today .

having another go at the rover today , having convinced myself its an air leak in the system (it starts and stops exactly like the supercharger problem on the other side , it has a video for those that are interested ) i removed the plenum box to clean and reseal. this has been done before.
my question is how important is the water heater on the inlet manifold mine was clogged with some crap, most likely radiator clog your system up in a bottle , can i just do away with the heater.
i have not found anything that was obvious as a leak but i will put it back together with a little more care than previous repairers.

so what time is that here in australia

as stated it starts and then promptly stalls. so far i have removed and tested the TPS all good , removed maf cleaned and inspected removed idle bypass valve cleaned, appears to be working maybe ? also have good fuel pressure at all times. can you test idle bypass and maf with a multi meter if so how ?
this problem started as it would idle but not run , would brake down as you tried to rev the motor and then would go back to idle, now it will just starts and then stalls out and will restart and stall out again. i have used timing light to check that the spark is their all the time , sparks to the last turn so that indicates that it is most likely turning off the injectors . no alarms on the nano other than o2 sensor (yes it is a bit fumey) but was not a problem until now? dose the CPS turn off injection when faulty also can this be tested with multi meter. no alarms on dash or check engine light . it appears that my problem may be associated to something that turns off the fuel system. any help appreciated.
1998 4.0L GEMS

so i have checked the TPS all is good so reset adaptive values and tried to start now it will start and run 3 4 seconds and stall out no throttle response when i checked yesterday the nano showed that an o2 sensor wasn't working now it wont run so i have no readings

have little issue vehicle will start but not run as soon as you touch the throttle it tries to rev and then dies . i will be looking at the throttle positioner to start with , dose anyone else have ideas on this

had troubles getting on to the site yesterday my virus software would not load up it stated that the site was under attack from something and when i turned the computer on this morning my virus software is doing it's thing on my computer this time . all clean now, did this happen to others or just isolated to me

the mystery piece is fishing rod holder

cruse the arthur beach ](https://youtu.be/wSeQNqwrIoo)
it works hope you enjoy
thanks for advise richard. not good with computors

sorry its not working yet

hope you enjoy this one

what is the best way to share a small video from my collection
eg (go pro video)

between the steering wheel and the steering box is a universal type joint , this is most likely your problem . get the wife to move the steering wheel and note the movement , it needs to be minimal, like millimeters . generally not serviceable just replaceable

have done a couple of earlier ones , generally they leak because the bushing has worn on the bottom of the shaft or the shaft itself has worn
PS their was two seals available for them standard and a better one.