so what is the official number , thats one more

good to see you have it going again :)

Merry Christmas to all and a much better year to come, all the best for those that are stuck in lock down, keep your chin up men .

i think they are called pressure plugs , basically a tapered hex plug , will not wind all the way in , just another option to look at.

that says it all , you will have no oil pressure when it thins out.

if you had a hoist of your own you would have a lifting frame for gearboxes and the very heavy TC which i have not had the pleasure of playing with yet and yes it would be one off those jobs. in comparison to other exhausts i have dealt with it was easier than some as i didn't remove the engine pipes, i didn't have to deal with rusty bolts on the manifolds, that can be a job in itself .

i spent all day repairing my exhaust , removed one from another vehicle and put it on mine , it actually fitted would you believe. this must be the worst job you can do without a hoist IMHO

congratulations Gordon on your new addition to the clan

you can buy leds to fit the lights, i done the interior with them , makes a big difference.
i do like the mods to the lights so that you can turn them off and on when needed, clever how you cut them down.

if you are gluing strips on , are they the foam type like the stuff on wind shields, if they are you need a prepping fluid . they use it when vinyl wrapping cars etc . its a 3M product

defiantly a thing , after towing a friend to Hobart after a brake down (FJ cruiser and trailer near 4 ton), slow trip down from top of state 400km , defiantly had more spirit on the way home . as for giving it a rev try 4000 +rpm low range top gear along the cape beach 13km through soft sand , speed needed to keep on top of sand , fuel usage was 36L to 100km.
with older cars if you drove the legs of them occasionally it would get the carbon of the valves an pistons and if you used a fuel conditioner it would clean out the varnish and crap from the carby as well , of cause with the rover its a computer tune ,self adjusting to conditions, also a fuel cleaner will help clean injectors the same as a carby
PS if you are going to use a fuel conditioner use a good one that is designed to remove the varnish and rubbish will cost a dollar , the cheap ones are basically diesel in a bottle so a litre of diesel will do the same .

i would use them to . the good thing about the rocker assembly is its 4 bolts and on the bench plus the cover of coarse, so if not happy easy to replace
when they do sets on heads they cut them with a tool now, no stones, so they are very accurate , no lapping in required
not shore about these heads but when i had the heads done on my old 3.5 L when they cut the seats they shone like mirrors because of the hi nickle content in the seats , i imagine these are the same. looks good .

i went and payed a bill today came out and the rover would not go . turned the key a couple of times up came engine disable , want the f.... is going on . jumped out locked the car unlocked the car put the key in the ignition ,, still bloody nothing no alarms nothing ,started swearing at the dog , bitched for a bit and then noticed it was in drive not park , put it in park fired right up , bloody safety features !!!!

outside of the stainless ends i dont see any real benefit . the problem with brake lines is usually the inside closes up from the reaction from the brake fluid more so the outer rubber deteriorating or the ends rust as you mentioned . its rare to have a rubber brake line fail unless its been stretched or fiscally damaged, and as mentioned you shouldn't crimp as that can pinch the rubber lines and cause a failure
at the end of the day its about personal choice and costs , are they affordable or expensive in comparison to standard lines?

you will want mains, big ends and a set of rings . thats the minimum . if their is no lip at the top of the bore then a light hone and another set of rings , if their is a lip then i recommend boring to clean up the bore. it will be outer round? this will require pistons and rings(over sized usually 20 thou)
crank grind if worn or ruffed up
cam bearings replaced have this done when being bored
welsh plugs
if you not comfortable fitting the crank or any other part just ask the engine repairer how or if they can do it for you.
hope that helps, or a least confuses the crap out of you. its not hard , nothing money and time wont fix like all repairs, keep it clean.

here in Australia braided lines are not allowed on registered vehicles only play toys . i replaced the rubber lines on my 64 beetle (buggy ) they where 50 years old . how long do you want them to last .
the braiding on the lines can wear and mark the rubber hose under it so its not a good idea in my book as the wear comes from the outside . thats my 2 cents worth , not worth the expense IMHO

its more about cost , if you can afford to replace, buy as a kit , thats a quality branded kit not some Chinese or unnamed white box ?you have to dismantle to see if its worn . the wear will be on the bottom of the shaft and rockers , just move the rockers around and look for wear , slide them half of the seat area and see if it has wear around these areas , turn the rocker upside down and see if the clearance is different , this will show the wear in the rocker . if you want to clean the shafts use something like brasso ( non abrasive liquid polish). in some cases its very obvious and other not so, its now up to your discretion or the repairer
PS whats the inside of the motor like?

if he takes 10 thou of one head he will take it off the other or they will be unbalanced , if he removes the valves he will most likely reface them and do the seats on the heads as well, and fit new valve stem seals
as for the rocker gear if you dismantle you will see the hard metal on the shafts has most likely worn while the rockers are most likely good(its strange how the hard steels wear against the softer alloys) so i would replace the shafts before the rocker gear unless the rocker gear has wear then do it all.
how is the appearance of the inside of the motor , is it black and crusty or oily and clean

welcome to the pub

when it came to removing the screw that holds the o rings i drilled the head off it , took about 2 minutes . the screw will not undo as it had rusted from the back . with the dash out i removed the pipe work and removed the screw from the other side , easy. you dont have to remove the dash the pipes come out easily anyway