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Odd one this...

driving around town today I notice a whirring that sounds like my Compressor, odd I thought as it was running constantly and never cutting off!!!!

Upon pulling over and checking the compressor, it was cool to the touch and obviously not running, however this annoying sound was still there...

I switched the heater fans on and they came on on problem, no untoward noises.

I did find out that it seemed to be coming from the interior temp sensor grill that is below the clock, It gets quieter when I cover the opening with my finger, or press the wood on the dash in with my hand..

When turning the ignition off there is a definitely whir of what sounds like a fan powering down...

I'm stumped!

doesn't sound like a heater fan.....

Any ideas?!

Cheers.

Gents..

My Car has always had an idle issue when cold.

I replaced my old IACV due to the fact the valve thing inside was seized solid.

A 2nd hand one was sourced and fitted, however it still idled bad for a few seconds when cold, but it was better..
She now sits at around 1350rpm when cold and it does settle down to just under 1000rpm, however if she is revved it sits at 1300 for a few seconds which with an Auto is an issue especially when trying to pull out of my estate with the car forcing against the brakes!

I've watched a few youtube videos and saw a chap clean an IACV on a BMW which looked similar and he said the thingy inside should slap side to side when you shake it?

Is that right?

Mine is stiff but not seized solid.

Also is there a "set point" that the blade/valve inside needs to be set at when assembled???

Cheers,

H

I should add, when hot she idles beautifully.

It acts like an old car that sits on choke for a tad too long, if that makes sense

My old Rangie has the Mudflaps they're 20yrs old now give or take a few months and as expected the bolt heads are non existant and the flaps themselves are starting to warp and twist due to the frames inside the rubber corroding, "I assume" and the rear NS flap has started to fall apart due to the frame rotting away they look crap to be fair..

Having looked underneath it seems they are held to the wing with what looks like metal clips that self tappers screw into?

Or is there a frame of some kind that hold them on?

Thanks

H

H

Does Anyone actually thrash the knockers off their cars once in a while?

Never really taken mine above 3000rpm, sometimes tempted to whack it in sport and put the hammer down...

Any element of truth to the "Italian tune up" do you think?

Just finished an EAS rebuild on my mates DHSE and while waiting for the Compressor to prime the system I noticed like always it got quite warm..

Not "HOT" but up past 65 degrees.

My V8 is the same even though there are no leaks, being that the Mosfets are rated at 175c and the transistors at 85c in the Drive pack, I was thinking whether it would be prudent to drill some vent holes in the side or the top of the EAS lid to help expel excess heat..

Anyone done this?

H

I'm not usually one to endorse the ramblings of these additive companies...

However after using both their PAS additive and Transmission stop slip, both of which worked really quite well I decided to try their oil additive.

My Old V8 recently started a nice Cam follower tick on cold start and when Hot, i'm assuming because the oil thinned out and that tappet lost prime..

At idle it was irritating the hell out of me so, whats to lose with the Lucas?

https://i.imgur.com/EWSWbBLl.jpg

Consistency wise it is very sticky, it leaves greasy strings like hot glue, so be wary of that!!

I drained out some of the 10w60 to make room..

enter image description here

New stuff took an age to pour in, in hindsight I should of warmed the bottle up..

enter image description here

Filled up

enter image description here

A good hard drive ensued, and upon returning home the TICK was no longer present, even with my ear in the arch which is where it was really prevalent..

I've since Started it from cold too, and the tap has disappeared there too...

So it sum up..

It does work in some cases....

Here is the Cold start rattle...

after being sat for 2 weeks

https://youtu.be/Pem043Ddn94

Hiya Chaps

since owning the car she's had issues with LPG it cuts in "when it feels like it" and she runs superb on the stuff..

However the issue is the Majority of the time she doesn't want to switch over, the button on my dash just flashes like a MOFO..

It cut in a few days ago for an entire journey up the M5 I happened to look over at the LPG and it had switched over.

For the first time in ages!

I've already shorted the temp sensor on the Reducer and I've checked the coil/solenoid thing on the tank, the only one I haven't look at yet is the one of the reducer...

If i run her on gas I can shut her off to fill up and it'll switch right back over, however if I leave it for over a day it is a lottery whether it works or not!!

She does run well on the stuff, i'd argue better than on petrol!

Any ideas?

I was on the road to Tarrington today when a nice looking red P38 coming the other way gave a wave!

Same happened yesterday with a green and a blue one!

Made me grin i'm not gonna lie..

You don't see that with other land rovers, not even my D2!

Anyone else have this with other P38s?

H

When I bought my massive white/blue elephant a few years ago I felt a great paranoia about how unreliable these P38's were known to be..

Over the past few months I've been replacing components on the almost daily basis "no joke" as it seems if I replace one thing something immediately falls right the hell off..

For example..

A few weeks ago She plummeted to the bumpstops due to a bad compressor, no biggie I thought so a rebuilt unit was fitted...

Literally 2 days later another "beep beep" EAS fault and it turned out I needed to replace the valveblock O rings due to a massive leak emerging from one of my O rings lol so I did that and she was fine for another week until I get to my current issue!

Which I hope to be fixed tomorra when a new sensor comes!

I won't mention the suspension bushes that disintegrated or the headliner that dropped when i had the sunroof open and filled the car with orange dust that got into my eyes and throat!

So while snot sneezing and tearing up like a right bastard, I was blind - good times...

The alternator and all the idlers failed..

Blend motors went to shit..

Sunroof pissed water in "fixed"

The list goes on

BECM fail..

pollen filters leaking "fixed"

Seized VCU

Whiny diff(s)

Rear calliper's that seized, and a pad that flew out and rendered the rear left caliper inoperative so I had to drive home with 1 working caliper.

Exhaust blow "fixed"

etc

Battery failed straight after I replaced the suspension.....

LOL

I seem to be bonding with this thing the more it breaks the more I like it!

A great distraction, I don't even get mad when it breaks!

Perhaps I've gone mad..

Everyone that knows me frequently remarks that it is cursed!

Maybe it is supernatural!

Anyway..

Back to reality.

H

One issue my car has is a "valve stuck" fault..

It says RH front i'm assuming it is RH from the drivers seat?

Or is it when you're looking at the car from the front?

The oddity is..

Using the 2000 scale on my Ohm meter, when the arm gets to this point...

enter image description here

Measuring the pin from the far right of my pic and the middle one, it gets to a point in its travel where it clicks slightly and goes open circuit, If I shift my common lead to the far left pin it continues to read etc 7

From this point it goes open circuit and I have to shift leads.

enter image description here

enter image description here

When on the 20k scale it is quite smooth it ranges from 1.20 to 2.45

On the 2000 scale it is a tad jumpy...

Am i barking up the wrong tree?

H

PS

That is the front right "as you sit in the drivers seat"

I do hope that is the "right front" lol

It is no secret that my paint is slowly deteriorating, and before anyone says it is because you polish it too much, I use Wax mainly so no degradation ;)

The reason I ask is how the hell do you remove the plastic lower sill covers

These things enter image description here

Another issue is my drivers side one is bulging out from the body near the front mudflap for whatever reason and it looks rather odd..

Next up i'm it a windscreen out job to do the roof properly?

Thanks

Just wondering now i have a recon unit, that I can barely hear.

How hot should it be after a 25mi drive?

I can touch it, my thermo says it is 58C

Does this sound about right?

Reason I ask is I can no longer hear when the pump was running, unlike the Dunlop I had before!

H

Any good ones that you'd recommend?

Not too keen on Rimmer Bros!

H

Roight!

Chaps I have a removed my old Valveblock ready for a rebuild when the O rings come at the weekend.

enter image description here

Most of the pipes came out without fuss, however I did notice the Drive pack was an odd shade!

enter image description here

The area around the exhaust was black

enter image description here

The desiccant looks alright

enter image description here

Pipes look like they've been in and out a few times.

enter image description here

I've not touched it in 3yrs and neither has the previous owner or the chap before him, so it's been atleast 7 years + since it's last rebuild, if ever!

The block itself also has numbers scribbled on it, no idea if this signifies anything?

enter image description here

More to come later when it comes apart i'm sure!

Hello gents.

My Brand new Hankook battery was found stone dead after a week of inactivity around 2v registering..

I've recharged it and the current drain when awake is 0.90 Amps..

If I rig my multimeter and close the bonnet it drops to 0.62..

Does that sound about right?

H

Gents..

Following on from my Compressor failure i'm gonna rebuild the valveblock.

Only question I have is which kit to buy?

There seems to be quite a few, some have orange seals, others black etc

Any particular ones to avoid?

Also is it worth applying Vaseline to the seals, or do they go in dry "ooh er!"

Thanks!

Drove her 68mi to Borth for a break..

Half way home the EAS plummets to the bumpstops and the compressor is scalding hot, so i'm assuming it was feeding a leak..

Being that she sits fine without dropping would the next port of call be the Valve-block seals?

From what I understand it'll go on the wobbly if the compressor overheats too many times?

Bastard thing had to drive home 30mi on the bumpstops.

I'm considering it due to the fact most Autogas services in my neck of the woods have disappeared.

From what i can gather from my "brief" looking into the subject, you can have one installed..

There are some guideline's i'm sure, any Autogas pros have any advice?

We have 2 1200 IIRC tanks that supply gas for a central heating..

Are these the same Tanks that can be used if filling a vehicle?

H

Which is rather odd..

Normally i can leave her for over a week with no issues.

However 2 days ago I used the headlights and Fogs, 2 days later the battery is dead and i have a blown Fog light bulb??

Related?

I've had that bulb blow before, the one being the OSF

The only other thing I can think of is my Drivers mirror ejected at great velocity, i put it back together, if i put the wires on backwards would that cause any issues?

It's only started doing this since I used the lights!

Odd..

Any ideas?

I'm gonna check to see if she goes to sleep when left

How long does it usually take to put them to bed? LOL

Thank you

H