Anyone know the size of the injector o rings, it's a 97 gems, black injectors, thanks

I recognise this, this is a rangie I did the heads on, redid them as it was slightly pressurising.
This time I went old school way, used wellseal on all gaskets, torqued head down rather than 20nwt, 90/90. I torqued 50-60-70-80, a little more than usual, but mines done the same with no problem.
OB, it's running a multi point system, but you saying about vaporiser is an interesting point..
Steve have you run it down the motorway yet to get exhaust nice and hot ? It certainly died down when I left it running for 40 minutes.
I smelt the exhaust when running with no obvious carbon smells, or oil burning smell.
Are you losing any water ?
If you can, have a look at the vaporiser and get the make, so I can get a diagram to see what gaskets are needed to rule that out..

Always worth putting into stock, I've got a spare, heavy buggers aren't they,,

Give the guy at landyair a call, he will tell you if it's valve block or driver pack, the guy is well up on EAS, knows everything about it..can't think of his name and my phones in being repaired ☹️️

10 minutes isn't unheard of, especially if the tank is empty.
Get the soapy water out and find the leak, I always replace the o rings, diaphragm
and piston and liner on every car I buy, just as precaution.
Sounds like quite a major leak, by the sounds of it you may be able to hear it.

I've always used landyair on eBay, all he does is EAS, helpful on the phone if you get stuck, eBay number 271823378046

Wow, I've never seen one that colour. Maybe it's something that would grow on me, but don't count on it, lol
Apart from the colour looks quite clean !

Heat wise , I've never had a one off setting, 180 and above, of course you could put pedestal in a clamp and warm with a blow torch, then you've got something to push against, but obviously this is more time consuming as 1 at a time

Nice pics by the way

Ferryman wrote:

Can't you lift a sillbutton from the inside of a superlocked car? That means that you can lock in people and no way to get out? I don't believe that.

A scary thought for sure, I've often thought about using it as a restraint for the kids, but swmbo won't let me ☹️️

That's a pain that the rocker shafts are different, I'm thinking if you put them ( the pedestals ) in the oven then installed,would they be ok, I've had similar before,the ends of shafts tight, but once on were ok

I've got access. Removed a rear quarter light glass, but the front doors are superlocked, buttons won't lift. the seat won't move as part of the hash up of this car, wires everywhere. so gonna have fun getting any access to the door panel.

Can't get to side of door as superlocked !

No worries, I'm there tomorrow so it could be with you Tuesday if needed, thanks

Ferryman wrote:

How about the little rod connecting the barrel with the lock? It's only a tiny little spring that holds it in place and might fall off. Then you can turn the key whatever you want but nothing happens.

Problem I have is cars up against a fence, and can't open the doors, might investigate getting the door panel off, fingers crossed

Cheers marty, it refuses to unlock with the key which is what I thought was strange. Will see if my stepfathers diagnostic will allow me to enter the eka, will check the sticker when I'm there, if not is it becm to you ?

I don't have a nanocom, will see if my stepfather diagnostics allows that, at 3k I would hope it does

Apparently he was told it's a new lock ( I don't think so) eka he got from dealers, but I'm not getting anything from indicators or dash, as I said, this car has been serverly hacked about ☹️️

I'm doing the heads on a totally butchered p38 1997 4.6. The battery went flat on the guy, since then front doors are superlocked, managed to get rear quarter out and gain access. It's not taking eka code from the door, in fact doesn't seem to be doing much, I've got engine disabled up on the dash, does this sound like a resync or is nanocom or faultmate needed, I've not had to deal with locks much so not that up on them, it's a pain as it's in Sussex so don't wanna get the engine right but can't start the bloody thing ( when I say it's butchered, l322 conversion, coils, air con pipes cut, heat shields missing, silicon everywhere, inner arches butchered. Mixture of different bolts of varying sizes, It goes on and on,,)

(This should only take a few weeks dear.")

I remember saying something similar the first time I did a set of heads,( on a p38 ) took me 3 days to get the heat shields off.
Doesn't matter how long it takes, that feeling of you've done it, and saved a grand makes it worth it

Yes, I did mean the cam, once started you need to run at around 1500-2000 for 20 mins to bed it in and harden the journals.
Did you get new pistons or use existing?