Gents.

Just wondering if anyone has had success in replacing the motor brushes on the compressor..

I replaced my Compressor because the old one sounded weak and the output pressure didn't change that much even after a rebuild, and it started to stutter

Pulling it apart showed a housing full of carbon chunks and dust.

The brush on the left had seized in its housing which was odd, a good splash of leccy cleaner and a tap it popped out..

Anyone found replacements, and anyone found a way to hold them in while putting the motor back together?

H

Right i've had this a while..

When releasing the throttle quickly at lower than 50mph the car shunts.

I've got a feeling it is the radius arms giving up..

Doesn't do it when accelerating!

Any thoughts?

Just a general question..

My recent idle issue has made me think of oil pressure, today it has been sat at 150rpm when cold and 450 when hot, one thing i noticed is the Oil pressure light didn't flicker or come on solid..

Also when turning her off the Oil pressure light takes 7 seconds to come on again...

I'm guessing that is a good thing.. ??

She is running 10w60 Castrol Edge..

Motor sounds lovely too, even at a stupidly low idle!

Good evening gents..

Just was looking around my P38 and i've tried to ignore the scratched and dented bumpers since i bought it..

However now i find myself contemplating respraying them MC blue to match the bodywork

The issue is, only certain colours suit the body coloured bumpers, atleast IMO

what do ya'll think?

Right gentlemen

Anyone who owns a HSE/Vogue with the Wood/leather steering wheel, i can almost guarantee it has some form of degredation, especially being that the youngest P38 is 18 years young.

All that time being exposed to the sunlight will damage even the best leather out there..

In my case the wheel had started to go mank, the leather was starting to break down, and it looked very unpleasant...

Steps to restore this goes as follows..

1 Cleaning - now i do realise some have an adversity to cleaning things, but in this case it is a necessity if not done correctly the dye won't stick and you'll end up with a dirty sticky mess.

This is the kind of shit you can expect to come off, just imagine that the next time you touch the wheel on your P38, yuck..
In this instance I used baby wipes, it is gentle enough to not harm the hide, but strong enough to clean off the crap..
Don't use a Leather cleaner, as it likely will have conditioners in it or some kind of humectant to hold moisture and this again will harm progress....

2 Dry off the wheel and look at what you have to play with..

Looks crap doesn't it!!

3 The product required to restore this wheel can vary depending on what damage is done, in my case it was just surface, if there were dents or leather missing you'd need a specialist filler.

My application only requires a dye..

This is the product I used, it comes with a sponge and some liquid, as you'd expect..
The sponge itself has a split personality, as it is both an applicator and a remover!!!!

4 Application of the dye oddly requires you to sand the wheel, chances are the wheel is clean but quite slippy, the sponge has a rough edge to it, placing a towel on your lap to catch the scale, rub it up and down the wheel until the surface goes a Matt colour and the old sealant is level with the exposed leather, or in some cases the exposed leather is both level and slightly rough.

Goes without saying but you should mask the wheel off, so you'd don't get dye on the wood or plastic..

This is achieved after 2 light coats, don't be tempted to slap it on, patience is key and also don't use a drying aid, it has to flash off naturally..

Another 2 light coast sees it looking even better..

This coat No4 was left for 12hrs to cure and then you do something odd.....

Get the rough sponge or very fine sandpaper out again and remove any rises or scale that might of landed on the wet dye during the application and drying process, this also forms a basis for the last coat,
Do this only when it is 100% dry..

Once done give it the final coat, this one will be a light coat to fill in the scratches from the sandpaper and will serve as the final finish, so don't rush...

Done right it'll look like this.....

There will be a PT2 to this when i re varnish the wood, as mine is damaged, which is the reason for the masking tape remaining on for the moment..

Leave the final coat for 24hrs before touching..

HTH

EAS software doesn't give me the "good idle"

and it keeps flickering green and red...

The car is also sitting pissed again, and i can't adjust it!!

piece of shyte.

I use this thread to introduce the other Money pit in my life ;)

My beloved MY1999 Land Rover discovery II TD5..

Bought in December 2018 as an early Christmas present to myself she was/is truly mint!!

Built in 1999 painted in Blenheim silver metallic with the offroad pack..

Bought with 177k and now on 185k it is a great thing to drive, and everything works...

I even bought it from a dealer a hundred yards away from her supplying dealer in Droitwich..
It was a great car to drive to and from Droitwich "where i was working" at the time 60mi there and back.

In the few months i had her an Alive stage II map and Turbo were fitted along with a few other things stock these things usually put out 136hp and 310nm with the map it takes it up to 170'ish HP and 390nm and she does go very well...

With her on the road i struggled to justify putting the P38 on the road..

However when leaving my workplaces carpark i decided to giver her some hoof and the flexplate shattered!!

so..

P38 back on the road and the TD5 lies in wait...

Anyway Lockdown blabbering on!!

I'm board! lol

I'm gonna drop the autobox off next week "hopefully"

Anyone else LOL

Just wondering..

Have been dragging a Unimog around with mine, close to 10t IIRC...

Low range 1st - The Morse chain in the T/box is loving life....

These cars do have muscle...

Any road going loads?

How do they tow at speed near the limit?

I've had the old bus on the road for a few months now, and driven her when i can..

I could leave her for over 2 weeks unaffected..

However i didn't have the interior lights connected...

Yesterday i connected the lights, and the day after the battery was down to 9v, even though they didn't stay on...

I've recharged the battery and all is well, it is important to know, she had sat a week, before i added the lights...

I noted the Map reading lights in the main front light didn't work, could the car still pass a currant through even if the bulb was kapput, the oddity is BOTH map reading bulbs are knackered. which seems unlikely to be coincidental?

H

Hiya gents..

When fiddling around with the rear of the car i noticed the rear bumper mount, the outrigger from the chassis has snapped in half..

corrosion would be my main culprit, but in fiddling with it, the rust is only surface.

could they break in the event of a slight shunt up the rear?

the bumper is also slightly out of alignment, i guess a fabricated bracket would be the way forward?

Oh and there is this...

any idea as to why that would be there?

a dent repair, maybe?

Cheers H

Ever been so annoyed at something, that you want to burn it?

Well in my case the P38 has been pissing water in for a while, i'd sealed the filters up, and like a fool believed that it couldn't be leaking from there again!!

The easiest person to fool is yourself etc etc..

Anyway..

In an effort to find out the specific area as to where the water was getting in, i got various jugs filled with water and a colourant!!

The colour is key, working from the bottom up "for obvious reasons" you use a different colour for each section, if the water that leaks into the footwell is a specific colour you know "roughly" which area is leaking..

The problem with drenching the car with a hose is it soaks all areas in water and it is hard to pinpoint which area is leaking, using the hose method we narrowed it down betweem the sunroof and scuttle, not very accurate!!

This is the state of the inside after drenching it with a hose..

Not great as you can see, this is after drenching the whole car, at this point water could be getting in anywhere!!

To narrow down the leak i mixed water with MER car polish which is a horrible cloudy stuff, and it worked well, i drenched the pollen filter covers first..

After taking a seconds i opened the door to be greeted with this!!

clearly the MER is eeking its way past somewhere..

It is also worth noting i put the hose inside the scuttle and nothing leaked..

Upon opening the "sealed" pollen filter covers i was greeted with this...

A lesson to be learnt from this is..

clean the covers off before resealing!!

Now i appreciate some old hands will laugh and tell me to fook 'orf..

but i thought i'd share!!

cheers,

Ever get that feeling?

Fitted a new EAS compressor and had to breach lockdown to get some essential supplies, my Asthma inhaler among them..

Anyway half way there it is pissing down, doing 50mph down the A49 the right hand wiper comes off its spindle and tangles up with the left one!!
Ah fook..

So luckily i had the forethought of always RainX coating my glass and the water is beading right off, but it is still a ballache..

Anyway, I manage 5mi later to pull into a carpark and fix the issue with some tools i have in the back, all the while rain is pouring out the sky at a rate of knots

After fiddling around with it for 5 mins i had it set and i continued onwards..

Only to find once the wipers were fixed the sun came out and the rain stopped!!!

Ahhhhhhhhhhh!!!

At the shop i then noticed i had a very soft tyre, luckily i have green slime on me and a pump, so that was also tended too..

These P38's...

Ahhhhh!!!

Oh and it doesn't really fit in carpark spaces!!

I've bought myself a cable for the EAS, i've got the compressor fitted, but i need to reset the fault and set the heights..

My P38 has always looked pissed at any height..

An example..

NS rear on high mode.

OS rear in high.

OS front on high..

NS Front on high..

she likes to lean to the left it seems..

There are calibration blocks to make, i've read, any tips on the lengths and the material to make them from?

I have a mitre saw and all the gear...

"I Hope"

Yes gents it's happened...

Driving to the shops, came back out she was sat level...

Drove home and just 2 miles from home i get "EAS FAULT" and she drops on her arse!

all 4 wheels in the arches...

I've taken the compressor out and run a feed to it manually and the outflow of air i can block very easily with my finger..

So thinking the Piston ring is at fault i took the "cylinder head" off and the barrel came off and the O ring is ruined, and the piston ring is concrete hard + it is got loads of play between the piston seal and barrel.

Pictures..

Next up gents is the cable.

there are a fair few on ebay. what do ya use?

Cheers gents as always

I've had a water leak with this piece of magnificence since i bought her, however i've sealed and prodded every know orifice that can leak, and now i'm stuck with the old water from her past leak..

I've tried folding the carpet up and squeezing it out, but it seems very dense, and even after minutes of squishing it still is full of water..

I'm tempted to cut the foam out, but it's already disintegrating and cutting it will only end up with a pile of unusable shit..

Would propping the carpet up and using a heatgun on low allow the foam to dry out do ya'll think?

H

Just a question chaps..

I hear Boge are the ones to go for, however I could only find the fronts, the rear seemed to be MIA so i went for Terrafirma thinking their "pro sport" series of shockers should firm up the ride and make it less of a bouncy castle..

It is spongy but not in a comfortable way..

Any words of wisdom!

Feel free to give a bollocking LOL

Already got the tin hat on!!!!

H

was thinking earlier when fitting my new V8 badge..

Has anyone ever had the P38 up to it's listed Top speed?

My book says the 4.6 thor has a " top speed " of 125mph..

I wonder..

By this i mean mistake!!

In my case it was Jan 2018 when i put the bonnet up slightly to charge the battery on a dry cold winters night..

But as it happens overnight, this happened...

Whoops..

Just ordered some Castrol Edge FST 10w60 for the P38..

Anyone else used it?

H

EAS is in pucker order..

However the ride is akin if not worse than my old D2 which has saggy old coils..

Would this be in part to the fact the shockers are original, would it be worth throwing a set of Boge or Bilsteins on it?

Cheers