Well nothing happening today.
Bleeding weather.
Cheers Dave,
Found a video on YouTube removing it with only mounting bolts and wires disconnected. So plenty space with manifold off.
Hi guys,
Just been reading rave regarding removing the starter on the BMW diesel lump.
Does anyone know if it can be removed without removing the the dipstick tube?
I'm planning on being in there on saturday to change a couple of coolant hoses as they have gone soft. It involves removing the manifold so plenty of space.
Cheers guys
Yep, and they cover p38 now wahay
How about this
Gilbertd wrote:
If you've unscrewed the blend motor and checked the movement on the actual flaps and it appears that they are moving over the full range, it could be the feedback pot in the blend motor has a dead spot at one end. If you use your (un-named) diagnostic to look at the signal being returned from the motor while causing it to move from one end of the travel to the other, you may well find that is moves smoothly up to a point then stops. You may be able to sort it by pulling the blend motor apart and filling the pot with switch cleaner.
Need to remove the rear vent pipe first. As I don't fancy breaking anything again :(
Will probably strip again next weekend and watch what's happening etc.
Thanks gentleman
j_rov wrote:
tanis8472 wrote:
Well that was a crap day.
No power at the obd port so had fun trying to trace the problem. There's no power between the engine bay fuse box and connector in the right hand footwell. Bollocks:(Done a modification that draws permanent live from the radio constant live and Fed that to the DLC.
All working now and got a forced calibration initiated.
Didn't help. The blend flap is sticking by the looks of it and logging errors in the ecu. Bugger.
I think k I need to delve in there again. Boohoo:(
I had same problem, it was a broken wire in driver's kick panel multi plug (brown IIRC). Previous owner had done same as you, drawing a live off radio. but they'd just twisted a wire on and not even taped it up!!!
Yes, it is the brown wire, although mine is before the connector.
Mine is soldered and heat shrink fitted. Proper job.
Gilbertd wrote:
That'll make it easier to plug into, no grovelling in the passenger footwell.
Indeed and can be left in panel when not in use.
How do you get discount?
Well that was a crap day.
No power at the obd port so had fun trying to trace the problem. There's no power between the engine bay fuse box and connector in the right hand footwell. Bollocks:(
Done a modification that draws permanent live from the radio constant live and Fed that to the DLC.
All working now and got a forced calibration initiated.
Didn't help. The blend flap is sticking by the looks of it and logging errors in the ecu. Bugger.
I think k I need to delve in there again. Boohoo:(
Very kind of you all. Thank you
Well no power at the socket as its corroded in the obd socket.
Got a new socket arriving friday so i guees i know what im doing saturday :(
I've ordered a (cough cough) diagnostic yesterday. Should be here wednesday. I'll see how that goes first.
Thank you gentlemen :)
Yikes, that's about 8 months using it twice a day.
Heading to Weston Supermare on saturday 10th October
Right, I revisited this today and had a closer look at whats happening.
It looks like the motor is stopping about in the correct places according to a video i found. It moves smoothly.
I'm gussing that the motor was replaced "recently" as the screws holding the top one in are different and it looks fairly new.
Probably not been calibrated though.
I dont have a nanocom to check though :(
Welcome.
Nice to see another doozle owner :)
Used to cycle 60 odd miles a week minimum. Can't anymore due to foot problems caused by shitty safety boots supplied by work.
Still got a Kawasaki zzr600 sitting in the shed which has done about 200 miles in last 5 years. Don't have time or energy at the moment :(
It does after you click on the list it brings up. Not much use when what I want I don't know the name of. Lol.