There’s a question, having never pulled a left hooker apart I wouldn’t know, but I bet Richard does,,
Ps welcome to our happy forum
I looked at the page on workshop manual, doesn’t really explain much, it’s just last time there was 3 of them all fluffing about, logically, I’d say centralise the steering box, then adjust front left ( as the bar goes there first, then jump onto front right,, might be easier it the trackrod end is popped off the rh for first adjustment?
I’m getting better Richard,, still have days where I can post a pic, and the next day I can’t 🤬
Hi guys,
No 1, does anyone have the torques for radius arms bolts.
No 2, does anyone have the procedure for tracking, Its always felt ok, but as I’m doing the radius arm bushes, im gonna have it retracked, it took them about an hour last time, but steering wheel was slightly out ( which pees me off )
I will watch them this time to make sure they do it as per book,,
Thanks in advance
Morat wrote:
There may have been some titivation along the way ;)
😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣
A clean with a wire brush on a drill/ bench grinder with wire brush ,cleans the bolts up nicely, with the inner arch off it’s a synch to get at the pita bolt.. I struggled with the first head job I did, soon found out that 5 minutes to pull the wheel and arch liner was worth it, lol
If you remove the right hand inner wheel arch you can get at the hidden bolt from the arch, but must be either 1/4 or 3/8 drive, doing that bolt from the top is a pita no matter what type of bolt you use..
I’d be tempted to go and get the key, and grab it back, then haggle the price, there definitely taking the pee, how can you be expected to pay when they’ve f%@#£d it up !
I’d tell them they can expect a bill from the garage that’s going to put there cock up right, I don’t play with diesels, why, because I’m not up on them, I wouldn’t take a car Incase the same thing happened,,
It’s no good pretending you know about something when you don’t, maybe a call to citizens advice might be helpful
I used the power of the car to undo the nut on the gearbox flange when my front prop gave up, I didn’t even think about engine torque to undo, just unplug cps or something, mine starts on flick of key, lol
I’ve only used an air gun lately, but before I had a compressor and gun I did undo the old fashioned way, left the belt on for some friction, put socket on a t-bar and gave a bloody good whack,, brute force and ignorance works every time 😂🤣😂🤣
Tiger seal, if that doesn’t seal it, nothing will
Personally I’ve never had to strip the upright on a seat, as the heater elements don’t fail there, I’m thinking that as it’s blowing the fuse, it must be the pump which I would of thought is under the seat , so should be easy to repair/replace
If you get stuck for a car, you can borrow mine, only thing is, it’s still running on liquid gold, I’ve not had the enthusiasm to find the broken wire on lpg system. ( I’m pretty sure that’s where the problem is )
Shiply . definitely exists, is a site where people bid on jobs, wether it’s movind a bed or a car, one or a thousand miles,, search just using shiply,
https://www.shiply.com/
Now I’ve had the opposite, waited 3 hrs for AA, I’m a blue badge holder so meant to get priority,, ended up doing a bodge and got home, I changed to RAC, they were with me within 1/2 hour, relay afterwards the same,, l think it’s luck of the draw half the time.
I’ve just changed a battery in the car, onlyused 3 amps but it did the job no problem
So in theory, as I’ve got connections for a sub out, and an aux, I could put the cd changer to the aux, and fit a new more powerful sub in the boot.
As I’m not using the nav part of the dsp amp could I swap to the cheaper one ? ( non sat nav dsp )
That way selling mine on pays for most of the upgrades I want 😁
So this is one for the stereo nerds, lol,,
I’m looking at dumping the sub box and dsp amp, fixing some timber to the cover panel for sub
and putting a decent boom boom speaker in with a bigger amp.
I’m going to replace all the speakers throughout the car as well.
The question is, can I run the speakers the old fashioned way directly from the back of the stereo,
or do I still need to run them through the out stations, obviously I’m going to have a lot of fun
Joining up with a supply for the amp etc, I want to keep the cd changer if possible, and still have
control of the volume from the steering wheel, any help is appreciated..
( ps, working dsp amp ( with sat nav ) going up for sale soon )
Not being in the know re air con pipes, could you not get a rubber pipe and slice it and cover the pipes that way ?, would certainly protect them from road crap