ahh now that looks better

recharging the rover with the sun
prefer the view from inside

as you can see not a lot . the chips are set in some sort of gel like jelly no obvious issues on visual inspection , it just doesn't work

morning j

that's interesting to know, now all i have to do is remember it!

you have a real problem their . i personally would not drive it . don't be frightened to pull an auto to bits , its not that difficult their is less in an auto than a manual IMHO . just read rave for instruction, basically remove valve body and open the case, 100% dismantle and clean everything spotless . do not use fluffy rags no lint it gets in the valve body and jams up the valves. it must be spotless on reassembly
ps the plates are fibrous like clutch plates in a motorbike clutch, not grey chunky bits of aluminium and the black stuff is metal
it also may be cost prohibitive to repair , you may need to find a replacement .
pss and your oil is also burnt , so there is something rubbing on something it shouldn't be. sorry it's not what you wanted to hear

two lesbians go to a dietary conference the speaker talks about nutritional foods and states that you are what you eat , one of the lesbians jumps to her feet and said , you calling me a c..... ( a piece of a woman's anatomy)

wife says to hubby
do you know a bull can have sex 3000 times a year
husband to wife
go and ask the bull if it was with the same old cantankerous cow .

are they changing all fuels to e10 type fuels on your side of the rock.
did you ever get to use leaded fuels ?

ok i give up how do you post a bloody photo step by step please.

last resort would be to find some that nearly fit and file them down . very soft and easy to do . i usually rub them down on a piece of emery paper.like sharpening a pencil.

those liner plug clip things are called quick rivets for ordering purposes.

i did read somewhere that you can move the motor forward enough to do the flex plate without removing all together, i have not done this ?

apparently it is legal to eat roadkill in australia now but they don't explain what to do with the pushbike.

a pessimist sees a dark tunnel
an optimist sees a light at the end off the tunnel
a realist sees a freight train
the driver sees 3 idiots standing on the tracks

Morat wrote:

On the P38 you could well be over tightening them, the correct setting is only 80lb/ft
and they are still to tight for a 1/2'' drive socket
when you have been doing this stuff for that long you just know how tight somethings should be?

why the heavy viscosity oil 10w 60? any reason? its not a problem just asking.

i have axle nuts on VW hubs 300 ft lb, i don't own a tension wrench for that i just use an extension bar on the strongarm . you will need a 3/4'' drive at least as i have damaged 2 1/2'' drive ratchets on the axle nuts on the rover. a 4' bar will do the trick IMHO

mostly castrol products . our machine shop told me that there is better oils, as a comment one day , i have handed him 2 cranks to measure up for machining to have him hand them back with the comment , that's a sign of good oil for you.