I'm with Sloth on this. Autobiography models generally seem to have been "created" by people with more money than taste. If there was an "immortal headgasket" or "Top hat liner" option back in 2001, that would be a different matter :)
A 30th Edition or a Holland and Holland on the other hand... I could get quite silly about one of those. If I had the cash :)
FWIW. mine is plumbed in parallel with the Heater core - tee'd into pipes 21 and 22*. It changes over to LPG very quickly. In fact I'd ideally like it to wait a bit longer as it switches over before the ECU has switched out of cold idle and it goes a bit rough at idle until the temp comes up a bit more but that's just a software tweak. When the coolant is up to temp the heater is nice and warm. It does take a little while to produce heat but I've no reference with an unconverted P38 and with working heated seats (thanks again, Marty) and the electric screen - who cares?
*from memory, I'm 90% sure. Can check if you like
You're not going to get accurate fuelling with a vac leak, even if everything else is perfect. I'd try and fix that first and revisit the MAF if necessary.
You're really really sure there aren't any vacuum leaks anywhere?
y'know.. I was just wondering how to tie it in... Dijon not being far from my folks...
(not that I'm any earthly use at rebuilding engines but I'm sure I could polish things)
pending the thread split...
I have Green Flag for £35 through Direct Line. It's not as comprehensive as AA relay, but it has saved me in the past (Headgasket on the Jeep) when luckily I was within range of my preferred specialist.
I think I'll investigate Relay for my wife because she's with another insurance company and it doesn't include breakdown.
I've heard good reports of ADAC in the past from people who do 'ring trips.
Better the devil you know... although I fully understand that a potential top hat job is a real kick in the nuts :(
Maybe a realistic estimate to have all the work done would be helpful here?
I still live in fear of something horrific stopping me (and more importantly my family) miles from home, but as I get more used to the foibles I'm gaining in confidence. Let's face it, if the worst comes to the worst, parts are cheap and plentiful here. I don't fancy ripping the dash out on my own, but it seems that every vehicle I've owned has wanted a heater core at some point. The only serious design flaw seems to be the cylinder liners but there's a whole industry to support that problem, even if the solution is expensive.
How many miles would you expect out of a "top hatted" engine, assuming regular oil changes?
When are you thinking of getting started? If you like, we could schedule the dash-out work on mine for a Saturday and I could give you a hand lugging stuff around on the Sunday morning before heading home? Two boots would be better than one....
I once drove home from Glasgow with a BMW straight six in the back of a mk4 Golf. It coped really well but the nasty crumpling metal noise which came from the boot floor as the engine went in would make me think twice about doing it again!
Having seen both areas I'd say build at home with an engine stand. Of course, you'll need to do a little erm "re-organisation" :)
What's that funny bump outboard of the spark plug? I've no idea what it's for...
A bit of degreaser and some dremel work would have those bits nice and shiny, for sure :)
Best of luck Marty :)
I don't know what to make of that pitting either, the Rover heads seem to have a huge gasket area compared to the only other ones I've played with.
I have had very mixed results from tyre places when it comes to alignment. I guess it doesn't really pay them to do a good job :(
Top tips! I'll have to have a go at the radius arms when I get a chance. I don't know if a trip to Peterborough would be on the cards but it sounds intruiging :)
Marty, Chris,
I've got a freshly burnt 2012 CD for Chris - but is it worth me sending it if Marty wants me to test a 2015 version which I could copy?
I'm happy either way, just let me know.
Cheers,
Miles
Gordon, I've been asking myself the same question. It's certainly quieter and less clonky which makes it seem less wobbly. But trying to demonstrate the wobbles to Marty last weekend made me realise how tricky it is to reproduce the issue on demand.
There's a general improvement with the front driveshaft unable to move 10 mm back and forward whenever the axle is unloaded as it was doing before but I hit a change in the road surface tonight and got three rapid shakes of the steering wheel before it calmed down.
I think there's more to find but I don't know where to look next.
And she's back on the road :)
Quieter than ever... now I know what that strange intermittent noise was. DOH!
I'm sure you want to see the grim details!
It was a two pin, which is a relief. Before he even started, Bob said "Someone's been in here" based on the gasket and his final diagnosis was that someone had put new pinion bearings in but hadn't got the preload right and left them too tight by a long way. Eventually it let go and took out the rest of the diff. As you can see from the chipped teeth, it's not a surprise it was chuntering away as we drove up the M1!!!
There's a stock diff arriving in the morning. I can't afford the extra shiny so it'll have to do - and if it's installed correctly I'm sure it'll be fine :)
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