Which is rather odd..

Normally i can leave her for over a week with no issues.

However 2 days ago I used the headlights and Fogs, 2 days later the battery is dead and i have a blown Fog light bulb??

Related?

I've had that bulb blow before, the one being the OSF

The only other thing I can think of is my Drivers mirror ejected at great velocity, i put it back together, if i put the wires on backwards would that cause any issues?

It's only started doing this since I used the lights!

Odd..

Any ideas?

I'm gonna check to see if she goes to sleep when left

How long does it usually take to put them to bed? LOL

Thank you

H

Anyone ever cut one open to see how the sidewalls are made?

Just curious lol

Any ideas gents?

My Rave won't load!

And i desperately need the torque for the locking clamp torques!!

Cheers

H

My boring commute was spiced up today with a little hustle with a late L322..

It still amazes me how these P38's handle the bends, he was up my bumper on the straights but had to back off on the twisty bits..

I glanced him in my mirror, never felt so smug!

The old P38's handle the road very well compared to other 4x4's certainly better than their jap counterparts!

Was tempted to get her up to a ton on the straights but refrained..

Love it!

Full of swarf and particles!

I did a simple fluid drain and refill in 2017 at 124k now at 127k i did a fluid and filter change..
the last filter change before me was 2003!!
The filter came apart with a pair of pliers..

Hmm..

Being I run Gas and petrol i have been reading up on E10 and I stumbled on this

These stories are but 4 or so days apart from each other lol

https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/cars/1308619/uk-fuel-pump-e10-petrol-changes-engine-damage
https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/cars/1310426/uk-fuel-e10-petrol-classic-car-damage-rubber

And this..

https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/cars/1313318/classic-cars-uk-fuel-e10-petrol-changes-damage

I reiterate the title!!

I've bought a 70mm and I' not really sure whether a 70mm can be used.

The idler I'm replacing is

Any ideas?

The idler below the AC compressor.

Anyone had this, just noticed mine is doing this occasionally..

Oddly only after the car has "A either been running or "B" has the key in the ignition..

If i removed the key and press the tailgate button it'll lock/unlock once, and then be fine for the repeated times I open the tailgate!

Odd..

Looking online at the Viscosity index of some oils, i've come to the conclusion that ELF and Total who are one the same are on top with a VI of 186..

Compared to an average of 160-170 from other brands..

Just curious to know what ya'll use on 'ere!!

The front accesory drive was quite noisy, a definite bearing failure!

The old tensioner below an original DAYCO part 20yr old.

https://youtu.be/EDUos1pW0Ow

The brand new Tensioner, again a DAYCO part was completely fuckered out the box, it sounded worse than the old one!!!

Rocked from side to side too!!

Not happy.

She needed a new alternator too, atleast the new one fitted!!!

I've seen it on a good few forums and it seems to work well.....

A bit of fun eh!!

I'll start...................................

1

After a few beers last night I staggered home feeling horny:

"How long have you been in?" asked the wife.

"About 5 minutes" I said.

"Why didn't you wake me?" she moaned.

I said, "because you'd have said no."

2

Young Paddy bought a donkey from a farmer for £100.
The farmer agreed to deliver the donkey the next day. The next day he drove up and said, 'Sorry son, but I have some bad news.
The donkey's died.' Paddy replied, 'Well then just give me my money back.' The farmer said, 'Can't do that. I've already spent it.'
Paddy said, 'OK, then, just bring me the dead donkey.' The farmer asked, 'What are you going to do with him?'
Paddy said, 'I'm going to raffle him off.' The farmer said, 'You can't raffle a dead donkey!'
Paddy said, 'Sure I can. Watch me. I just won't tell anybody he's dead.'
A month later, the farmer met up with Paddy and asked, ' What happened with that dead donkey?'
Paddy said, 'I raffled him off. I sold 500 tickets at £2 each and made a profit of £898'
The farmer said, 'Didn't anyone complain?'

Paddy said, 'Just the guy who won, so I gave him his £2 back....

Just wondering today after topping her off..

The oil is quite clear even after 1500mi,

Castrol Edge 10w60.

Anyone use it on the regular basis?

I've heard some people say it can wear out bags etc however I thought with what they go through when you're driving that wouldn't be the case?

Also are the bags supposed to completely depressurise when Access mode is selected or does it keep pressure in the bags?

Thanks

H

Roight chaps..

I have an issue with my LPG as known by almost all in the pub I suspect..

Originally it worked OK however one day an idiot "me" ran it out of gas, and that was the end!!

I noticed the audible "click" that would emanate from the LPG tank wasn't anymore,

And the LPG gauge/button would/is just flashing..

I pulled the cover off the tank..

had a gander inside and found this fairly innocent looking, relay????

i'm assuming it has ceased to do its intended job, whatever that was.. lol

The Tank itself if an 84ltr unit and seems to have been fitted to the titanic before being thrown into my old girl!

Absolutely covered in surface rot, and no water doesn't get in through the seals.

It has an OMVL vaporiser

OMVL DREAM INJECTORS

The switch.

cheers Gents.

She has a full tank of Gas and she has been running LPG since 2002 from what i can gather, which would explain how well it runs and how clean it is inside lol

My P38's Heating works really well..

As for the Aircon though....................

It stays Hot..

The air coming out the vents is also piss poor "to put it mildly" i've read up on another forum that the HVAC won't adjust the Blend motors while the Book symbol is illuminated, some say it is worth unplugging the HVAC waiting 10secs and replugging it, theoretically clearing the fault and allowing the car to try and adjust the motors..

Does this sound about right?

I've also looked at some who say you just have to repair the blend motors, or re-adjust them i'm assuming the dash has to come out to do them..?

She has had a New compressor pressure switches and condenser in the past few years so it would be nice to get it working!

Gents.

Just wondering if anyone has had success in replacing the motor brushes on the compressor..

I replaced my Compressor because the old one sounded weak and the output pressure didn't change that much even after a rebuild, and it started to stutter

Pulling it apart showed a housing full of carbon chunks and dust.

The brush on the left had seized in its housing which was odd, a good splash of leccy cleaner and a tap it popped out..

Anyone found replacements, and anyone found a way to hold them in while putting the motor back together?

H

Right i've had this a while..

When releasing the throttle quickly at lower than 50mph the car shunts.

I've got a feeling it is the radius arms giving up..

Doesn't do it when accelerating!

Any thoughts?

Just a general question..

My recent idle issue has made me think of oil pressure, today it has been sat at 150rpm when cold and 450 when hot, one thing i noticed is the Oil pressure light didn't flicker or come on solid..

Also when turning her off the Oil pressure light takes 7 seconds to come on again...

I'm guessing that is a good thing.. ??

She is running 10w60 Castrol Edge..

Motor sounds lovely too, even at a stupidly low idle!

Good evening gents..

Just was looking around my P38 and i've tried to ignore the scratched and dented bumpers since i bought it..

However now i find myself contemplating respraying them MC blue to match the bodywork

The issue is, only certain colours suit the body coloured bumpers, atleast IMO

what do ya'll think?

Right gentlemen

Anyone who owns a HSE/Vogue with the Wood/leather steering wheel, i can almost guarantee it has some form of degredation, especially being that the youngest P38 is 18 years young.

All that time being exposed to the sunlight will damage even the best leather out there..

In my case the wheel had started to go mank, the leather was starting to break down, and it looked very unpleasant...

Steps to restore this goes as follows..

1 Cleaning - now i do realise some have an adversity to cleaning things, but in this case it is a necessity if not done correctly the dye won't stick and you'll end up with a dirty sticky mess.

This is the kind of shit you can expect to come off, just imagine that the next time you touch the wheel on your P38, yuck..
In this instance I used baby wipes, it is gentle enough to not harm the hide, but strong enough to clean off the crap..
Don't use a Leather cleaner, as it likely will have conditioners in it or some kind of humectant to hold moisture and this again will harm progress....

2 Dry off the wheel and look at what you have to play with..

Looks crap doesn't it!!

3 The product required to restore this wheel can vary depending on what damage is done, in my case it was just surface, if there were dents or leather missing you'd need a specialist filler.

My application only requires a dye..

This is the product I used, it comes with a sponge and some liquid, as you'd expect..
The sponge itself has a split personality, as it is both an applicator and a remover!!!!

4 Application of the dye oddly requires you to sand the wheel, chances are the wheel is clean but quite slippy, the sponge has a rough edge to it, placing a towel on your lap to catch the scale, rub it up and down the wheel until the surface goes a Matt colour and the old sealant is level with the exposed leather, or in some cases the exposed leather is both level and slightly rough.

Goes without saying but you should mask the wheel off, so you'd don't get dye on the wood or plastic..

This is achieved after 2 light coats, don't be tempted to slap it on, patience is key and also don't use a drying aid, it has to flash off naturally..

Another 2 light coast sees it looking even better..

This coat No4 was left for 12hrs to cure and then you do something odd.....

Get the rough sponge or very fine sandpaper out again and remove any rises or scale that might of landed on the wet dye during the application and drying process, this also forms a basis for the last coat,
Do this only when it is 100% dry..

Once done give it the final coat, this one will be a light coat to fill in the scratches from the sandpaper and will serve as the final finish, so don't rush...

Done right it'll look like this.....

There will be a PT2 to this when i re varnish the wood, as mine is damaged, which is the reason for the masking tape remaining on for the moment..

Leave the final coat for 24hrs before touching..

HTH