Who were the OEM compressor manufacturer then Marty?
I'd always worked on the premise that the yellow Dunlop badged one's were the better quality as opposed to the white label ones.
Not yet. I'll have to do a recorded instrumented run with the Nano. My driver for the calibration runs, while I'm monitoring the LPG on the laptop, has a reluctance to do full throttle power runs from TC lock up to infinity, so I'm going to have to drive myself :)
I did. 30mm diameter Delrin rod, like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ACETAL-POM-DELRIN-BLACK-ROD-ROUND-BAR-BILLET-8-70MM-DIAMETER-ENGINEERING-PLASTIC/172339946181?
Cut it with a saw, no machining required
Dimensions here:
http://www.mez.co.uk/p38-eas.html
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
Do i follow Rave for removing the trailing arms or is there a streamlined procedure? Rave says about deflating the Suspension
I'll let you know when I've done mine :)
I'll do the same as when I did the front I imagine. Pull delay timer. Put my normal height calibration blocks in. Deflate rear suspension so it's sitting on those. Lift up car on axle and support axle on stands (calibration blocks still in place). Put confidence boosting axle stands under chassis (!). Drop the arms off.
If I haven't posted anything else by the end of the week, my method is fatally flawed and I've been crushed, in which case, follow RAVE :)
After a fair bit of tramping up and down my favourite dual carriageway hill in the '02, at 500 rpm increments I've got the LPG mapping as close as I feel I can. Stable trims, good lambdas etc.
Normal road driving its trims are stable and don't wander off after periods of LPG running.
Which is great, except when running on LPG on foot to the floor acceleration it's way down on power to the extent that switching back to petrol during the exercise is like hitting turbo boost.
It's obviously (well, to me anyway) running weak on full throttle.
If I increase the LPG maps by any significant % to richen it up, it throws out the trims for "normal" driving.
Any ideas anyone?
There is a 4wd rolling road dyno in Plymouth, but it seems like a very expensive exercise, not to mention the mirth it'll cause among the Scooby/ Evo drivers who seem to be resident in the building!
Cheez- £100??
Did that include the cost of the new bushes?
I suppose that if they had to remove/ replace the radius arms that wasn't too bad though.
Going to be cracking on with the rear end of mine later on this week. Got the new Boges to go on, that new Panhard rod to fit and may as well get the radius arm bushes popped out and Lemforders pressed in.
Too late now, but confirmed that the panhard rod I linked to does come complete with Lemforder bushes!
Morat wrote:
1hr left to get home. I'm in the passenger seat now
Bloody hell, you've got a lot of faith in your Cruise Control, Morat
Dunno :)
I haven't bought it yet as I only decided yesterday to do the rear end on mine. Be worth asking the question from the supplier though.
It seemed to have a bit of everything and not enough of some things Marty. Certainly had GEMS injector O rings in it, though the kit was advertised for a Thor.
My blue one still has the cupped washers on upside down from the time I rebuilt it. I've sort of got used to the comforting clatter of the pump and its cured my pump paranoia of thinking the pump's running too much/ not enough/ at the wrong times.
I kind of miss it on the black one.
When I bought a head gasket kit with Elring head gaskets there was a paper gasket for that fitting in the kit. No O rings for it, but I had them in my O ring kit.
Strange, but I can understand how it might have got there.
Really?
This is what my leaky ones looked like from underneath. Can't see any resemblance :)
Rear panhard complete with Lemforder bushes can be bought almost as cheaply as bushes alone:
http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/233911/0/rod___tie
ANR3285 is part number for the rad arm bush- only 1 per arm :)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Land-Rover-Range-Rover-P38-1994-2002-PowerFlex-Radius-Arm-to-Chassis-Bush/332393382445?
Rear bushes on front radius arms (where they go into chassis) or rear radius arm bushes BPSM?
If it's the rear bushes on the front arms, you can use OEM for those rather than poly as there's nothing to press them into. Just slide one onto the big stud on the back of the arm before refitting the arm, locate the stud in its mount in the chassis, put other bush on with flanged washer and, making sure the radius arm is straight, use the nut to pull them in. Use lots of rubber lube to make sure they fit into chassis mount correctly.
I've no idea what that picture is of BPSM?
Well, it would give inlet temp readouts to matrix, do a calibration run on flaps and read any stored faults, which'd be good
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
Everything appears to work as it should, except the air should be hotter. It's warm, but set on HI, it should be unbearable.
Unbearable eh? I don't actually know what it should feel like as mine both live on Auto 20 degrees permanently, with an occasional foray to Prog when the windows are fogged or icy.
Must try it sometime
All those temps look about right.
I'm right in thinking you don't have dedicated diagnostics aren't I? You could get temps from various sensors/ HEVAC if you had...
If water at the right temp is flowing through the matrix, there's a temp drop between feed and return on the matrix blower fans are working properly and blend motors are calibrated and functioning as they should the only other thing that would reduce the temp of hot air coming from the heater would be leaks around the blend flaps internally on heater so that, in effect it's always blending cold air with the heated air.
Well you're now into the realms of having to take some temp readings from the feed and return pipes to the heater matrix. With the temp set on Hi Hi and the blowers on full there should be an appreciable temp difference between the two. Do it with the A/C switched to off.
Actually its probably a good time to get some hose temp readings generally and rad temps with car warmed up and gauge where it normally sits. You can then see whether the coolant is at its correct 90 ish degrees.
If you've got lpg software you can also get a temp reading from reducer.