if you offset the rack you will block off your tail lights then you will have to put some form of lights in your rear bumper like in a pootrol . its a lot easier to move the number plate than the lights?
PS in Australia patrols have their lights in the bumper because the spare is on the back door and the visual for the rear brake is obscurer ed so they tell me , thats why the rear lights on most patrols dont work they dont even have holes to put the globes in , but you can buy them and simply plug them in.

just looked at your pics very good , as for the swivel pin assembly most use a stub axle from a trailer for ease of assembly. (off the shelf component) just a thought .

sport mode also has influence when negotiating in hill descent low range (it may stop the TQ from locking up, not 100% shore ) its suppose to do something ?
basically it changes the shift pattern only .

when it came to testing my MAF i made up a wire loom to pin test the unit with a multi meter. you can stick pins in the plugs but that damages the wiring . i just used utilux cable clips , cut and grind them down to fit in the female ends and cut the other in halve and squash together for the male ends. put heat shrink on the open ends so not to short out anything (if you put power though the signal wire on the MAF you will be looking for a new ECU)
from memory their is 3 wires
power wire has 12v runs hotwire
signal wire will vary with load read from .1v to 5v the reading from this should be stable , increase and decrease evenly , not erratic, if it jumps around its likely a faulty MAF
other will have 5v from ECU
do not put 12v through signal wire it will blow up the ECU.
please note that there is alot off variables associated with the maf , it is a trimming devise for the ECU to set up fuel injection rates in association with air temp water temp engine temp etc etc , if you have other influences eg gas injection it will interfere with readings as it calibrates for it
the only way i could test my MAF was with a test cable and a multi meter. well thats my 2 cents worth hope that helps .

wilts it looks bad it could of been worse ,lucky

well im going away tomorrow so we have some work to do , well at least talk about what work we should be doing
do we get fireworks :)

so what is the official number , thats one more

good to see you have it going again :)

Merry Christmas to all and a much better year to come, all the best for those that are stuck in lock down, keep your chin up men .

i think they are called pressure plugs , basically a tapered hex plug , will not wind all the way in , just another option to look at.

that says it all , you will have no oil pressure when it thins out.

if you had a hoist of your own you would have a lifting frame for gearboxes and the very heavy TC which i have not had the pleasure of playing with yet and yes it would be one off those jobs. in comparison to other exhausts i have dealt with it was easier than some as i didn't remove the engine pipes, i didn't have to deal with rusty bolts on the manifolds, that can be a job in itself .

i spent all day repairing my exhaust , removed one from another vehicle and put it on mine , it actually fitted would you believe. this must be the worst job you can do without a hoist IMHO

congratulations Gordon on your new addition to the clan

you can buy leds to fit the lights, i done the interior with them , makes a big difference.
i do like the mods to the lights so that you can turn them off and on when needed, clever how you cut them down.

if you are gluing strips on , are they the foam type like the stuff on wind shields, if they are you need a prepping fluid . they use it when vinyl wrapping cars etc . its a 3M product

defiantly a thing , after towing a friend to Hobart after a brake down (FJ cruiser and trailer near 4 ton), slow trip down from top of state 400km , defiantly had more spirit on the way home . as for giving it a rev try 4000 +rpm low range top gear along the cape beach 13km through soft sand , speed needed to keep on top of sand , fuel usage was 36L to 100km.
with older cars if you drove the legs of them occasionally it would get the carbon of the valves an pistons and if you used a fuel conditioner it would clean out the varnish and crap from the carby as well , of cause with the rover its a computer tune ,self adjusting to conditions, also a fuel cleaner will help clean injectors the same as a carby
PS if you are going to use a fuel conditioner use a good one that is designed to remove the varnish and rubbish will cost a dollar , the cheap ones are basically diesel in a bottle so a litre of diesel will do the same .

i would use them to . the good thing about the rocker assembly is its 4 bolts and on the bench plus the cover of coarse, so if not happy easy to replace
when they do sets on heads they cut them with a tool now, no stones, so they are very accurate , no lapping in required
not shore about these heads but when i had the heads done on my old 3.5 L when they cut the seats they shone like mirrors because of the hi nickle content in the seats , i imagine these are the same. looks good .

i went and payed a bill today came out and the rover would not go . turned the key a couple of times up came engine disable , want the f.... is going on . jumped out locked the car unlocked the car put the key in the ignition ,, still bloody nothing no alarms nothing ,started swearing at the dog , bitched for a bit and then noticed it was in drive not park , put it in park fired right up , bloody safety features !!!!

outside of the stainless ends i dont see any real benefit . the problem with brake lines is usually the inside closes up from the reaction from the brake fluid more so the outer rubber deteriorating or the ends rust as you mentioned . its rare to have a rubber brake line fail unless its been stretched or fiscally damaged, and as mentioned you shouldn't crimp as that can pinch the rubber lines and cause a failure
at the end of the day its about personal choice and costs , are they affordable or expensive in comparison to standard lines?