Is that its purpose?
Mine doesn't seem to be snug/tight around the sunroof aperture I can quite easily slip a credit card down between the sunroof seal and the roof when it is closed.
I appreciate it isn't going to be a perfect seal, hence why there are drip trays, however looking at the sunroof when its open, there is little to stop water running past the seal and down the inside of the glass.
Mine seems to have an awful lot of condensation which drips off the sunroof on to the centre console, surely that isn't normal?
Other sunroofs I've looked at have what looks like a draft/wind noise reducing strip just and a seal that goes around the cassette to stop water running inside, however the P38 doesn't have this?
This is a R50 Mini sunroof my R50 has a pano roof and i near 20yrs old, no rust and it is 100% water tight
note the 2 seals.
I was thinking about putting a draft excluder or a 2.5mm rubber strip to help plump up the seal?
Yesterday I replaced the o2 sensors on the V8 and did a basic tune up with some new plugs and leads.
Afterwards just to satisfy my curiosity I tried to balance a 50p coin on the intake and rocker covers, and to my amazement they stayed in place
Which got me thinking about how well balanced a V8 is - a chap I worked with noted they were very "wobbly" and if you want perfect balance get a straight 6 or V12.
And yes the I6 is recognised as the most well balanced of all setups but is a V8 really that far behind?
How much range should I expect from my tank..
I'm guessing it has a max capacity of around 75ltrs
From a 75ltr fill i'm getting around 185mi
That sound about right?
H
What does it do?
On the road to work it is a winding B road which is quite nice to fling the old bus around, the only issue is the TQ lock up which under light throttle kicks in at 35mph which is a pain in the arse especially when the engine just bogs unless I give it 1/2 throttle to make it kick down, the issue then it it will immediately change back up!!
Another annoyance is when I let off to go around a bend or for a blind hill, it changes up mid hill which is a pain in the arse.
In my other automatic, Sport mode stops it locking up the TQ does it do this with the p38?
Never used S in the P38 to be fair, does it make any difference!
cheers H
Yep!
This time it is the front corner of the headliner under the sun visor is getting wet, and only on the captains side, the drinkers side is fine..
At the moment..
I've had this before and seemed to fix it, the sunroof frame had rotted and the glass was pulling away from the frame near the rear of the frame, I sealed it however what was happening was water was wicking under the seal and along the inside of the glass, which subsequently soaked the headliner..
I'm thinking of pulling the seal off the sunroof completely and sealing around under the glass, do you have to pull the cassette to remove the seal?
The water isn't running down the screen.
The sunroof drains are clear and all attached, I've poured water down them with no ill effect
Anyone had this?
Just curious as to what engine oil you use in your P38s
I'm using 10w60
Thinking of a 5w40 next oil change...
H
Odd one this...
driving around town today I notice a whirring that sounds like my Compressor, odd I thought as it was running constantly and never cutting off!!!!
Upon pulling over and checking the compressor, it was cool to the touch and obviously not running, however this annoying sound was still there...
I switched the heater fans on and they came on on problem, no untoward noises.
I did find out that it seemed to be coming from the interior temp sensor grill that is below the clock, It gets quieter when I cover the opening with my finger, or press the wood on the dash in with my hand..
When turning the ignition off there is a definitely whir of what sounds like a fan powering down...
I'm stumped!
doesn't sound like a heater fan.....
Any ideas?!
Cheers.
Gents..
My Car has always had an idle issue when cold.
I replaced my old IACV due to the fact the valve thing inside was seized solid.
A 2nd hand one was sourced and fitted, however it still idled bad for a few seconds when cold, but it was better..
She now sits at around 1350rpm when cold and it does settle down to just under 1000rpm, however if she is revved it sits at 1300 for a few seconds which with an Auto is an issue especially when trying to pull out of my estate with the car forcing against the brakes!
I've watched a few youtube videos and saw a chap clean an IACV on a BMW which looked similar and he said the thingy inside should slap side to side when you shake it?
Is that right?
Mine is stiff but not seized solid.
Also is there a "set point" that the blade/valve inside needs to be set at when assembled???
Cheers,
H
I should add, when hot she idles beautifully.
It acts like an old car that sits on choke for a tad too long, if that makes sense
My old Rangie has the Mudflaps they're 20yrs old now give or take a few months and as expected the bolt heads are non existant and the flaps themselves are starting to warp and twist due to the frames inside the rubber corroding, "I assume" and the rear NS flap has started to fall apart due to the frame rotting away they look crap to be fair..
Having looked underneath it seems they are held to the wing with what looks like metal clips that self tappers screw into?
Or is there a frame of some kind that hold them on?
Thanks
H
H
Does Anyone actually thrash the knockers off their cars once in a while?
Never really taken mine above 3000rpm, sometimes tempted to whack it in sport and put the hammer down...
Any element of truth to the "Italian tune up" do you think?
Just finished an EAS rebuild on my mates DHSE and while waiting for the Compressor to prime the system I noticed like always it got quite warm..
Not "HOT" but up past 65 degrees.
My V8 is the same even though there are no leaks, being that the Mosfets are rated at 175c and the transistors at 85c in the Drive pack, I was thinking whether it would be prudent to drill some vent holes in the side or the top of the EAS lid to help expel excess heat..
Anyone done this?
H
I'm not usually one to endorse the ramblings of these additive companies...
However after using both their PAS additive and Transmission stop slip, both of which worked really quite well I decided to try their oil additive.
My Old V8 recently started a nice Cam follower tick on cold start and when Hot, i'm assuming because the oil thinned out and that tappet lost prime..
At idle it was irritating the hell out of me so, whats to lose with the Lucas?
https://i.imgur.com/EWSWbBLl.jpg
Consistency wise it is very sticky, it leaves greasy strings like hot glue, so be wary of that!!
I drained out some of the 10w60 to make room..
New stuff took an age to pour in, in hindsight I should of warmed the bottle up..
Filled up
A good hard drive ensued, and upon returning home the TICK was no longer present, even with my ear in the arch which is where it was really prevalent..
I've since Started it from cold too, and the tap has disappeared there too...
So it sum up..
It does work in some cases....
Here is the Cold start rattle...
after being sat for 2 weeks
Hiya Chaps
since owning the car she's had issues with LPG it cuts in "when it feels like it" and she runs superb on the stuff..
However the issue is the Majority of the time she doesn't want to switch over, the button on my dash just flashes like a MOFO..
It cut in a few days ago for an entire journey up the M5 I happened to look over at the LPG and it had switched over.
For the first time in ages!
I've already shorted the temp sensor on the Reducer and I've checked the coil/solenoid thing on the tank, the only one I haven't look at yet is the one of the reducer...
If i run her on gas I can shut her off to fill up and it'll switch right back over, however if I leave it for over a day it is a lottery whether it works or not!!
She does run well on the stuff, i'd argue better than on petrol!
Any ideas?
I was on the road to Tarrington today when a nice looking red P38 coming the other way gave a wave!
Same happened yesterday with a green and a blue one!
Made me grin i'm not gonna lie..
You don't see that with other land rovers, not even my D2!
Anyone else have this with other P38s?
H
When I bought my massive white/blue elephant a few years ago I felt a great paranoia about how unreliable these P38's were known to be..
Over the past few months I've been replacing components on the almost daily basis "no joke" as it seems if I replace one thing something immediately falls right the hell off..
For example..
A few weeks ago She plummeted to the bumpstops due to a bad compressor, no biggie I thought so a rebuilt unit was fitted...
Literally 2 days later another "beep beep" EAS fault and it turned out I needed to replace the valveblock O rings due to a massive leak emerging from one of my O rings lol so I did that and she was fine for another week until I get to my current issue!
Which I hope to be fixed tomorra when a new sensor comes!
I won't mention the suspension bushes that disintegrated or the headliner that dropped when i had the sunroof open and filled the car with orange dust that got into my eyes and throat!
So while snot sneezing and tearing up like a right bastard, I was blind - good times...
The alternator and all the idlers failed..
Blend motors went to shit..
Sunroof pissed water in "fixed"
The list goes on
BECM fail..
pollen filters leaking "fixed"
Seized VCU
Whiny diff(s)
Rear calliper's that seized, and a pad that flew out and rendered the rear left caliper inoperative so I had to drive home with 1 working caliper.
Exhaust blow "fixed"
etc
Battery failed straight after I replaced the suspension.....
LOL
I seem to be bonding with this thing the more it breaks the more I like it!
A great distraction, I don't even get mad when it breaks!
Perhaps I've gone mad..
Everyone that knows me frequently remarks that it is cursed!
Maybe it is supernatural!
Anyway..
Back to reality.
H
One issue my car has is a "valve stuck" fault..
It says RH front i'm assuming it is RH from the drivers seat?
Or is it when you're looking at the car from the front?
The oddity is..
Using the 2000 scale on my Ohm meter, when the arm gets to this point...
Measuring the pin from the far right of my pic and the middle one, it gets to a point in its travel where it clicks slightly and goes open circuit, If I shift my common lead to the far left pin it continues to read etc 7
From this point it goes open circuit and I have to shift leads.
When on the 20k scale it is quite smooth it ranges from 1.20 to 2.45
On the 2000 scale it is a tad jumpy...
Am i barking up the wrong tree?
H
PS
That is the front right "as you sit in the drivers seat"
I do hope that is the "right front" lol
It is no secret that my paint is slowly deteriorating, and before anyone says it is because you polish it too much, I use Wax mainly so no degradation ;)
The reason I ask is how the hell do you remove the plastic lower sill covers
These things 
Another issue is my drivers side one is bulging out from the body near the front mudflap for whatever reason and it looks rather odd..
Next up i'm it a windscreen out job to do the roof properly?
Thanks
Just wondering now i have a recon unit, that I can barely hear.
How hot should it be after a 25mi drive?
I can touch it, my thermo says it is 58C
Does this sound about right?
Reason I ask is I can no longer hear when the pump was running, unlike the Dunlop I had before!
H
Any good ones that you'd recommend?
Not too keen on Rimmer Bros!
H
Roight!
Chaps I have a removed my old Valveblock ready for a rebuild when the O rings come at the weekend.
Most of the pipes came out without fuss, however I did notice the Drive pack was an odd shade!
The area around the exhaust was black
The desiccant looks alright
Pipes look like they've been in and out a few times.
I've not touched it in 3yrs and neither has the previous owner or the chap before him, so it's been atleast 7 years + since it's last rebuild, if ever!
The block itself also has numbers scribbled on it, no idea if this signifies anything?
More to come later when it comes apart i'm sure!